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Showing results for tags 'LOYALE'.
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Hey guys. I've got a 92 Loyale I've been rebuilding, and I think I've got everything squared away but one thing is still bothering me: the fuel gauge doesn't function. It always shows empty. I could track my mileage, and I've had to do that before in another vehicle, but I like everything to work. I really don't know much about how to go about this. I know there's the access panel under the carpet in the back, but beyond that I'm not sure how to proceed in an efficient and logical way. The two wires under the access panel are corroded as hell. So I'm going to clean that all up. I really hope it's not the sending unit, I really don't want to have to try a chase down a new or aftermarket one! Any thoughts guys? Thanks
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Hi guys, I'm fixing up a 1990 Loyale, (after my 92 Loyale was sadly stolen and totalled) and I'm almost done except for one issue - the front wheel bearings. I've never had to do this before on a Loyale, typically I've just replaced the entire hub assembly. However it appears it is not that way on the Loyales. It's the ea82 no turbo, 5 speed manual with the push button 4x4. Could someone help instruct me on how I should go about replacing these front bearings? Thanks!!
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If I were to design a 3D printed cup-holder to replace the Loyale's slide-in center console (between the seats and under the handbrake), would people be interested? I'm currently modeling it for my '92—not having cupholders has been brutal. Also, is Srj still actively fabricating parts for the these older subarus? He hasn't updated his website in forever. Cheers, -Alex
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I’m picking up a gen 3 Loyale wagon 5spd 4wd. 375k on the chasis and 150k motor from a wrecked 2WD. It’s been driven daily by the owner for the past month since the motor swap. My plan is to get it ready and reliable for driving up Mt Hood and snow this winter. I mean it already sounds decently reliable while the guy’s been taking it down logging roads solo. But I’d rather work on things now while the weather’s decent to work outside and the lifts aren’t running. I’ve never had a vehicle at this mileage before. Seems a lot of things can wear out in 375k miles. What are some good preemptive measures and maintenance to should take care of? What are some things that could shockingly live forever without touching? Maintenance that’s likely to have happened by 375k? (Not that there’s any way of really knowing) Leaks some oil but seems fine if it stays topped up. How concerned should I be about the head gasket? Motor is only at 150k. Power steering is out but still drives okay. After reading some threads it sounds like some people just drive it and don’t bother fixing. Probably want to avoid any Austin Powers parking scenarios. The struts could be better. It looks like replacing them with stock KYB will raise the rear end. Any remedy here? Or it’s a non issue? Not too worried if that’s an advantage when loaded down. Otherwise it starts, handles, and stops fine. Should I replace springs? Seems like that isn’t a common thing to do around here The A/C works so that should take care of defrosting. Even the rear window defrost works. The heater functions but could be better. The 4WD works. Love the light up display when you hit that Fire Torpedos button! Has (used) snow tires on it already. Debating on buying newer snow tires or all terrains. Eventually I want to do a 2” lift, auxiliary battery, extra lighting. That is, if it doesn’t blow up before I can get to any of that. Priority is to get the thing reliable for the mountain. I have tools but haven’t done any serious car work in a long while and only worked on motorcycles for the past few years. I’m capable but compared to bikes I have a feeling this thing will be more ...involved. So what should I get to work on?
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I have a 1990 Subaru loyale with a no start no spark I’ve replaced ignition distributor made sure it is properly wired the only thing is the ignition pulse if I’ve done the test right with a test light. there is no pulse. There is also other random stuff that doesn’t work on the car , lights, dash light etc. I wondering if it is infact the ecu that isn’t working and if not other things it would be side note there is no check engine light or codes -
Hello everyone, new to the forum. I have searched around a bit but could not find the info I was looking for. I have a 1990 loyale that hasn't run in quite a while. Over that time rabbits had rotten under the hood and eaten a bit of its wiring. I recently got it started and have replaced most of the eaten wires. However all 4 of the throttle position senor wires connecting to the harness are gone. Would anyone be able to get a picture of the orientation of those wires into the tps? I have been able to find 3 pin versions all over but not the 4 pin which I believe is a later model part. Thank you for your time.
