Search the Community
Showing results for tags 'Spark'.
Found 12 results
-
Today’s problem, ignition coil. What is a good replacement? It throws a yellowish spark 1/4 inch. It is definitely not any shade of blue. Leaky engine oil. The oil pump seal is the culprit. The oil pump is fine, only one season on it. How do I re- do the seal? Water pump. This one is 11 years old, and 24,000 miles. Replace? Catastrophic Converter y pipe piece needs to be replaced. Where can I buy a decent one? Oh, and an donor-body. This one is rusty. -
Hi all, I am freshly signed up, and also fresh to Subaru's. Must admit I'm a car freak from way back, so I know my way around most old school Aussie sold cars. But when it comes to computers and other new age electrical systems on most modern cars, I seem to have fallen behind. Now I'm hoping that somebody could give me a direction of where to look, I've got a 'no start' issue. Bought Subaru Wrx not running, thought I'd give it a go. Previous owner did an engine swap, ej20 replacing ej20. He never could start it after swapping, but it ran b4 that, low on comp in one cyl. Now I've tried a lot of things, had a auto electrician out here for 4hrs, changed Cam and crank gears, changed both sensors, even though the old ones appeared to send a wave on screen. It sparked once when ignition turned on, so I changed pulleys, still won't start. Any info appreciated -
1984 GL 4WD 49 State, with Weber carb. Bah! Trying to find the cause of a problem which comes and goes. 'been pleased with the Weber carb, starts right up usually. Yesterday, I had a crank but no-start condition. Choke in right position, correct fuel pressure to carb. 50 degree day. Removed dist cap, wd-40'd and thoroughly dried it. I attempted to start several times, and I did not get even a "pop". Also, with starting fluid, choke open, then choke closed, no start, no detonation. I let the car sit for a couple of hours, then came back to it to do diagnostics. I removed #1 spark plug wire, to check spark on disembodied spark plug. The car started right up with gusto on 3 cylinders. What is the most likely cause of intermittent spark problem? Anecdotal information wanted! It's all I have to go on.
-
Hello USMB, I have a 2005 Forester with 172k miles on it in Boston. In October (3 months ago), I was having some issues with the engine stalling when it was rainy out. I could get the car driving, but once I would get up to ~2500 rpm in the rain, the engine would sputter and lose a lot of power. To fix this problem, I changed out the ignition coil and the wires to the spark plugs. I used Duralast parts for this. This seemed to fix that problem, but a new problem arose. Since swapping the coil and wires, the car will oftentimes not start. It will crank and crank, but will not start running on its own. In cold weather (less than 20 degrees F), there is not really much of a chance it will start. In warm weather, it will start sometimes. Hooking up jumper cables to another car would help sometimes, but not always. I have since replaced the spark plugs and cam position sensor (1 of 2?), which didn't help at all. I had the car towed over to a mechanic who tried diagnosing it for the last two weeks. He discovered that when the issue was happening, there was no spark. However, he could not figure out what the issue was. He replaced the crankshaft sensor, but that did not help either. In week 2 (last week) of the car being in the shop, the car was starting up every time. I picked it up and drove it home with no problems since I need the car for work. Ever since then (2 days ago), I am having the same issue again and have not been able to get it to start a single time. At this point, I am thinking perhaps it is the wiring or the connector to the ignition coil, the ECU, or perhaps another sensor. Before I try poking around in there some more, I am hoping someone here might have some advice on this case. -
Okay, everybody, so I'm having another problem with my '92 Loyale. It was running fine with the new battery and I got the shim for the loose terminal and that was the fix. But now it struggled to start a couple nights ago, and it's been really, really cold out in my area. It gave a good crank and tried to start but died. I tried again and the same thing happened. Tried once more and that time I pumped the gas while I cranked engine and it got started then, but the vehicle vibrated a little and the idle did not start out high but very low. Also there's been a squealing noise too, like maybe a belt on one of the pulleys? Once the engine warms up the squeal usually stops. After that I was able to start the car fine each time but there's this problem of it idling really low. Any answers, guys? Could it be the arctic weather that caused the problem? Too much cold weather affecting the engine and components? And what can I do about it? I don't think the timing slipped because I got that fixed already last year, brand new timing belt and new plugs and distributor. I saw one of Scotty Kilmer's vids about using an idle throttle cleaner that could solve the problem, but what does my situation seem like to you guys? -
