Search the Community
Showing results for tags 'Starter'.
Found 24 results
-
So I have had a recurring problem with my 1990 loyale not wanting to start. It was intermittent but got worse as time went on. Symptom: When car was hot or from a cold start, when I turned the key I would hear a clicking sound coming from the engine compartment. I would turn the key over and over again until it would finally turn over (sometimes it would take 50 times!). Car would run fine after starting. Attempts to Fix: Replaced coolant temperature sensor: A lot of posts on these causing hot starting issues. Did not fix the problem. Replaced starter: nope. Cleaned all battery connections and connections to starter: didn't fix problem Changed out battery and replaced with new one: still had same issues Actual Fix: After reading up on the USMB forums and on other toyota forums I discovered that the early Subarus do not have starter relays. As the wiring gets older and more worn out, the power going to the starter diminishes. The fix is to put a relay in between the starter and the ignition. Some people recommend buying a cheap headlight relay and wiring it in yourself. You can look up starter relay or ignition relay yourself to find instructions. Not being a mechanic myself, I chose this kit: Bosch WR1 Starter Relay Kit http://www.amazon.com/Bosch-WR1-Starter-Relay/dp/B001COAX78 The kit comes with a relay, all the wires, and easy to follow instructions including a wiring diagram. It took me 20 minutes to wire up and made the whole process a breeze. Mystery Solved! Starts up without hesitation. For $25.00 this was a cheap and painless fix (once I figured out the actual problem) Hope this helps some of my fellow vintage sub owners. Peace!- 7 replies
-
- 3
-
-
- ignition starting not loyale
- collant sensor
- (and 4 more)
-
Hello, I just bought a 2020 Crosstrek. I like the car but I can't stand the Start/Stop feature which turns the car off when you're stopped at a red light, and restarts when you take your foot off the brake. Does anyone know how to disable the feature? On earlier models I think it was a matter of taking out a fuse..... Thanks, Jeff in Boston
-
My 85 Brat started and ran a month ago, then it sat for a month. I tried to start it, the engine would maybe 1/2 turn over with each try. Things I did Replace battery with a proven strong one. Clean battery terminals, and cable clamps, clean engine ground connection, clean positive cable connection at starter. I can swap parts with my healthy 1984 GL! What should my next step be? -
About every 6th try the starter does nothing. If I hold the key in start position the starter kicks in an 10 to 15 seconds. Otherwise it starts normally. Even when there is a delay the starter sounds perfectly normal. Thanks -
I have an automatic 2002 Subaru Forester, and I am having trouble possibly with the starter. I replaced this starter a year ago when the old one stopped working. Recently the car has had issues starting. All I here is a spinning noise which sounds like the bendix spinning but it does not sound like it is engaging the fly wheel. I have tested the starter to make sure the bendix was working by separating it from the engine while all the wiring was still hooked up. Upon turning the ignition on, the bendix drive pops out and starts spinning, just like it is supposed to. I can't find anything wrong with the starter, and there is nothing foreign up against the flywheel to block the bendix drive from coming out and grabbing the flywheel. I checked the teeth on the fly wheel and they were not worn or broken. I worked on the car for 5 hours today and out of the 30+ tries to get it started, it started twice. I am clueless. There is some wear on the front of the teeth of the bendix, is it possible that the bendix isn’t engaging the fly wheel enough, do I need to shim the starter? If anyone has any ideas, I would be most greatfull.