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My buddy Eric1111 has been working on my car. I cant sign into his account for some reason to post this so I made my own account to post for him. (Loyale 1990 with weber conversion) Eric says-- I've just finished replacing the clutch components and was to the point of trying to start the engine. It turned over nice, sounded good, good battery, but I hadn't hooked up the throttle. Next try, turns over nicely, timing's off, shut off the key, adjust timing. Try again, turns over, but timings wrong. Shut it off, adjust timing. Turn the key and nothing happens. Now the horn works, the emergency blinkers work. The chime that tells me my hand is on the key works, but I can't find anything else that does work. All the fuses look good. The fused links look like they did before, and I switched them around,looking for some change. The battery reads 12.48V, (It was 12.49 before I jumped the starter, which turned the engine over easily), but at the ignition switch,the hot wire reads 11.82V, with the key in the off position. Is the 1 volt loss an issue? I thought I had it narrowed down to the ignition switch. Replaced that to find zero change. Been workin on this car all day with Adam Sandler's POS car tune going in my head. Any thoughts on what the issue is?
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Hi all! I drive a 1992 Subaru Loyale wagon and just finished an intake gaskets change but cant seem to get the car to start now. This was my first big repair and it feels bad when the car doesn't start once back together!! I also replaced fuel lines and some coolant hoses along with an egr solenoid and a purge solenoid valve. I didn't take many pictures but I am pretty sure its all wired back up correctly. Battery was checked with a multimeter and is fine. Bad spark plug wires are one of my guesses and im grabbing some later today along with new spark plugs (since one plug might have got coolant in it during intake job). I have two videos of the car with its sounds attempting to start. https://vimeo.com/412065609 https://vimeo.com/412065609 Any and all suggestions would be great!! Thanks!! -
I have a Subaru loyale the last wiring to the ignition coil it’s all weird looking there and extra plug if anyone can help thank you so much. and if any one has any pictures of there ignition coil wiring that would be great
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I have a 90 loyale that has a no start I have replaced the coil and there is no spark right after the coil I am wondering what these plug goes too will show in picture it is the same kind of plug that plugs in the the transistor the weird thing on the ig coil bracket
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Hi there, I've read a few threads already but I want to get some things straight because I'm not a mechanic. I have a 92' Loyale Wagon, SPFI, 5spd manual, 130k Original Km's (80k miles). Codes show 24 and 34. (http://www.troublecodes.net/subaru/) 24 Air control valve or circuit 34 EGR solenoid or circuit The car starts every time, Idles a bit high on cold start (but only owned it since the beginning of winter so not sure how it idles normal in warmer temps), seems like it struggles at about 110+ km/h (70mph) but I understand it's not a fast car. No funny sounds coming from engine. Based on my web knowledge about vacuum leaks it doesn't seem to be a vacuum leak. So it must be these valves/solenoid? Reading a bit more stuff I found out the Air control Valve and EGR Valve can build up carbon deposits. My question is: If I replace just the Air Control Valve and the EGR solenoid will that clear the codes? For the Air Control Valve code - Will carbon build up in the throttle body or in ACV trigger the check engine code? For the EGR code - Will a dysfunctional/clogged EGR valve trigger the CEL or is it just the solenoid? I understand if I replace the valves and give it a little TLC, its probably good for the long run. But want to get your guys input and solutions for more confidence and less frustration when the doing job A lot of the threads tend to go into more technical stuff or are just very basic and old so I decided to start a new thread. Thanks for reading Randolph. -
Finally got around to scanning the instructions that came with my NOS factory fog lamps. I did some (light) investigation and there doesn't seem to be a good way to wire these to turn on without the headlamps also being turned on. Hope this can help some people out! Subaru_EA82_Factory_Fog_Lamp_Installation_Instructions.pdf -
Hello everyone. Accidentially let the protection on my coolant drop too low and had a couple cold nights pop the freeze plugs on my Subie. Motor starts and runs fine, as long as coolant is in the vehicle. Need some guidance on R&R for the freeze plugs. Never done them before, so as much detail as possible would be appreciate. TIA
