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Hey all, got a bit of a problem. I have an 05 WRX STI that I got used with 70,000 miles on it. Owner said the engine had been swapped with a 20,000 mile unit. I have owned the car almost a year now. Mods it came with: Invidia cat back exhaust. Cobb intake Grimspeed turbo solenoid AOS of unknown brand Aluminum mishimoto radiator Cobb accessport running stage 1 tune of unknown origin. Mods I installed: Killerbee oil pickup Prosport oil pressure and voltage gauges. I run Castrol 5W30 premium full synthetic. Now on to the problem. I was driving home one night, about 12 miles. I was driving spiritedly, but definitely not thrashing it. I pull into a gas station at the edge of the town I live in and notice smoke from under the hood. There is oil all over the passenger side strut tower and on the turbo and down pipe. I check the oil level, and it's right on the money. I decide to drive it the 8 blocks home and keep a close eye on the oil pressure. Oil pressure is fine all the way home, I open the hood and check again. There doesn't appear to be any additional oil on the strut tower or surrounding area. I have thought for awhile that it gets hotter under the hood than it ought to, but my temp gauge never climbs past the third mark up that's before the red zone. I have yet to pull it apart and look in depth, in the meantime anyone have any ideas as to what may have happened? My current theory is that the banjo bolt for the oil line on top of the turbo went bad. As always, thanks in advance.
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Concerning the Cobb issue with taking Accesstuner offline i have been working on compiling versions of ATR for helping others out. So far i have ATR for 02-03 wrx, 04 Wrx, 05 WRX, 04 Sti and 15 Wrx. If anyone has any other download they wanna share or help distribute let me know. I am putting together a database for all. Pm me for a link. Michael Rock
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- Cobb
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Hey all. I recently did the first oil change on my new to me 05 STI. It did alright during the circulation after the change, but my low oil pressure light came on on my way home from work. From what posts I can find, I'm guessing a piece of sludge or carbon got dislodged and jammed the pressure relief valve open. I believe that valve is on the oil pump itself? Can anyone confirm that? If it is, how easy would it be to correct? Can I replace that valve, or does it have to be the whole pump? I'm currently in the process of installing an oil pressure gauge, so I can verify what pressure is actually there. Also, I can't think of why it would, but could this have been caused in any way by the fact that I changed it from 5W30 to 5W40 during the change? Thanks in advance.
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Hey all. Last week I bought a 2005 WRX STI with 67000 miles. Now I am discovering several things that didn't get discovered during the test drive and the owner didn't mention. It has a Cobb tuning access port that was running a "custom" tune. That tune supposedly added 30 HP, but it killed any and all fuel mileage and was causing a bank 1 too rich code. I reflashed it to the Cobb factory economy tune, now I have 7 different check engine codes. Evap system error/PCV system error and the rest are low sensor voltage errors. It would not let me do the realtime map swaps while it was flashed to the custom tune. Now that it is flashed to a Cobb tuner factory map I can realtime any map other than the custom map. It has a Cobb short cold intake, a Mishimoto radiator, Grimspeed turbo solenoid controller, and Ohlin race coilovers. It also has a clicking noise from the tranny. It is worst in second gear, but can also be heard in first, neutral and reverse. It is absent when the clutch is disengaged and you sit still, but you can hear it faintly when rolling to a stop with the clutch in. I discovered much to my anger and disappointment that the tranny had been being run with almost no oil in it for several hundred miles after they had a shop install a new clutch. Currently my biggest worry is to get the ECU squared away. I want it to run on something other than their custom tune without throwing half a dozen engine codes. All of my subi experience has been from restoring my BRAT and XT, only 80s subis. This is a bit new for me. Thanks in advance.
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Ok... I'm new. I don't know much about much, I have a lot to learn, and I broke my car trying to fix it. It's time to ask for help. My name is Katherine, I have a 2000 Subaru Outback with an EJ251AXAWL engine and a TZ1A4ZCABA 4-speed auto transmission. My goal is to put a naturally aspirated EJ207 in my car with a 5-speed manual transmission, and to replace the Brakes, Suspension Intake and Exhaust. I want to say that this Outback has a sentimentality to it, this is to say that starting with a "better subaru" is not an option, this car will be the one that has these modifications, no other, and i won't sell it or scrap it. That said I do desire honest feedback on how and what to do to her. Currently my Outback has a list of problems. 1- the transmission slips and needs replaced, this is what prompted this post and will be the first priority on my list of modifications and repairs. 2- both tie rod ends need replaced as well as the cv axles, this prompted my desire to replace the entire suspension. 3- the air conditioning doesn't work, i replaced o-rings but have not yet recharged the system so i don't yet know it the compressor is bad or the lines. 4- there is body rust on both rear fenders, worse on the passenger side.
