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Showing results for tags 'Starting'.
Found 17 results
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Hi, I'm having trouble seems like every time I start my 83 Brat GL 1.8. Put in an expensive Odyssey battery with 850cc amps and installed new cables. I realize it's been cold here in NYC, but for instance today temp outside about 40, car turns over easily but won't fire up. Tried starting fluid in the carb, didn't help. I do notice two things, one of the two radiator fans fires up every time when ignition is on, and the low power lamp comes on the dash in the battery readout. Ideas? Thanks again!
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I'm trying to start a '93 Loyale with SPFI that has had the heads off. The problem is that it won't start. It gets fuel - have seen the injectors spraying in the intake. The #1 spark plug wire fires a timing light so I think there is spark. The engine ran rough for a few seconds initially and now won't run. There have been a few ignitions when I hold the gas pedal all the way down thinking that the problem is that the cylinders are flooded. I'm sure I got the timing belts on correctly - but I will recheck. (Cam sprocket mark up when the flywheel in on the ||| mark.) What I am not too sure of is the initial position of the distributor. I followed the EA82 Service Manual directions in section 2-3 on page 26. I turned the crank to #1 at TDC as noted by the flywheel mark and the cam timing mark being 45deg left of top-center (Fig 44 of the manual). I aligned the marks on the distributor shaft to set the rotor to the #1 cylinder and this matched the #1 spark plug wire. When I insert the shaft into the cam housing with the "feet" of the distributor lined up with their final posiiton, the beveled gears cause the shaft to turn a bit in the clockwise direction. This puts it off the original position. Is that what is supposed to happen? What I did was inserting the distributor so that after it is in and lined up in the ballpark of how it is screwed down, the rotor is pointing to the #1 cylinder terminal. I used the timing light while the engine was cranking (not running, to test connector set), the timing was close to the timing mark at 20 deg BTDC. Is this what is supposed to happen? Also, I don't know where this idle switch is or what the test mode connector is. There are 2 connectors near the fuel filter that were disconnected and I don't remember disconnecting them. Both ends of the wires come out of the same wire bundle at the same point. Under the dash, near the SPFI controller, there are 2 connectors hanging down with nothing to plug in to. Suggestions appreciated.
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I have a 97 legacy that has no electrical power. No lights windows or any other circuits work. Battery tested good. My ground cables have a resistance of .5 amps and im getting power to my starter as well as my fuse box. I checked the fusable link and it seems fine. What main source of power can i check post fuse box? Any hidden fusable links or major relays, fuses i can check? Im tracing wires now but i was hoping someone can give me some guidance -
My wife and I purchased our first Subaru - a 2013 Outback (~56,000 miles) in September 2016. In December, it began to exhibit an intermittent starting issue - the engine cranks (slowly) and fails to start approximately 10% of the time. The issue does not appear to be correlated to temperature. We first took the car to two mechanics who were unable to find any problem. Finally, a Subaru dealer told us that a diagnostic test revealed the car required a long crank update and that that should fix the problem. We paid for the update, but the problem persisted. A few weeks later, we took it back to the same Subaru dealer who told us that another diagnostic test found that the body control module was problematic. We paid for a replacement body control module, but the problem still persists. At this point, we've paid $700 for two misdiagnoses. We are fed up and are wondering if any one may be familiar with this problem and how to fix it. Thanks in advance for your advice. -
Okay, everybody, so I'm having another problem with my '92 Loyale. It was running fine with the new battery and I got the shim for the loose terminal and that was the fix. But now it struggled to start a couple nights ago, and it's been really, really cold out in my area. It gave a good crank and tried to start but died. I tried again and the same thing happened. Tried once more and that time I pumped the gas while I cranked engine and it got started then, but the vehicle vibrated a little and the idle did not start out high but very low. Also there's been a squealing noise too, like maybe a belt on one of the pulleys? Once the engine warms up the squeal usually stops. After that I was able to start the car fine each time but there's this problem of it idling really low. Any answers, guys? Could it be the arctic weather that caused the problem? Too much cold weather affecting the engine and components? And what can I do about it? I don't think the timing slipped because I got that fixed already last year, brand new timing belt and new plugs and distributor. I saw one of Scotty Kilmer's vids about using an idle throttle cleaner that could solve the problem, but what does my situation seem like to you guys? -
Grrr...very frustrated. The wagon was running just fine. I was headed for the coast to do some camping and beach clean-up. I stopped for a cup of coffee, and *click*- nothing else. Jump-start did nothing. I cajoled a good citizen into helping me push-start it (LOVE me some stick-shift!), and i was on my way. I got back home on less gas than I expected to use, and lo-and-behold the starter has a lifetime warranty. Out with the old one, in with the new one, and...*click*. Sonofa----- Now what? I should have time to go at it again on Saturday, so what's the game plan? Again, it was running fine, and it starts right up if I roll it and pop a gear. -
