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Showing results for tags 'Sensor'.
Found 17 results
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Heya, 1985 Brat 49 State, Hitachi carb. I replaced the Y pipe, which looked original (it had the air heater). It did not have an oxygen sensor. The replacement has one, and I wonder where in the wiring harness it connects. -
This is my collection of measurements of the CTS. temp sensor ohms 14F 7000 - 11500 68F 2000-3000 122F 700-1000 Above are from the FSM. Below are actual measurements. Done at 2 different times, compiled here. The 1990 unit was in a good running engine. The new dealer unit was bought locally, and I made the measurements before installing it to get the extra reference points. measured ohms temp 1990 used new dealer unit 77F - 2390 122F 1154 1098 185F - 400 190F 454 - More measurements from some runs in 2020 - Temps measured with a Fluke62 max+ IR thermometer. Voltages while running, connected to the ECU with a Fluke 77 Multimeter. Ohms after / before, while off, connected to ECU, same meter. temp ohms volts 79F 1108 2.73V - 1130 2.79V 77F 1139 2.81V 193F 259 .680V - 262 .714V - 268 .735V 192F 242 .652V -
Question SPEED ROUND, I need to replace the thermostat on our H6 engine (2012 Outback). That means draining the radiator. How much coolant should I have on hand to refill the radiator / coolant system ? I believe this thermostat is down low, in the lower radiator hose. 2) There are two coolant sensors located right next to each other. In the parts diagrams, the one to the left is 22630 36D, and the one to the right is 22630 30D. The part numbers are very similar. Can I order 22630AA140 for both locations ? It is $10-15 cheaper than the other one, 22360KA140. 3) What is the normal operating temp for the coolant in this engine? Using an OBD tester while driving, I can see that it is 195 to 205 degrees after warmed up good. I am trying to fix CEL engine code P0128. This code is saying the engine is running too cool. Thanks, Craig -
I finally tracked down the oil sensor on our 2012 Outback. On this 6 cylinder engine, it is down low, screwed in just above the oil filter assembly. If I remove the sensor when the engine is full of oil, will it leak all over me and the floor ? Would it be best to do this as part of an oil change, and pull the sensor after draining the oil? The sensor comes with some red sealant on the threads, is that all I need when putting the new one in? Thanks for the input! Craig
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Additional info required: A while ago (like a year or more) there were some threads floating around about O2 sensor voltage readings in the 3+ volt range on diagnostic scanners. I don't recall there being a clear answer as to the reason at the time. I have had some O2 sensor issues recently so I went digging for info and basically found that the reason for the trouble was that I bought the wrong type of sensor. I bought an O2 sensor, when what I needed was an Air/Fuel Ratio sensor. The problem was on a Toyota, but the same principles of how the sensors differ apply to every brand of vehicle. The link below comes from a website we use in school, and has tons more info about various sensors and their functions, as well as dozens of other tech articles that can be useful during diagnosis of a problem. What my issue boiled down to is the ECU was getting a reading of incredibly lean mixture from the O2 sensor. Because on an O2 sensor rich = high voltage and lean = low voltage. but wih an A/FR sensor its the opposite, rich = low and lean =high. The ECU would add more fuel and get a rich voltage back rom the sensor,except the ECU is programmed to read high voltage as lean, even though the sensor was responding as it should. And so the cycle repeats itself until the ECU can no longer adjust, which in this case pegged the Long Term Fuel Trim at 44.5%. But back to the point, if you get oxygen sensor voltage reading in the 3V range on a scanner, its because you have an Air/Fuel Ratio sensor, which gets supplied a reference voltage of 3.3V from the ECU. The sensor then bumps up (if lean) or bumps down (if rich) the return voltage signal back to the ECU. Some ECUs convert scanner output to a normal O2 sensor output voltage to avoid confusion, but not all. Be sure of what you have before purchasing a replacement sensor. http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/h37.pdf -