- 14 replies
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- sti
- manualswap
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Does anyone know the overall width of an EA82 power steering rack WITHOUT tie rod ends installed?
- 23 replies
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If you’ve followed the sport of rally over the last twenty years, there’s a good chance you’ve heard the name Richard Burns. He is by far one of the most notable and successful World Rally drivers of the 90’s and 2000’s. From 1999 through 2001, Burns was competing in the World Rally Championship under the Prodrive-run, Subaru World Rally Team, where he piloted the Impreza WRC to an overall victory in the 2001 Championship. Known to be one of the smoothest and most methodical drivers of his time, he continued to compete in WRC under the Peugeot flag, however he was one of few people to drive in one of the most iconic rally cars ever. The name “Subaru” has been synonymous with rally around the world for many years and is probably one of the most iconic names, not only in American rally, but rallies around the world as well. Nearly every rally championship worldwide has Subarus competing (and dominating) the classes they run in. DirtFish owner and rally fan, Steve Rimmer, has acquired one amazing collection of legendary rally cars over the years. One of which is a beautiful “World Rally blue” 1999 Subaru Impreza WRC99 adorned with one of the most classic and memorable liveries to ever be on the side of a Subaru. Built by Prodrive in the UK and never actually raced, the car was a gift to Burns as a “congrats and thanks” for winning the 2001 World Rally Championship driver’s title. Sadly, he only owned the car for about two years before a brave battle with brain cancer took his life. After the Burns’ passing in 2005, the car became a part of his estate. The ownership of the estate was then transferred to the Richard Burns Foundation, which was setup by some of Burns’ closest friends and colleagues with the goal of helping people who are affected by serious illnesses and injuries. Rimmer purchased the car from the foundation, giving them liquidity, which helped fund and establish grants that are awarded by them; it also allowed them to hire staff to raise further funds. This meticulously prepared 22B was built to the same specifications as the car Burns piloted in the WRC and is very well equipped, even by today’s standards. The engine that helps propel the car’s 2700 lbs is the quintessential EJ20 boxer engine still found in Subarus today. The engine block and heads are milled from aluminum, each cylinder has 4 valves and the cars is equipped with an IHI turbo charger, producing 300 BHP at 5500 rpm and a massive 480 lbs/ft of torque at 4000 rpm. In laymen’s terms; this is one quick car with phenomenal acceleration. The drivetrain is very similar to what would be found in today’s top-level rally cars: it has a Prodrive 6-speed sequential gearbox with computer-controlled hydraulic front, rear and center differentials. The Prodrive XTC McPherson struts and shock absorbers, at the time, were the best that money could buy and helped spawn the technology you see in not only rally cars today, but everyday road-going cars as well. With the speed and cornering covered, Prodrive didn’t skimp on the braking system either and equipped it with 4-pot AP Racing calipers and vented rotors. Although this car has never actually competed on a rally stage, it is an important car in rally today and a testament to three rally icons; Richard Burns, Subaru and Prodrive. Through the years it has aided in continuing Burns’ legacy through the foundation created in his name by helping people afflicted with serious illnesses and injuries. Head over to our Rally Media page to get this amazing car as your wallpaper! Article by: Trevor Wert (DirtFish) Photos by: Justin Fitch (DirtFish)
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I'd like to say hello to everybody on this message board! We are from a small town dealership in Southern New Hampshire and we are excited to get to know everybody from the forum! I'd like to offer everybody here in this forum a special coupon to our online parts catalog! If you're interested in that feel free to shoot us a message and we'd love to help you out! Thank you everybody for taking the time to read this! We look forward to talking to all of you in the message boards! -Austin
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Hi guys. I need some help. I've swapped and ej20g in to my Subaru pickup. I've had it running fine but recently its not started. It was running fine one day, the next day it didn't so I made a different earth for it and I started straight away. I then left it for another day. Not touched anything and it won't start. So I removed the new earth and it fired up again. Running brilliantly Left it another day and it won't start at all. It cranks but I have no spark. Has anyone got an answer for this. Ibe already swapped the crack sensor over. I'm hoping it's just a relay that was intermittently broken and now has completed given up. Any help with this is appreciated. Thanks