-
Here's the story... For a few months our 2002 4cyl outback was developing a problem where the you would turn the key and hear "click" but not start. Try it again and it would start fine and strong. As time when on there were more "clicks" before a start. Eventually, it just clicked, and no start. I tested the battey, it seems fine. so I ruled out the battery. I put the key in the On position and bypassed the relay with a jumper wire between the starter and the battery and just got the "click". So I ruled out the relay I removed the starter. Just for kicks, I attached the starter to the battery. The pinion gear popped into place and spun just fine (with no load on it). Should I be worried, or is it still the starter? -
97 OBW AT. Replaced the starter with a reman Subaru 2 years ago. I often turn the key and nothing happens but then it'll finally turn over after a few more tires. I hear at least two "clicks" when I turn and nothing happens, which I guess are relays. Been going on for a long time but getting worse over time. Today it wouldn't start even after 100 tries. I hooked up a jump back and that didn't help. I'm about the replace the starter again but I know there's discussion of some contact that cause this problem, tho I don't exactly recall. Is there a more reliable product than the Subaru reman starter? I see plenty of offerings but want to stay away from the lousy ones. Thoughts? -
Hi everyone, I am in at a lost. Before I did a compression test, the car was working just fine. Now, it is just making clicking noises everytime I turn the key. I have a 97 subaru outback 2.5l. The compression test were all ok, except the 4th cylinder had a weaker 1st puff. Then the spark plugs were installed back in. I put some dielectric on the boot metal connectors. (I don't know if that will cause anything). Also, I did jack up the engine pretty far to get access to the 3rd and 4th spark plugs. But the confusing thing is, the engine was able to crank and give me compression readings. Afterwards, I lowered the engine, and all of a sudden, there's no life. Oh, also, I forgot to unplug the ignition for the first test, but disconnected it for the rest of the test. Will I get clicking noise if the ignition coil goes bad? I thought the clicking noise was from the starter or the starter solenoid. The clicking was pretty loud under the hood in the area where the starter is located. I banged on it, still didn't work. Then I thought, maybe the battery is just low. I know, doing the compression test took a lot of juice out of the battery. But I had spare, and the battery was strong enough to power up other vehicles. So i'm not sure if it's the battery either. Just how much battery power do I need to power a power eating outback? This morning, I took out the starter, and disassembled the solenoid, cleaned it, and relubed it. I couldn't get the screws from the back of the starter off so I couldn't clean it, but looking inside it, it didn't look that bad. After putting it together, I tested it with a battery power, and it spins, and turns on. I also checked it with a volt meter, but I don't know if I did it correctly. I read 20 from the multimeter...... except that was wrong. I had set the multimeter correctly, but read the Ohms markings instead... lol. only now have I remembered how careless I was in reading it. But thinking about the settings I used and where the needle landed, it may have given me somewhere around 9v. I installed it back on the car, but it still doesn't work. When I turn the key, the pulley turns for a split second, and then click click click click............ like it doesn't have enough power to turn the engine over. ... or maybe something internal in the engine blocking itself from getting turned?..... I am lost. All I did was jacked up the engine, did compression test, then lowered it back down! ..... I did nothing else to it. Any advice will be helpful. I had spent about 3 days in the cold scratching my head trying to figure what is going on. Oh yeah, also, I do have a remote lock on the car. But I disabled it after every time I hook up the battery. ...so I don't know anymore. Could that be a possible cause as well? Thanks in advance. And I'm sorry its kind of long. -
A couple years ago my car-starting process began having problems, when I turn the key to start the pinion would enter the ring gear area and I would hear the "click" but the starter wouldn't spin the flywheel. I turned the key multiple times and eventually the car turned over. I tried a couple times getting a jump start thinking it was my battery, and ended up buying a new battery just in case but that never solved the problem. The starting problem continued sporadically for a few weeks till I decided to replace my starter, as hitting it with a rubber mallet seemed to solve my problem. I brought in my "dead" starter in for testing and they could not find any issues with it, but I bought a rebuilt one anyways, I had no issues for a couple weeks after installation but the problem did come back soon. Since the installation 2 years ago, around every 10th time I've gone to start my car I have had to get out and whack my starter with a rubber mallet. Annoying, yes but I have learned to live with it. Recently I have had the pinion remain against the ring gear after I release the key and the engine is running, I have to get out and whack the starter with the mallet to release the Pinion from the ring gear(terrible sound). Has anyone had a similar problem?? Is this an issue with my ring gear teeth? Or could it be as simple as torque specs on the starter bolts?? I feel hitting the starter with a rubber mallet might be jarring it from its optimal position, but what started the issue in the first place?? I have also tried jiggling the two starter wires each time in hopes that it is that, but that never helps. Thanks! Mike -
