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Showing results for tags 'OUTBACK'.
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So I have a 1997 Impreza outback sport that had a 2.2l in it. I swapped that for a 2.5l out of a 2000 outback and did my best to Frankenstein the harnesses together to get the engine to work. The research I had done previously said that an EJ22 ECU will run an EJ25. So I'm wondering if anyone can help me out if you have any information that may help. I did check and the engine seems to be getting fuel, air, and spark although I'm still unsure about the wiring on the IAC valve.
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Hello all, My '05 Outback 2.5 5 speed needs a complete exhaust system, including the catalytic converter. Not sure what to do. Would like to spend $2k-$3k. Can anyone suggest a junkyard to get a used cat? Can anyone suggest a decent aftermarket exhaust system? I want to give my mechanic some ideas so we get this done properly and at reasonable cost. Thanks in advance for any suggestions. Jeff in Boston -
Can someone please tell me which knuckle will interchange with my legacy outback wagon I have a 2000 legacy wagon but they don't look the same or at least the brakes and stuff are different. Also the 2000 is non abs and the 99 lobw has abs. -
Hey all, longtime reader here. I’ve gotta tons of great information from you guys in the past 10 years of owning subarus, so thanks in advance. Ok, hoping I can get some ideas on this problem that’s been driving me crazy. 1999 outback leggy, 2.5 dohc, 5-speed, 215k miles. Had a cyl4 missfire code that went away with new plugs and wires, but it comes and goes still, Although I don’t think that’s related to the issue I’m having. Car started randomly cutting out while highway driving, throttle did nothing for a few seconds like it was cutting spark or fuel completely.. But would come right back online after pumping to the floor a couple times. Cold starting it will start and idle but sometimes dies after 5-10 minutes, then starts right back up and idles. Car runs perfect when that’s not happening. I’ve driven it probably 200+ miles with this problem but it’s been getting more frequent. Sometimes it will completely cut out and not come back, then I turn the key off then it starts right back up and runs but cuts in and out frequently at any speed. yes the battery terminals are clean and have good connections, grounds as well. Things I’ve done/tried: New plugs, new wires, new ignition coil, fuel filter, fuel pump. Tried new cam and crank position sensors, Looks like all the connections are good on the harness. I unplugged the MAF and drove it around and the same symptoms came up. Any ideas on what I should look for/try next? -
I have 2008 Outback LL Bean with auto climate control and recently, it stopped blowing any heat on the driver's side. I figured a clogged heater core was to blame, but before I dove into a flush, I decided to also check the actuators in the dash and see if they were working. I found that the driver's side actuator (72131AG27A) does not move when the hvac system is run through the positions and heat setttings. The passenger's side actuators, (three of them!) visibly move through the same hvac cycles. Figuring the driver's side actuator must be dead and stuck in the cold position, I've tried ordering the part, but have a hard time finding it. As of today, it's discontinued if I call a dealership. Some sites list it, but they cancel the order when they can't find it. Does anyone know if it's possible to repair a non responsive actuator? Is there another place to search for hard to find Subaru parts? Can I manually bypass the actuator to get heat? Any help is greatly appreciated. -
Hi i need to swap out the trans in my 2000 Subaru Outback 2.5l auto 4eat. I need help to make sure what i buy is compatible. Can any 00 01 02 03 04 outback used 4eat trans plug and play fit and electrically connect in my 00 outback? Ive read that the gear ratios are the same across these years, but i dont know anything about the rest or electrical connections, harnesses, etc. Please help. I need to buy the right one. I can be sure to get one only out of an outback so final drive would be the same. Thx Paul -
Hey everyone, im new to the Subaru community and wanted some advice. I've got a 99 outback that was my fathers before he passed away, and i want to turn it into a tough and reliable off road camper. im willing to put money into it over the years and it going to be my daily driver here for a while. once we are past the head gasket issues what can i do to make sure this thing is it excellent mechanical condition for road trips and camping i dont want to get stuck on a mountain because of engine trouble. aside from the engine what other upgrades can i make to make this thing a tank off road? i want to be able to keep up with my buddy's jeep wrangler, i know i cant go everywhere he can go when he has a 3.5" lift with 37 inch tires. but i want to go as far as i can on a reasonable lift like 1.5-2.5" that wont make the car underpowered because of the extra weight, nor make the axels and joints more prone to breaking. can i upgrade the axels and joints? should i? what should i upgrade it to? this thing is going to be a dedicated daily driver and camper so i want to cover any potential failure points before they fail and beef them up. any suggestions or people to call other forums i should post on or whatever you think will help.