Greetings all, 2003 Subaru Legacy (non-wagon). Initially had intermittent starting issues. If left to sit or most times a jump-start would fix it. New battery, same issue. New starter, would not start at all. Battery terminals and fuses all appear good. Ignition switch lights all indicators. In key starting position, does not give a loud solenoid click like I would expect. Voltmeter on ignition lead to starter gives me about 2v with key in the starting position. Key in start position does not dim or otherwise affect other indicators. If key is in run position, I can start car with a jumper between the battery and the ignition spade on the starter solenoid. Have pulled the steering column lower shroud and have 12v on the of the 4 terminals on the ignition switch when in the run position. In start position, the 4th position gets 12v and one of the existing positions that had 12 in run drops to about 2v. Bridging between contacts on the back of the start switch does not roll the starter. Reading codes did show a P1518 (ignition start low) which has not come back since cleared. Picking up a manual later today, but looking for ideas on where to look. A lot of suggestions pointing to a starter relay, which I'm yet to be able to find. Other suggestions point to the park/neutral switch - some say is accessed by moving the shroud by the shifter, others from below on the side of the tranny - not sure where to look for either one. Running the gear-shift through the gears with the key in start position has no effect, other than you can hear a relay "clunk" whenever you go to pull it out of park. Any ideas on how to narrow this down further guys? Thanks, Rob -
Siiiiiighhhh. Okay, so now I'm having another problem with my Subaru Loyale. When I try to turn the ignition off, the key won't come out. It will turn as far as cutting off, but not to the full off position. I use the method the manual tells me, to reach under the steering wheel and put your finger in the hole where you toggle the little button inside that releases the key, and it does. But I just wanna know WHY this is happening and what to do about it? And is it dangerous to keep driving?
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I have a 91 Legacy wagon which constantly has issues with starting. Normally if it has been sitting for a few hours without being driven then it will start up just fine, but if I drive it somewhere and then turn it off and try starting it again shortly afterwards, it will not stay started. The only way I have found to make it stay started when I am having trouble is to press on the accelerator as I am starting it, and then I have to leave my foot on the accelerator for a few minutes to keep the car from turning off again. I recently got a new battery, had the alternator checked (it was said to be fine), new fuel pump, ecm repaired, fuel intake system cleaned and new fuel filter, new air control valve, and plenty of other repairs along with it. Everything is perfectly fine with the car as far as I can tell, so unless there is something else that someone can think of which may be causing the issues I am having, then I have no idea what could be wrong other than it is simply an old car and that alone could be causing problems. I have already put over $1,500 worth of work into this vehicle since the problems started, and I am not ready to try anything else unless it is cheap or easy. Can anyone can suggest anything that I can possibly try to fix the problem which may be cheap or easy to do? Aside from that I will probably unfortunately just have to cut my losses and get rid of the car. The air intake hose was replaced in October, so I doubt if that is the issue even though it sounds like a likely culprit. -
I have a 91 Subaru Legacy and it will not stay started when I start it unless it has been sitting for awhile, for example overnight. But if for instance I drive to the store and then shut off the engine and go inside and then come back out and try to start it again, then it will not stay started when I try to leave unless I give it gas at startup and I also have to keep my foot on the gas for several minutes to keep it from shutting off. I just had the following work done on it among other things: engine control module replaced, o2 sensor replaced, fuel pump replaced, fuel filter replaced and entire fuel system cleaned, air intake system cleaned/repaired. This along with everything else that was done came to over $1,500, and the car was in the shop for well over a month. Needless to say I do not want to take it back to the shop or invest any more money in it at this point. However I am curious to know what else could be causing it to not stay started aside from the things that I have already had looked at/replaced. I realize that it is an older car, but up until a few months ago I wasn't having any issues at all with it. I initially took it to the shop only because sometimes it wouldn't start at all unless I started it with my foot on the gas, but that only happened sometimes (though it did begin to occur more and more frequently and had gotten pretty bad by the time I took it to the shop). Is there something else that I could possibly do myself to fix the issue that I am having without spending an insane amount of money? Also, is it hurting the car to keep driving it even though it is doing what it is doing? I only still drive it like that because I have no other transportation at the moment. I also know it isn't the battery because I just had the battery replaced earlier this year, and all of the lights and other functions (radio, e.t.c.) work just fine. Side note: Not sure if this is an issue either, but if I turn the engine off and just sit with the key turned in the ignition (in the position just before starting the engine), then I hear a humming sound coming from the car which usually only seems to stop if I completely remove the key from the ignition.
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Alright, so after 7 months I have finally got my car running again. I asked a friend of my mom's to give it one more jump the day after Thanksgiving, and this time I let the car run for almost 2 hours to get the battery charged up. So it's not an alternator or battery problem like some here were saying, but now the only problem is that every time I go to turn the key, there is a delay for some seconds before the car actually starts/cranks. Anybody have any idea what that could be? Starter relay? Ignition switch? The starter itself? The starter is new and was put in back in April but may not necessarily mean it's good. Anybody have any idea?