So I got a new battery after I had my old one tested at Auto Zone and they said it was bad. New battery is good and worked fine, but after three days I went to start it and I got nothing that time. It can't be the starter cuz that is new too, I had it put in some months back and didn't even run the car that much, plus I had my brother tap it while I tried to start car and still nothing. Anybody got any idea? Could it be the alternator? -
Hello, I'm having a really weird problem and having been able to pull up anything in my repair book, online or on the forum here. A lot of that has to do with not really sure how to word the searches. The temperature has started dropping and ever since it got below zero if the car has sat for a few hours while at work or over night when you go to start it (pressing the brake, turning the key) nothing happens, no crank, no start, nothing. If you let go of the brake and turn the key it starts up. Drive five minutes, turn off the car, go into a store or something and when you come back the car starts fine with pressing the brake. The other morning I tried not pressing the brake when starting the first time of the day and nothing happened. Tried with brake and nothing happened. Without brake, nothing. Moved the gear shifter through the gears a few times and nothing. This may have been a coincidence and may not have started if I did my usual first try with the brake. My wife tried a couple hours later in the morning and it started up fine. On occassion you have to use your foot to raise the brake to get it to start. About 1/3 to 1/2 of the times when it starts it kind of half dies before fully starting. I'm thinking it's the neutral safety switch but the brake thing and the starter being weird on occassion is throwing me off. As I said it only started once the temperature dropped. This has happened on a couple occassions since we bought the car three years ago, maybe once or twice in a winter but never constantly. Any thoughts? Thanks in advance for any help. If there's a previous topic I missed my apologies! Edit: It's a 2001 Legacy. -
Hello, I have a '92 Loyale FWD 3spd that I love to death. Since it's about to start getting cold (-11 degrees on the worst day) I decided I'd try installing a remote starter as I have direct line-of-site to my car from my living room window. Obligatory pic: The super simple starter box: http://www.compustar.com/product/cs800-s/ I've dealt with wiring quite a bit before, so I consider all of my connections to be solid and well insulated. The problem: The cs800 has 2 separate 12v+ constant wires, both connected directly to the battery. Each wire has a 30a inline fuse. One of these fuses always blows as soon as I attempt a remote start. I am assuming one 12v supplies power to the starter/ign and the other 12v supplies power to the accessories. Troubleshooting: -Cut the remote-start 12v to starter wire, still blows. -Took out EVERY fuse from the fuse panel (even spfi, fuel, etc). At this point all that is drawing power from the device on start is acc, and ignition. -Went back through all my connections and made sure they were good/correct. I'm starting to wonder if my cluster has a short in it because it was the only thing on when I had all the fuses out. My next test was going to be taking out the cluster and unplugging it to see if that helps. Now, not to muddy up the waters even more, but it does seem like my car has had an existing electrical issue since I bought it. It has 12.9v when off and a little over 14v when running which seems ok. HOWEVER if at a stoplight with my blinker on, I can audibly hear and see my dash lights dimming slightly when the blinker clicks on. Also, the heater blower will run faster if I turn off the headlights, etc. I don't think this should be happening with a healthy 14v cruising down the road. Let me know if you have any ideas or further troubleshooting that I can perform. Thanks in advance. -
Howdy, My Subaru won't start all of a sudden. I am new to this car, so bear with me. I will explain what I have observed. Upon turning the key to a point the lights turn on the fuel pump in the rear makes a "Rrrrrrr... Rrrrrrr" Sound with about a one-and-a-half second pause between sounds. This happened before but the car would start and then there would be a constant "rrrrr" sound. There was a situation not so long ago where I cranked for a while longer than I'd like to, and it did start. The fuel pump and fuel filter look brand new. But my first assumption to this point is that I must have been too low on gas and they got gummed up. However, I must consider than the sound is normal. Again, I'm a newb. Did a firing test. Definitely firing. Suggestions, ideas, knowledge? Update 1: After letting the starter attempt to do it's job for about five or six seconds the car did start and does start every time after. However, I do not know if that means the problem is somehow solved. The idle itself on the first rough-start was fine, but became more adequate all of a sudden with a higher RPM. I will be doing a cold start soon to see if I experience the same difficulty. Update 2: I let the fuel pump oscillate two to three times before attempting a start. After actually running or being on a trip it starts right away. The short (if there truly was one) is also gone. I have not experienced difficulty to start anymore. I assume it was dirty fuel causing inadequate pressure. But really, I don't know.
