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Showing results for tags 'Manual transmission'.
Found 15 results
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I am refurbishing a 2002 Subaru Outback Wagon Manual Transmission for my teenager's first car. Part of the job was to remove and split the transmission cases to fix some leaking seals. I reassembled the cases and found that I have two extra pins (see photo). Some time has passed since I disassembled the transmission and I can't remember where they went. Does anyone recognize the pins and know where they should be installed? The first pin in a rolled spring pin about an inch long. It's a double pin with a smaller pin inside it. The second pin is a toothed pin similar to the pins that mount the front axels but of a different length. This one is about 1 7/8" long.
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Hello all, I am absolutely certain I am not the first, nor will I be the last to come on and ask about this particular issue pertaining to these transmissions. However I cannot find a clear answer from browsing other posts and forums, so here goes. My '02 Outback wagon has a 5-speed out of an early GD chassis Impreza WRX (Bugeye) installed. I recently had it rebuilt, as I didn't really know what the condition of it was and how many miles it had on it, and I also had the clutch replaced while the transmission was out of the car. For the past little while I've noticed that when slowing down with the car still in gear from about 3K RPM to about 2K RPM it makes this very distinct rattling/grinding noise. I have narrowed it down to a transmission fault as the noise is nowhere to be heard with the clutch disengaged, however what that fault is is somewhat unclear. The most prevalent response has been cheap transmission fluid (which would not surprise me in the least), to other more serious problems. So, I am seeking out help from you all to get a more concrete answer to this question. Some additional information if this may help with proceedings, the transmission can grind when shifting into first when at a stop (however this is often remedied with shifting into second before shifting into first), it occasionally grinds on the 3rd to 4th up shift (especially if you are or have been travelling at higher speeds, eg travelling on freeways although it does do it occasionally with low speed, in town driving), and very rarely on the 4th to 5th up shift during passing maneuvers. Recently, when the transmission is cold it will make a very loud rattling noise when moving off from a stop in first, and when idling at a stop in neutral. Once the transmission has warmed up a bit after a small amount of driving this more recent noise is no where to be heard. Any help on this matter would be greatly appreciated! -
New Forester, 2015, bought in July of 2015 has the problem of popping out of first gear into neutral when decelerating on a slight downhill grade in first gear at low r.p.m.s (between 1000 and 2000 r.p.m.) It happened to my wife and me both, and happens about once every week or so. The problem is slowly increasing in frequency. The service department at our dealer has had the car since Thanksgiving and it is now Jan. 4th. They say they cannot replicate the problem. Has anybody run into this problem on a late model manual transmission Forester? -
I recently purchased a 2010 Forester with 95K miles and a manual transmission. The fourth gear would grind a bit when shifting fast, and I would have to make sure that the shifter was pulled hard all the way back to get it into gear. If I didn't the gear wouldn't engage and the gear would grind like it was sitting on top of the input shaft. I changed the fluid and it was black coming out. I put in 3 quarts Redline lightweight Shockproof and the rest Motul 300 75w-90 and it got rid of the grind. I do still have to really make sure 4th gear is engaged though. Could this be a worn shift linkage or bushing to replace that will tighten up the spacing or slack in shifting? -
Anyone help me please! I changed my clutch. Used the old throw out bearing as it has the retrofit sleeve and bearing was of much better quality than the one supplied. Anyways all back together now the fork with the bearing/sleeve/retainer clip just seems to have way too much play I can't figure out what I did wrong maybe a picture if the fork assembled completely before mating to the engine would help Please help I need to fix today! -
Appreciated Fellows, Today, I was driving my beloved Subaru "BumbleBeast" doing my usual daily errands, when I noticed that the GearBox was noisier than it used to be; despite that somehow it always has been noisy when I left the gas pedal only; but now, besides that such described noise is louder, it also developed a New noise that sounded like a fast little gear, almost similar to a turbo whistle, but coming from inside the GearBox; that fast pitch noise is mainly noticeable during acceleration on Second Gear. So, I came home to lunch, and right after that, when the Drivetrain cooled down, I went to check the dipstick on the GearBox, and it came out dripping dark fluid, it showed oil up to the full mark, then such oil was covered with something that seemed to be Water, whose mark went up more than Twice on the Dipstick, than the oily full mark. I did the old paper napkin Test: Let a drop from the dipstick to drip directly on a clean paper napkin, and the oil mark stayed dark and solid in the center, and a surrounding ring of wetness grown around: thus usually means Water in Oil. I have been with this Subie for the last thirty years and never experienced such a thing, nor in any other car, so I wonder... ► How the Heck, water found its way inside the GearBox? ► Or could this be some sort of moisture buildup? Please let me know your experiences with this issue / similar issues, the possible causes and ways to avoid it from happening again. I check the fluids on my cars on a weekly basis, it was alright; and the last time I went driving on a pond, was ~ a year ago; also I've not washed the engine in around two years... For those who don't Know, my Subie is a 1985 GL wagon with its original EA82 engine and 5MT GearBox, runs with a 2" Lift + 25" tires. Kind Regards.