Hi guys. I need some help. I've swapped and ej20g in to my Subaru pickup. I've had it running fine but recently its not started. It was running fine one day, the next day it didn't so I made a different earth for it and I started straight away. I then left it for another day. Not touched anything and it won't start. So I removed the new earth and it fired up again. Running brilliantly Left it another day and it won't start at all. It cranks but I have no spark. Has anyone got an answer for this. Ibe already swapped the crack sensor over. I'm hoping it's just a relay that was intermittently broken and now has completed given up. Any help with this is appreciated. Thanks -
Hi all, I've posted this on nasioc but gotten nothing so far, so I figured i'd post here. I am almost done replacing the engine in my 2000 legacy outback wagon after an engine failure (metal scraping noises!) I have everything back but the thing won't start I have been troubleshooting all week after work and all day last Saturday but still haven't fixed the problem. Here is the full story.... After not getting a start I started doing the basic checks. Fuel, check. Injectors firing, check. Good battery, check. Timing(just did it during install) check. Crankshaft sensor test and replaced, check. While checking the spark I found that it was non-existant and or weak and inconsistent so I tested and swapped in a spare coil pack I had from the donor engine...no change. I tried checking power to the coil, that was good and did NOT dip during crank. I checked coil pack signal, I got some pulses but I do not have a good enough oscilloscope to really see what I was getting(OC is from the 50s...) After this I started reading through the FSM religiously I found some info about the crankshaft sensor which I know drives the timing for spark, which might explain my spark issues. So I went through the troubleshooting steps for that sensor. The sensor checked out via a resistance check, but I replaced it anyway simply to rule it out. Next, the manual said to check the wiring by unplugging the sensor and checking resistance to ground. Pin 1 (left most pin) is supposed to read between 10ohm and 100K ohm. I tested it at 90K ohm...so a little bit high. Pin 2, supposed to be < 10ohm to ground. Tested, 1.5k ohm. So bang out of tolerance. For this the FSM says to "In this case, repair the following: I Open circuit in harness between crankshaft position sensor and ECM connector I Poor contact in ECM connector I Poor contact in coupling connector (B21)" Going off this I figured it was best to isolate parts of the wiring and test them individually. So I tested E10 to E2 AKA the connector to the sensor that then runs to the gray connector that is on the intake manifold wiring said. This circuit checked out A-OK with both wires showing 0-ohm resistance from both ends. Next, I check the other side so B21 to B135 AKA bulkhead side wiring to ECM wiring(middle connector). This also checked out a-ok. After this, I deduced that it must be the connectors, so I connected everything back together, and unplugged both ends, ECM and sensor side (B135 and E10). Then I tested resistance from end to end and across the wires to make sure there was not a short. Again, everything checked out a-ok. At this point I was beyond stumped, I seemingly had checked everything and it still wasn't working. As soon as I would plug the wire back into the ECM my test results would be bad. I began trying different ground test points, start, battery, intake manifold, ECU housing, intake manifold. All tested the same or within the margin of error. I even checked the same measurements on a 04 legacy outback I have and the readings I got off that working car for the sensor wire to ground measurements were well within spec. By now I am pretty convinced that it is a ground issue so I look up all the ground points on the ECU as defined by the FSM. The only one that did not test 0 ohm to ground was ground on pin 6 of B135 ECM connector(middle orange for me). I got a reading of about 320ohm to ground which, is not high, but I think higher than it should be. I chased this wire using the FSM to pin 16 on B22(big brown connector engine bay) I tested from ECM to B22 and got about the same reading again. Which when you think about it is actually interesting. Why between two points that are "supposed" to be directly connected is there the same resistance as there is to ground...that's weird! I started digging through the FSM again checking the wiring diagrams and finding all the places this wire connect. According to the FSM I have this wire connects to the, fuel gauge sub-module, neutral position switch, vehicle speed sensor, check connector, and data link connector. That is where I am now, I'm trying to identify all the places it runs and start testing parts of the circuit. But, I figured it was finally time to ask a question on a forum or two and see what you guys think. Am I missing something super obvious? Any tips for tracking this issue down? The weird thing about this is that the car ran before I pulled the engine and dropped in a new one. I started the process about 3 months ago, and have been slowly working on it till now. During the swap I made sure to keep my intake manifold, and crankshaft pulley. It was an auto to manual swap so there was actually quite a few parts to switch over...so maybe I missed something? ANY help would be truly appreciated, below is a link to the relevant sections FSM if anyone wants to take a look and double check my findings. I am reallllly stumped at this point. FSM: Look at engine sections for crankshaft sensor testing and Wiring diagram for plug locations and wiring diagrams. https://drive.google.com/folderview?...UE&usp=sharing P.S. Hopefully it didnt take you as long to read this as it did for me to write it! -