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Is there a difference in front CV axle shaft length between Outbacks and Legacies for the North American 2000-2004 body style? Thanks in advance. -
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So. I bought a 2003 Outback LL Bean with 196k. The car is in reasonable shape and runs pretty well except a slight hesitation and sometimes it idles a little rough/vibrates at idle. The main issue I'm having is that it likes to kick out about 1-2 cups of coolant every time I top off the radiator, it doesn't seem to keep pushing out coolant after that but it will have a very slow bubbling from the overflow hose into the tank at idle. I tested with a combustion gas test kit and after 2-3 min of testing the fluid hadn't changed color in any noticeable way. I do not see any active coolant leaks, maybe there is some seeping slowly but not that I can find. The only time I see coolant actually leaking from the car is if I keep topping off the radiator without removing some from the overflow. Also no strange smoke on cold starts, no contamination in the oil or transmission fluid. Currently I can just top off the radiator every morning and drive it all day (about 100 miles a day of stop and go traffic) and it never overheats; although the primary radiator fan does run a bit more than I'm used to with my other car (95 ej22) but that's it. I have replaced the radiator cap with a "safety" style and an OEM cap is on order; but I haven't changed anything else. I'm thinking a coolant flush, new OEM radiator cap and thermostat would be a good start but I'm not sure if any of those (besides the cap) could cause this issue and I'm wondering if I'm seeing the start of a head gasket failure but not enough at idle to show up on a test? Maybe a partially clogged radiator? Any ideas or advice are welcome; especially if you have experience with similar issues with an ez30d. (aside from things like telling my my engine sucks or I should buy another car...lol) -
Hello Everyone, im currently in a pickle, and in need of assistance. Long story short i placed a 2002 JDM EZ30D into my 1997 2.2L Impreza coupe. along with the entire 2003 outback L.L. bean Bulk head with front wire harnesses. Body Brighton Coupe Engine Ebay 36k JDM EZ30D Wires from 2003 LL BEAN Edition Drivetrain 2005 4.44 WRX 5 spd Transmission/Dif I have communication with the ECU Fuel pump loud n proud. primes as needed new battery starter alternator fuses relays etc. no joke 1 Check engine light MAF. its not installed so I can reach the wires under it. NOT THEE ISSUE. ignition Switch is from the Impreza and not the outback matching the engine Neutral safety switch bypassed 0 volts 5 volts thing done. Automatic gear selection circuit completed. car should think its in neutral. I want to turn the key and start the car... I know I can bump start it. I don't want to. the nice land lord lady saw me drive it in...has to see me drive it out wink wink. in a pickle Everything is working as intended upon the moment of turning the ignition on 1 turn unlock 2 turns speedometer gauge/ecu /fuel pump etc. turn on. 3rd turn-> to ON, every relay clicks starter weakly clicks then Silence. no rumbling T.T Not siezed has compression. Shut up =) Every Electrical ground has been gone thru OCD cleaned repeatedly checked, yep tight n clean. If I left something out. please notice it and ill explain further. Its done as cleanly as it could be done using all OEM parts. OCD OCD OCD SMS, Save My Subaru I Beg you. any info you can give me will be greatly appreciated. -
so what i bought . just normal city outback 3.0 VDC model and what it became to, first 5cm/2' lift spacers and larger tires 225/65R17 those had problems to fit there and live so i cut some plastic off there and hamered some stuff with hammer but in end all worked on those tires, and later i went for 7cm/2.8' lift just on spacers nothing else done and it works pretty cool , on high speeds on highway or just cornering tight in city this lift just works. front sway bar still in place , on this gen front sway bar is working with lift , though rear sway bar went off because it cant fit with lift . numbers in cm with 7cm lift front and rear proper recovery points and hili ft jack lift points and roof rack modified from 2001 so now that hi lift jack can be on full use and alike allways nothing is bought everything made by myself and because car was for trips so made something for myself too and to have small fire with us allways . very cmpact but made from pretty strong steel not thin and we sleeping in car too in trips with some foam matress it feels like sleep at home rly for 2 its just great. its taken from previous 2001outback that rusted away so i needed new car.
