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Showing results for tags 'Strut'.
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So, I've got the same issue in three of our family's Subies, all wagons. At the rear wheel well, reach up under the fender and into the strut tower on the outside of the coil, under the window and you can stick your fingers thru a nice, long rust hole... guessing along a seam in the metal from the way it feels. You can push and feel weakness in the metal around the hole. Reaching around to the areas in front, behind and to the inside of the strut / coil feels solid. A mechanic has said maybe he could get us a year on the worst one, a 97 Wagon GT. Others speak similar doom and gloom. But then I discovered the same issue on our 1995 L Wagon, which is in excellent condition otherwise. Our 1999 L Ann. Edition is a rust bucket anyway, and it's similar in the towers. Both the 99 and 95 have been good, regular daily drivers, and the 95 in particular should have a lot of life left in it otherwise. So.... from the experts here, I seek prognosis..... Doctors? Tell it to me straight..... 1) How long have we got? 1 year, 3 years? 2) How can we tell how bad it actually is? Is the fact that it seems only outboard and not all the way around the tower a good sign? 3) Is this something that can be fixed, or is it normally too expensive to be worth while Thanks for your input.... as always! Mike
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I have a 2" lift spacer that I am trying to install on the front strut of my 2001 Legacy wagon 5-speed to increase ground clearance. The sway bar was disconnected for this procedure. The bottom bolt which connects the strut to the hub will go in, however I am unable to pivot the hub in enough for the upper bolt to line up. The most force I've applied was with a c-clamp when the strut spacer was installed and the lower bolt that connects the strut to the hub was in place. However the upper bolt does not line up. The c-clamp was to squeeze the hub and back of the strut to theoretically squeeze the holes into alignment. The clamp fit nice, but the hole seemed as if it would not align before the strut cylinder bent from the clamp pressure: so I stopped. Note that as the clamp was being tightened, the axle was being pulled (not compressed) by the hub as it pivoted on the lower strut bolt. Has anyone else had this problem? How was it resolved? Thanks in advance.
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Hey all, FNG here. My daughter inherited a 1995 Legacy L from my son and the struts are shot. It bounces so bad I won't let her drive it. My problem is I can't find a full set of loaded struts anywhere. Struts are no problem but I want springs, mounts, and all. Is there a reason no one seems to offer these or am I just to dumb to find them? I'm not interested in anything that will screw up the geometry and cause tire wear. Thanks!
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I’ve bought a 1991 AWD Legacy LS Special wagon for a teen driver’s first car. It’s got a leak in the front air shocks. What is the most cost effective way to repair/ replace? I’m $1500 in and this car only has 98k miles on it, so a lot of potential life, but an inexperienced driver. Can they be swapped out for regular shocks or is there an affordable aftermarket air option? Should I look for struts from a junk yard? Is it worth it to pay $600 per strut to Subaru for their replacement parts?
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Hi y'all, I've done a lot of searching on this subject, and I was led to believe Forester struts are a direct swap onto a 98 Legacy (non-Outback), to give a little lift. I bought a set of FCS complete strut assemblies (for an 05 Forester) and brought them to a local shop for install on my 98 Legacy. They say they will not bolt on. What am I missing? Did I get the wrong year Forester struts, or do I need to swap out top hats or something? Maybe I should've just gone with '98 Outback struts/springs? Thanks so much for the help! :)
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The body of my GL wagon is sitting 3/4" low on the front driver's side. The struts are old/original, so I plan on replacing them to (hopefully) level things out. My mechanic wonders if the front driver's spring may have lost its temper and is part of the height problem, is this possible? If so, where do I find a new front spring?
