Search the Community
Showing results for tags 'O2 sensor'.
Found 14 results
-
Hey all. I just got done replacing both O2 sensors on my 05 WRX STI. It was throwing a running rich code, and getting abysmal fuel mileage, hence the sensor replacement. Now after the sensor swap, it hasn't thrown the rich mixture code with a 5 mile test drive. Now however it has a wandering idle. If you disengage the clutch and let it drop to idle, it will either drop so low it actually dies, or it will drop to around 200 RPM before climbing back to 800. It will also occasionally speed up the idle to 1000 RPM. It had this wandering issue before the sensor swap, but it was never bad enough to kill the car and generally wandered up instead of down. I have only had this car a few months and the previous owner tuned it. How is the idle controlled on this car? Is it all ECU controlled? Or is there something I can adjust? Do I just need to give the ECU time figure out it has new sensors? Thanks in advance. -
Hello: I have a 1995 Subaru Legacy Wagon. EJ22 / 186K. As it has gotten colder car has a fuel smell @ start up. The fuel smell is coming from the tail pipe and it seems that the car is running rich until it warms up. It has not thrown any codes. I am thinking that the O2 sensors need to be replaced. Any thoughts? Thanks much! Tom -
I have a 91 Subaru Legacy and it will not stay started when I start it unless it has been sitting for awhile, for example overnight. But if for instance I drive to the store and then shut off the engine and go inside and then come back out and try to start it again, then it will not stay started when I try to leave unless I give it gas at startup and I also have to keep my foot on the gas for several minutes to keep it from shutting off. I just had the following work done on it among other things: engine control module replaced, o2 sensor replaced, fuel pump replaced, fuel filter replaced and entire fuel system cleaned, air intake system cleaned/repaired. This along with everything else that was done came to over $1,500, and the car was in the shop for well over a month. Needless to say I do not want to take it back to the shop or invest any more money in it at this point. However I am curious to know what else could be causing it to not stay started aside from the things that I have already had looked at/replaced. I realize that it is an older car, but up until a few months ago I wasn't having any issues at all with it. I initially took it to the shop only because sometimes it wouldn't start at all unless I started it with my foot on the gas, but that only happened sometimes (though it did begin to occur more and more frequently and had gotten pretty bad by the time I took it to the shop). Is there something else that I could possibly do myself to fix the issue that I am having without spending an insane amount of money? Also, is it hurting the car to keep driving it even though it is doing what it is doing? I only still drive it like that because I have no other transportation at the moment. I also know it isn't the battery because I just had the battery replaced earlier this year, and all of the lights and other functions (radio, e.t.c.) work just fine. Side note: Not sure if this is an issue either, but if I turn the engine off and just sit with the key turned in the ignition (in the position just before starting the engine), then I hear a humming sound coming from the car which usually only seems to stop if I completely remove the key from the ignition. -
Hey Y'All, My '91 Subaru Legacy seems to have a flat spot (I believe that's the correct term, but I'm still not fully versed on some of this stuff). Generally occurs when accelerating (usually somewhere between 2k and 3k RPMS) or climbing a hill: I'll depress the accelerator but nothing happens (RPMS don't climb, no speed increase). If I keep giving it gas it'll eventually surge and begin accelerating relatively rapidly (except when climbing hills, usually I just have to limp to the top); sometimes it'll surge then return to lagging, then surge again. Doesn't seem to demonstrate this problem above 3k RPMS, though every once in a while it does below 2k. What I've done since the problem appeared. I've changed or had changed: spark plugs and wires, intake manifold gasket, O2 Sensor, & Throttle Position Sensor. Originally it had the flat spot intermittently and would occasionally lurch or misfire on the freeway (and I'd get an occasional ECU Code, though at the time I hadn't pulled the codes), so I took it to a mechanic for diagnosis (this is about a month ago at this point). They told me the sparks and wires needed replacing and I had them replace them. The problem persisted, so I took it back to the mechanic; they diagnosed a bad O2 sensor, bad intake manifold gasket, and bad fuel injector seals. I replaced the O2 sensor and intake manifold gasket. Car was 10x worse (had no power at all, couldn't maintain speeds above 30 or 40, etc.), so I took it to another mechanic who pulled codes for a bad O2 sensor and replaced that (the O2 sensor I'd used was cheap and the mechanic said it likely was poor quality). Now it's back to the condition I originally described (flat spot under load). After doing some research, I replaced the TPS (twice, using TPS's pulled from junk yard subarus), and it's appeared to fix the problem very briefly, but within a few hours the problems return. It has been giving occasional ECU Codes, specifically for the O2 sensor (which I have trouble believing is bad since it's been replaced twice), and just yesterday it threw codes for the TPS and Idle Switch. I'm at a loss. Still need to replace the Fuel Injector Seals, but haven't been able to get them out and scared of breaking them. Wondering about the possibility of a wiring issue since the O2 Sensor and TPS have both been replaced multiple times and continue to throw codes. Saw one post suggesting a knock sensor might cause such a problem, but not stoked to pull out the intake manifold again unless there's more indication that is a problem. Anyone have any thoughts? Thanks. -
