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So, I've recently come into a problem. I've noticed an intermittent whirring/whistling noise coming from the center/center-bottom of the dash. Almost sounds as if there's a cd in a disc-player rotating at a high speed. I don't have a cd-player, and I've also removed the fuse from the radio, and the noise still comes. Anyway, when the noise comes on, it follows the RPMs of the motor. If I depress the accelerator, the noise gets louder. While idling (and noise present), if I press on the brake pedal the lights pretty much completely cut out, and the motor almost dies. In the videos you can hear the noise, and see the idle responses. It frequency of brake-taps is consistent with the motor behavior. ALSO, if I turn on the hazard lights, the idling bobbing/cutting with the lights cutting follows the frequency of the hazards and/or turn signals. When the whirring goes away, the symptoms are gone. Do I all of a sudden have a really bad ground? All lights are functional; nothing out. '98 OBW with 251/25D hybrid Recent work (past 6 months): New OEM MAF New OEM TPS New OEM ignition coil New OEM plugs New OEM wires New OEM 5mt neutral switch New OEM 5mt reverse light switch New Fuel pump relay (symptoms were present before I went playing under the dash) Done in the past two years: fuel pump fuel filter Timing belt New OEM Cam Gears I'm pretty bad at electrical diagnostics, any suggestions/advice would help. Battery has 12.5v just sitting. 12.8v while idling. Thanks for your time folks, Greg -
Hi all. In a pinch. Currently stranded in Golden/Denver Colorado. Vehicle: 1998 Outback engine: ej251/25D hybrid Story: swapped a great running motor from my rusty '96 to this '98. In the process I put a NEW timing kit, NEW oem plugs, new oil pump, new clutch-kit/slave cyl., new oil pressure sender... ran beautifully all the way here from South Dakota, with many trips up and down the canyons from Hwy 119 to the Front Range. Two days ago, CEL came on and I stopped at an auto parts store. Got two misfire codes, and not having noticed any symptoms I cleared it. It coincided with using the a/c, so I moved the a/c harness off of/away from the spark plug wire. I figured something may have arced. No issues until trying to climb out of Denver up I-70 yesterday. CEL came on and flashed a few times. Pulled the car immediately to the side of the road and was turned off. Oil light did NOT come on. Symptoms came. Horribly shaky idle, no power. I checked all spark plugs (on the side of the road), and they were tight, and looked in okay condition. Idles like it is missing cylinders. While idling I pulled off/on all spark plug wires and injectors. No difference (except VERY minor idle-up for 1 second) with cylindees 1/3. Motor dies when 2/4 are pulled. Got towed to a local dealership and they were nice enough tp read the codes. P0261, and P0267 I believe this is Low/No voltage to cylinders 1 & 3 injectors. (In my frenzy I installed a new coil, and new spark plug wires) I took a volt meter to the yellow wire of each injector plug, with ignition switched to ON. 2 & 4 get 12v, 1 & 3 are dead. I tried directly wiring the yellow wires to the battery, and there was no difference in engine performance. Where/what should be my next step? Is it true that the injectors get constant power, but the ECU/ECM adjusts the pulse timing via internal grounds? I'll be looking at diagrams today to try and get this going...any suggestions will help. I'm supposed to be getting towed back up to Gilpin County where I'll have a garage to sit in. Thank you in advance for any suggestions! Greg
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I recently picked up a 95 Impreza L coupe with an EJ18. From idle to ~2500rpm it hesitates, jerks, and misses. Once it is above that rpm range, it runs great. I have searched threads for two weeks and tried multiple "standard fixes" with no results. I'm tired of throwing parts at it and Any help would be appreciated. So far I've checked the plugs (newish but looks lean), repl wires, repl fuel filter, repl throttle position sensor. This engine does not have a knock sensor (not that I could find anyway). -
Just installed a Weber 32/36 DEGV this weekend. I wasn't sure what to do with the vacuum port on the EGR, so I left it alone. Drove 300 miles home just fine and super smooth. Got in touch with Weber and they said to remove the screw-type plug from the front left port on the Weber, so I did. Hooked a vacuum line from that port directly to the Weber last night. This morning on the way to work, the car would hesitate and/or stumble, no noise, just bog down a bit on the acceleration and randomly pick back up. Ran fine yesterday, so I unplugged the vacuum line to the EGR. Now it runs super smooth again. Forgot to add, EGR was recently cleaned, and the intake EGR ports were cleaned during the Weber install. EGR seems to operate properly, opening and closing as I rev the throttle up and down. So, I've read that keeping the EGR is ideal, but not necessary. Am I missing something on the install, I thought it should be direct from Weber to EGR? Any explanation would be appreciated. Thx all. EA81 GL 2dr Hatch -
I know it's been asked before, and I've read the responses, but I'm still at a loss. My 83 Brat has an intermittent problem of stumbling upon acceleration. It occurs whether the car is warm or cold. It seems to stumble only with slow acceleration and if I step on it, it surges and opens up, feels smooth. Doesn't seem to lack power overall and idles decently enough once it's warmed up. Stock Hitachi carb. So far, in attempt to fix this issue and just because it needed it, I have replaced both fuel filters, air filter, spark plug wires, spark plugs(with new NGK, properly gapped), new distributor, put a bunch of heet and seafoam through it to clean out any gunk or water and checked for vacuum leaks by spraying starting fluid around the intake manifold and vacuum hoses (no change in idle speed noted). I also only run 89 octane or higher fuel. Im thinking it could be a partially clogged jet in the carb. Maybe some other jet opens up with more throttle and thats why it only occurs at low throttle. I haven't opened up a hitachi, but I would be willing to rebuild it if that would help. And no, I'm not getting a Weber. I've gotten 31 mpg with the Hitachi properly tuned. Any advice would be appreciated. Let me know if more info is needed. Thanks yall.