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I have an 03 Subaru forester x 2.5 SOHC and my cylinder heads and engine are no good. The forester engine that is original to the car did not have EGR. I have acquired a 2.5 long block from an 04 outback and I realize that I have to transfer over my intake assembly and most likely the cam and crank sprockets from my original forester motor. The problem I have is the drivers side cylinder from the outback came with an EGR port on the back of the drivers side cylinder head and the intake I will be using doesn't have the corresponding EGR port. Is it possible to somehow block or plug the EGR port on the outback cylinder seeing how my engine /wiring was never setup for that EGR tube. Any help would be much appreciated, Thanks, Dan -
Hello Soobys, A while ago I noticed this noise when I revv'd the engine in my 6-speed 2012 Outback 2.5i. In order to re-create this noise you have to be moving (forwards or backwards) at least 5mph and have the clutch in. With the clutch in, I revv the car up to about 3k and this noise happens. Heres a link to a video of me re-creating the noise! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1IevXcFcuJ0 Ive taken it to a couple different places to get the noise checked out, heres what they have said: Auto shop - the noise stems from a 5psi backpressure and clogged cat dealership - valve timing issue muffler shop - misfire, not the cat independent soob mechanic - misfire Any help is appreciated, Thanks! Jason -
I have a 2002 Subaru Outback with manual transmission. After driving the car for 30 minutes, a very loud whirring/humming noise starts (no noise or very very little the first 30 minutes). It get's louder with higher speeds, but is still very annoying at low speeds after the 30 min mark. When stopped, there is no noise at all. I took the car to a mechanic and he thought it might be a wheel bearing, but he checked them all and said they were fine. Based on reading past posts, I thought it might be one of the differentials. Based on what I read, I checked if my wheels clunk when making slow, tight turns and there is clunking after driving for at least 30 min but turns smoothly when the car is first started. Is there a way to check how the front and rear differentials are doing? If the fluid levels are ok, are the diffs ok? Thanks -
Quick question: I have a 2001 Outback that I want to lift. do I need any body spacers to go with 2” strut spacers? -
Hi all, My CEL went on the other day when I started my Subaru Outback 2011. My engine had a minor backfire and since then the idle has been on the fritz, going up and down with out and pressure on the gas pedal. From my research it seems like the idle control air valve. Can anyone verify this for me and recommend the best place to get a replacement part? Also, if anyone could point me in the right direction to locating the idle controls air valve in my current engine that would be awesome! -
Hello all! I've owned several Outbacks in my life but the newest I ever owned was an '03; much has changed since then, obviously!!! I'm considering buying a late model (current generation) Outback with the 6 cylinder engine but am leery of CVTs in general. All the Subarus I've owned have been 4 cylinder, manual transmission vehicles. Knowing that the Outback hasn't been offered with a stick shift for many years I'm left to choose between a CVT and an "old school" automatic. I have two questions for you folks: 1. What was the last year that Subaru offered an automatic (that is, non-CVT) transmission in an Outback? 2. What are your general thoughts, pro v. con, concerning the Subaru CVT? FWIW, I will NEVER tow with a vehicle I own so that's doesn't even enter into my thinking on this. I welcome your input!! -
Hey, all! I've been searching for some info about this 2012 Outback I'm looking at and leads me here. Thought to sign up to read further and probably ask some questions. Seems like a great community here.
