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Showing results for tags 'MAf'.
Found 8 results
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My outback is saying misfire on cylinder 3 & 4. Shop says try unplugging MAF sensor while acting up, and that will tell me if that's the problem. Can't find it for the life of me. They sell MAF sensors for this year, but I see in various forums that there is no MAF sensor in this model. Please help. I've found the MAP sensor. I also replaced plugs and wires. Going to replace coil pack next. -
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For the last 3 weeks I've been battling a cluster eff of symptoms most here would think are related to failing sensors, injection or other. And there were no CEL or codes stored(!!!) Things replaced or checked in order Replaced efi fuel pump & filter. Pump had died in mid July. Blew air thru suction line to clear any junk on fuel tank strainer - nothing Checked evap cannister & fuel tank purge lines - good. Checked evap sol valve - good. Replaced plugs, cap & rotor, spark plug wires, coil. Replaced optical sensor in distrib & upper 6200 sealed ball brg. Needed optical sensor as there was corrosion inside distrib. Brg was 'crunchy' Replaced MAF sensor - twice. Once with unknown used one & once with "reman" Cardone MAF. Waiting for known good genuine Hitachi MAF to arrive. Then will put "Car-do-nay" on shelf as spare Checked CTS - good. Pulled apart air cleaner & snorkel under fender to check for obstruction - good Rebuilt SPFI throttle body & checked TPS for dead spots - good Checked front cat, rear cat & muffler for obstructions. Replaced rear cat for general principle as it was a 8 yr old aftermarket Magnaflow CA legal cat. Added an O2 sensor bung ahead of new cat for 96 EJ efi conversion. My 87 4wd GL was bucking-cutting out randomly. Stalling after starting. Losing power at top end in any gear. Got to point of being undriveable. I have no room in driveway right now(of course) to Ej it otherwise I would have. Will have to wait until I have space to work. Car is registered in MT so it is exempt. Yay! After replacing the rear cat & getting no where I stopped for the night to test drive again in morning. Glad I did. Started with difficulty. stalling a few times until it ran with coaxing from me using throttle pedal - a lot of coaxing. As I was getting in driver's seat, I hit the lower dash panel. Then it died. AHA!!!!! Pulled down panels. Started digging into the wiring to look for loose connections but found none. Pulled down ECM & swapped in my backup ECM. Replaced ignition & fuel pump relays above ECM mount while I was there(had ordered them a week before just in case). Started engine with no problem & no stalling. IAC behaved normally raising idle to warm up. As I was lifting ECM back in place the engine died again. Hmmm. Started checking further into wiring. Found that there was corrosion in sensor connector - the translucent white connector with all the shielded sensor wiring. All sensor wires go thru there. Cleaned the contacts.Then repeatedly put conn together & pulled it apart a few times to 'wipe away' the corrosion. Put ECM back in mount bracket. Went for test drive. Runs better than it has in months. I can recall some hesitation, loss of power & etc when I came back from MT. This must've been it all along. Anyone else mystified by a long long list of things checked or replaced with no positive result ought to look under the dash at sensor connector(its next to rectangular gray diode to left of ECM) & ECM connector corrosion. Look to the engine bay harness for corrosion too. Any intermittent connection in harness would replicate the symptoms we associate with clogged cats, failing ignition, failing injector, failing MAF, etc. Enough to drive you nuts............. Happy hunting! -
Hello all: Been creeping the forums for awhile, Have tried several fixes but with some slight performance . First car is a subbie impreza outback sport, 2.2 with air. This is my daily work driver 100 miles a day interstate driving. I started when I was going to leave work i just started the car and it stuttered and started to stall. I then shot the pedal to it and it started running better on the drive home it developed a stutter or miss at 1500 and 2500 rpms. When it is running it is fine until it hits the revs listed then it stutters and as it passes the target area it clears and runs better. I went and to it to a local mechanic and he put it on a code reader and it was popping MAF. SO with that being said I started the dreadful sensr change. I changed all the sensors, IAC , crankshaft, camshaft, temp sending and relocated the anti-knock sensor to the back of the block. I also replaced the MAF and it still pops when it gets put on the tester. The Coil pack has been replaced and the ignitor also. New wires and plugs, I also sea foamed the engine so im leaning towards it jumped time or a Vac leak? I have also changed out the fuel filter and Marvel mystery oil the fuel. it is sporting 165k and has had a new belt, water pump and thermo within the last 30k.. doesn't run hot but has a low idle. the comp was cleared and reset but now I am just at a loss of where to go or direction. Any help would be greatly appreciated... I aslo checked all the grounds and cleaned them. -