-
Ok, been hotwiring 99 legacy more than a year without any problems. I was using a light switch for the on/off and a springy button thing to engage the starter. It all worked well, and was simple for my gf to use as well. Then I found what i thought was a really cool new switch and button combo that would both fit well and look much better, so i took the light switch and button off and thats when things went south. I got sidetracked doing something with my neighbor, and during this time while all the ignituon wires were just hanging free, my gf decided she needed to drive to the store. I heard her yell and saw the cloud of smoke come from under the hood. The big wire connecting the selenoid to the starter had fried - all the insulation was burned off and after it cooled down i taped that wire back up but it was clear the starter was done. So i got a new starter, and now when i try to start the car it sounds like somethings not engaging. Theres no cranking sound, just a constant sound like things are just rotating. The cars been dead about a month now and i dont know what to do. I thought the starter may not be turning the flywheel but it is. I also cleaned all the ground wires i could find , had both the starter and alternator tested, and made sure theres spark. Its the weirdest sound trying to start it, everyone whos heard it says the same thing - that theyve never heard that before and that it sounds like somethings not engaging. I dont know what to do please help -
My 2005 Outback 3.0 ran fine for its first 100,000 miles, but has been plagued by electrical gremlins for the last 20,000. A parasitic drain forces me to disconnect the battery every night or it would be dead in the morning. But the daily reboot is less of an issue than its refusal to crank. Key in the ignition, fully charged battery, and the starter won't even attempt to crank. I cleaned all the battery and starter contacts, but no luck. Yesterday I accessed the gear shift interlock (that functions like a neutral safety switch), moved the gearshift to neutral, turned the key and...it started! Drove for 20 minutes, parked in my driveway, turned it off. Tried to start it, and just like before, no cranking. Left it for an hour, found a long wooden stick, tapped the solenoid a few times and...it started..again! Drove for 10 minutes, parked, turned it off and...dead again. I'm baffled. Could either the interlock or solenoid be the issue, or am I just randomly throwing darts at a target in the dark? I haven't been able to trace the source of the parasitic drain, but I don't think it's related. I'd appreciate any insights anyone out there might offer. -
Hi all, This is my first post after having lurked these forums for a while. I have a 1997 Legacy Outback that has been slow to start this winter. When I start the car for the first time of the day, there is generally a fraction of a turn over, but it won't start. It seems like something is "sticking", and that after a few tries, it unsticks. I try this somewhere between 2-6 times, and it will finally start and run just fine. Then, throughout the day if it hasn't gotten too cold, it will start right up on the first try. This morning I had the same issue in which it took about 6 attempts before it fully turned over and started right up. I then went to the gas station and filled up, and had the same issue trying to start it at the gas station. However, this time, it seems like the starter stayed engaged. It made a lot of noise while I drove it for about a half block before pulling over and turning off the car. The car continued to try to start for a few seconds after I removed the key. I let it rest a few seconds, and then started it back up just fine. Now, I have the check engine light on. Any input on what this could be? I've tried to narrow it down to a starter solenoid, or maybe the starter relay, but I wanted to share my specific symptoms and see if you all had any ideas. Thanks for your time! -
Our car, a 1986 GL Wagon, has an aggravating problem, having to do with starting. The car will start fine for any random number of times, then, with no warning or advance symptoms, it will refuse to start. After sitting for anywhere from 1 to 3 days, it will start back up again for an indeterminate amount of time, after which the no-start problem will show up again. During the times it doesn't start, when the key is turned fully into the start postion, we observe the following: No dash lights No map light (front overhead dome light) No head lights Radio does get power Overhead lights and 4-ways work The horn works There is no response from the starter at all, not even a click Today we had the car towed across town. It had sat, unwilling to start, exhibiting the symptoms above, for three straight days. We tested the car before the tow … no start, no joy (the last time this happened, the problem resolved itself overnight). The car was towed, and dropped at the mechanic. When we attempted to start the car after the car was dropped, to demonstrate for the mechanic … it started normally and ran normally. After thoroughly reviewing the status of all the fuses (including the ones under the hood), It's now back in our driveway and the hard part is we paid for a tow to no end, at least for now. Does anyone have any ideas here? Our mechanic … and us … are absolutely bewildered. Even some ideas as to diagnostic paths to explore would be welcome. Our inspirations run, so far, mostly to the ignition switch, maybe it needs replaced. After that, we're in the woods on this. Thanks in advance for any advice, friends. Sam. -
Hey guys. I'm pretty sure I know the problem but wanted a 2nd or 3rd opinion before I spend more money on the problem. 1983 Brat. Past month or so, it would sometimes not start right up, just a clicking sound. If I turned it a few times, it would start up. It's been getting worse and now I have to turn it like 50 times. It hasn't let me down yet and sometimes it gets a little juice and tries to start but then doesn't and goes back to the clicking. When I was doing tune up a few months ago, I noticed that Ignition coil was seeping some oil and my battery cables were mangled. So, I bought new ones and put those in this weekend (thinking mabye it was some bad connections) I also took a wire brush to the connection to the starter itself. Still the same problem. I know the battery and alternator are good, now I've got good connections but still just get the clicking and it's getting worse. I read through the forums that I could find and one question that came up is if the clicking is coming from the Dash area, or from the Engine bay. I'm pretty certain it's coming from the Bay. So, I think it's the starter?? Anyone else have any input? I'm new to working on my own cars so please give detailed troubleshooting steps if needed. Also, any recommendations on Starters?? It's a Fuji in there now and I can't seem to find a replacement Fuji. Thanks, guys.
