Search the Community
Showing results for tags 'Idle'.
-
Hey all. I just got done replacing both O2 sensors on my 05 WRX STI. It was throwing a running rich code, and getting abysmal fuel mileage, hence the sensor replacement. Now after the sensor swap, it hasn't thrown the rich mixture code with a 5 mile test drive. Now however it has a wandering idle. If you disengage the clutch and let it drop to idle, it will either drop so low it actually dies, or it will drop to around 200 RPM before climbing back to 800. It will also occasionally speed up the idle to 1000 RPM. It had this wandering issue before the sensor swap, but it was never bad enough to kill the car and generally wandered up instead of down. I have only had this car a few months and the previous owner tuned it. How is the idle controlled on this car? Is it all ECU controlled? Or is there something I can adjust? Do I just need to give the ECU time figure out it has new sensors? Thanks in advance. -
So, I've recently come into a problem. I've noticed an intermittent whirring/whistling noise coming from the center/center-bottom of the dash. Almost sounds as if there's a cd in a disc-player rotating at a high speed. I don't have a cd-player, and I've also removed the fuse from the radio, and the noise still comes. Anyway, when the noise comes on, it follows the RPMs of the motor. If I depress the accelerator, the noise gets louder. While idling (and noise present), if I press on the brake pedal the lights pretty much completely cut out, and the motor almost dies. In the videos you can hear the noise, and see the idle responses. It frequency of brake-taps is consistent with the motor behavior. ALSO, if I turn on the hazard lights, the idling bobbing/cutting with the lights cutting follows the frequency of the hazards and/or turn signals. When the whirring goes away, the symptoms are gone. Do I all of a sudden have a really bad ground? All lights are functional; nothing out. '98 OBW with 251/25D hybrid Recent work (past 6 months): New OEM MAF New OEM TPS New OEM ignition coil New OEM plugs New OEM wires New OEM 5mt neutral switch New OEM 5mt reverse light switch New Fuel pump relay (symptoms were present before I went playing under the dash) Done in the past two years: fuel pump fuel filter Timing belt New OEM Cam Gears I'm pretty bad at electrical diagnostics, any suggestions/advice would help. Battery has 12.5v just sitting. 12.8v while idling. Thanks for your time folks, Greg -
Hi all, '98 OBW, 2.5L high compression build, 5MT After moving to Las Vegas, Nevada about two years ago, I've finally begun wanting to use my air conditioning system. Before moving down here, I had a mechanic pull vacuum on the system and charge it. I think he put in less than 2 lbs? It was a very minimal amount. Here are the symptoms that I'm experiencing. Blows cold while driving, and cool while idling. While driving, when the A/C compressor kicks on, there is a VERY noticeable decrease in performance... almost like I've instantaneously been loaded with a 700 lb 4x8 U-Haul trailer...It'll buck/shake the car slightly. I know I've read multiple times on the forum that the A/C can rob power, but this seems exceptional. The motor has good compression (in the 200s) and has lots of power when not using A/C. I am in the habit of turning the A/C off when accelerating from stops. With this amount of strain placed on the motor though, why doesn't it just stall out when idling? The motor doesn't stumble or strain when cycling the A/C on/off while idling. What's the deal? I've checked the gap on the clutch, and it seems to be within specifications. It also appears that this clutch isn't replaceable? I've looked at the different write-ups on this forum, and the videos available, but NONE of them show the type of compressor that mine has... The Triangle with the 3 circular pieces and the single bolt in the center... I've attached the pressure gauge from one of those auto-store recharge kits, and supposedly the system is topped-off. Does this have anything to do with my neutral switch? I've checked my Short Term/Long term fuel trims while idling and I think I don't have a vacuum leak, as they're in the negatives. I'm just worried that I'm going to jump timing because of the instantaneous loading that is presenting, or the A/C is going to catabolize itself while driving and having to replace EVERY part of the system. Thanks for your time, Greg
-
Idle problems 93 Loyale EA82, 3sp auto 2 wd 4dr sedan Idle too low stalls in cold, when warm runs fine. Idle goes high, 2000rpm? as it warms. Vacuum seem fine, no leaks ( sprayed starter fluid at all vacuum hose joints. Tap into AT vacuum line w/ vacuum gauge, is in green ~ 21", drops to maybe 15 on throttle fast press, goes right back up. to green in few secs. Raise rpm, to 2500 or 3000? Vacuum stays steady after brief dip. Can pull codes if I can identify ODB I black and green plugs, don't seem to be around fuse panel, any suggestions? Thanks for your help, Subaru made such good cars in 80's and 90s, now trying to obsolete them my limiting parts??? Anywhere I can fine new or used TBI or parts to rebuild? -