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Hey guys need some guidance here. I own a 99 subaru forester s and the windshield wipers don't work properly. The wipers Park to far both ways so they slam into the edge of the window on both the bottom and side. They do not do this everytime they go up and down but often. And each time they go in their rotation they stop at different points on the windshield. This also only happens when the windshield is wet. If dry the wipers stop normally maybe even a bit not far enough. The more wet the windshield is the more the wipers slap against the edges of the window. Ive already take off the panel to inspect the wiper linkage and cannot find any issues with it. The arms have no issues either and the arms lock into place when bolted on as well. What else could be the issue? Anyone else had similar issues? I'd be very appreciative if someone could share some expertise on this topic and move me in the proper direction to fixing the issue. Thanks
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I own a 99 subaru forester s and am in need of a solution to my worn out seats. I have the beige leather heated seats in the car and the front seats have cracking and tears in them. What can I do? I've seen leather repair kits but for the matching dye and everything it's 70+ dollars and I'm skeptical about the results. Is their any way I could get replacement oem seats for the car or is there any good aftermarket seats out there that would fit and match nicely? I'm not looking for race bucket seats just some comfortable daily driving seats. Any suggestions are appreciated
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I have a 2011 STI Hatch with an Accessport, SF Intake, and Turbo Exhaust. It sat for about a month and a half while I was away and when I came back to drive it down the east coast, the battery was dead so I got a jump to start it and head south from Rhode Island. I was noticing some pretty awful performance and gas mileage over the 15 hour trip. I averaged about 16 mpg and was not getting the performance I had gotten before. I thought it might be from the fuel sitting so long, but I filled up the tank several times over the trip. My intake filter is in rough shape, so I plan on replacing it, but I wasn't sure if that was the problem. Should I uninstall and reinstall the Accessport since the battery died? Not sure where to go from here. I'm fairly new to the mods. Any help would be appreciated!
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Thinking about picking up a cheap 1998 Impreza for the soul purpose of making it a 22b and fast... But I'm looking for some input as in prices and what all I'd have to go through to make this happen
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- 22b conversion
- Wrx
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Hello everyone! We here at NWRallySports would just like to say hello to this new forum community! Although we are new to this forum, we are no strangers in the Subaru community. Our technicians have over a decade in Subaru specialty and we host all the greatest brands and products in our online store. You can view our products at NWRallySports.com and feel free to follow our Facebook page and other social media outputs! Our owner just got done with a '91 Legacy Turbo build that you can view and we will be covering a lot more of our builds and customer rides this summer! Also, we will be producing new content such as our "Ask a tech" threads and new shop videos to let you guys drool over these cars as much as we do! If you have any questions on what we can do for you, or you cannot find a specific part you are looking for, email or call to contact us and we will be happy to help! Cheers, NWRS
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Heard the STi interior can fit in the RS. Anyone know if that is true, and if so, What year it needs to be?
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New to Subaru, so bare with me. Im buying my buddys wifes 99 2.5 RS coupe. Shes an idiot who ran it till it blew up and now needs a new motor. I have a line on an STi motor and tranny, but not sure if the tranny will fit in the RS. Anyone know if it will fit or what needs to be changed so that it will?
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am trying to find the best fit of sti engine to go into my 03 legacy outback. Any feedback would be much appreciated need a winter project and cant think of anything better.I live in minnesnowta so ill have plenty of time to work on it lol. Thanks for the help!!!