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Hello, I need to pass emissions in California with my 1994 Loyale. When I took it in to get tested it passed everything except for the visual of the EGR system. The tech said that when he pushed the diaphragm on the EGR valve, the car should stumble and/or die, but it didn't, which he said was a symptom of clogged EGR passages. I took the EGR valve off, cleaned it, the stem moves well, even when on the car and I increase throttle to 2500 rpms. The carbon deposits didn't look too bad. I tried to clean the passages with a speedometer cable and some carb cleaner. I found that I couldn't get it around some of the bends in the passages. I knocked some carbon loose and vacuumed it up and tried blowing air down the passages. When I reinstalled the valve again, the car still wouldn't change its idle when I pushed the diaphragm in to open the valve. In fact the car ran fine without the EGR valve on (it was louder since it was blowing exhaust gases out of the lower hole). The EGR valve moves when applying vacuum and holds it when I keep the vaccum applied, so it doesn't leak when it is closed and is not seized. Also, the vacuum hoses don't seem to have a leak, since it opens at higher RPMs. I also have a 35ohm resistor mounted on the purge valve solenoid instead of the old stuck solenoid in order to clear the CE light. Would this effect the car and keep it from dying when pushing the EGR valve diaphragm? Or is it a completely different system? The EGR solenoid is brand new. What do you recommend that I do? Is the tech right? Are the EGR passages clogged? How do I get at them? I unscrewed the flare nuts that hold the 90º EGR pipe in place, but seemingly couldn't remove it without taking the intake manifold off. Also, I remember cleaning that pipe 10K miles ago when I did the head gaskets, so I imagine it is other passages? Does anyone have a diagram of how the passages run? Any other tests I can do? Many thanks! -
Hi all! Just recently purchased a 1993 Subaru Loyale Wagon from a single owner. The beautiful green box is a 5 speed manual (which is very new to me). I have only had 3 hours of seat time, but have already fallen in love with the car. There is currently a check engine light on and I cannot figure out how to the check codes! I have done a moderate amount of searching to find out that the diagnostic connectors are green and on the drivers side in the engine bay. When I plug those green connectors together the check engine light goes away and does not flash. I was under the impression the light would start flashing at me. I have only done moderate car work on 2005 saturn ions. So I am new to most mechanical endeavors, but cant wait to put some blood, sweat and tears into this ea82. Im sure this is some simple issue, but my mind is all over the place. This OBD1 business makes my head hurt Also I was wondering if anyone could tell me some average idle RPMs for the 1993 loyale manual transmission. It was stable around 1k the first week I drove it but sometimes sticks closer to 500. Thanks!! Sorry if this is readily available information.
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Evap/egr system is bad enough to make replacing the efi with the weber look like a good idea, but how's the ea82 to rebuild when its time to do so? Are any of the newer engines candidates for transplant/drop in instead of rebuilding the ea82? By the way, thanks for all the help I've gotten so far from your forum.
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Alright boys, this ones got me scratching my head. Leaving work last night, I went to fire up my 1992 Loyale and every thing was fine at first. Being winter, I sat and let it warm up a few minutes. It was running a little rough, but I live in Anchorage, Alaska and its pretty chilly. Maybe 20 degrees. When i say it was running a little rough, it's normal steady rhythm was off, like it was missing a beat or two. Typical for a cold start. I went to pull from thr curb. About a block down the road, still running rough, right after shifting into second, the engine quit. No extra noises. After trying to restart immediately failed, i pushed it to the curb. Popped the hood. I found nothing obvious. I improved the battery's ground and the ground off the transmission (by the way, i do not understand this wires function. It runs from the top of the trans housing to the upper framework that would hold the spare. If it is disconnected the car still operates, but at 8 volts not 12-14, and fluctuates with the clutch. If someone could explain that I'd really appreciate. Ive owned and turned wrenches on this thing for 10 years and still dont understand that wire. Its a manual. There should be no electrical in the gear box, right) Anyways. It was pretty darn low on fuel, but the gas light wasnt on yet. To be sure I put a few more gallons in. Checked the oil, also low but not terrible. Topped it off. It still won't fire up. It turns over, theres good power. It tries to start weakly. It sounds like it wants to. Its dark so I'll check it out more tomarrow. I just dont understand what it could be. It was running good, then just quit just like that. Ive done a lot of work to this ride. Timing, alt, new batt, throw out bearing, valve cover seals, etc. Any help I'd deep appreciate. -
Question: do all 4x140 Subie wheels fit the 90s Loyales? I was chatting with a fellow a while back about older gen DL/GL wheels not fitting newer Loyales due to brake clearance, etc. Being I have zero experience here, I thought I’d ask the experts. Ive got a lead on a sweet set of 13” “H” style wheels (from and ‘85 I believe.) Any known issues fitting these on my ‘90 Loyale Wagon? Also, anyone know where to score 2 matching center caps?