Hi all, EJ251 block/EJ25D heads in '98 OBW, 5MT Recent work done in the past year: Plugs (ngk) wires (ngk) Timing belt kit (oem) Timing cam gears (oem) Cleaned and swapped out IACV Swapped out MAF Swapped out TPS New Fuel Pump, Strainer, Filter, Pressure Regulator New OEM Oxygen sensor Compression test cylinders 1-4: 214, 205, 225, 209 (unsure if these numbers are good for a High Compression build, it is consuming some oil. Maybe a half quart to full quart every few months of mostly short trips and some highway) I live in Las Vegas, and the temperatures are now at the usual hot. When city driving during the heat of the day, the engine will idle very low (has approached stalling, entire car shutters/shakes) and will often bob up and down +/- 100 rpm. It seems to be at its worse always when the fuel tank is at or below half-filled. If I use the A/C it helps with the issue because of the idle-up function. I've checked for vacuum leaks with a propane tank, and can't find anything. If I unplug a vacuum line, the engine idles up. Upon startup for the first 5 minutes, the exhaust smells very rich. Should I be looking to test next? The valves are kinda loud, should I do a leak-down test? When I press the accelerator pedal, from 1800 rpm to 2500 rpm, the motor behaves as if it is unbalanced. Anything above 2500, it is smooth and responsive. I am using an air intake from a '96 legacy wagon... is that an issue? Too restrictive? Any help would be appreciated. Greg
-
Hey team, I recently changed my oil and redid wiring for my crank angle sensor my car is performing and idling better than it was before, but it periodically has a rougher idle (more vibrations when idling) - usually, it is remedied by flipping the car into neutral and then back into drive which I find really odd. Once in a while, the idle goes a tad lower but usually, it's around the 700-800 rpm mark which is good. any ideas what could be causing this? maybe a dirty IAC? maybe spark plugs/spark plug wires? I'm at a loss!! Thanks in advance! Edit - My car is a 1991 Subaru liberty/legacy with 161'000km on the clock (100'040 miles) -
I have been trying to fix my idle issue for a very long time. The engine was rebuilt before I bought the car and it's still pretty fresh. Can anyone take a picture of their throttle plate stop screw? I am worried that someone has adjusted mine. I am also wondering if the TPS is set correctly. I messed with the today. Didn't seem to help anything I have checked all the vacuum lines a million times
-
Hi All, My manual 2000 Subaru Legacy has recently started acting up while idling over the past two weeks. It idles at around 900-1000 rpm and intermittently shakes. The shaking has gradually become more frequent over the past weeks and the CEL came on about a week ago. Just today, it occasionally started idling at 2000 rpm and increasing the rpms (accelerating) without me pushing the gas (this was mostly happening while I was moving). My assumptions after some research is that it is either the MAF or MAP sensor. I sprayed down the MAF sensor with MAF spray to no avail. I visually checked for leaks in the hose and sprayed the hoses down with carburetor cleaner to check for hoses and did not see any leaks or hear the engine rev. I just had the CEL codes checked today, and it came up with P0304: cylinder 4 misfire and P0113: intake air temperature sensor 1, circuit high input. Would totally appreciate any help as I'd like to avoid another costly mechanic bill Thanks! -
Video going over issues: http://webm.land/media/8vlo.webm Started having issues a while ago with some fairly extreme shaking and surging while at idle (including cold starts). To try and resolve this I cleaned my throttle air intake, and got a new air filter. After cleaning the throttle air intake the engine ran what seemed to be perfectly normal for a day with none of the previous issues. I then replaced the air filter and had some issues return (though still improved from before). Cleaned the Mass Air Flow Sensor trying to fix as well (no difference), and tried an idle relearn. Have visually checked for broken tubes and everything for a vacuum leak and didn't see anything. Starting cool the rpms go to about 1500 and it feels pretty stable. Switching gear drops the rpms to around 900-1100 and makes it pretty rough even if it goes back to park. Turning off AC/lights anything makes it feel smoother. Starting warm I get the same thing that happened before I cleaned the throttle (before I cleaned it this happened cool as well IIRC). On park it surges from 500-1000 consistently and surges but less so on drive/reverse. While driving it seems pretty stable and doesn't shake too bad except when stopping. However if I turn off and try to turn my car back on it sometimes fails to do so (starts after waiting 5 minutes or so though) (see failure video for example of this https://webmshare.com/rN9E4 ). For idle relearn I followed this