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- sti
- engine swap
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Hi. car was running fine with some bugs to be tuned. It first started when i cleaned the maf and ground points, car was running like crap but no misfire just bad idle that cleared after 3000 rpm later that night i started the car and magically it was all good but i did notice that the car was running very rich, 12-12.5 at idle, i went for a ride and afr was stable at 11-11.2 all the time then after 8 miles suddently misfired and its ran like it was only with 2 pistons. went to the mechanic and they found out that pistons 1 and 3 where off. So we took out the spark plugs and the right side ones were completly black and soaked in gas and the left side were almost like new. No cell, but days before got misfire con cylinder 1,3,4 Later we did this with no result: Changed spark plugs Changed coils Changed maf sensor Checked injector pluse Checked coil with plug for spark Checked timing Checked ground Checked compression (140 psi on all 4) What could possibly be shutting down one side of the engine ? please help beacuse we have no clue. Mods are: wallbro 255 fuel pump ID 1000cc top feed conversion with fuel lines, stock FRP (recently installed) Ks tech big maf short ram itanke Blouch dom 3xtr Gt spec header with invidia turbo back exhaust Big top mount intercooler Ecu reflash Wiseco pistons (recently installed) Manley rods Ported head (recently installed) GSC 272 cams (recently installed) GSC Valves (recently installed) GSC springs and retainers (recently installed) Car was breaking in new pistons, just traveled 20 miles no wot
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Hey everyone from USMB, I have a few sensor questions as to what is what on my '07 2.5I SOHC EJ25. I have a couple pictures attached below. I have them color coated just to make it easier to look through. RED BOX is where the bracket that holds the camshaft position sensor is supposed to go and the cam sensor (and bracket) I have is broken which is shown in GREEN BOX. Lastly, the mystery sensor in BLUE BOX, (I'm guessing could be an oil bypass) I need it because the connector broke off. These parts are located behind the cam pulley on the driver side. I've spent the last couple days trying to research and find the mystery sensor and the bracket for the cam pos. sensor. I'm trying to find out what they are called, and I had no luck so far. I need to buy them so I can get my car running smoothly. of course, I had no problem trying to find the cam sensor itself, but it does not come with the bracket. It would be great to know where I can find these parts and what they're called. Thanks! Pat
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- camshaft sensor
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Hey guys, I need insight. I have a 1980 subaru leone circle headlight model), and i despise the current 1.6L carby, and would really love to make the car a crazy sleeper, with some sort of OLDISH wrx, or wrx STI engine. Can anyone please help me, or has done something like this in the same year model, because i know that the models after the 1980 are very different. please help ASAP
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Hi! im new to this forum, please help! ok so im 16 and i really love subarus.. specifically the 2006-2007 STi models. iv always wanted an STi since i was 12 and now that im older and going farther in life i just need to know certain things. i plan on buying a 2006 or 2007 WRX STi in the future..like when im 20+ years of age. ( please do not ask why i dont like the newer models of them because i just dont lol ) i want to know what kind of yearly salary or job do you think i ( or someone ) would need to be able to pay off an STi? specifically one thats used but still in good condition under 20-25k. give examples.. like a police officer? mechanic? engineer? etc.. or needs atleast 30-50k a year? i just dont know! i know that STi's are more costly to maintain than a WRX but still. please help.. give me details about everything. i do plan on getting mods
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Ok. so I have started back on my RX project again. been really busy with moving and such, she kinda got put on hold. Picked up my new JDM motor and tranny and have slowly been tearing it down to do a re-seal and tighten things up before I drop it in. Pics of my 5-lug swap... Using front end parts from a 99 OBS rear is all XT6. And here is what I have been doing more recently. Not sure if anyone remembers me contemplating dropping a EJ20t into her but atlas I decided not to "settle" for what I didn't really want... SO yeh. here's my new Version 4 JDM EJ20 Sti and tranny... Motor came pretty well complete and I got a smoking deal on it! included the TMIC,harness ecu, turbo timer, and Syms racing Downpipe and header! Now, I could have dropped this motor in and head it running by now but I convinced myself to tear it down and do a complete re-seal of the entire thing. And since im doing that I might as well to the head gaskets and port the heads and intake while im in there. also ordered up a set of ARP head studs. Also powder coating a few things while I have it apart. I'm going to be powder coating everything I can on this guy to keep it looking clean for years to come. ill post more pics of stuff like that as they happen. lots of cleaning left to do, still need to port the heads and intake, waiting for gaskets to arrive (hopefully tomorrow). I've also been getting goodies for this project as funds allow. see such goodies below . B&M Turbo oil cooler. New TMIC next to the JDM IC that came with the motor. Figured I had room for a larger one so.. Why not! New silicone turbo inlet tube and New TMIC Y pipe. Stage 3 6-puck ceramic clutch and 12lb flywheel. should give me nice fast revs! also considering going with a lightened under drive pulley kit. New GFB response BOV. fully adjustable atmo/resirc! So, that's my progress thus far. As I said as funds allow I will be doing more work to it. should be running before to much longer and I will keep everyone posted as things happen.