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I literally just registered here, so, hello. I spent some time lurking, trying to find information but it didn't work out so well. Anyway, I drove into a guy's tow hitch at about 10 mph yesterday and the car shut off... and won't start now. There was minor damage to the front end, everything got pushed in on the drivers side a couple inches, the radiator was broken, and the bumper sits crooked now, but the hood still latches and the fan and everything behind it is fine.. everything should be good once I install the new radiator either later today or tomorrow. But still, the problem remains.. I can not start the car. It will turn over, the starter has no problems.. I have spark and everything.. I don't think it's getting fuel. I have read different things about whether the 1988 DL's have an inertial cutoff switch, been told to check around the back of the car, etc. I spent hours looking yesterday and couldn't find a damn thing. SO I have come here, to seek help from people who know these cars. Does my car have one? Not sure if it matters but it's FWD and 5 speed. Or maybe it's something else? The fuel lines in the engine bay are all in tact.. I haven't removed one to check if there is fuel in it yet because I have just assumed it's not getting fuel and don't want to do the work.. The fuses are all fine, too. I'd like to have my car back running ASAP since it's my daily driver. Any help is appreciated guys! -
It is a 2000 "Forester S" automatic with 270K miles. I replace the gasket on the water pump yesterday. After that, I put all the parts that needed to be removed back together to get the engine like it was before this project. At that point the engine would not start. The engine will turn over, so the battery is working. I pulled off the fuel hose off the injection tube and turn the key to the start position... At that point, fuel was pushed out, so it seems that the fuel pump is working and the engine is getting fuel. I checked all the fuses and none of them are broken and all work. I also charged the battery to insure it was working... it was working and I tried to start it by jumping the battery during the starting try... the engine turned over like normal but it still didn't start. Am I missing something? What could I try to solve the issue? Thanks -
I have a 91 Legacy wagon which has been having startup issues on occasion. I usually manage to get it started by attempting to start it with my foot on the gas pedal, but when it starts it usually sputters for awhile and often turns off again. When I just turn the key in the ignition prior to starting it, I always hear a humming sound, and I wonder if that sound is related to or indicates the fuel pump may be going bad? Also whenever I drive the car it often has trouble accelerating especially after I've stopped at a stoplight. I just had the oil changed and had the fuel filter replaced and fuel system cleaned at the shop 3 days ago, and they also did diagnostics. But they didn't say anything about a faulty fuel pump, or maybe they didn't even consider it. Either way this all cost me over $300 already, so I just wonder if anyone has any ideas or suggestions before I spend any more money. Thank you all.
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Our car, a 1986 GL Wagon, has an aggravating problem, having to do with starting. The car will start fine for any random number of times, then, with no warning or advance symptoms, it will refuse to start. After sitting for anywhere from 1 to 3 days, it will start back up again for an indeterminate amount of time, after which the no-start problem will show up again. During the times it doesn't start, when the key is turned fully into the start postion, we observe the following: No dash lights No map light (front overhead dome light) No head lights Radio does get power Overhead lights and 4-ways work The horn works There is no response from the starter at all, not even a click Today we had the car towed across town. It had sat, unwilling to start, exhibiting the symptoms above, for three straight days. We tested the car before the tow … no start, no joy (the last time this happened, the problem resolved itself overnight). The car was towed, and dropped at the mechanic. When we attempted to start the car after the car was dropped, to demonstrate for the mechanic … it started normally and ran normally. After thoroughly reviewing the status of all the fuses (including the ones under the hood), It's now back in our driveway and the hard part is we paid for a tow to no end, at least for now. Does anyone have any ideas here? Our mechanic … and us … are absolutely bewildered. Even some ideas as to diagnostic paths to explore would be welcome. Our inspirations run, so far, mostly to the ignition switch, maybe it needs replaced. After that, we're in the woods on this. Thanks in advance for any advice, friends. Sam. -
So after finishing up the weber swap and starting to crank it over, it cranked for a while and sounded good, giving it a few tries to get the fuel all through the system, then all the sudden no power anywhere. No lights, nothing. Battery is good. Good connections to the wires coming off the terminals. All the fuses inside the car are good. So I'm stumped a because I don't know much about all the electrical wiring.. What should I check along the wires or fuses?? Thank you for any help
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My Subaru impreza outback has started taking around ten-15 trys to start, i turn the key and nothing happens i can hear a click and the dash light come on but the car doesnt turn over. Sometimes it starts after just 1 try and sometimes it starts after 2-more, it happens everytime i go to start it even after its been runing and is warmed up. i was just wondering if anyone else has had this problem; i am pretty sure it isnt the starter or battary since both are new.
