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Showing results for tags 'IAC'.
Found 6 results
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Hi there folks! Got CEL codes 42 and 33 pulling on my good old 1993 legacy. In reference to the 33, the speedometer stopped functioning. I have pulled the transmission side of the cable and the tab is present and appears to spin well. Wondering if there is any other troubleshooting I should do before pulling the gauge cluster out of the dash to see if that side still spins. If the cable is not the issue do I need to replace the cluster or is there a way to repair the speedo itself? The salvage yards around me are pretty sparse for the older models. If it is the cable it appears that replacements are no longer avaliable. What would yall advise I do at that point? In reference to code 42 the engine started to idle significantly higher then usual recently. Then started throwing 42. The odd part is when I run the car in test mode (green connectors under the dash attached) it only shows the codes as running codes and not in memory and the car idles perfectly in that mode. I suspect the IAC has gone bad, and I do have a replacement that I can put in there that i know is good. But I wanted to see if there was any specific troubleshooting steps I should take before swapping it out? For reference I installed purchased and installed a rebuild just over 800 miles ago and the car has been running very well up until the last 2 days. It did, however, really struggle to pass colorado emissions standards. Ended up adding an additional cat to get it to pass. At that point the high idle was not present, neither was code 42 or 33 and the speedo was functioning just fine. Please forgive me in advance as I am limited thus far in my knowledge and want to learn more. I love my subarus and I love working on them. I've got a fair bit of knowledge, but I would not consider myself an expert by any means. Thanks in advance for your guidance. -
Idle problems 93 Loyale EA82, 3sp auto 2 wd 4dr sedan Idle too low stalls in cold, when warm runs fine. Idle goes high, 2000rpm? as it warms. Vacuum seem fine, no leaks ( sprayed starter fluid at all vacuum hose joints. Tap into AT vacuum line w/ vacuum gauge, is in green ~ 21", drops to maybe 15 on throttle fast press, goes right back up. to green in few secs. Raise rpm, to 2500 or 3000? Vacuum stays steady after brief dip. Can pull codes if I can identify ODB I black and green plugs, don't seem to be around fuse panel, any suggestions? Thanks for your help, Subaru made such good cars in 80's and 90s, now trying to obsolete them my limiting parts??? Anywhere I can fine new or used TBI or parts to rebuild? -
Hello, The car I recently purchased has 96,000 on it. 2006 Legacy has a small issue that I have noticed. When I am pull up to a traffic light the engine rpm's drop down to the point I think it may want to stall. This is more prevalent when the A/C is on, but it still does it a little less when it is off. I have read that the IAC (Idle Control Valve) sometimes get clogged/restricted a little. Can the EGR also cause this? Thanks for any help -
About two weeks ago my WRX started stalling the engine when I would push in the clutch and shift to neutral as I came to a stop. It seems like as the engine comes up to temperature, it looses its ability to keep the engine at idle. Eventually I have to hold the throttle cracked open at idle to keep it running. If I coast, in gear, up to a stop and disengage the clutch just as engine RPM reaches hot-idle, I can keep it running, no problem. But if I come to a stop quickly and push in the clutch, the engine will immediately stall. There is NO high idle, only a gradual reduction of idle speed as the engine warms up. I haven't done much fiddling lately, besides replacing the MAF and front O2 sensors. I'm also not getting ANY OBD fault codes. Doing some research pointed to the IACV being gummed up. So I cleaned it, per the instructions on NASIOC. My drive to work involves about two miles of surface streets until I get to the freeway onramp, then about 8 miles of highway. There are three stop signs between my house and the freeway and about as many between the freeway offramp and my work. The car started pretty normal the next morning, but each time I stopped at a stop sign the idle would get lower and lower until the engine stalled as I pulled up to the stoplight at the onramp. Same story after driving on the highway, when I pulled up to a stop after exiting, the engine stalled. Some further reading of the IACV-cleaning post on NASIOC revealed that disassembly of the IACV could yield better cleaning results, but often the cleaned valve would fail within the next few months or years. I decided to just bite the bullet and replace the IACV with a new one. Same story. The engine started fine, but with each stop sign between my house and the freeway onramp, the engine would idle lower and lower until it stalled at the onramp. After the IACV, most folks suggest checking for vacuum leaks. I haven't done this yet, but I'm very doubtful that there are any. I haven't taken anything apart recently, save the new sensors, and the car was running perfectly normally up until two weeks ago. I plan to do some data logging tomorrow on my way to and from work, and will post the results here. So, anyone have any ideas? Fuel pump? Fuel pump relay? Bueller? Bueller? Bueller? -
A few weeks ago my 1992 Loyale Automatic started idling funny. It would fluctuate constantly. My mechanic told me that I needed to replace the Idle speed control solenoid. So, my question is: Does there need to be any timing done before it will function correctly? I've put the part in, but now the RPMs jump up, and then drop to zero after a few seconds. -
Hi I have these two codes that I cant seem to figure out, I have replaced the IAC and still come up with the code IAC system fault along with vehicle speed sensor 2!! Dont know if they are related in anyway but help please!!!