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Found 15 results
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Hi all, Just bought a 2020 Crosstrek. I can't stand the engine start-stop feature. How can I disable it? Happy New Year, Jeff in Boston -
My partner was driving her Legacy down the freeway. She got pissed off by another driver and romped up to 100mph (I already yelled at her for doing this). She said that suddenly the car starting getting jerky and slowing down. She kept trying to accelerate and said that her RPMs read 4000-5000, but she coasted to a stop off the exit. The engine didn’t stop until she shut it off to try to start again, but it wouldn’t turn over and her lights dimmed and died. I tried to jump her, it would crank then not start. I took the battery and alternator to get tested, the alternator was fine, the battery was completely shot. New battery and the car will crank, maybe catch for a second or two if I romp on the gas, but not fully start. I can hear the fuel pump when I turn the key to the “ON” position and can hear it whenever I press the gas pedal. When cranking I can hear a godawful metal-on-metal chirp coming from somewhere in the engine block. I checked the timing belt. All four visible pulleys are aligned, I haven’t checked under the main cam-shaft pulley yet. I’m really at my wits end, the little metal shriek/chirp seems to be at a semi-regular interval. I don’t know why the transmission would decouple from the engine midrun, and how that would keep the engine from starting. I hooked up a reader for fault codes... unfortunately it is showing nothing since the battery was dead and I can’t get it running long enough to throw a code. -
My 85 Brat started and ran a month ago, then it sat for a month. I tried to start it, the engine would maybe 1/2 turn over with each try. Things I did Replace battery with a proven strong one. Clean battery terminals, and cable clamps, clean engine ground connection, clean positive cable connection at starter. I can swap parts with my healthy 1984 GL! What should my next step be? -
1984 GL 4WD 49 State, with Weber carb. Bah! Trying to find the cause of a problem which comes and goes. 'been pleased with the Weber carb, starts right up usually. Yesterday, I had a crank but no-start condition. Choke in right position, correct fuel pressure to carb. 50 degree day. Removed dist cap, wd-40'd and thoroughly dried it. I attempted to start several times, and I did not get even a "pop". Also, with starting fluid, choke open, then choke closed, no start, no detonation. I let the car sit for a couple of hours, then came back to it to do diagnostics. I removed #1 spark plug wire, to check spark on disembodied spark plug. The car started right up with gusto on 3 cylinders. What is the most likely cause of intermittent spark problem? Anecdotal information wanted! It's all I have to go on.
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22 degrees forecast for when I plan to start my ‘84 Webered EA81. I have never started this carb in weather so cold. 500 miles from home, with an old battery, also. Any suggestions for a cold weather start?
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So I dropped the clutch in 1st at about 5k rpms in some loose gravel to try to drift, the car bogged out hard but continued to run. Then the CEL came on and it idled high around 1200 rpm instead of the usual 5-600 rpms. Then after finding out auto zone couldn't run my codes I tried to drive home. After about 15 minutes The car bogged out under light throttle at a stop light trying to move in 1st. Then it wouldn't start after that. Plugged the black CEL memory cables in and turned the key to ON. now it's throwing codes 16, 17, 22, 23, 24, 35, 42, and 49 when the CEL was never on before. The car won't start at all just cranks and cranks until the battery dies. All stock ej22t awd 5 speed manual -
2015 legacy, 24k 2.5 Premium Car starts cold without issues If run to store and restart, takes a few times to start. Cranks but doesn't turn over. Does eventually start. Recently had main relay recall completed wth-68 Also they completed following update 11-162-16 11-162-16R Since taking in for the previous stated recall and update, I've had the same issues. Rafferty Subaru didn't have issues starting while in their shop. Anybody have similar issues? -
1991 Subaru Legacy was sitting for 2-3 weeks and would not start. I got the battery jumped and it started and I was just going to drive straight to the shop, but when I got to the end of the road the car shut off and would not start again. Also prior to it sitting for 2-3 weeks it would start when I left from my residence, but if I drove it somewhere else and tried to start it again then it would not start. I have the following details: $1,500 worth of work done on it in 2015 including O2 sensor, ECM, fuel pump replacement, and new battery. The battery should still be under warranty. The car has an after market digital CD/cassette player, so I m not sure if that draws more energy than the car can handle. Also until recently one of the doors would not close completely and a little red light would be on constantly to indicate that the door was not closed. I m not sure if this light could have slowly been draining the battery/alternator or if this is even an issue. My question is based on the vehicle starting but not staying started, is this likely a problem with the alternator? Do I need a new one or could the current one be repaired? Cost estimate? I will have to get it towed to the shop because obviously it can t be driven in its current state, but I would just like to have an idea of what may be wrong and what would be the cheapest route since I have already spent so much money on the vehicle. -
I have a 95 Impreza with a 1.8L. For quite a while it's started hard when it's warmed up just short of operating temp. Cold starts are fine and, if it comes up to temp and I shut it off for a very short while no trouble. If it warms up part way or if it begins to cool down it 'sometimes' won't fire. Lately it's even not wanting to start on hot days (90+F). It turns over great but won't fire. I can ALWAYS pop start the car and it runs fine once started. Sometimes opening the air filter cover helps it fire up. Since this began I've replaced the air filter, plugs, wires, coolant temp sensor, MAF sensor, PCV valve, a fuel injector and fuel injection pressure regulator. Where should I look next? I really need this car running. At 150K it should have lots of miles left but I'm running out of money and ideas. -
Howdy, My Subaru won't start all of a sudden. I am new to this car, so bear with me. I will explain what I have observed. Upon turning the key to a point the lights turn on the fuel pump in the rear makes a "Rrrrrrr... Rrrrrrr" Sound with about a one-and-a-half second pause between sounds. This happened before but the car would start and then there would be a constant "rrrrr" sound. There was a situation not so long ago where I cranked for a while longer than I'd like to, and it did start. The fuel pump and fuel filter look brand new. But my first assumption to this point is that I must have been too low on gas and they got gummed up. However, I must consider than the sound is normal. Again, I'm a newb. Did a firing test. Definitely firing. Suggestions, ideas, knowledge? Update 1: After letting the starter attempt to do it's job for about five or six seconds the car did start and does start every time after. However, I do not know if that means the problem is somehow solved. The idle itself on the first rough-start was fine, but became more adequate all of a sudden with a higher RPM. I will be doing a cold start soon to see if I experience the same difficulty. Update 2: I let the fuel pump oscillate two to three times before attempting a start. After actually running or being on a trip it starts right away. The short (if there truly was one) is also gone. I have not experienced difficulty to start anymore. I assume it was dirty fuel causing inadequate pressure. But really, I don't know.