I'm trying to locate the mass airflow sensor because I think this may be the cause of my rough running forester. But I've checked online and can't find a diagram of where it is on my car. I found a device that I thought was it on the throttle body area- when I pulled it, it looked like a metal mushroom and no sign of wires. It was dirty so I cleaned it, but I don't think it is the MAF. Maybe I don't even have one? I dumped half a can of seafoam in the gas, and now I'm going to seafoam a vacuum line. Thanks for any healp and/or diagrams. ironandsteel -
Hey all. I have been looking at upgrading my intake and would love to try to go with a Ganza style pipe. Problem is I have a MAF sensor on my 99 OBS. I currently have a Spectre drop in filter and second filter in my torque box so it doesnt have an air leak. Does anyone know if I could fab something up to locate the MAF between the torque box and TB? I wasn't sure if this would interfere with anything or cause the MAF to get too dirty. -
Hey Subaru Nation - I have a 1992 Legacy 2.2 (non-turbo) and I'm trying to diagnose some idling issues. The car runs fine but once its warmed up it begins to surge idle at stops (sometimes stalling). I had a cracked air intake and I replaced it with no resolve and I've cleaned out the throttle body and I'm currently replacing the Idle air control valve with a new one (new gaskets all around). My next option is replacing the mass air flow sensor. My current sensor has 5 pins and all of the replacements I've seen online have 5 slots but only 4 pins?? Does it matter? Will the 4 pin work the same? Also if anyone has any further ideas or sollutions for idling issues - I'm much appreciative. I've also changed out the coolant/thermostat. Thanks for the help! -
Hello All, I have an 84 brat turbo, which the car dies after driving, very intermittent, A quick Key off, on will get it going again. it idles for a few minutes then just shuts off. I replaced the computer, mass air flow, Distributor. I recently replaced the transmission. the car sat for a few months with the key accidentally left on (battery dead) after the automatic tranny swap, it had 2 bad injector coils. two injectors replaced, it would run, but had a bad miss at various rpms. so I ordered a remanufactured computer ecu. this did not fix it I then unplugged the mass air flow. it ran better, but not right, so I bought a remanufactured MAF. this made it a little better, I then replaced the entire distributor, no change. I unhooked the knock sensor unit, unplugged the altitude sensor, etc eliminated every electronic component I could still intermittent acts up. It does this with the anti knock control unit unplugged.(car will run without it) It idles better with the Mass Air flow unit unplugged as well. I measured all wiring from engine side of wire harness to the ECU, nothing measures bad. UGGGG!!! at this point. Tomorrow I plan on replacing the coil, and fuel pump. seems to act up when I hit a bump on a right hand turn. also, with headlights off it runs better. Im thinking either the fuel pump is getting knocked and acts up, Coil may be getting hot and drawing more current, or alternator is acting up when hot. Car runs with battery terminals unhooked, so I know alternator is charging. I will ultimately fix it and post my findings. I still love my little money pit.....BTW also has a new turbo....wheel bearings, got a small fortune in it.... I named it Johnny Cash..... one piece at a time....only wish it didn't cost me a dime... Bill https://www.facebook.com/bill.sherman.58
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I beleive my afm went out on my 86 rx ea82t, with a paddle style air flow meter, when plugged it won't idle and spudders, unplugged it runs smoother, but of course i need it to be right. Does anybody know a place to get one, since i feel that finding one isn't gonna be that easy, and i don't wanna pay steep prices for a new one? Just for kicks, has anyone heard of using one from another car?
