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Showing results for tags 'LEgacy'.
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Hi there folks! Got CEL codes 42 and 33 pulling on my good old 1993 legacy. In reference to the 33, the speedometer stopped functioning. I have pulled the transmission side of the cable and the tab is present and appears to spin well. Wondering if there is any other troubleshooting I should do before pulling the gauge cluster out of the dash to see if that side still spins. If the cable is not the issue do I need to replace the cluster or is there a way to repair the speedo itself? The salvage yards around me are pretty sparse for the older models. If it is the cable it appears that replacements are no longer avaliable. What would yall advise I do at that point? In reference to code 42 the engine started to idle significantly higher then usual recently. Then started throwing 42. The odd part is when I run the car in test mode (green connectors under the dash attached) it only shows the codes as running codes and not in memory and the car idles perfectly in that mode. I suspect the IAC has gone bad, and I do have a replacement that I can put in there that i know is good. But I wanted to see if there was any specific troubleshooting steps I should take before swapping it out? For reference I installed purchased and installed a rebuild just over 800 miles ago and the car has been running very well up until the last 2 days. It did, however, really struggle to pass colorado emissions standards. Ended up adding an additional cat to get it to pass. At that point the high idle was not present, neither was code 42 or 33 and the speedo was functioning just fine. Please forgive me in advance as I am limited thus far in my knowledge and want to learn more. I love my subarus and I love working on them. I've got a fair bit of knowledge, but I would not consider myself an expert by any means. Thanks in advance for your guidance. -
Can someone please tell me which knuckle will interchange with my legacy outback wagon I have a 2000 legacy wagon but they don't look the same or at least the brakes and stuff are different. Also the 2000 is non abs and the 99 lobw has abs. -
Hey all, longtime reader here. I’ve gotta tons of great information from you guys in the past 10 years of owning subarus, so thanks in advance. Ok, hoping I can get some ideas on this problem that’s been driving me crazy. 1999 outback leggy, 2.5 dohc, 5-speed, 215k miles. Had a cyl4 missfire code that went away with new plugs and wires, but it comes and goes still, Although I don’t think that’s related to the issue I’m having. Car started randomly cutting out while highway driving, throttle did nothing for a few seconds like it was cutting spark or fuel completely.. But would come right back online after pumping to the floor a couple times. Cold starting it will start and idle but sometimes dies after 5-10 minutes, then starts right back up and idles. Car runs perfect when that’s not happening. I’ve driven it probably 200+ miles with this problem but it’s been getting more frequent. Sometimes it will completely cut out and not come back, then I turn the key off then it starts right back up and runs but cuts in and out frequently at any speed. yes the battery terminals are clean and have good connections, grounds as well. Things I’ve done/tried: New plugs, new wires, new ignition coil, fuel filter, fuel pump. Tried new cam and crank position sensors, Looks like all the connections are good on the harness. I unplugged the MAF and drove it around and the same symptoms came up. Any ideas on what I should look for/try next? -
Hello all, I am new to the Subaru cars and wanted to ask about their common problems. I am looking at buying 05 Subaru Legacy GT. What should I look at when buying one? What are common problems? How reliable are they? If I would be thinking of making more power, what weak points to look at? Any tips for owning this model? -
Have a 97 legacy with a 3.90 final drive, need a new tranny. Have the option of getting a 97 Impreza transmission. The question here is, both have 3.90 final drive. All the gears are a bit shorter ,The one Impreza has a 3.333 fifth gear, while mine has a 3.416. The difference being the 1.8l Impreza vs. the 2.2l Impreza had different transmissions. The 1.8l has all the same ratios as my legacy, the 2.2l has shorter gears. What if any difference would it make putting that transmission in my legacy.
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Have a 97 legacy with a 3.90 final drive, need a new tranny. Have the option of getting a 97 Impreza transmission. The question here is, both have 3.90 final drive. All the gears are a bit shorter ,The one Impreza has a 3.333 fifth gear, while mine has a 3.416. The difference being the 1.8l Impreza vs. the 2.2l Impreza had different transmissions. The 1.8l has all the same ratios as my legacy, the 2.2l has shorter gears. What if any difference would it make putting that transmission in my legacy.
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Hello all, I am relatively new to the world of cars and I am in the market for a new one. There is a very nice 2000 Subaru Legacy B4 for sale and I am interested in it. My main question was is there anything I should particularly look for that normally goes wrong with this year/model of Subaru. I am an Automotive Service Technician Student in my first year so I will have plenty of time to work on it my self and do most repairs my self as I make my way through my course. it has 160k km on it and is priced at 4,400 CAD. Any help is greatly appreciated! Thank you!
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Hello- I've added 2" spacers (with offset) to the stock struts on my 2001 Legacy wagon. The front sway bar end links are now dragging on the rims when making a turn. Below picture is passenger side, driver side is similar. Anyone else had this problem? How did you resolve it? Thanks in advance.