I have a 2005 outback llbean 3.0 with 146,000 miles. Today the check engine light came on with a blinking cruise control light. Had the code pulled at Advance which said P0420 Catalyst system efficiency below threshold What is the fix? O2 sensors? up or down stream is there a way to determine? Best place to purchase and what brand? I assume down stream by the wording of the code?? Suggestions are greatly appreciated. I did replace the pcv valve about 1000 miles but not OEM. Also I believe there are oil leaks around the valve covers that should be fixed. Thanks in advance for your wisdom. gerald in NC 2005 subaru outback llbean -
So using an obd tool i got the code p0051 for my 2004 Legacy (35th Anniversary Edition) and subsequently changed the bank 2 O2 sensor 1. I am now getting a p0151 code which is low voltage for that brand new sensor. Strangely enough, in trying numerous possible solutions (cleaning the mass air filter sensor, checking for leaks, ect) and turning the code off hoping it will stay that way, i sometimes get a p0152 code, which means high voltage for that same sensor. how can i be getting both? and how do i get rid of them? any help would greatly be appreciated. Also since im new here if theres a better place to post this question let me know, thanks folks! -
I have a 2003 Subaru Impreza Outback Sport with 73,xxx on it. Recently, it has started to hesitate badly while accelerating and will not go faster than 50 mph. I took it to the local dealer, who wants to charge $2,300 to replace the catalytic converter and front o2 sensor, saying it was plugged...but it hasn't been glowing red hot. The check engine light is on (not flashing) I already replaced the catalytic converter, front o2 sensor, ignition coil, spark plug wires, spark plugs and the valve gaskets (oil came out when I pulled the spark plug cables) a couple months ago. The engine runs more smoothly with this more recent set of problems compared to when I first replaced the catalytic converter a few months ago. The catalytic converter would turn red hot then, which is why I replaced it. Any thoughts on what could be causing this problem? My apologies if this has been covered before on here...I'm new to the forum. -
I received the following 2 codes late last year: P0030 Heated oxygen sensor heater control circuit Bank 1 Sensor 1 & P0134 Oxygen sensor circuit no activity detected Bank 1 Sensor 1 After resetting the codes about 2 or 3 times, I replaced my Upstream O2 Sensor. No issues until just recently. Only this time I got the P0134 code alone. Either way, it's pointing me to the same O2 Sensor I just replaced. Before I purchase another, more expensive O2 Sensor - are there any other areas 'pre-upstream sensor' I should be looking in to? Sidenote 1 When the code popped up most recently, I removed the Sensor and cleaned with a wire wheel and replaced. Checked all contacts for resistance and continuity. Everything looked good and about 2 days later the CEL went out and didn't come back for about a month (where I'm at now). Sidenote 2 I burn a full quart of oil in between Oil changes (every 4,000 mi.). I mention this because I worry I may have the beginning signs of an internal head gasket leak (oil transfer between galleys and cylinders) which may jack up my combustion and fowl up O2 sensors. Just a thought though, I can't be sure of this as there seems to be no smoke from the rear at start up. Regards, -
The title pretty much explains it. Hubby replaced the battery today and the o2 sensor (based on a code 51 reading). He then tried to reset the code with the engine running and found out that he wasn't supposed to do that. I don't know if that is the problem, but now the car will not start. I think it is "dead" and doesn't even try to turn over. I will correct that if he tells me differently. I need to be able to get to work and get my car tags, but cannot due to the check engine light. Help, please :-). -
Ok so...the light is on on the dash. The car RUNS just fine. If I do not have to pass any inspections, is there any reason to go thru the hassle of changing my O2 sensor? I have a new Bosch and hear they are not the best anyhow. I will have more questions later as there are some tubes at the carb with screws in them deadheading them...Thanks guys! Joe in Washington state
-
So my legacy should be getting around 20 mpg city but is only getting about 15. It also has the slight smell of gas when you start it first thing in the morning but that goes away after you start driving. I looked around and the most likely suggestion was a bad o2 sensor. What do you all think of this diagnosis or any other ideas? I can answer any questions to help out. -
Hi Everyone!! I'm in need of some help. I live in California and I bought a 07 Impreza 2.5i (non turbo) about 2 years ago. After my first smog check the car's check engine and cruise control light came on. The cars performance has not changed or the gas mileage so I didn't pay attention to it. Now is time for another smog check and the car wont pass with the check engine light on (I tried reseting but the computer but OBDII picked up on it. too old of a trick). Well now I need to fix the problem but the emissions passed so I'm not sure whats going on. The computer is saying I need a new catalytic converter. Does anyone have any expirience with this problem? if so SHould I replace or clean the O2 sensors first and see what happens? should I use OEM or after market is fine for 02 sensors or catalytic converter? I want to be inform since I dont have any expirience with this problem. Thank you for your time -
I have had no problems driving the car. Parked it in the garage last Friday. Monday morning, it won't start but it does turn over and cranks. I have checked the following things: -- spark, good in #1 cyl. Didn't check the rest -- fuel, appears to be getting fuel, didn't measure fuel pressure -- timing belt- took of the end covers. Belt is intact and has good tension. Didn't check timing marks. -- codes- only stored code is 32 o2 sensor I did notice that the radiator fans run continuously when the key is on. Is this normal? I'm thinking about replacing the coolant temp sensor. Can the CTS fail in a way that would prevent the car from starting? -
Hi, just joined. I have a 97 legacy outback limited. Just replaced the O2 sensor and the Knock sensor per codes that came up on the diagnostic check. Check engine light stayed off for about 2-3 weeks and came back on a couple of days ago. Ran another code check and the only one that came up was P0141 which I just fixed. Wondering if it could be the new one or maybe one of the other O2 sensors? Any thoughts would be appreciated.
