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Showing results for tags 'Parts'.
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Hey y'all! I am removing my bumpers and am wondering if anyone is interested in it. I will have the front marker lights attached. I'll send pics tomorrow when it's brighter out. I am not asking anything for them, just pay shipping. -
I have a 1969 Subaru Sambar truck that I am looking for some parts: -Exterior Door Handle (Driver Side) -Washer Fluid pump and reservoir -
I have a 1986 GL wagon that I need to get rid of. It would make a great parts car. The thing has been reworked and is missing much of its vacuum lines and has a carburetor off of something with an air cleaner from a f150 (I think). But the engine is mostly intact, missing the alternator and coil. (And no I didn't do most of the butchery). The glass is intact except for the cracked windshield and sunroof. I would also have a SPFI EA82 that I want to get rid of. I can get $300 for the GL from a scrap yard. Not sure what the EA82 is worth but I do know oil pumps are getting harder to come by as are other parts. I am in the Seattle area and would like to see these gone this weekend.
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I'm hoping someone can help me... I have a 1997 right hand drive forester with low km, runs like a top with a turbo and auto tranny, plus it has a great interior... I also have a 2003 forester with a blown engine and horrible interior but it steers from the right side, has a stick shift and a better body... Now what I need to know is, are they compatible enough to get one solid rig from them? Basically I want to put the low km turbo engine and the better interior from the 97' into the left-hand drive 03', it would give me a solid engine in front of a standard tranny with a much better interior.. can it be done? -
I met a fella today to look at his stash of mostly Gen1 parts his late father gave him to sell. Nearly each piece is still in genuine packaging , most with part numbers. Such random pieces. Such as two sets of station wagon upper tail and indicator lenses. New, just no packaging. Few shift forks. Clutch fork boot. Front strut repair pieces including bottle of oil. Various needle rollers for gearbox. Five speed gear knob but maybe it is GL5 Gen 2. Odd little clips. Two genuine water pumps that I don't know , have mild steel plate screwed on rear. This stuff is for sale. He is a busy lad with a young family and will try to find time to make a parts list. He has found a website giving him Subaru full details as a guide. If we stay in touch I can list stuff up here. All small parts and packets so should be manageable to post
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It's a '96 Legacy Outback. The connector that connects the window and door lock wiring from the body to the doors is badly damaged by corrosion. We're going to have to either put in a big wad of butt splices, or get replacement connectors. Is there a source for replacement connectors? One side of the connector is labelled D1 in the factory manual schematic, can't remember the other right now, but we'll need both. They are really damaged by corrosion: pins broke off when we pulled them apart, and there is no saving them. -
Had a front end collision on my brat a while back and finally getting around to doing something with it. Couldn’t find a radiator support or a shop that would fix her up so using her for a parts car on my wagon and parting out what i don’t need/can use seems to be the best route. The interior is in surprisingly decent shape, most of the plastic hasn’t deteriorated yet. I’ll check this thread regularly or message me about parts and I’ll shoot prices back. In the central California area so keep in mind the shipping and time to remove some of her. Interior is already started but body parts and others might take some time to get
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Hey all, FNG here. My daughter inherited a 1995 Legacy L from my son and the struts are shot. It bounces so bad I won't let her drive it. My problem is I can't find a full set of loaded struts anywhere. Struts are no problem but I want springs, mounts, and all. Is there a reason no one seems to offer these or am I just to dumb to find them? I'm not interested in anything that will screw up the geometry and cause tire wear. Thanks! -
Need both front fenders for a 1st gen brat, the rougher the better. Not looking for mint. Rusted, dented, paint fade would be great -
I am looking for a 2 barrel intake manifold and carburetor for my 82 Brat. I rebuilt the original one barrel with a fualty kit, bad acelator pump. I would like to switch to the 2 barrel. Are there any 2 barrel adaptors for a one barrel manifold or a different one barrel carb I could subsitute. I have been looking on ebay and locally with no success. Please help. -
I may or may not have been drifting around in some snow when I hit a curb inevitably screwing the control arm and leading rod. Ofcourse with my luck 89' GL control arms are a discontinued part. If anyone has a parts GL or any car that has a control arm compatible with mine and is willing to sell it to me I'd be immensely grateful.