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I have a 2" lift spacer that I am trying to install on the front strut of my 2001 Legacy wagon 5-speed to increase ground clearance. The sway bar was disconnected for this procedure. The bottom bolt which connects the strut to the hub will go in, however I am unable to pivot the hub in enough for the upper bolt to line up. The most force I've applied was with a c-clamp when the strut spacer was installed and the lower bolt that connects the strut to the hub was in place. However the upper bolt does not line up. The c-clamp was to squeeze the hub and back of the strut to theoretically squeeze the holes into alignment. The clamp fit nice, but the hole seemed as if it would not align before the strut cylinder bent from the clamp pressure: so I stopped. Note that as the clamp was being tightened, the axle was being pulled (not compressed) by the hub as it pivoted on the lower strut bolt. Has anyone else had this problem? How was it resolved? Thanks in advance.
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Is there a difference in front CV axle shaft length between Outbacks and Legacies for the North American 2000-2004 body style? Thanks in advance.
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I’m noticing that after I drive on a highway for a while then come to a stop this interesting light patter comes on. The “brake” and “at oil temp” light are flashing. The the middlE light is solid. what is interesting is that the car seems to be fine otherwise. After I turn it off for a while they won’t come back on. And this doesn’t happen every time I drive it. anyone had this happen? My best guess is that a sensor somewhere may be bad.
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Hello Everyone, im currently in a pickle, and in need of assistance. Long story short i placed a 2002 JDM EZ30D into my 1997 2.2L Impreza coupe. along with the entire 2003 outback L.L. bean Bulk head with front wire harnesses. Body Brighton Coupe Engine Ebay 36k JDM EZ30D Wires from 2003 LL BEAN Edition Drivetrain 2005 4.44 WRX 5 spd Transmission/Dif I have communication with the ECU Fuel pump loud n proud. primes as needed new battery starter alternator fuses relays etc. no joke 1 Check engine light MAF. its not installed so I can reach the wires under it. NOT THEE ISSUE. ignition Switch is from the Impreza and not the outback matching the engine Neutral safety switch bypassed 0 volts 5 volts thing done. Automatic gear selection circuit completed. car should think its in neutral. I want to turn the key and start the car... I know I can bump start it. I don't want to. the nice land lord lady saw me drive it in...has to see me drive it out wink wink. in a pickle Everything is working as intended upon the moment of turning the ignition on 1 turn unlock 2 turns speedometer gauge/ecu /fuel pump etc. turn on. 3rd turn-> to ON, every relay clicks starter weakly clicks then Silence. no rumbling T.T Not siezed has compression. Shut up =) Every Electrical ground has been gone thru OCD cleaned repeatedly checked, yep tight n clean. If I left something out. please notice it and ill explain further. Its done as cleanly as it could be done using all OEM parts. OCD OCD OCD SMS, Save My Subaru I Beg you. any info you can give me will be greatly appreciated. -
Hello all, recently my auto transmission took a turn for the worst in my 01 legacy but I had a manual from a 98 2.5rs sitting from a old build and it bolted right. But the speed sensor doesn’t. The 01 has an electronic but the transmission was the ol cable driven. Any ideas how to convert the cable to the mechanical without breaking the bank? I’ve looked at cable converters but they’re all for a mechanical cluster. I have a mechanical gauge but no sensor for manual. Any help would be greatly appreciated. thank you Koda -
Hello fellow Subaru enthusiasts! I have been experiencing automatic transmission problems for many years and the time has finally come that I can avoid fixing it any longer. Since I acquired the car in 2011 there has been a intermittent problem with the duty-C selenoid, the transmission has been binding up around corners for a long time, but the car was given to me for free so I never took the time to replace the duty-C. I do not drive the car very far so I have gotten away with this for some time now. When I do drive the car over 15 miles, the transmission heats up and starts to whine under load. After about 30 minutes of driving the scratching/grinding noise between gears is awful, its so loud I feel bad driving it. I have done 3 transmission flushes over the last 6 years, the first flush was because my transmission cooler line broke while driving 60 mph uphill and dumped all my fluid. While refilling the transmission fluid I accidentally over filled it, and drove it like that for at least 2 years. This summer I start a new job that is about 110 miles away and I know my car won't make it, not even once. I need to replace the transmission, one with less miles that does not have quite the abuse on it. I plan to remove a transmission from a matching year legacy when one appears in the junkyard and swap that. Once I find a replacement transmission I plan to bring it to a shop and have them test it before I go through the trouble of swapping it out, but I am wondering if anyone has done a project like this before? If so, were there any unexpected issues that came up? What gaskets should I purchase before so I can change them all before I install it? Is there an item number for a kit with all the gaskets? Even better, does anyone have a link to a similar situation that someone has already posted? Thanks for the help everyone! 1993 Legacy L, 4-EAT 287,452 miles -Mike -
I've been replacing the timing belt and pulleys in my 1999 Legacy Lancaster (a Japanese import similar to an Outback) with a kit from Amazon, I noticed that the rusty looking "guide" just left of the top cam on the right side (looking at the engine from mechanic perspective) was actually a small pulley with a destroyed ball bearing inside it. None of the belt kits I looked at, and I looked at many, included this pulley. All of the DOHC kits I saw included only the 2 smooth pulleys, the toothed pulley, and the hydraulic tensioner with its pulley. Can anyone please enlighten me why this would be? And where can I get the missing 5th pulley? Thanks.