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Mom's 2002 Outback keeps throwing the code p0420. I'm told this means "catalytic converter". History (within the last six months): 2002 Outback, odometer 165,000, purchased from used Subaru sales/repair business. - Engine bearing went out. Highway breakdown within 1000 miles of purchase. - Short block replaced. - Check engine p0420. Shop replaced cat saying maybe the engine failure ruined the cat. - Check engine p0420. Shop says 2002 Outbacks have this problem, not 2001, not 2003. Shop says we could 1) try various fuel additives, 2) replace cat with genuine Subaru part for around $1000, or 3) replace cat with a high performance cat Magnaflow for $500. - Installed Magnaflow - Check engine p0420. Shop says again its just this year for some reason. Options: 1) replace magnaflow with Subaru cat, and receive $500 credit, 2) swap 2002 computer out with a 2001 Outback, since its really the computer that is having the problem, or 3) keep trying different additives. When I mentioned o=o2 sensor, the shop said there's another code for that, so that isn't the problem. So what to do? Is this 2002 Outback cat problem a well known problem? Because I'm not finding a lot of talk about it. How exactly does information about the catalytic converter flow to the computer? How are o2 sensors related? How to get this check engine light to go away so my poor mother can drive in peace? -
Ok... I'm new. I don't know much about much, I have a lot to learn, and I broke my car trying to fix it. It's time to ask for help. My name is Katherine, I have a 2000 Subaru Outback with an EJ251AXAWL engine and a TZ1A4ZCABA 4-speed auto transmission. My goal is to put a naturally aspirated EJ207 in my car with a 5-speed manual transmission, and to replace the Brakes, Suspension Intake and Exhaust. I want to say that this Outback has a sentimentality to it, this is to say that starting with a "better subaru" is not an option, this car will be the one that has these modifications, no other, and i won't sell it or scrap it. That said I do desire honest feedback on how and what to do to her. Currently my Outback has a list of problems. 1- the transmission slips and needs replaced, this is what prompted this post and will be the first priority on my list of modifications and repairs. 2- both tie rod ends need replaced as well as the cv axles, this prompted my desire to replace the entire suspension. 3- the air conditioning doesn't work, i replaced o-rings but have not yet recharged the system so i don't yet know it the compressor is bad or the lines. 4- there is body rust on both rear fenders, worse on the passenger side. -
Hello all, My 2002 Outback has developed a very strange misfire recently, and while it probably inst a Subaru specific issue (I don't think at least), I wanted to ask y'all for help since y'all haven't done me wrong yet. The misfire started last week, it wasn't too bad at first, but got progressively worse and worse up to the point where it was feeling down on power, and stuttering to the point where it would almost stall out when moving away from a light. There was and still is no check engine light, it stuttered like crazy moving off from a standstill, it backfired like crazy, and it developed a small tapping noise that sounds like either an injector, something else top end, or even a small exhaust leak when I was moving/accelerating. I started running through the procedures of figuring out what the issue was, and I had narrowed it down to bad gasoline since I had filled up from a station that ran its tanks dry and had their pumps sitting for a few days. I threw a can of Sea Foam into the tank later in the week in the hopes that it would help fix any weirdness in the fuel. It did help, so over this past weekend I refilled from about half a tank and drove 300 miles round trip to my hometown and back to run out the tank and squeeze out any junk in there. While I was in town I pulled the spark plugs on the passenger side as well as the injectors. They were acceptably clean upon visual inspection, so that sealed the deal for me that it was a fuel issue (I didnt get a chance to flow test the injectors since I didn't really have the time/money to see if they were up to snuff however.) I also checked the plug wires and there were no breaks in them, they haven't been shorting on anything, and the contacts looked clean. When I returned back to town I refilled from very nearly empty, and drove it around town a bit. It was a night and day improvement, it didn't stutter anywhere nearly as bad, (the coupled of times it did stutter it was quickly killed off by adding more gas when moving away from a light), and even the tapping noise had either