- 5 replies
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- strut
- ride height
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After doing some searching myself, I find that there's some good info out there among the Subie sites on swapping newer Suspension components into older Subies. I'm looking to swap out my city beaten 98 GF8 suspension, so I've done some info gathering and have come up with a pool of useful links for your typical GC8 or GF8 swaps. Maybe you'd like a lift for trail trekking, nab some Fozzie struts (Forester). Most Subie compents will bolt up, if not with some coaxing. I'd like to hear from some members that have done these kinds of swaps themselves, on what worked out for them and what didn't. Ideally, I'd appreciate a first hand account of the work and end result. http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showpost.php?p=18820009&postcount=7 General info on modifying the suspension on 93-2001 Impreza's of all trims Which came from this "will this suspension part fit my x Subaru?" http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?p=18820009#post18820009 http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/118004-the-unofficial-how-to-lift-your-impreza-thread/ the-unofficial-how-to-lift-your-impreza-thread http://www.rs25.com/forums/f105/t70898-diy-strut-spring-install-pics.html diy-strut-spring-install http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1589951 Assembling front strut http://bbs.legacycentral.org/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=45743 Info on Legacy strut top hats and springs, needed to fit GD WRX rear struts into a GC8/GF8 (at least that's one route) http://www.rs25.com/forums/f9/t109573-forester-struts-impreza-gc8.html forester-struts-impreza-gc8 http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2279833 What USDM Springs/Struts Will Fit a JDM '94 GC8? http://www.rs25.com/forums/f24/t96397-04-wrx-suspension-into-gf8.html http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1980173 GD suspension on a GC http://www.rs25.com/forums/f9/t200479-02-wrx-front-struts-l-rear.html Saggy rear, wrx front struts and stock rear struts http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1429052 Trailing link install tutorial
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GOD BLESS US EVERYONE!!!! IT'S A CHRISTMAS MIRACLE!!! I love my girlfriend so much. She knows just what makes my heart beat. I guess I'm being dramatic.....but this is the happiest I've been opening a christmas gift since my first bike when I was 5 years old. Anyhow.....Here's the details....Puchased through Autozone. Sachs part # 031-168 Must look them up for either 85/86 4wd wagon w/vin 5 carbed engine. Tiny Tim won't need those crutches anymore!
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Howdy, we have the 2005, and it needs suspension work. I am pretty handy and well equipped, and use the lifts at the garage on a military base - however, this is new to me. The garage has a strut / spring compressor mounted to the wall I can use. I need some recommendations for the best way to go about that. Should I just buy replacement struts with the coil (front) and the similar full assembly set up for the rear ? Or should I buy only the struts (front) and shocks (rear) and then reuse the coils ? I reviewed some of the info about ghostwalking, which is not an issue we have experienced. In the solutions area it says... Solution #3: Replace worn rear dampers. The 2005-2009 chassis dampers (struts/shocks) are notorious for premature wear. The rear end is the worst with a floatly/bouncy feeling after only a few years of use. The fix is to replace the rear shocks with a more robust aftermarket brand like KYB Excel-G/GR-2. Using the 2003-2004 chassis rear KYB shocks is a popular option because they stiffen the rear end considerably and are 100% compatible with the 2005-2009 cars. See the main suspension FAQ thread for more info. Would that be the best way to go at this point ?? I am not sure what a "damper" is, unless they are referring to the entire shock / strut assembly. They mention only the shocks, so are they reusing the spring coil ? Any other recommended struts or shocks, or should I stay with OEM from Subi ? Thank you, C
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2002 Forester 5MT 210,000-km I am ready to replace my rear suspension struts. The FSM says to disconnect the rear brake-hose from the caliper, and to tape the hose out of the way. Is this necessary? I would prefer not to have to re-bleed the brakes after I've finished. So can I leave the brake-hose connected to the caliper, and just support the rear-axle and brake hub/rotor assembly? Will this give me enough room to remove and reinstall the strut? I haven't done Subaru struts before, so any help would be appreciated.
- 11 replies
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- forester
- rear suspension
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Good afternoon All, I have been looking around for specific dimensions of strut towers for a lift (3"). I haven't found much, and I have asked a few people which went no where. So here it is, I did some measuring, modeling, and drafting and this is what I came up with. Please let me know how I did? If I need to make changes let me know... Best, Lewis
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How in the bloody hell do I uncover the rear strut towers in my 90 wagon? am trying to remove struts and put on coil sleeves. where the codswalloping codswallop is the magic button that uncovers the tops?
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Back in March I had put a set of outback struts in my 2001 legacy L and I bought them used but they were supposed to be new. Well anywho today on the way home I had one explode and come apart while I was going down the road. I use my car every day to travel around and work on farm equipment and need it to be fixed ASAP so I was wondering if anyone could tell me where the best place is to get a complete strut assembly or quick strut, Advance Auto doesn't carry a complete strut for my car, Thanks, Luke
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Hi USMB members- I just picked up an '89 GL wagon. The driver's side front tire is "toeing out" bad. I replaced the stabilizer bar underneath as it appeared bent but it did not fix. Alignment shop won't align and says it's either arm or strut but I think they truly didn't know. I like fixing my own stuff anyway but not sure what to do on this. Will a new strut solve this. I attached a picture I don't know how well it will show the toe-out. Nothing appears to be bent or out of the ordinary on the arm. Thanks in advance for any replies/advice.