http://www.subaruforester.org/vbulletin/f113/how-idle-re-learn-after-battery-disconnect-154161/ For the first 10 minutes of idleing it started at 1500 and slowly went down to around 700. (shaking more as it got around 700 but less around 1000) Second period of idleing was all around 700 shaking badly. Tried started car again right after and the car failed to start (was a hotter day) https://webmshare.com/rN9E4 The car did work well for a day period (90% sure of this) after cleaning the Throttle Intake so I'm pretty confused. Before cleaning the Throttle it shook really bad usually right when starting, but if not after driving for 30 seconds, worse then driving after 10 minutes as it is now. So that atleast helped somewhat. Any ideas of things I can check/try out? Have seen some stuff about the O2 sensor or cleaning the IACV but not really sure at this point. Any help would be most appreciated! -
Hey everyone. 1996 Legacy Wagon L 260k 2000 EJ 251 with EJ25D heads 2000 4.11 5mt I'm having some problems that I'm not sure where to turn to. I have an idling issue. When at operating temperatures, my idle will be low (around 500) but not rough. When the lights are on, and I depress the brake, the lights will dim and the idle will drop and stumble. Never shut off. This problem has been present with two separate motors. First with an EJ25/EJ22 frankenmotor, and now my current one. I have swapped out my alternator (both read 14v), removed the crappily-installed uhaul trailer package, and created new grounds/cleaned up grounds in the engine bay. No change. I had the battery checked at the auto store, and it is said to be good. I've also cleaned the terminals/cables. I have suspicions that I'd like to see if they are valid/relevant. IIRC, this problem surfaced a couple years ago after I had replaced the then dead fuel pump. I did not replace it with an OEM pump. This one came from the local auto store. Around this time as well, the aftermarket radio quick working. The cd player works, and I can also use the auxiliary port, but no radio. I didn't listen to the radio at the time, so I never bothered. All fuses are good. Could either of these be related? Or, since this only happens when the engine is warm, could it be the coolant temp sensor? I believe I transferred the Crank/Cam/ Temp sensors from the last motor... Sometimes after a long drive on a warmer day, at idle it will sometimes idle up and down for a short period of time then normalize. Computer related? Thank you for your time. Any advice will be appreciated. Greg
-
Hey everyone, Recently, I got back from a holiday and had my 89'GL sitting there for a month. It got driven a couple of times, but was dead when I got home. I replaced the spark plugs and she was up and running. Ever since though, it's ran like crap. Shakes with a very low idle, back fires when changing gears/de-accelerating and has bad fuel economy. I came to think it could just be time for a timing service. I have all the gear, new water pump (while I'm down there), timing light, compression kit etc and know how to test each thing. However, I'm just confused as to what order each part should be tested in? Disty, Ignition, Belt, Carbu idle speed? Cheers all! Hayden
-
Hi all/anyone Im brand new to subaru, i have a very well looked after 55 plate forester. had the timing belt done today and a blowing exhaust patched. the car now sounds like a tornado jet with a harley up its back end. its faster. and more responsive but the idle is shocking. the car visibly shakes. i put my phone on the car roof to show the motion as my phone rattled on the roof. the mechanic ive known for ten years said all timing is bang on and it might settle...hmmm. or to reset the ecu by disconnecting the battery. it is very bad at idle , the shaking is ridiculous. any thoughts on what i should or could do? thanks ryan -
Hey gang, So my '89 DL wagon has recently begun idling very low. It's a new issue, which as far as I can tell began after taking her for a bit of muddy time. However, unfortunately, I cannot be certain about that, as I only noticed the low idle a few days after. I don't know how many RPM she's idling at as there's no tacho, but it's low enough to be rather rough, and also the engine has cut out several times during driving. You know, pulling up to the lights, put the clutch in, engine goes back to idle, oh no! idles down too low, stalls. Bye bye power steering, bye bye assisted brakes. It's a little concerning for me, particularly as one of the first times she carked it like this was going around a roundabout! Anyway, I think I need the to find the Idle adjuster screw. I've had quite the trawl to see if I can find a resource that'll help me positively identify it, but no such luck so far. I'm posting here as this morning I found out that the screw I'd been playing with thinking it was the idle adjust was, in fact, the throttle stop screw. Oops! Can someone please post some pictures, to help me find this little guy? '89 DL, Hitachi carb, Australian edition! Thanks in advance team!