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I'm having power to throttle ratio jerking and sluggishness issues in my 2005 Forester. I have a 5spd manual transmission. I know I have an Oil Pan Gasket leak and some belt slipping which I hear as an squeak especially when the AC is on. What are some trouble shooting methods and or obvious Maintenance I can do to resolve this issue? -
I recently drove a 1998 Outback Limited with a 5-speed manual transmission while shopping for a car for my son who will be commuting to a nearby college in the fall. The clutch is new & felt fine, but the gates for the shifter were horrible. It was especially hard finding 3rd gear and I bumped reverse a couple of times going for 4th gear. In all gears, the shifter could be moved left to right nearly as much as when in neutral while the gears were engaged and driving! Once the gear was engaged, the transmission stayed in that gear, but locating the gears was a guessing game. In the manual transmission cars I've driven before, the shift gate never allowed more than a slight left-right play when in gear - and these were ordinary cars, not anything high performance. When I asked the seller about this concern, he said that the shifter had been like that since he bought the car (used) in 2004 & he got acclimated to it. So, my question is: does this car need a repair to the shift linkage (or something else)? Or is this how Subaru made the shifter? (I find it difficult to believe that Subaru intended the shift gate/linkage to be so inaccurate & difficult to use) I have never owned a Subaru before & the car was otherwise in quite good condition for its age & mileage (about 180K). I think it would be a good car for my son, but he has never driven a manual transmission car (he really wants a car with a manual). At 19, I think the shifter in this car would be distracting & possibly dangerous for him. Please respond with thoughts, suggestions. Thanks! -
I have a 99 OBS and I love it except that it's not a manual. it has 270,000 miles but I just replaced a lot of parts and the only thing wrong is a slight exhaust leak and play in the rack and pinion. My friend is selling a 98 legacy outback with 210,000 miles and who knows what maintenance history but it is a manual. I'm tempted to buy his and sell mine (yes a manual means that much to me) but I'd rather swap my finicky AT for a 5 speed. Is this even a viable choice, or a ridiculous undertaking that cost a lot of money? Any advice or links would be greatly appreciated as I really don't know what would be a smarter choice.
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So i have an 84 GL wagon, just finished the 5speed swap. The 4wd is stuck in 4hi. not with the shift linkage or with pry-bars am i able to move it to 4low or 2wd. I'm supposed to make a few hundred mile drive tonight and I don't suspect id be doing very well on the "new" 5speed stuck in 4wd. Any clues, hints, advice would be greatly appreciated -
Alright. So a few months ago I bought a 95 Legacy 5 speed, AWD.sedan. It had 255,000 miles on it but the price was right (700$), and had a clean title so I bought it. It has a few mnor problems, like leaking a tiny amount of power steering fluid onto the exhaust so it smokes a tiny bit. and some minor engine oil leaks. But it starts every time, all the electrical stuff works (lights, windows, etc,). I've been driving it non-stop for over two months now and it has been a champ. I absolutely love it. It also had nice new Toyo tires on it and the suspension seems to be good. One thing I have noticed lately though is I'm not getting as good of fuel economy as I would expect. It costs me about 50$ to fill up ( I live in Oregon), and I usually get right at 15 gallons. I know it has a 15.5 gallon tank. by the end of that tank I'm usually at about 300-315 miles on it, which comes out to right at 20-21 mpg. I do a mixture of highway and town driving, leaning more in the town driving majority. I drive 7 miles to work and and 7 miles back every day, with about another 6-7 miles of in town driving on top of that. But I also do a lot of in town driving in between and on my days off. I'm not sure what it would get if I was driving highway miles all day every day. Presumably a lot better. In the car's defense, for the first month I had it I kinda hossed on it a little bit. Nothing outragous, just driving like a boy racer and shifting at about 4000 RPMs. I hadn't owned a stick shift car in about 5 years so I was pumped. Lol. Now I drive very sedately, shifting at about 3000 and not romping on it. Now I have already taken care of the obvious things that would help with bad fuel economy. I've changed the air and fuel filter and running a bottle of Lucas injector cleaner through every tank, I've changed the oil, changed the transmission fluid, changed the knock sensor (because I had a code pop up), PCV valve, I even run 40 P.S.I. in my tires hoping the higher pressure will help a little. No such luck. One thing though, since the car has so many miles I've been running Castrol high mileage 10W/40. Even though it calls for 5w/30 or 10w/30. I figured with as many miles it has it's not gonna hurt. But I was thinking maybe the heavier oil could decrease efficiency and therefore fuel economy...? Now you guys tell me, is this about what I should expect or should I be getting better? I figured because it was AWD it would get a little worse fuel economy, but not this bad. The people I bought it from said it got 28 MPG but I just can't see that unless they were driving exclusively highway miles. I did find this here: http://www.fueleconomy.gov/feg/bymodel/1995_Subaru_Legacy.shtml and it says for my model about 19 mpg in town. Which is about what I'm getting if not a little less. Any suggestions on what I could do to improve it? I look forward to your expert opinions. Thanks -