Hi All, I have a gorgeous 1985 Turbo Sedan in incredible condition inside and out, but the car hasn't been starting for months. And a snowy Boston winter is when I need it most! Car can be seen here: http://www.checkoutthiscar.com/2012/09/pleasant-pleiades-83k-mile-1985-subaru_14.html I hate to see the car garaged and not running, and I bought this little mountain goat to use it!! Just to preface, this is my first post, though I've read every last thread I could find related to this subject. I must be missing SOMETHING, but I can't figure it out. I've been at this for literally five weeks and I feel like I'm at a dead end. Here goes... Car cranks but no spark at coil. Primary and secondary circuits are within spec on a new Accel 8140(?) coil. Coil reads ~12V at both + and - terminals. Importantly, the tach does not respond when cranking. I have tried 2 separate digital gauge clusters to no avail. Coil is connected as follows: black/white from distributor to + 12V from harness (black/white) to + yellow from distributor to - yellow from harness to - thick black ground from harness to - I have a loose plastic connector from distributor not connected (what is this?) I have tried 3 separate distributors. Original, junkyard, and rebuilt/tested from Advance Auto Parts. Same problem with each = no spark at coil. Tested all HT leads from coil to distributor and cap to plugs. All good. Cleaned all pickups on old cap and rotor. Tried new cap and rotor. Took off both fenders and tested continuity of all wires through engine compartment and under dash, etc. I cannot locate a fault anywhere! I've installed a new battery and have not checked the charging system since the car won't fire. I'm getting fuel and the pump functions with green connectors attached, and also as the starter is cranking. Pressure and compression are great and consistent among all cylinders. Timing is set properly, and rotor points at #1 cylinder when flywheel is at TDC. I'm sure I've gone through other systems and sensors over the past 5 weeks as well, but they're escaping me at this point... Please let me know if anyone has any suggestions for me. I'll be forever indebted! Many thanks, Andrew -
Recently bought a 93 Legacy wagon off Craigslist for my father to commute to work out of town. It runs good and is used to commute 250mi's a week (highway drive 125mi there & 125mi back). I check it out every weekend when he gets back. THE MAIN issue is it backfires thru intake at startup & the idle is high, only when engine is cold! After it warms up it runs better & idles fine. It had the Bosch 4 prong platinum spark plugs, runs better with copper NGK's, but still backfiring. I cleaned the PVC vavle, MAF sensor, IACV, & throttle body also. Had the exhaust checked out & they replaced 1 of the cats but not sure if they really checked EVERYTHING out. Previous owner had replaced the plugs/wires & air filter. I've researched this & came across a few possibilities but the car runs fine once warmed up. coolant temp sensor could be failing-dumping too much fuel at warm up. Timing belt could have jumped a tooth. Exhaust leak near the head or at the Y-pipe allowing air in & then closing when warmed up. Low or uneven compression. These are some of the problems that I read can cause a backfire but the car runs really nice once warmed up. Another issue is the speedo doesn't work. Check engine light is on for Vehicle Speed Sensor. And the POWER light for the trans blinks when you turn the key on. I figure that the tranny Control Unit senses the VSS & is why power light blinks. So does this mean the Tranny is in a "SAFE MODE" not performing at its best because the computer sensed a problem? It feels like it could have more acceleration & performance is what im getting at. Any helpful suggestions, comments, questions or information is highly appreciated! THANKS. -
Just rebuilt my lower half of the engine and I foregot to mark my vaccum lines and I think some were off to begin with. Anyone have a diagram they can post to help me out. I have 1.6 l 1980 Brat. Thanks.
-
EA81 86 Brat w/4 speed. I recently replaced my Hitachi carb with a Weber, once I get her running it is Awesome. Getting to that point seems to be a slight struggle. I had my mechanic replace bushings and other pieces on the front end. He seems to think that there is no spark while cranking the starter, then once I let off the starter it proceeds to give spark and fire off. He freely admits he doesn't know a lot about the Soobs, but thinks it may be the ignition or something else. I'm starting to think it may be the worn ignition, a few months back I noticed while going down the road I had no radio, fan, or cigarette lighter power. Figured out that the key was not returning back to the run position, thus not allowing power to the aforementioned things. So my question is could this worn ignition cause me lack of spark too, or is this the wrong thing to consider?
-
I have noticed some missing in my 2006 WRX lately and, even though miles are low, according the the 'time' side of the schedule, it may need new plugs so, I ordered some. any hints, tips or warnings for pulling the wire boots, changing the plugs, access, etc. appreciated. anything else nearby I should inspect or change? thanx guys