-
Vehicle is a 2002 Subaru Legacy Wagon 2.5 SOHC 5 speed. 220,000 miles. Problem would only occur after 30+ minutes of driving on a hot day, as of last week. Now it occurs as soon as engine is warmed up. Plugs, wires, fuel filter, and a million other things have all been replaced in the past couple thousand miles. Once the car warms up, I'm getting a terribly low idle and hesitation/jolting so bad it isn't even road worthy. It's so bad that I can barely get it into 1st gear sometimes. The car won't cut out, but seems pretty close to it most of the time. At idle, it revs up just fine. Could this be a TPS issue? Injectors? Fuel pressure? I don't see why it would only do this once fully warmed, it runs fine (seems a little slower than usual) until it warms up. There is no check engine light. In the past, it threw a code for IAC valve, but it went away once I cleaned it. Thanks guys. -
I am so tired of dealing with my car's idle problem. If I can get it fixed once and for all, I'll be the happiest man alive. Now my car has developed a new idle issue. I still have my other idle issue, where I have to rev it to keep it from stalling. However, this issue has started appearing more and more often over the past few weeks. Basically what happens is the idle goes up, cuts out, goes up, cuts out, goes up, cuts out, etc. Much like "cyclic idles" that you see on tuned cars. It does then when it's supposed to be idling (obviously). If it's idling and the car is moving (like if I'm coasting in neutral to a stop sign), it'll do this cyclic idle. However, once I come to a stop, the idle will return to normal. Very recently, it is now doing it all the time though. Here's a video of what's happening: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6xBu3RJIZrk&feature=youtu.be It's like it's trying to rev up to a kinda high idle, but then it get cut off. I don't really know how to explain it. The only CEL code I have is for "air control valve or circuit". I have replaced and cleaned the IACV twice now using junkyard units. Whatever I've done has made absolutely no difference. I've thought about replacing the wiring harness that goes to the IACV, but my testing says I might not need to. I've got power going to the IACV plug and resistances are within tolerances. The only thing I haven't tested is the ECU. Again, my previous idle issue is still there. It kinda feels like if there's water in the intake or something, since I've driven into deep mud before. However, I have sprayed every little and big vacuum hose in the engine bay with carb cleaner and haven't noticed any leaks. Sprayed the intake manifold gaskets, TBI, intake, PCV, and I didn't notice anything. My car has an exhaust leak and a misfire when idling, although it drives fine. Also, I have replaced my CTS twice. Currently have a brand new one in there, and it reads correct resistance at all temperatures. 1990 Subaru Loyale, EA82 N/A So, I'd like some help with this. I'm hoping that this new issue could be a possible fix for my other idle issue. My other idle issue seems to be OAT related: when it's warm outside, it'll idle fine. When it's cold outside, it won't want to idle and I have to rev it to keep it from dying. Has nothing to do with engine temperature; just outside air temperature. Any ideas? I can't stand this idle issue. My main issue is just plain dangerous, and this cyclic idle is annoying (and embarrassing, really).