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My partner was driving her Legacy down the freeway. She got pissed off by another driver and romped up to 100mph (I already yelled at her for doing this). She said that suddenly the car starting getting jerky and slowing down. She kept trying to accelerate and said that her RPMs read 4000-5000, but she coasted to a stop off the exit. The engine didn’t stop until she shut it off to try to start again, but it wouldn’t turn over and her lights dimmed and died. I tried to jump her, it would crank then not start. I took the battery and alternator to get tested, the alternator was fine, the battery was completely shot. New battery and the car will crank, maybe catch for a second or two if I romp on the gas, but not fully start. I can hear the fuel pump when I turn the key to the “ON” position and can hear it whenever I press the gas pedal. When cranking I can hear a godawful metal-on-metal chirp coming from somewhere in the engine block. I checked the timing belt. All four visible pulleys are aligned, I haven’t checked under the main cam-shaft pulley yet. I’m really at my wits end, the little metal shriek/chirp seems to be at a semi-regular interval. I don’t know why the transmission would decouple from the engine midrun, and how that would keep the engine from starting. I hooked up a reader for fault codes... unfortunately it is showing nothing since the battery was dead and I can’t get it running long enough to throw a code. -
My Wife wanted another car to keep as Backup, since the Series of Unfortunate Events that we faced with our Beloved Subaru "BumbleBeast" after the 7.3 degree Earthquake. I have another car, but my '69 coupé is at my parents' home, far away... I believe is a Good Idea to have a Backup Car, so if I need to Fix something on my "BumbleBeast" Subaru, there will be another car available to use, also She want to drive her own car sometimes ... ... So, we Found a LADM (Latin American Domestic Market) Specs Subaru Legacy Wagon... (1990) ...we have not seeing it yet, but by Phone we talked to the owner and he said it was owned by the Local Subaru Dealer's CEO, it is a Sporty Wagon in Dark Golden Champagne Colour with Luxury Rims, also they said that it was a Special Request for the Dealer's CEO to be "Sporty" and has some Upgrades, which they didn't explain Yet ... ... Little is Known about that Subie so Far, and we Expect to Meet the Sellers by the next Saturday, I Will Take Photos of that Subie (if they Allow me to do So) and I'll Post 'em Here. But while we meet, I Kindly Ask you for any Advice about that Model, any Idea, anything that might be a Must Check... any advice is Very Welcome! Kind Regards. -
Hello all! Got a 1997 Legacy L 2.2L. Got it on a good deal for about $200 and a few cases of beer. It has 179,500ish miles on it. Air blows at feet and through the defrost vents. Pushing buttons to change air flow don't do anything. I don't think it's the button cluster,(idk what it's called) I think it's the actuator. I've pulled the cluster and cleaned it, lights came back on for a bit but didn't stay on. Managed to test the brown connector connecting to the actuator (almost impossible) with a volt meter and it seemed pushing the buttons to change the directions of air flow did cause different parts to go hot. So with that out of the way. Do I have to tear apart the whole dash to replace the actuator? And going to a junkyard to get the parts, what range of models/ years are compatible? -
I've got a 91 subaru Liberty LX, it has 290,000 km on it (about 180k miles) and hasn't missed a beat since I got it about 6 years ago at 220,000km. Until this past weekend of course... I was reversing out of our driveway, and just as I was about to go out onto the road, I head a clunk and it stopped moving, the engine was still running. I heard a quiet tapping sound for a few minutes before it went away. Now it idles fine like it did before with no strange sounds, but when I put it into gear, nothing happens. doesn't matter if it's 1st, 2nd, 3rd, 4th, 5th or reverse. It won't move, it doesn't make any noises shift still feel great, clutch feels fine. What makes me the most nervous is that I can shift into gear while the engine is on without the clutch so I don't think the engine is spinning the gearbox. But if the driveshaft is broken, wouldn't it make noise? I've checked the CV joints in case one broke and that's why it won't go but they are solid. I have picked up a 1990 Nissan Pulsar so I can take my time getting the subaru back on the road and do everything right. Any help is greatly appreciated. -
Once again, thank you for being here. Henceforth, I will be asking questions, perhaps putting my 2¢ in now and again, instead of pouring over tons of threads that may or may not suit my particular needs. A Wealth of gl wagon parts here btw.