gone away or had quieted down to the point that I couldn't hear it. So, I thought everything was fine and dandy, I went ahead and poured another can of Sea Foam into the tank to stabilize any bad fuel left in the system, and called it a day. However this morning when I got in to drive to class, the stutter and tap had returned in force. What was interesting about this round is that it subsided quite a bit once the motor got some heat in it, and the noise was either very quiet or non existent. There still isn't a check engine light either. I'm pretty thoroughly stumped by this. I'm good with a wrench, but I cant diagnose to save my life so any help will be greatly appreciated. Just a little background on the car to make things easier (hopefully), it has 177k miles on it, it has had head gaskets done in the last 20k miles, O2 sensors replaced in the last 5k miles, and I just put a new catalytic converter on it less than 1K miles ago. It's also had the fuel filter replaced at some point, although I have no idea when. This thing has seen a pretty hard life, so honestly anything on this thing breaking wouldnt surprise me at this point. Thank you all in advance, -A -
I have recently purchased a 1996 Subaru Outback with a 2.2 liter EJ 22 engine that I know very little about. so far I have replaced the clutch and the axles and just in time to blow a head gasket . So in lue of just getting another car i have decided to turn this car into an ultimate adventure wagon, ntm b4 I blew the head gasket it had quite a few problems with lack of power and failing gages . at this point i am ready to put a new engine in the gal and do a complete overhaul . being that i am not a mechanic and i have a limitted budget, I have a lot of questions. first of these is; what can i do to achieve 250 hpaw with a 2.2 l engine ? -
2003 Outback H6 Taking a little road trip to the hill country next month. I rotated tires today. Took the opportunity to inspect around and try to get a little lube in the sway bar bushings - hoping to help an occasional 'groaning sound' from the rear when maneuvering/bouncing the car. some good news, some bad; tires evenly worn Centric PQ ceramic brake pads really last! So do OEM rotors. rear diff mount bushings look good, rear axle boots and everything back there actually looks OK to good. One or 2 suspension arm bushings look 'off-center/worn'. One of those could be source of noise I guess? No movement on rear wheel bearing up-down - side to side rocking test. No oil on top of (replaced, not original) struts. some wetness on the charcoal box ? - and, now I think, there may have been some wetness under the car from around there - will investigate further if it smells like fuel - haven't noticed that and it seems it would be quite strong in the garage if even a little gas were there??? Both sides of the front have about 2-3mm of 3-9 o'clock movement at the wheels(tires on) - appears to be inner tire rods. No apparent problems felt inside or tire wear but, I will put that on the 'to-do' list for this fall or more likely next spring. One front bearing test moved about 1mm up-down. I may let that wait...can't decide. If I diy that, everything I've read leads me to believe I should tackle it one of 2 ways - on the car with some 'hub tamer' type of device, or take the knuckle to a dealer/shop. thoughts? Still looks like the oil cooler adapter is weeping, not enough to spot the ground yet....I have read mixed reviews on success at swapping that seal so, I'm gonna wait. a front outer axle boot is ripped so, need to deal with that. I THINK I have an OEM spare axle, if not, I'll try to find a used one, reboot the inner and swap. No clicking yet so, I'm gonna let it wait too.Since it's the outer, an interesting experiment might be to try knocking the Rzeppa joint off and installing a new aftermarket one on my OEM axle...might do that and hold the axle in reserve for the other side or ??? for the money/hassle, used entire half-axle is still probably better. glanced at resevoirs and checked the oil. likely do that again before the trip. -
So the 401 is my rear differential makes a whining noise when brought up to speeds around 20 mph. it also likes to "clunk" at times. The whine I understand would logically come from bad diff fluid, or lack thereof. would pulling a differential off another legacy outback of the same year be a route to go if I don't want to risk draining and replacing fluid to find out its trashed? I would love to hear some opinions!! -
So I have a 1996 Legacy Outback, and it definitely needs to go lower. I have not seen a specific set of coilovers or springs made, probably because the rear load is different. any points in the right direction would be awesome!