-
About two weeks ago my WRX started stalling the engine when I would push in the clutch and shift to neutral as I came to a stop. It seems like as the engine comes up to temperature, it looses its ability to keep the engine at idle. Eventually I have to hold the throttle cracked open at idle to keep it running. If I coast, in gear, up to a stop and disengage the clutch just as engine RPM reaches hot-idle, I can keep it running, no problem. But if I come to a stop quickly and push in the clutch, the engine will immediately stall. There is NO high idle, only a gradual reduction of idle speed as the engine warms up. I haven't done much fiddling lately, besides replacing the MAF and front O2 sensors. I'm also not getting ANY OBD fault codes. Doing some research pointed to the IACV being gummed up. So I cleaned it, per the instructions on NASIOC. My drive to work involves about two miles of surface streets until I get to the freeway onramp, then about 8 miles of highway. There are three stop signs between my house and the freeway and about as many between the freeway offramp and my work. The car started pretty normal the next morning, but each time I stopped at a stop sign the idle would get lower and lower until the engine stalled as I pulled up to the stoplight at the onramp. Same story after driving on the highway, when I pulled up to a stop after exiting, the engine stalled. Some further reading of the IACV-cleaning post on NASIOC revealed that disassembly of the IACV could yield better cleaning results, but often the cleaned valve would fail within the next few months or years. I decided to just bite the bullet and replace the IACV with a new one. Same story. The engine started fine, but with each stop sign between my house and the freeway onramp, the engine would idle lower and lower until it stalled at the onramp. After the IACV, most folks suggest checking for vacuum leaks. I haven't done this yet, but I'm very doubtful that there are any. I haven't taken anything apart recently, save the new sensors, and the car was running perfectly normally up until two weeks ago. I plan to do some data logging tomorrow on my way to and from work, and will post the results here. So, anyone have any ideas? Fuel pump? Fuel pump relay? Bueller? Bueller? Bueller? -
its been a very long time since I've really worked on a Subaru so I'm hoping someone could assist me with the old school brat. the issue is , it will crank up fine when cold, then it'll warm up & raise the idle, then you hit the accelerator and kick the choke off and it idles good, for awhile! after it's warmed up it sometimes will idle and sometimes it wont? It's strange !! I have it set to idle at 1000 or so rpms sometimes it'll idle for awhile then it starts to choke down to idle at like 600 rpms and then it dies....I thought it was the idle stop solenoid, so I took out the needle inside, to no avail, it still would idle erratic or not at all. I know it's getting plenty of fuel, I've changed both filters and also tested fuel pump and getting plenty of volume to carburetor. SO can someone please advise what the issue may be ?? I'm kinda at a lose now?? anything else i can test or check for ?.. Oh yea.. don't think its a vacuum leak, I've sprayed brake cleaner and cant really tell a difference in the rpms
-
Hey Subie forum members, thankfully it has been a long time since I've needed your help, however this is serious. I took my car in for a smog check (in CA) two days ago, no she will not run. Need help. Full sequence of events below. 2 days prior to smog check: attempted to pass with aftermarket intake on car which did not pass component check but emissions were beautiful, 10-15% of allowed limits. Removed aftermarket intake and replaced with stock dual filter setup and all PCV hoses routed accordingly, didn't remember to disconnect battery to reset ECM. Drove for two days, minus a few HP, with no CEL or performance issues. I have a A/F ratio gauge in the center of dash (removed dash compartment) which showed typical readouts with needle bobbing in optimal range during cruising throttle positions, rich when I stepped on it and lean if i cut throttle until idle stable then bobbed optimal again. Smog Check: take it into local full service shop (reputable both by report of others and historically as they have aligned many of my cars and done exhaust work). it took about twice as long as usual but I believe they ran it twice just to make sure of the result. It failed emissions as gross polluter with excess hydrocarbon (unburned fuel) at idle only, 2500rpm test was still clean as a whistle. I get back in my car and fire it up and let it idle and low and behold the A/F gauge is nearly pinned rich. Nearly pinned as in way higher than I can get it to go by stomping the throttle under full load up a steep hill. But no CEL. I plugged in my code reader and cleared the DTCs just as a precaution, checked live data for any clear signs of sensor failure but all looked good. I opened intake and checked to make sure no obstruction was lodged in the intake, checked MAF connections, checked PCV system, checked intake for leaks, checked injectors for leaks- all were clear. I pulled out the primary filter without resetting the ECM to attempt to trick it into leaning out a little, took it for a test drive with