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I have a 2001 Subaru Legacy L Wagon with an infuriating battery issue. I'm sure more people will immediately say search the board there are lots of other topics relating to this but rest assured I have spent the day searching the board, as well as Google, reading and trying everything I'm able to. However, if I've missed something please feel free to post the link. Here's the background: purchased in the spring of this year with no problems. Since it started to get cold the last couple weeks it has had trouble starting and finally would not start. A couple of times I had gotten it started by shifting into neutral but this may have been a coincidence as it doesn't work anymore and doesn't jive with everything since then. Lights, dash, etc would turn on and were bright but no crank, no start, no click, no nothing. Had the battery tested and it was dead. After a charge it had 10% health and was quickly losing its charge. Bought a brand new battery and the car started instantly and worked great. Within two days I was in the same situation: lights bright but no start. Got the new battery checked and the health was 100% and held a charge. Car started great. Battery died again within two days. Obviously something is draining the battery. When the car is off the drain on the battery is only 0.02 amps, so well within the good range from what I understand. The alternator is kicking out nearly 15v when the car is started and the battery was near 13v when the car was off, following a full charge to the battery. I used the diode check function on my multimetre to check the indirectly test the diodes on the alternator. Long shot I know but I'm grasping at straws. With the main wire to the alternator disconnected, touched my one probe to the bolt where the wire connects and the other touching the casing. In one direction I got an infinite reading and the one direction I got 0.455. I repeated this a few times and got the some readings. I scratched into the metal for both to get a good reading. I'm not sure what the diodes in the alternator are rated for but I thought the readings might be low and if one or more are damaged they could possibly be draining the battery when the car is off even if the alternator is charging while the car is running. I'm read but at wit's end trying to figuire out what is draining the battery. Any help would be great! -
Greetings, I am a broke highschool student who is looking to mod my 1990 Legacy LS sedan, it is not my own right now it's still my parents but i do plan on buying it from them when I start working later this month. I am aware of the options I can have like boosting it or building the whole thing, but I'm not trying to blow it up because I need it for school and for it to be reliable. Any brands for stuff like exhaust's, intakes, cometics, and other smaller stuff. I am willing to listen to most ideas and eventually I will take pic of it and upload them but I have to make the effort. But anyways, any brands to look forward too for mods and certain mods are accept. -
I recently purchased a 2018 Subaru legacy 2.5i limited and I absolutely love it. the more I drive it the more I wish I could hear the exhaust of the car. I have been looking at ordering a new exhaust for it. my question is: Is there any performance enhancements that I could do by swapping out some of the factory exhaust system for a bigger or better system? im not looking to take it on the track or anything just looking to make it sound meaner and if I can get some extra performance out of it id spend the extra money. thanks, Wisconsin Kyle -
(updated with the answer) Symptoms: The transmission on my 5 speed 2000 Legacy GT (AWD) sounds like an angle grinder or go-cart (grinding/buzzing/putting noise). Started making noise overnight, in every gear and in neutral, sounds like something rotating/grinding and is proportional to the car's speed. When the car isn't moving there isn't any noise. Another interesting thing is that in 5th gear (possibly others, but most noticeable in 5th) it makes noise with 0 throttle, less noise with 1/8th throttle, and then more noise again if you go past that. What more knowledgeable friends have said: A trusted mechanic said it's probably a bearing in the transmission, but he doesn't work on them so I'm not confident he knows the exact issue. A good friend said he had a similar issue on his 2000s era Forester, and it was the center differential, but I've heard that if the differential is the issue, the symptoms will get worse while making tight turns, and I haven't experienced that, at least at low speeds. Possibly relevant info: I had a rear tire replaced this past summer, they didn't shave it down. I measured them and it was essentially the same size. Maybe a small difference in diameter caused an issue? ANSWER: I'm transcribing from the mechanic so this may not be 100% accurate: The transfer gear was split, which damaged/destroyed center differential (and the back clip came off). The transfer case damaged as well. The mechanic said it was just normal wear and tear, so I'm not sure if this had anything to do with one of the tires being replaced. -
I have recently purchased a 1996 Subaru Outback with a 2.2 liter EJ 22 engine that I know very little about. so far I have replaced the clutch and the axles and just in time to blow a head gasket . So in lue of just getting another car i have decided to turn this car into an ultimate adventure wagon, ntm b4 I blew the head gasket it had quite a few problems with lack of power and failing gages . at this point i am ready to put a new engine in the gal and do a complete overhaul . being that i am not a mechanic and i have a limitted budget, I have a lot of questions. first of these is; what can i do to achieve 250 hpaw with a 2.2 l engine ?
