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Showing results for tags 'Power Steering Pump'.
Found 6 results
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My PowerSteering (PS) pump bearing showed signs of going bad with a ticking steel on steel noise especially in cold weather. Now I got one from a donor car but of course to the same model same engine number the pump is slightly different (only mine is 9 months newer). (mine is last BP 2009 OBW series EU). The main housing of the pump looks exactly the same. But then: 1. The one piece where the piping connects with the elbow has a different angle, pointing more forward. I was thing to just undo the screw and use the elbow one I have on car now. 2. The other piping connector is more a mystery, mine has the banjo bolt directly on the housing, but here seems a nut is there. Can i just remove that nut? and then put my current banjo on the housing. Or, do I have to put the banjo on top of this nut (seems to fit) Then the bracket that holds the cover is bend (donor had to hood damage, ran into a trailer after it was rear-ended), but can easily transfer my own as well. Will this work?
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Hello, I have yet another question. This issue stared today and don't know how to tackle it. I have a 2012 Subaru Legacy 2.5l Premium that I purchased used. Every time I move the steering wheel either left or right it make a horrible noise and I'm afraid it may be something serious. I replaced the fluid and bled the system turning the steering wheel end-to-end and also used a vacuum pump to remove any remaining air but that did not help. Any advice you can provide will be greatly appreciated. Please watch the video to have a better idea of what I'm talking about. -
Can I use a power steering pump from a 97 outback on a 99 Forester?? It has same bolt pattern the housing on the 97 (not the canister the main housing) just looks a little smaller..pulley and where hoses hook up are the same wondering if it will work on my Forester as my Forester just started turning hard
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Hi, I have a 1997 Legacy wagon that had a leaky power steering pump. I replaced the seals with a gates 348414 kit and now the pump is dry. Now, unfortunately, the pump is no longer working. I did notice that the small internal o-ring (the one in the same area as the large o-ring) seemed a little big when I put it in. Could that be the problem? The pump is not making any noise and the car is running fine otherwise. It seems that the power steering fluid isn't circulating. Any ideas? Thanks. -
Ok, so had to stop driving the OBS Tuesday due to the do coolant loss, which is going out the reservoir and not the tailpipe. Yes, blown head gasket. So, starting tomorrow afternoon/evening I'm going to pull the engine and start work. I'm trying to first make sure I have everything, and second see what i should and should not do along with a few other questions. What I have for parts: Full Engine Gasket Set; Fel-Pro Head Gaskets (pair); Complete Timing Belt Kit w/ WP, Idlers, and Tensioner; TYC Radiator, Camshaft Sensor (probably don't need it but I have it); new o-ring PS Pump resevoir; new o-ring AC Low Pressure line; Separator Plate (metal); Tube of Subaru RTV I'm also picking up a used set of fans to fix the AC Fan the PO proceeded to cut and hot wire to the battery (yeah, don't ask). I know the AC Works, just leaks right there at that O-Ring (recently charged and tested, until it leaked out all the freon). Now for the questions: 1.) On the engine itself what all gaskets/seals should I replace while its out? This kit appears to have included everything. I already planned to do the head gaskets, valve cover gaskets, and remove/clean and reseal the oil pan along with the Valve Seals and the Camshaft seals and the front oil pump seal. 2.) Is there any way to test the rods/bearings on a Subaru Engine without disassembly? I know I can see them after removing the pickup tube assembly, but not sure there is enough room to move them and check for a bad bearing. 3.) Based on these questions, what's the largest & smallest torque I'm going to need? I can't find my torque wrenches (moved recently) and may have to buy new. I want to try and limit cost so if I know the lower and upper variance I can try and find 1 or 2 torque wrenches to cover it all instead of the 3 I can't find right now (had 1/4", 3/8", and 1/2" Pittsburgh ones). 4.) While I am in here other than cleaning out the engine bay completely (including cleaning the subframe) what else would be smart to do? -
I just bought a 4-Door 1984 GL Wagon with 164,xxx thousand miles. it runs and drives well, save for the lack of rear differential mount bushings making a racket in the rear end, the engine surging because the distributor is very sloppy, and the oil dripping from the power steering pump. The power steering pump seems to be leaking between it and the reservoir, so I believe I should be able to take it apart and re-seal it, correct? The distributor just needs to be replaced. The bushings I cannot locate for the life of me so I am looking for suggestions on where to get them or if I should make them. The owner I bought it from had just replaced the shocks and struts all the way around, the starter, got new tires, new seats, rebuilt the tranny, and replaced all seals and gaskets for the engine. This is the first Subaru I've owned, and auto parts stores don't seem to have the parts I need to replace, so where do you guys suggest I look? And what else, if anything, should I look into on this car that could be a problem in the future? Thanks for any feedback.