Hi Everyone, It’s been 2 months now of researching, reading every thread I can, trying, monitoring with no success; I am now totally stuck and don’t see what else I can do to solve my issue, and this is driving me mad ^^ ! I have a Subaru Impreza Hatchback 1998, EJ15 GF1, manual, petrol, with now 190,000 km. Small engine, pretty well maintained, I change all filters and oil every 10k since I have it, the previous owner was taking care of it and I bought it after the cam belt and water pump were changed professionally by a garage., around 170k. So one day (around 187k) I noticed the car smelled a bit like overheating engine. I checked under the bonnet and noticed that the fans were not working. After more in depth checking I noticed that the lower radiator hose was cold and there was no pressure in the radiator. So bought a new thermostat and gasket (original Subaru) and new coolant, tried it with the new one and didn’t change a thing, the damn thing stays closed. Tested both thermostats in hot water, they both work fine. I then tried to run the car without the thermostat, I get good pressure, the coolant is flowing, I could properly burp the cooling system and I could see the radiator was not clogged, but surprisingly the fans still did not turn on. So I bought new temperature sensor and sender and tried again, but nothing changed, the fans don’t turn on. I checked all the fuses, under the steering wheel and under the bonnet, tested the relays with the test wires under the steering wheel and both relays and fans work fine. (I also bypassed the relays with fuses and this turns on the fans, no problem). The very weird thing is that when the thermostat is installed and the engine running, the temperature gauge comes up to the optimal position, slightly below the middle, and stays there, even though the engine keeps heating. I don’t have an infrared thermometer but I can tell by the smell and the heat, and the fact then the thermostat stays closed and fans stay off, that something is wrong and that the engine is too hot. It really smells like overheating engine and the hoses and engine are reeeeally hot. Before this began happening, when it worked well, the fans turned on and off automatically and I could tell when the thermostat opened and closed, it was all fine. I tested all sensors, new and old, with a multimeter and they all work fine, even the thermostats in hot water both open and close correctly. I contacted a mechanic friend who checked everything, he used a pretty strong product to clean the cooling system in case there would be some kind of stop-leak or stuff clogging the system, but nothing, the circuit is clean. I even used a thin brush to try to clean possible depot around the sensor areas, but nothing came out, all is clean… I also cleaned the cooling system with my garden hose, I know it's not recommended but I was out of options, I confirm that water flows through everything and came out clean. (I rinsed with demineralised water several times after this and put new coolant). I feel like I did everything I could, I don’t see what else to do. I am not sure this could be related, but (I think) this began happening the same month that someone tried to steal it, or at least I noticed this cooling issue like a month after. No big issue from these unskilled robbers, who just broke the door handle and damaged the ignition, but it took me like 2 weeks to fix this, but during this time I removed the battery from the car because I could not close it and I don’t have a garage. So the car stayed quite a long time without a battery. I thought this could have done something to the ECU (I have nearly no knowledge about this part of cars) but anyways, this should not impact the thermostat which is a purely mechanic part. So Guys, I don’t knot what else I can do. I am pretty sure that the radiator is fine, I have been driving without a thermostat since, the engine takes longer to heat and the temperature tends to decrease at high speed and increase at idle and low speeds (no fans working, remember) which seem logical to me. Also the heater core seems fine, heat turns on and off, no problem. If you have any idea what might be going on I’d be super keen hearing your opinion, this is getting so frustrating. Cheers guys, thanks for reading ! Oh and it's not a head gasket by the way, already checked, oil and coolant are fine, I changed both.- 41 replies
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Our 2007 Legacy Station Wagon (owned since january 2012) has recently started to give us intermittent rumbling sound/loss of power for 2-4 seconds only intermittently. It is not loud. On a 15 minute drive it may occur 2-6 times. It feels like maybe transmission/axle/all wheel drive related. (Computer or sensor related ?). Our mechanic, who we have had take excellent care of 9 different extended family vehicles over the last 15 years, is somewhat baffled but has experienced this issue himself on test drives. He just did replace the transmission oil in an attempt to resolve the problem and also looking for bits of metal at that time, but not found no bits of metal and said that the result often indicates that there is probably on transmission issue. We recently experienced a failing transmission on a 1996 Montero and the issue with the Legacy does not feel similar. The local Subaru dealer is a train wreck and dishonest. Our mechanic says he is getting no error codes (don't know if it is possible to check for diagnostic error codes for a long period of time during a test drive). I read one post on another site that seemed to be describing a similar issue and that 5 trips to the Subaru dealer yielded no error codes or resolution but that when the issue worsened, they happened to be near a Firestone dealer who immediately diagnosed a bad sensor, and they replaced the sensor and resolved the issue. Any ideas ? Thanks- Doug -
