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Showing results for tags 'Reverse'.
Found 8 results
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I did some searching and couldn't find much. This problem really has me scratching my head. 1982 GL Brat 200K plus on the body When the Left turn signal is on, it blinks normally as it should, however the "Stop Lamp" light will blink on the dash in time with the signal light. When the Left turn signal is on, and the Brake is applied: The LR taillight alternates between turning on/off the Lamp and the Reverse light individually, and the time of the signal light on the dash is about half the speed. It completely forgets to flash the indicator light instead. Having both Brake applied and turn signal on, the "Stop Lamp" light on the dash shuts off. The right side is unaffected and has no problems with the signal under braking or not. I have checked fuses, checked bulbs, and even swapped out the entire LR taillight assembly from another Brat; same result with the slow alternation of Brake light and Reverse light. And just FYI the reverse lights work normally when in reverse. Anybody out there have a similar problem? I'm thinking I have a bad ground or a short somewhere... -
On our 2005 Outback, our backup lights have been collecting water during rainstorms. Usually it appears as heavy condensation or fog, but after a big rain when I open the tailgate hatch and remove the backup light bulb, water runs out of the assembly. So far it has not shorted out the electrical outlet. I searched the forums but had a hard time finding exactly this problem on this car, so I just want to provide some info and couple helpful links for someone down the road. This is not a difficult repair with basic tools, but do allow at least a couple hours, more like 3 or 4 if you take your time. It took me a long time because once I got the tailgate bezel off (the part where the backup lights are), there was a lot of clean up to do - and of course you want to take your time on a careful reassembly. Body panel clip removal tools are very handy, but not essential. Harbor Freight has a cheap set. I was careful, but still managed to break one of the clip anchors and two bolts. This necessitated getting creative with a different screw and anchor, which took a while to figure out. Both of the breaks were caused by the nut/bolt being rusty, and not loosing. You will need some silicone sealant for the lights themselves, and 3M Strip-Calk, which is about $17. The Strip-Calk is specifically made for assembling body parts and light housings, etc. This was originally described to me as, "Dumdum comes in 12 inch long string sections (like the very thin red licorice)". I also used a lot of 409 and paper towels getting everything nice and clean. I have noticed in the past that most leaks are associated with a build up of dirt and grim in hidden or hard to reach areas. This first video covers removing the interior panels. You do not need to remove the long horizontal panel above the window. Also, on the rubbery weather striping, the small white clips popped right out, which is better than separating them from the strip as Tony does. I taped the strip back in place so it would not be damaged if the tailgate closed. You need to unclip one electrical connector, which on my car was kind of a pain. In this second video, Bruce removes all those interior panels, but also the tailgate outer bezel with the reverse light assemblies. If you only have time for one video, watch this one. I think Bruce misses a set of nuts on each side of the tailgate bezel, far left and right. They are covered by skinny black panels, which I only partially removed (I could not budge the visible clip, but the hidden ones came right off). If you have removed all the 8mm nuts inside the tailgate and the bezel does not budge, look for those other four nuts. Besides using the Strip-Calk on each side of the light foam and around all the bolt hole locations, I put a strip along the rubber edge below the window, wear the bezel makes contact. That is the first place for water to enter under the bezel recesses. I used the silicon to seal all around the light assembly, where the clear part meets the black assembly. That should about do it. Time for a beer. -
I have a 2010 Outback with 145,000 miles. In October the throw-out bearing failed requiring a clutch repair. a week following the repair the transmission would pop out of reverse. My mechanic determined that a replacement transmission was needed. Weighing the cost options (new, used, rebuild) I went with a used transmission (with a warrantee). The replacement transmission worked for a week then developed the same problem. I am on my 2nd replacement transmission and now after 2 months it pops out of reverse. What is causing this or is being overlooked here? -
So it sounds like the noise is coming from under my car. So i hit google for a bit and i think it might be my center carrier bearing? It might have dried out? Can i grease it with wheel bearing grease? I'll make a video tomorrow. -
Hey everyone. I just purchased a 1999 Outback wagon, and one of the issues to sort out is an issue with reverse (5-speed manual). When you shift into reverse, it takes a little more force than normal to engage it, or it will grind and/or pop out when you let up on the clutch. Once engaged, reverse works fine and it does not pop out of gear. The bigger problem is when you try to shift out of reverse- going from reverse to neutral takes considerable force. The shifter feels great otherwise. All forward gears are fine, the shifter isn't loose/sloppy, no vague gear changes, etc. The clutch also feels good. The previous owner reports it has been this way since the owner before him, and it has made it a year and six or seven thousand miles like this... He just got used to it. Any thoughts on where I might look first to track this one down? -
Hi guys, I'm a longtime lurker but couldn't find an answer in the reg. threads. Recently I went to put my 2007 legacy in reverse by going all the way right and down (as should be done), however, I heard a popping sound and now i can no longer go directly into reverse vertically but can go in diagonally from the center neutral position. Has anyone had this problem or could point me in the right direction? -
Hello, I just got a 1995 Legacy. I had to take this poor car away from my parents, I just could not see her sit around and be a pile of junk as my parents tend to do with cars with minor problems. I fixed the wheel bearing last night. Now I am working on the transmission. It does not currently go into reverse, It is an automatic transmission. First, anyone else come by this problem. and second, does anyone know a good online dealer, or dealer in general of transmissions, I would like to not spend over 1000 on a transmission for it. Thats if it is not fixable for about the same price. -
Hello, I have a 2002 Legacy L Wagon 5spd with 195k on it and it's in great shape, runs strong and I love it. I have put many hours into this car mostly in preventative maintenance (keeping the rust away is yearly task up here in SaltLand!). But anyway... my issue: A month or so ago I was pulling into a camping spot in some slightly off road conditions (which I do not normally do, I know it's AWD, but it's not a Jeep!). The place I was pulling into had shallow ruts and it was a very tight turn, and I had the steering wheel cranked all the way to the right and attempted to cross over the ruts and she stalled out because the front bumper cover hit a rock and I was being easy on the throttle. So, I was going to change my angle of approach and I backed up and tried again, and again, with the wheel pinned to the right, she shuttered, bucked and stalled out (remember, it's a manual transmission and I wasn't hammering the throttle). So, I then gave up on this way into the camp site and when I went to take off in first gear there was like this crunch, crunch sound coming from the front end. It was unmistakably a metal sound, so I thought maybe I was hitting a rock, so I got out of the car and looked under it to look for obstructions; and there was none. So I just shrugged my shoulders and continued on down the road. I started hearing like a "clack, clack" sound when I would let off on the throttle, and I thought maybe I broke a tooth on a CV joint or something. Later I noticed a whining when I got up to about 30 miles an hour, mostly when I let off on the throttle. It seems to go away when I give it throttle or am over 40mph. I showed a mechanic friend of mine the problem and he said not to worry about it... so I haven't been... UNTIL THE OTHER DAY! .... I was backing down a friend's dirt driveway and maybe going a little fast for being in reverse, but all of a sudden it just sounded like someone dropped a bag of ball bearings into my gearbox! It didn't entirely bind up tight (there were no skid marks) but it slowed way down, and as soon as this happened I threw the clutch in.... When I proceeded to back up, it seemed find again... It's been a week now, and it's still going, but has the whining and clicking sounds like it has since I broke whatever I broke. I will not be gunning it in reverse again! My question: what did I break, how can I fix it and how much longer do I maybe have until I will be without a ride? Has anybody else ever heard of anything like this or experienced anything like it? Any insight or direction would be appreciated. Thanks! Chris