no luck. Pulled the secondary filter right near the throttle body and it wouldn't run. Reinstalled the secondary filter and it ran but still rich at idle like before. Cleaned MAF with MAF cleaner, let dry 5 min, reinstalled. CURRENT BEHAVIOR: Now car will not idle, can start it fires up to 1500 for about 2 sec then stalls out like but i can keep it going by pummping the gas and rev it up to 3-4k rpm, then if I hold the throttle at that position it will hold for roughly 5-10 seconds then drop off to stall unless I pump it back up, and repeat the dropoff to stall in 5-10 seconds. Thought I may have fried the MAF by not letting it dry, replaced, reset ECM, same status as above. My first thought is- WTF did these guys do to my car?! What are the next steps I should take? Check fuel pressure? (where is the valve?) Electronics? Any help is appreciated. Thanks -
Guys! there's so much info on here about this notorious tod. but i guess i'm curious because the videos i've seen to listen to the sound are all very persistent with a steady tick. i'm reading up on it because... well, i have it. i've had it for a few k's now. it is getting louder. it stops abruptly, then fades in. and sometimes, it doesn't happen at all, but does usually more and more so now. doesn't tick on the highway. the idle jumps up from 700 to 1200 and back down to 700 over and over. not always. it used to always, but i found a small hose disconnected from the charcoal filter with a mosquito clogging the end of it. removed the mosquito, replugged the hose, and the idle returned to normal. that was about 9k ago. now, it's doing it again, but the hose is still connected. i'm a little baffled. do these sound like TOD symptoms? i've read it might be a small exhaust leak? oh yes, also, it makes a delicate rattling sound from under the hood whenever i'm using lots of gas. for example: climbing a hill at a low rpm. as an after thought, my mechanic told me that this particular tick might not be the tick of death and could be something internal with the engine, in which case, paying to fix the TOD would render futile. although, he did not hear the tick, it's only been described to him as i have to you. i recently replaced the oil i use synthetic 10w-30 and used a little seafoam to see if it might help clean things up. but to no avail. anyways, i'd really appreciate some advice before i fork over the $500 to get the oil pump replaced. thanks dudes!
-
I have a '99 Outback with about 186k that I bought for the kids. My daughter complained about it running rougher than usual at idle. I picked it up from her school and she was right! It tripped P0301 and P0303 codes (misfire on 1 & 3). I was able to limp home with it. Here's what I have done so far: 1. Changed plugs and wires 2. Changed Coil and Air Cleaner After doing this, I tried the car. It kept stalling (see detailed description below). I was able (barely by giving it lots of gas) to get it the 20 feet into my garage so I could work on it out of the rain, but that's about it). 3. Changed timing belt, hydraulic tensioner and all idlers (see below, they were past their expiration date) 4. Changed water pump (well, I figured since I was in there anyway...) 5. Changed upper and lower radiator hoses and thermostat (again, since I was there..) 6. Changed alternator/PS belt and AC compressor belt, as well as idler on the AC belt tensioner (after all, my kids are driving it...) So, here's where the story gets interesting. When I opened the timing belt cover, I found a rubber-covered metal ring floating around in the sprockets. It ends up it is the ball-bearing cover on the idler wheel that has the teeth (don't know the technical term for this). So, clearly that idler was fubar and it's a fair assumption that this foreign body probably caused the timing belt to skip, resulting in the misfires. I put the car together and started it up. It started right away, sounded smooth, revved up to about 1500 RPM, and then died. Thinking that maybe the computer needed to relearn the idle, I disconnected the battery for a minute or so and then turned the ignition on for a minute or so, and then started it up. Some thing. No CEL and no codes came up, but it just doesn't run. If I give the car lots of gas, I can keep it running, but it tries to die every few seconds and I need to pump the throttle to keep it running. Don't think that I can move it like this, since every time I try to shift it into gear, it will stall. Suggestions are welcome! Thank you. -
So the other day my brat started idling super slow on me, like it was going to sleep on me. Sometimes it would idle slowly enough that it would quit. Before this started happening I had adjusted the idle speed so that it idled at a little below 1000 RPMs, but now it was idling around 200-300.. It's not overheating, but when it happened the engine was at normal operating temperature. I checked the oil and that is fine. I checked all the wires on the spark plugs and they were snug. I simply adjusted the idle speed screw so that it was back up to around 1000 RPMs, and it runs normally now, but at first (right after I adjusted it) the engine was hiccuping, or lapsing rather. What could be wrong with it? I fear that by simply adjusting the idle speed screw I'm only treating the symptom and not the cause of the problem.