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My 2006 Subaru Outback expired yesterday--broke down on the side of the road amid a huge spill of oil under the engine block. Have no idea what went wrong...my ex was driving it, I wasn't in the car and she's not the most clinical in terms of observing symptoms just before a car goes to that great garage in the sky. The oil was not overdue to be changed...cold weather, maybe? Anyway, this car has been nothing but a headache in the three years I've owned it so I'm happy to move on. But I'm interested in seeing if I can get value for the parts, which I can then apply to the down payment of another Subaru (a more recent one!)...I've never done this before and am a complete newbie. Is it possible to get value for parts from a car that is no longer operational? What do I need to consider? Thanks, Joe -
I may need to replace my clutch plate soon. The clutch would disengage barely enough with the clutch pedal to the floor. I adjusted the clutch cable so it is now possible to press the clutch pedal to he floor put the transmission into reverse without hearing the clashing of gears, but... accelerating with the clutch fully engaged, it looks like the clutch slips. The RPM rise at full throttle without the expected corresponding acceleration. I last did this job on a Gen 2 Subaru in 1989! I think I can do it again. Please, I would like advice on... Where to buy parts, including the insert to position the clutch plate What other jobs should I do on the engine, as it will be out of the car, and easy to work on? mkoch -
Hey all! Loving the group here. Just picked up an 1989 GL Wagon from my neighbor for $60... Sat for 9 years. Actually quite clean (but thats besides the point.) After scouring the forums here Ive pretty safely eliminated the fuel pump relay and other miscellaneous issues as my problem. Was able to show 12v (ish) at the harness to the fuel pump when cranking but the pump will not function. Therefore I am looking at replacement pumps! Anyone have any experience with this? http://www.jcwhitney.com/p3095726/sku-12288747.jcwx?TID=gglpla&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIn_K7mcrB1wIVSjwbCh3SNALtEAkYAiABEgJx1fD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds Its the Autobest F4323. Says it does not fit my specific application... but looks identical to the factory unit. Any help would be great! NO way am i dropping $150 plus on a pump for a $60 car.
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HI, I was wondering if any could tell me if the 2005 Subaru Impreza base model wagon body style is the same as the 2007. I need to replace the two passenger side doors and the rear bumper so i was wondering if i take these parts of the 2005 model if I will be able transfer them to the 2007 model. Any information on this subject would be super helpful Thankss -
Hope I am posting this in the right area, I got a little confused with the marketplace, long time lurker here, rarely a poster... I am in Sandpoint, ID I need to sell my brats, and their related parts. My health is deteriorating, and this is now to big of a task for me. I had intended to pull the front from the silver one, and put it on the blue one and have a conplete, titled, brat, but I can no longer. Blue one has front damage, does not go past crossmember mount on the frame, silver has a rear panel cut out, but a good front. Also comes with 92 Wagon Shell, fuel injection harness and parts, no engine or trans, with interior, and title. Many hard to find parts, front adjustable struts, fancy chrome side bars, fwd rear arm assemblies, some jump seat parts, carbs, linkage, exhaust, switches, knobs, grilles, badging, alternators, air cleaners (both styles), rear window options, And more. There are even some random Chevy sbc parts included, because they are in the way. Does not come with engine and transmission, unless you talk real nice, and are pretty dang close to my asking price. Please don't ask for parts, I need to get it gone. I went and took pictures of what people were looking for on here, should be on the advert on CL shortly. Thank you, https://spokane.craigslist.org/pts/6117458598.html $1000 or Best Offer, worst I can do is say No. -Charlie -
Hi everyone -
Excited to take part in some car talk www.bamwholesaleparts.com
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My beloved 81 has been parked behind the barn for 15 years. Was running when I parked it. Life went on and she has been ignored. Would rather see her go to more use than the junkyard. Will sell parts if no one is interested in the entire car by March 1. There is rust underneath otherwise everything is straight. Crack in windshield. I am in the Dayton Ohio area.