I know this has been discussed but right now I am searched out and confused. I have spent quite abit of time on the older side of this sight but my wife's forester is acting up. Right now I have the fwd fuse in place and the torque bind is still there. I wasn't sure of alot of things in the threads already posted. Is there a difference between Automatic and Manual tranfer duty systems? Is the clutch assemble filled seperate from the main transmission? What oils do I use? When and where do I ad a friction modiffier as suggested? There seems to be a wide variety of opinions on this. Thanks in advance. Cheers! -
I have a 1999 Forester with 185000 miles . It makes a clunking in the front end after driven and warmed up. My mechanic replaced the gear box fluid with original oil and friction additive. But it still has a clunk. It's not as bad as it was but still there. He says the awd clutch pack needs replaced. Thats about $700 So, is there any advantages to say putting a WRX transmission in? Will it mate up to my 2.5? I'm pretty sure I can pick up low mileage trans out of a wreck for less than $700. Just would like to try and upgrade/open my options up a bit. -
Hello, I have a 2002 Legacy L Wagon 5spd with 195k on it and it's in great shape, runs strong and I love it. I have put many hours into this car mostly in preventative maintenance (keeping the rust away is yearly task up here in SaltLand!). But anyway... my issue: A month or so ago I was pulling into a camping spot in some slightly off road conditions (which I do not normally do, I know it's AWD, but it's not a Jeep!). The place I was pulling into had shallow ruts and it was a very tight turn, and I had the steering wheel cranked all the way to the right and attempted to cross over the ruts and she stalled out because the front bumper cover hit a rock and I was being easy on the throttle. So, I was going to change my angle of approach and I backed up and tried again, and again, with the wheel pinned to the right, she shuttered, bucked and stalled out (remember, it's a manual transmission and I wasn't hammering the throttle). So, I then gave up on this way into the camp site and when I went to take off in first gear there was like this crunch, crunch sound coming from the front end. It was unmistakably a metal sound, so I thought maybe I was hitting a rock, so I got out of the car and looked under it to look for obstructions; and there was none. So I just shrugged my shoulders and continued on down the road. I started hearing like a "clack, clack" sound when I would let off on the throttle, and I thought maybe I broke a tooth on a CV joint or something. Later I noticed a whining when I got up to about 30 miles an hour, mostly when I let off on the throttle. It seems to go away when I give it throttle or am over 40mph. I showed a mechanic friend of mine the problem and he said not to worry about it... so I haven't been... UNTIL THE OTHER DAY! .... I was backing down a friend's dirt driveway and maybe going a little fast for being in reverse, but all of a sudden it just sounded like someone dropped a bag of ball bearings into my gearbox! It didn't entirely bind up tight (there were no skid marks) but it slowed way down, and as soon as this happened I threw the clutch in.... When I proceeded to back up, it seemed find again... It's been a week now, and it's still going, but has the whining and clicking sounds like it has since I broke whatever I broke. I will not be gunning it in reverse again! My question: what did I break, how can I fix it and how much longer do I maybe have until I will be without a ride? Has anybody else ever heard of anything like this or experienced anything like it? Any insight or direction would be appreciated. Thanks! Chris -
The Car: 1984 Subaru Brat EA81 Turbo - 5 speed D/R swap (3" body lift, increased tire size) ........................................................................... The issue: 1984 5-speed D/R Transmission has a small amount of play (side to side, up down movement) on both of the front splined-stubbed output shafts. on both (passenger and driver) sides of the Transmission. there is a noticable difference between the amount of lateral movement experienced in the front stub shafts (transmission) and the rear stub shafts (rear-differential). ...... i recently put in both new (not remanufactured) front CV-axle shafts, from O'reillys. (yes ive read all of your posts' about the low quality since acquisition). the axles went 200 miles and developed a significant amount of slop; to the point where i do not feel comfortable driving it. the inner CV axles (inner boot) on both front shafts are now quite sloppy. I popped out the pin and removed the Half shafts from the transmission splines (stub shaft) and found them to have some lateral (side to side) movement. I then compared this to a spare rear-differential i had in the shop and found the the transmission to have a noticable amount more slop than the rear-differential. ........................................................................... The Question: what is the correlation between the amount of slop on the stub shafts and its effect on the CV axles? vice versa? is it possible (or necessary) to tighten the stub shaft and remove the play? does an incorrect alignment increase the failure rate of CV axles? How can i get more life out of my half shafts? any other question and useful information on this topic?