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Hello again everybody! after doing a full reseal on my 1990 loyale ea82 I can't get the darn thing started! here's what I've done / replaced -New plugs, plug wires, coil, rotor, cap and timing belts. -The timing belts were installed as per milefox's video on the proper flywheel mark. -The distributor was stabbed on TDC on the compression stroke. -Checked all fuses. -Battery tests out good. -I can pull the coil wire off the dist. and I get a nice hot spark. Even with a shot of starter fluid I don't even get a sputter. I'm losing my mind!! -
Hi folks, long time stalker of the forum.... Now I need some help. GOt my daughter an 86 GL Wagon, I have an 85... Love these little tanks! But her's developed a couple of symptoms I'm trying to trouble shoot. Few days ago, her passengers headlight went very dim... Checked fuses, replaced out of principle. Nothing... couple days later at school it wouldn't start. Tried jumping it, nothing. The OS lights all come on, the electric fan kicks on, radio powers... but when ignition turned to start, nothing. Fan stops, lights go out... release starting position and all lights and fan come back on, figure that is just an interrupter mode while starting. maybe not. So, thought maybe starter... Replaced with good one from my 85 parts bin... Same symptoms. Starter does not engage... Took old starter to parts store, tested bad. Again, replacement starter was tested (good) before installing. Could be ignition switch I guess, but several people have told me that would be a long shot... Any help with gitting my girls little tank back on the road is much appreciated. I have read about the grounds and am going after them this weekend... Some where on this forum a guy listed 7 grounds to be checked and corrected. Plan to do that asap... Anybody have diagrams of exactly where they are located... I got an idea, but details always help. However, the starting thing is a bit odd to me. Car is an 86 GL Wagon Dual Range, 5sp... Hicrappy carb, no AC, No accessory lighting...
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I swapped a 97(?) JDM 2.5L in for a 99 2.5L recently. The 99 was driven about 60 miles with no water in it due to a blown hose, nuf said, it wasn't me. I installed the "new" older 2.5 with new timing belt blah blah blah. Timing set up nicely. Even though the JDM was injected, we transferred the inake and other appropriate items to the "new" block including drilling and tappping out the EGR hole in the head. I don't want to go into the 4 bolt vs 8 bolt "bell housing" issue as it doesn't seem to be an issue. Where my problem is at, is that I can get spark to the cylinders #1 and #2 but get no spark to #3 and #4. The coil(s) check out, the ignitor checks out and there doesn't seem to be a signal from the ECU to fire the #3/#4 ignitor circuit. I have checked the wiring between the ECU and the Ignitor and it appears OK. The connector at the ECU is clean and undamaged. So I assumed it was the ECU as I have read that it is the main source of "no start" conditions. I put in a used ECU. I got exactly the same deal, no signal to #3/#4 circuit in the ignitor. I find it hard to believe that a second (albeit used) ECU would have the same problem ........ or does it? What would cause the ECU to send signals to fire the #1/#2 circuit but not the #3/#4? I am baffled but it is probably something simple. Any help? I am new to this site and this is my first request. As far as my background. I have degrees in Electronics and Mechanical Engineering so I am no ametuer at troubleshooting and I am pretty much down to earth in that degrees don't mean spit sometimes. I usually find the simple things are the ones that trip us up. -
Let's see if anyone has been through this problem before. I have a late 1988 (manufactured in Sept. uses some 1989 parts Im often told?) GL wagon. It starts good and runs good. If I don't turn it off (just fill it running at the pump) it will run forever, no problems, but once I turn it off I have to wait 2-5 hours til the engine temp cools down and it will start again. I switched out the ECU and that made no difference. Someone else tested the ignition relay for me and the ECU grounding. Fuel pump has good pressure. It gets spark fine. I tested the temperature sensor, When looking in the fuel injector while trying it I don't see any fuel injection going on. However, one of the three mechanics who looked at the car and gave it back scratching their head (this one at an actual expensive dealership) said he thought it was injecting, but just running lean...I don't know. My next step is to swap out a new (read different used but hopefully functioning) section of the engine that has the engine wiring harness, Throttle body injector, and a lot of sensors...I might not sound too clear on that because I am only learning about the innards of my car in detail recently. I could change a tire or an alternator or something, but nothing this involved. In the meantime I have bought another Subaru 1988 GL wagon (yea!) to have something to drive. It was intended originally to maybe donate parts to the other, but now I love both children and neither will be cannibalized! Both will be saved! The new wagon is red, lifted, and I just put 15" wheels on it! If anyone has been through this Let me know your wisdom. Patty
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Bought a new legacy (2011) with OEM remote start. Remote is not paired. Is this something I can do myself, or do I have to take it to the dealer? I found the steps below online, but they don't seem to be working. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Steps I found that AREN'T working: Open drivers door turn key in ignition from lock to on to lock to on to lock to on Hit remote button once turn key to lock