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I'm a new owner of a silver 1991 Subaru 4x4 wagon EA82 so I had reason to go down to the scrapyard and pick up small things that needed attention. I wanted to let folks know about some parts available if they have become rare and expensive where you live. I was looking for Nissan Maxima alternators (they have a bunch) Honda springs and 4-runner shocks. (For full disclosure, I am in no way affiliated of have interest in the business of Upullandpay) Here's what I found: 1983 L Line complete car <--- I was 'eye-ballin' this one for the H/L pumpkin 1984 BRAT manual complete car I think it had two stock rims available 1988 Justy 1990 Legacy x3 1992 Loyale automatic sedan complete car (analogue dash) minus front grill and front corner blinkers / indicators 1992 Legacy 1993 Justy Ignore the rest of these as this is posted in the 80's section... but these are there too. 1993 Legacy x2 1994 Legacy 1995 Legacy x2 1996 Legacy x2 1997 Legacy x2 1999 Legacy 1999 Forester 2002 Forester 2005 Baja sport 2001 Outback x2 one was a LLBean model 2002 Outback 2003 Outback limited 2004 Outback Impreza: 1993, 1995 x2, 1999, 2002, and 2007 Costs: http://upullandpay.com/colorado-springs/part-prices/ -
I have 3 b16 e71 motor parts and not exactly sure what they are or what they are worth. My Dad was a Subaru mechanic most of my young life and has many parts for older Subaru's. I also have a box of 17 inner DOJ and outer CVJ Axle with 17 containers of Axle grease. I would like to sell these. My Mom is a widow and a good Christian woman and I need someone that will be honest with me what they are worth. I cant figure out how to uploading pics, message me for pics moore45455@aol.com or on facebook
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I'm not very familiar with cars so I was looking for help on identifying an engine part. I was driving this afternoon and saw some smoke coming out of my hood so I opened the hood and saw a fluid leak near the bottom of the engine. It looks like a part tore and something came leaking out. It's near the passenger side towards the back of the engine. Can you help me ID it?
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Hello, My family and I have recently moved to a Saskatchewan, Canada from Manitoba, Canada for work. To register our 2001 Legacy Wagon (241,000km) here it needed a safety, I took it in today and it failed for a rusted out bumper, leak between the catalytic converters and rusted through on a spot in the wheel well. Not to mention a cracked power steering belt and leak in the system apparently. The place has a good reputation and doesn't do body work themselves so I don't think they're taking me for a ride. I'm going to talk to a couple body shops tomorrow and see how much the body work would costs as that's outside of my skill set. I don't know if I'm looking at $500 or $5,000. The power steering stuff I could probably do myself but that seems to be the least of the issues. If the cost is high enough I'll be looking for a new Subaru, a sad thing as this is the first car I've ever owed! Should I be able to convince my wife to let me park it in the back yard for parts, would anyone be able to tell me what the newest year Legacy is that has a really high compatibility parts wise with a 2001 Legacy Wagaon? Or, for that matter, other Subarus...not sure if the Forester or something uses a lot of the same parts. Thank you! -
98 OBW w/ 2.2 240K miles The back story. Three years and 5K miles ago I performed significant exhaust repair. I replaced the rear catalytic converter, O2 sensor, center pipe and muffler all due to rust. I purchased the parts off the internet. All of them were aftermarket. I could not get things bolted together tightly so I did end up at a local exhaust shop that tightened things up for me including extended the center pipe for a $100. I am writing this up to provide some encouragement when things go bad and to provide all of the parts that will fit perfect without any trips to the shop. If I had to take this to the shop I probably would have sold the car as-is due to the cost of the repair Present day Nov 2015. I thought this would be a 5 minute $5 fix. I had a leak where the Y-pipe meets the head. I proceeded to unbolt the y-pipe with the impact wrench and snapped an exhaust stud. I was able to remove the other three with nut and stud as one piece. They were fused together due to rust. Now I needed the exhaust out of the way. Unbolting the y-pip from the front cat is not worth the pain of working on your back so I pulled down the entire exhaust for a good inspection. Things