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Hello all, hope you're having a good night (or day)! My '92 Loyale has run well for the past couple months I've owned it. No overheats, no stalling and good, smooth power (for a Loyale). A couple days ago I got bored and decided to drain and replace my coolant which was brown and a little chunky. I'm very very new to auto maintenance and I don't really have anyone to tell me what's what, so I didn't recognize the brown coloration as a sign of oil-coolant mixing. Drained it all out of the radiator and flushed with water till it came out clear, filled it up with new coolant and bubbled it for about 30 mins just like the YouTube videos said. Of note is that it didn't take all 6 qts of coolant like it's supposed to, only about 3. I chalked it up to some water from the flushing process staying in the block. Like I said, not very experienced. Car ran just fine for about two days until it overheated in the Chick-fil-A drive thru (best possible time, I know) and blew some white smoke out of the tailpipe. Of note is that my temperature gauge never went above about half, nowhere near the red. I went inside and ate my chicken sandwich and let it cool down. Coolant was back to that nasty brown although the level hadn't gone down, still right up to the fill cap. However, my oil was low beyond the dipstick. I had checked the oil a few days prior to changing the coolant and it was right where it should be. So I go to the Publix conveniently right next door and fill er up. Drove home (only about 2 miles) with no noticeable loss of power, but a steady rise in temperature. I thought at first that low oil might have caused the overheat, but it was still happening with oil full. Did some research and found that burning coolant makes white smoke, and that that mainly results from blown head gaskets. But the thing is, the car hasn't blown any white smoke since that day at all. Not only that, but my oil is still clean, I haven't noticed any loss of power, and my radiator hoses are squishy while engine cold. Only the coolant is brown and contaminated. I think the issue may be combustion gas in the coolant system that's preventing my thermostat from opening and preventing me from adding the correct amount of coolant. What do ya'll think? Am I stupid and missing something obvious, because I wouldn't doubt it. I bought some pour-n-go head gasket sealer as a stopgap till I can take more drastic measures, but I don't really want to pour it in brown coolant until I know what the problem is. Any advise would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance! -
My Loyale was stolen last night. Just I ncase anyone in the SF Bay Area spots this one on the road. it was stolen 5/15 please contact me Luke - 808 seven 56 five 705
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I have a 93 loyale wagon, and recently the ebrake will work for a couple of weeks then not work for a couple of weeks, if I turn the wheels and have someone pull the ebrake I can see it working near the brakes. I’m confused, please help lol -
Edit I'll be in Eugene OR for Christmas, does anyone have mechanic recommendations my 92 Loyale could use. Stock ea-82 w/ 160k, Dr swap, 2 inch SJR lift, 1.5 sub frame drop. Rear disc. Toyota rear struts with Accord springs. I've done the majority of work myself but just cant do another axle job. Im starting to think its something to do with me and not the axles. I got rebuilds from Marshall at FW Enterprises I'm looking for someone that would appreciate some of the not so stock things about it help me improve the suspension and advise on engine maintenance. I am moving to Denver next summer so I might wait to work with some of the mechanics out there. Seems like there are more options. Thanks
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Car leaking at Rear Glass (back windsheild??). Leaking at lower right corner. I had the rear glass removed and reinstalled. To remove rear glass you need to remove the two plastic side vent covers. I need the right cover, the sister lost the part and I can't even find a part no. in any of the online part supplier drawings. 93 Loyale Sedan Rear Glass Side Vent Covers (plastic) these cover openings on each side of the rear glass which let air which enters the cabin from the cowl to exit the cabin. The covers fit well and stop any water from getting in. I have a few photos. Can anyone tell me what Subaru calls these? Or, what the part numbers or section of the Subaru parts catalog to look in? They press on/in and the clips are old plastic and can break. My glass guy got the left side off with only one clip breaking and was able to reinstall it by gluing the broken clip.
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Two hours ago my1991 Loyale just stopped running. Attempt to restart acted like timing was way off and there was backfire. As timing belts were visible (I've been leaving t.b. covers off) I rotated the crank bolt and checked flywheel marks with cam sprockets. All good there, showing that timing belts did not jump. Car running fine, no warning, then stall. Recent history: I got some gas just 5 minutes before (Was on empty) . Nobody tampered with car. And - I pulled ignition coil wire and car cranked over normally. Check ECM under dash. No codes. Will check distributor cap and rotor in the morning. Thanks
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Any help or info would be a help. Thanks Isaak---