-
I purchased the car used about 6 months ago and had $2,500 worth of work done on it to get it through inspection. It seemed fine after that other than the shaking issue, but a few months later I also began to have acceleration issues. I had an oil change done in October at which time I also paid $50 for a diagnostic test and was told that I needed a new battery. But other than that I was not told that there is anything wrong with the car. I assume that the mechanic probably thought that my issues were linked to needing a new battery, and I honestly thought the same. However I basically continue to have the same issues even with a new battery. That being said, does anyone have any idea why the car may be shaking while idling, for instance while stopped at a traffic light, or why it may have trouble accelerating, and/or should I even bother to have it diagnosed again? Note that the car does have about 177,000 miles on it. If any more information is needed let me know. -
hey everyone! just having an issue with my 94 loyale. I recently replaced the distributor cap and I will be installing new spark plugs and wires, however when driving, my car will have a very unsteady idle or even drop so low that it will die altogether. i have to feather the gas just to keep it running while its on the road and if i dont it will stall out and ill have to start it up again. I have sprayed around the lines for vacuum leaks and i have done research on wether its the fuel injector or maybe one of the sensors or the solenoid is stuck open. i am not sure where to go from here. I have a chiltons repair manual and have looked over what it could be, I would just like a bit more input and direction and hopes its not a big endeavor in both cost and time. thanks! -
So every once in a while my rig will start to get a sort of "pulsing" idle. It isn't fatal but it obviously isn't right, it will hang around 1k rpm, just above and just below. It almost sounds like a heartbeat if that was possible. Looking for suggestions to what it is! Thanks. -
I have an 03 Outback 2.5 A/T w appx. 184k miles. Trans has been replaced and the previous owner took good care of and maintained the vehicle well. The past several months I have had starting/idling/stalling issues. This general is worse when the vehicle is cold. It is hard to start without giving the accelerator a little help it most of the time will not start and keep running. It will stall if the idle is not kept up but when it does it runs fine. Sometimes it will idle and or start on its own without help, but that is generally only when it is warm, however can periodically do so on a cold start. When it stalls out, often the "AT Oil Temp" light flashes. The car is not throwing any codes. When these issues first started the symptoms where worse and the idle on a few occasions started to run high on its own, yes while driving which was quite dangerous! A few weeks back I ran some Seafoam into the intake into two different areas as per the bottles instructions to try to ensure that all cylinders where feed properly with the remains in the fuel tank. I also cleaned the throttle body out the best I could (air filter good, pcv valve iffy.) I did not get the standard heavy white smoke on start up that I normally do on other vehicles leading me to question whether the process took properly. I had a mechanic tell me to reset the computers values by disconnecting the negative lead & touching it to the positive side and leave set for 15 minutes or so. All of this seemed to do the trick. However, it started again and I brough it to my mechanic. The only thing they could find was a reported vacuum leak next to the intake. That certainly could do it and assumed that when I reassembled the air cleaner, I must have not made a proper connection and was gald that was the problem. It was not. THe car is still doing the same thing. I am going to try and replace the fuel filter and pcv valve next but if that doesn't do it, I am stuck! Suggestions!?! Btw: The TPS switch was tested and all that seems to be good. Please HELP!?!
