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Showing results for tags 'Sambar'.
Found 4 results
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I have a 1969 Subaru Sambar truck that I am looking for some parts: -Exterior Door Handle (Driver Side) -Washer Fluid pump and reservoir -
Hello folks, exist somewhere a list with all subaru-transmission codes?? greets bert -
Hey, new to the forum here. I just purchased my first Subaru, actually pair of Subarus. I picked up a couple Subaru Sambar mini trucks from a local rancher. One has the cab wrecked and is for parts (only has about 30,000 miles on it without a title), and the second was seized up and has been sitting for over 5 years. I plan on doing quite a bit of work to the one to make it a decent trail truck and bomb around town vehicle. I did manage to un-seize the engine on the non-parts truck. It does run, but it now lets water freely flow into the oil and smokes like a grassfire. I hope it's just a head-gasket, but the former owner did drive it to the point of seizing. Luckily I have a second engine with low miles on it. We'll see how this project goes. I am quite impressed with the Subaru engineering I see in these little vehicles and hopefully I can get decent advice in this forum.
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Hi all. My name is Magnus and I live in the middle of Sweden. I have a 1985 Subaru Libero (called Columbuss in scandinavia) and I'm having two major problems with it. Most urgent one: The clutch is stuck in it's pressed stage (engine and transmission not connected). This has happend before, and it's not the wire. It's the shaft that pivots the clutch release fork inside the bellhousing that is stuck. Last time, I sloved it by drilling a hole into the bellhousing, heating with a welding torch and thereafter spraying penetratig oil into the hole as i rocked the release lever on the outside until the clutch operated to satisfaction. After that was done, I punched a grease-nipple into the hole, partly to seal the hole, but also to allow one to lube the shaft if the problem ever were to reoccur in the future. Now, the shaft is stuck again and it's negative degrees here (c-grade) which complicates things. I don't have access to a garage, just an electrical socket and my toolbox. My plan is to get a propane torch, heat the bellhousing again, rock the lever and then pump grease in through the nipple, all while the aluminium is still hot. Repeating this a couple of times should fix the problem for a time long enough to move the car to my home (about 55 metric miles). Is this a good plan? The less-urgent one: The car loses power at 30-40% gas, tugs and then hesitates up to speed. I've done most checks that many experienced mechanics have come up with, but still have some things to check: -What's the symptoms on the engines vacuum-reading if the EGR-system works improperly? -The carburetor is a Hitachi HCK-34, a side draft type, that no one ever seem to have heard of. It seems custom built to fit just this specific car model. Does anyone have experience of a carb that uses a twin-atmospheric pressure system? (Pic from workshop manual available upon request.) Thanks in advance. //Magnus.