-
Hello and sorry for the long message. I've been here for a while as a non-member reading other people's posts and following suggestions relating to my '95 Subaru Legacy Wagon (Automatic AWD). My Problems: Are very similar to other people having issues starting my car when hot or after being driven for long or short distance. Car works almost perfectly in the morning and at initial startup (no problems). Drive for 1 hour or so and then park to go inside to work with clients Finish up inside, then come back to leave and head home...car may start after 3 or 4 tries Car also dies after being driven for long distance locally in town or between communities in my areas. When this happens, I can usually pop the hood and wait having the car cool down for 30 or so mins to 1 hour and will crank right up allowing me to finish my drive home As I've mentioned, I've already implemented many changes and updates to my Legacy including many provided by Flatuous Blather suggestions (Thanks bunches) and other peoples suggestions, but still no go and my Legacy still runs intermittent. What seemed to help for a while and then same old same old includes: New Rebuilt Gas Pump (recently swapped 6/23 with used Outback pump with a larger motor) Fixed over two years ago when initial problems occurred...no go and did not help...multiple diagnostics by my mechanic (testing voltage levels, gas pressure, and misc...) New Power Steering Pump - leaking badly, but not directly related to my problems besides fluid getting into Spark Plug Holes and needing cleanup on motor and underneath New Battery, Cables, and Connectors also years ago and recently, but even when new did not fix my problems or improve condition New Spark Plugs and Cables and Coil Pack also replaced Almost every sensor (Coolant Temp, O2, and recently both Crank Position and Camshaft Positions sensors) has been pulled and replaced with new after-market and bone yard pulls (trying to keep costs down years ago) Many many bolts/nuts/connectors that were rusted or corroded (wow I know I live in Florida, but not that close to the beach) Starter replacement (years ago), pulled and bench tested working at Advanced Auto last year, and recent rebuild (finding corrosion on solenoid contacts) replacing with new contacts and plunger parts suggested and still no go at this state Added additional Grounding Cable from Battery to Starter and replaced Positive Battery Terminal to remove older unit and possible problems Starter Relay Addition (thanks for the help) - thought this worked well and only lasted a few hours before same problems...sometimes my car gets lucky. Quick Test and Never Fail button/switch (thanks again Flatuous and many others) - added to Starter Relay above and helps most of the time, but not perfect and only provides an additional option when Keyed on starting fails. Recent changes as of June 23, 2013, I swapped out from my 96 Legacy Outback U-Pull-It volunteer: Fuel Pump - much larger unit with short return line tubing into tank (no problems so far and much less noisy replacing my rebuilt unit swapped years ago) Cleaned/checked all Gas and Vacuum sender and return lines MAF Sensor and Idle Control Valve - swapped with used units that were cleaned and then reinstalled. Also noticed the MAF and ICV both working, but took a while for them to register and level out properly The ignitor - also used replacement...but so far so good! Other Notes: Legacy works and runs MUCH Much better in the winter time...Summers in Florida are miserable without A/C (thank God that is still working) What has not been replaced is the Ignition Switch and possible Neutral/Part Position Sensor, but if this was my problem...the Never Fail Button should resolve these issues Others have mentioned Clogged Catalytic Converters causing similar problems...but checking air pressure shows exhaust volumes as normal and similar to other vehicles Update - also forgot to mention on my previous post...NO Codes being reported...nothing, Nada, and suspect the 95 Legacy simply doesn't report very much Also of note, people have referenced if I tried spraying "small amount of starter fluid into the air intake" and I did this previously, but it only had minor effect, car would not start, and continue to run as normal. (referencing my igniter issues) My Legacy is running much better and I took it for a test drive 30 mins or so to warm things up and plan to wait a hour and test again when the problems usually occur with engine getting hot and then sitting for a hour or two. Update (possibly final update) - looks like one of the options above has finally solved my problem! I suspect my problem was finally either Fuel Pump or Ignitor related, but I'm not going to switch either now they are working just to test my theory. In the end, I went through a bunch of different suggestions, Fuel Sender issues, Clogged/Leaking Fuel/Vacuum Lines, Relays, Sensors, with the final changes listed above. As noted, I got he car hot this afternoon and let it sit as usual for one or two hours as when the issues usually occur. Car cranked and turned over starting without hesitation and on the first try, which never happened before after driving and then sitting for a couple of hours. I'll know more in the coming days when I drive and test things out on a full day of driving in town and will update if I notice anything. I'd also like to hear form everyone on what you think my final problems were??? Thank You and appreciate all the feedback and patience with my efforts and questions! Sorli... -
The starter on my 1986 gl 1.6 engine will not shut off. How do I trouble shoot? Is it ignition issue -