just got worse from here. One broken exhaust stud in the block. Rear stud driver side. (worst one to snap) The y-pipe head flanges where rusted out. I could see black exhaust trails flowing down the head. The three year old non-oem replacement catalytic converter (Walker 16090) had advanced rust issues on the flanges and the hanger was half rusted out. (I purchased this off Amazon and it had a 5 year warranty). They replaced it without any issue. Unable to remove generic O2 Sensor (BOSCH 15726) from the catalytic converter The three year old non-oem center pipe had a huge hole on the top of the resonator. Could not find any receipts for this one. Removing the exhaust stud There are many tricks to get this done. I had no access to welding equipment. I did not even bother with the EZ out tools because there was no way I was getting more torque then what was available before the bolt head snapped off. 1) Get a new hack saw blade and wrap one side with a towel so you can hold it comfortable. Use oil and cut the stud flush with the head if it is not already thatway. 2) Center punch the stud 3) Drill a pilot hole using a ¼ Colbalt drill bill. Drill to the depth that the other empty stud holes are at. You can measure this by dropping in the drill bit in an empty hole and wrapping tap around the bit as a marker. DO NOT DRILL TOO DEEP. 4) Now drill the hole for a second time using a 5/16 Cobalt drill bit. I used a DeWalt DWA1220 and it cut like butter. 5) Now it is time to tap the hole. I used an IRWIN 10mm – 1.25 that picked up off eBay. THIS IS A CRITICAL TIME. You need to do this by hand. Since I broke the stud located in the worst spot I had to put the tap into ¼ 12 inch extension and then insert the extension into the hand tool. I will include a picture of this. At most I was able to turn the tap 1/16 of an inch before I had to pull it out and blow the metal shavings off with compressed air and re-oil the tap. This entire process from step 1 took me 6 hours over the course of a week to complete. Do not lose faith here. This is very slow going. If you break the drill bit or the tap in the stud hole you will need a new head. Careful work here is worth it. Do the math. I also chased the other three holes. I was very surprised to see all of the shavings that came out. Cover everything in anti-seize I went with new OEM studs and nuts instead of the old fused stud/bolt that I pulled off. For $20 I thought it was worth going new. The exhaust will go on exactly as it was taken off. When it comes to exhaust parts I am generally ok with aftermarket except the gaskets used between the y-pipe and the head. Use OEM. This is just my experience. This parts list worked perfectly for my 98 Subaru Outback with 2.2 engine. The 2.2 engine is a single port exhaust. If you have the 2.5 you have dual port exhaust on the head and will need a different Y-pipe and head exhaust gaskets. Parts List (1) Y-pipe Part# 2100-58201-2. Manufacture: AUTOPART International - eBay (2) Gasket between Y-Pipe and Engine. Part# 44011AC020. Manufacture Subaru - eBay (1) Gasket between Y-Pipe and front catalytic converter. Part# 2107-00288. Manufacture: AUTOPART International – Came with the y-pipe (2) Gasket between front and rear catalytic converter. Between center pipe and muffler Part# 31388. Manufacture: Walker - Amazon (1) Flex joint donut gasket between rear catalytic converter and center pipe. Part# 31697. Manufacture: Walker - Amazon (1) Spring Bolt Kit used to connect center pipe to rear catalytic converter. Part# 35412. Manufacture: Walker - Amazon (1) O2 Sensor for rear catalytic converter. Part# 15726. Manufacture BOSCH - Amazon (1) Rear catalytic converter. Part# 16090. Manufacture Walker. (Warranty replacement for me) - Amazon (4) Exhaust Studs. Part# 800910550. Manufacture Subaru - eBay (4) Exhaust Stud Bolts. Part# 902370029. Manufacture Subaru - eBay The parts total was $255. I have 10 hours labor in this job. If I had a shop complete this work I am guessing the total would have been $1,000 to $1,400. -
Hello. I'm new here making my first post I just bought a 1995 Legacy to replace my 2000 Outback that's having head gasket issues for the third time in three years. Anyway, the new one has some issues that I was curious about. First, it needs a new alternator. Can I use the one that's in the Outback or will I need to buy one? Second, the Legacy is having minor overheating issues. As in it starts heating up when I go up hills, but the needle never tops out and it will cool down once I'm over the hill. Please please tell me this is an easy fix. I'll scream if I end up with another head gasket issue.
