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Showing results for tags 'Hub'.
Found 8 results
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I stripped a hun on my 1985 BRAT, for the second time! The 36mm castellated nut was at the right torque, with cotter pin. What am I doing wrong?
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hey old gen friends, recently came back to my wagon parked on the street here in New York City and found my driver side corner light smashed, so looking for a replacement. Also been hearing some grinding in the front end on the passenger side. I need to track down a complete front passenger side wheel assembly (bearing, hub, spindle). If anyone has these parts for sale, please let me know, I need the corner light to pass inspection which is coming up soon and from the sound of things, also need to replace the front passenger side wheel assembly ASAP as well. thanks, Glen
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Hi friends, I have had this brat for a few years. Never really knew anything about mechanics before, and I have been learning! I can't find a wheel hub anywhere for my brat. I have been searching to figure out what other subaru vehicles have universal parts with my 82 brat without any luck. The gear on the front wheel hub are totally stripped. I can't find a replacement part anywhere! nothing online no auto parts stores stock it and subaru was not helpful at all. Recently an old brat got into a junk yard but the hubs were pulled before I could get out there! I'm at a total loss. Does anyone know if there are other models/years of subaru that would have a compatible hub? Thanks! -
I have an EA81 hardtop coupe that is fwd, and my front wheels are shot, as well as having bald tires. I have a pair of 5 lug wheels just sitting around, so i was wondering if it was possible to convert the rear to a 5 lug. It has drum brakes in the rear. Plus, I think that it would be pretty sweet.
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Last week, I replaced the CV axles, ball joints, tie rod ends, and struts on my '87 Subaru GL 4WD. For some reason when I apply a lot of (engine) torque when the wheels are turned hard to the left, there's a huge clunk as soon as significant torque is applied. This baffles me, because I've taken it apart to inspect (again) and could find nothing wrong. The CV axles, ball joints, struts, etc., are brand new. The ball joints, strut mounts, hub, axle nuts, brake calipers, sway bar mounts, etc., are tight. I took the wheels off today and re-checked all this stuff. The wheel lug nuts are torqued properly and everything, and I also checked the strut mount screws and the nut that secures the end of the strut into its top mounting plate. The wheel bearings also looked good. They were smooth and tight, and I packed a bunch of grease in there before putting the axles back in. The car makes no weird noises whatsoever when I'm running down the road at 75 mph. It's only when I start a sharp left turn. At this point, I'm standing around scratching my head. Other than the clicking the old axle did (because the outer boot had a rip in it and a bunch of grit got into the CV joint), it didn't make the big CLUNK when I was turning. Anyone have ideas? Thanks! -
Happy Friday folks. I write today regarding two wheel studs that need replacing on my '87 GL Wagon. This wagon has a six-lug hub conversion. One stud is missing and the other... We'll let's just say it's FUBAR'd. I went to CarQuest the other day and could only order the studs on the hub. The whole assembly. I can order studs based on length, shoulder and knurl. 12x1.25. Who here knows knurl diameter, shoulder size and a decent enough length? Thank you guys. -
Hey all I have a 87 gl with stripped hubs that need to be replaced, and I found some on partsgeek.com, but the price is way too much for me. Any other ideas?
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Last June, I wrote up this thread on a dry-run wheel bearing replacement that ultimately ended up being a real wheel bearing replacement. That was for the driver side front wheel bearing on a 1996 Legacy L sedan. Well, on the same day that the car crossed over 200,000 miles on the odometer, it provided a new challenge. It started with an ABS light coming on along with some front end vibration at highway speeds. This didn't seem like that big of a deal until the next morning when the passenger side wheel started to make horrible grinding noises. I decided I should jack up the car and see what was going on.....I had already mentally prepared myself that a wheel bearing replacement was imminent. Both front bearings had been done by a shop that I STILL regret taking it to. The axle nut fell on the ground as I took the wheel cover off the car. Further removal of the knuckle/hub assembly revealed what I already knew was the case......the bearing had been destroyed and the hub was simply banging around inside the knuckle housing. It was so floppy that the brake rotor was grinding on the brake caliper bracket - rotor is toast. The ABS light came on because the tolerance of the ABS tone ring on the hub was so out of whack from the sensor. So off to the junkyard in the morning. The first potential donor car did not have ABS - of course I only noticed that AFTER spending 20 minutes getting the rusted mess off the car. Note in the photo below that the hub does not have the ABS tone ring. The second car (shown below) was the correct match with the added bonus only rust belt operation can provide. Unfortunately after pulling the CV out, I found that this wheel hub was totally destroyed. I did manage to pick up a new-ish brake rotor since that needs replacing anyway. The third car was an older 1994 Legacy wagon. This turned out to have a good knuckle/hub assembly and was the one that came home with me (after two hours of "practicing" removing wheel knuckles from 3 different cars at the junkyard). The donor knuckle/hub assembly has a very different brake dust shield, but the parts are identical between the 94 and the 96. (back to 92 as demonstrated on the driver side bearing change). I drove out the hub from the backside with a socket and a hammer - no slide hammer this time. It cleaned up pretty nicely and I lightly polished the hub shaft. And I used an air chisel to drive the outside inner race from the hub using the same technique as last time. I have a new bearing, but I still need seals from the Subaru dealer. The O'reily's and Carquests around here keep giving the wrong inner seal - the correct seal has a taller lip than they provide. Next up, cleaning up the parts and pressing out the bearing race from the knuckle with the Harbor Freight puller kit #66829.