84 Brat Intermittently Grounding Out?
jmoss5723 posted a topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
I did some searching, but I didn't come up with much and electrical issues are my biggest weakness. So if I'm asking dumb questions, please enlighten me with your ingenuity. The car: 1984 Brat with a replaced EA81. When the engine was replaced, some "extras" were removed and I definitely have some wires to nowhere. The issue: Recently, when I turn the key to start the car, 1 of 2 things happen. It either: 1. Starts right up. OR 2. The dash lights up, the battery gauge needle hits about 8-10V and the starter doesn't turn. If it starts and I drive it there are no issues. If I roll start it, jump it with the 50 amp setting on my batter charger, or jump it from another vehicle there are no issues running it and driving it. Once it is running the needle sits just above 12V and everything is great. I got my battery tested. It is supposedly fine. It seems that no matter what, if I drive the car then shut it off, it always starts back up if I try within a few minutes. The questions: Is my starting circuit grounding somewhere intermittently and killing my battery? I'm assuming an intermittent short to ground because sometimes the battery is fine and other times it gets drained very quickly. What should I look for? Edit: I'm not sure if it matters, but the car had been mostly sitting for a year while I worked on it off and on to finish the lift and do some rust repairs to pass inspection. I just started driving it again last week and that is when the issue started. Edited again for grammar. -
After reading a bit on the forums I think I've found out there is an EA81 flywheel with 105 teeth and another with 115 teeth. Here's the story. I bought an EA81 from someone that was out of a BRAT, unknown year. I took it in and had it rebuilt at the machine shop. I used the flywheel that came with it and installed it all into my 81 GL 4x4 Wagon which supposedly has the tranny out of an 83 Wagon. When I try to start up the engine there is a wicked loud knocking sort of grind when it's trying to start up. What appears to be happening is the starter never disengages and keeps grinding against the flywheel. I've gnarled up the flywheel pretty bad, but I think technically it's probably still fine. I tried shimming the starter out with a couple of thick washers, but that doesn't help even remotely. I'll be counting the teeth tonight on both flywheels I have to see if there's a difference. However I'm a bit at my wits end because I've already had to pull this newly rebuilt engine once to have the engine shop fix something they messed up. A friend mentioned maybe changing out the bendix gear on the starter or getting a starter for the 105 tooth version. However I also read that the 115 tooth version is needed to drive all four wheels. Can anyone provide any more illumination? Thanks. Eli
-
so i recently bought a 88 gl wagon with 128XXX on it. The day after i bought it i popped a relay when i went to start it, this was after a short drive across town. i had no idea what was wrong but i narrowed it down to ignition wiring problem. took it to a shop that was familiar with Subaru's and owned one himself, but it still took him 2 week to figure out it was my starter, distributor, just a popped relay. the problem was finding the relay because it was moved from is original spot and put up in the dash. now recently i have been dealing with a starter that has been going out but only like 2 times a week, so i would hit it and it would start. (i know this doesnt last for ever) tonight i did the same thing, but instead of starting. i went to turn the key to find that it has happened again to my car. my stereo works, but no noise when i turn the key, no lights, no dom lamp because its on the same relay. im not a complete idiot when it comes to cars, but im also not super great with them. i joined here cuz i love my wagon its a great car and i need it asap for the snow thats dumping in my local mountains. any ideas what my problem is anyone?!?!?
-
the cool weather has brought back last winter's 'dragging starter problem' in my 06 WRX and, I was hoping someone could guide me to the best rebuild parts. If I'm gonna bust into it, I'll spring for NGK or Denso w'ever people feel is good quality. Never done it before but saw some pics and I think I watched a video. thanx