1990 Legacy L gotta luv watching the check engine light flash fun!! Code 22, improper knock sensor voltage. I got a new one. One mechanic told me that because it is a two wire device (not dependent on ground) I could just plug it in and not bolt it down. Is this correct? That did not seem to work. I spent two days doing the battery dance and playing with the diag connectors. I notice that the torque spec is quite specific at 16 ft/lb. Question: does the voltage change as the sensor is "squeezed"? Question 2: I remember a pic (can't find it again) of the "right" orientation. IIRC the manual calls for a 45 degree offset for the output wire. I plan on running it 45 degrees pointed toward the left fender, kinda pointing directly at the driver's seat. Any other opinions? I DO plan to put anti seize on the bolt threads, steel vs. aluminum etc. Thanx, Mike -
My 89 Turbo Wagon and I've been experiencing some jumpy idle at start, and then the check engine light has come on. The light dissappears after the car is shut off. I checked and it's a Code 21. So I bought a coolant temp sensor and am wondering if anyone has any experience installing one of these. Thanks y'all!
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Hi Guys, I have a 1995 Subaru Liberty Heritage, 2.2l Auto, 190k on the clock. About 3 months ago I had a major 6year service on it - about a week later the engine light came on, took it back to the mechanic and they changed an ignition coil and the alternator. Recently I have been having an issue when I drive on the highway - the temp gauge appears to fluctuate - it will go up near max but just as quickly comes back down to normal temp again. A couple of days ago I came off the highway and was idling at a red light - the revs jumped from the normal 500 to over 1k for a couple of seconds. The temp gauge was showing at almost max (car did not appear to be overheating though and no issue with the coolant level). This has happened on a couple of occasions - always seems to be after I have driven on the highway (which I only do approx. once a month). Also a few days ago sitting at a red light the revs jumped up for a few seconds and engine light came on for about 30 seconds (engine light not on at the moment). Any ideas of what could be going on?? Would really appreciate it! :-) -
Hi, I was replacing my knock sensor and pulled a little too hard when trying to disconnect the sensor from the connector and the male end of the connector disconnected from it's wire (see attached). It's in a tight spot to solder the wire back to the connector. Any suggestions? Thanks!
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I just bought a used 1998 Legacy 2.2 5spd MT with ~169,000 miles on it. I'm looking for replacement knock and downstream O2 sensors for it. For the O2 Sensor, I am looking at the Bosch 15726. Is this a good sensor or should I go with the more expensive OEM part? For the knock sensor, I have not yet found a suitable part. Are there any non-OE parts or should I stick with OEM? -
Hello! I have a 1988 Leone 1800 turbo with air suspension. Something lead to that the compressor was running all the time and broke down (probably faulty damper). I have now changed the compressor (and some faulty rear dampers) and the system fills up and stays filled up like it should. I havent managed to figure out why the compressor doesn't stop when the system (dampers and airtank) are filled up. I tried to change the pressure sensor on the tank but that didn't work. How can I tell if the sensor is broken? I can't get any readings on my multimeter! Anyone with good ideas? I do have the wiring diagram. Tomas
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I need your help, friends. I have a '93 Legacy L wagon, 230k. Yesterday morning, after not driving it for 48 hours, it started very rough (almost couldn't get it started) and CEL was on. Drove to work and left a few hours later; warmer start was much better but still rough. My local shop did not have the right connector to read the CEL code but recommended a fuel filter; it had been 80k since replacement so I had them do it. Warm start was fine, but cold start later in the day was rough again. Google and YouTube educated me on the awesome self-diagnostic mode on this car, and using this I figured out that the code is 21 - Coolant Temperature Sensor or Circuit. Upon inspection, the wires leading to the sensor were halfway chewed through (second time a squirrel has wreaked havoc now...). Tonight I cut, spliced, and plugged back into the sensor, thinking I'm golden. No go - still a rough cold start and CEL is on. Self-diagnostic mode reveals code 21 is still active. I tried clearing the code, but was unsuccessful - either I'm doing it wrong, or the code is still triggering. (There is disagreement on the internet about how exactly to clear the codes...connecting the green and black lead pairs in different combinations, gas pedal down, to halfway for 2 seconds, then up...driving over 7 MPH for 10 minutes and then rev to over 2,000 RPM...I tried this....) Need advice on how to proceed. If the sensor is fine and this was a wiring problem, will I still get the rough start (due to the car assuming it is hot for fuel delivery?) until the code is cleared? If so, what's the correct procedure for clearing the code? Could also be that the sensor is itself bad...but I want to make sure of this before replacement. I've read about testing it with an ohmmeter, but it's virtually impossible to get my multimeter leads in the right places without taking the thing out. Thanks for your help!!! -
Hi again! Excellent learning situation manifesting itself in form of : Impreza with warm engine cranks but doesnt start until some time (5-15 mins) has passed. Its been happening intermittently in +20, 0 and -30 degrees of Celsius. By reading this wonderful forum found that probable cause could be engine coolent temperature sensor, I replaced it with new one and cleaned crankshaft and camshaft position sensors from oil and dirt. Car ran much better and responded well to throttle, but it didnt stop the problem. Instead of replacing stuff I Want to diagnose stuff like a boss when problem occurs next time and be able to pinpoint problematic part. I removed passanger side metal panel from floor and found ECU with text 2G, 22611, AC540, A18-000 D15, 6212, Unisia Jecs Corporation , Made in Japan. Then I went to look for ECU pin order and found few wrong ones but photos from Ausubaru.com were promising. http://www.ausubaru.com/forum/archive/index.php/t-2765.html Thanks for user jzk25 for these, http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h219/AL_RS/96EJ20NAMan2002.jpg http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h219/AL_RS/96EJ20NAMan2005.jpg http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h219/AL_RS/96EJ20NAMan2006.jpg http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h219/AL_RS/96EJ20NAMan2007.jpg I tested TPS with usb-oscilloscope and laptop and it drew smooth curve as I pushed pedal. Gonna later post screenshots of crankshaft and camshaft position sensor results. But I didnt get logical results from O2 sensor pins, if I recall they were something like 12 voltages but gonna verify pins and measure again to make sure. When I disconnected o2 sensor I was suprised that it didnt light CEL. Could someone verify if this statement is true or does it apply in my case. A faulty oxygen sensor can reduce your fuel economy by 30 to 40 percent and drastically reduce performance. -
I bought this Subaru about 2 weeks ago for a couple hundred bucks on a rainy dark night. Ran, shifted, and stopped just fine. Bought it and drove it around until i had to registar it. Then i started poking around. To the point: Can somebody provide me with a picture of the o2 sensor plug/location? I have been tracing wires on and off for a while and cant seem to find where the o2 sensor connects into the harness. The wires coming off of the sensor itself have definitely been cut off, but i wouldnt this they would have cut the harness as well... Im starting to wonder if the previous owner chopped it off when they swapped in a new engine. (Still an ea82 Spfi) Much appreciated.
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Okay so here is my question, I have a 2001 Lego 5 speed with 125,xxx miles on her, and Is there any difference between O2 sensors for the automatic and manual? On Subaru Parts For You it lists that there are two different O2 sensors as seen here: http://subarupartsforyou.com/cp_partlistbymod.php?model=Legacy&subcat=Sensor%2C+Oxygen&year=2001 I just wanted to know of this was true or not because my car has the dreaded P0420 code and I have done everything to get if off such as running NGK spark plugs, OEM Beck Arnely wires, OEM coil pack when the original one went bad, new air filter, fuel filter, intake gaskets, head gaskets, and I already did a timing belt kit on it when it hit that interval including thermostat (used the proper one, not the ordinary one) water pump, and I'm running good 89 octane gas threw her. So the only thing left is to change the front O2 sensor and I have a used one that was good out of a 2000 outback but it was an automatic so I'm not sure if they would interchange. I'm going to try the seafoam trick tomorrow to see what that does. My New York state inspection is up in a couple of months and it needs to pass the OBII check being 1996 and newer...good ol' NYS!!!
