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Showing results for tags 'Subaru legacy'.
Found 10 results
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Hello, car was running fine yesterday but today got a crank with no start. Went through the typical. Spark, fuel And fuses And it has all. The intake isn’t sucking a lot of air. It does have some suction but not a crap ton. Any ideas on how to get it running again? -
Hello, car was running fine yesterday but today got a crank with no start. Went through the typical. Spark, fuel And fuses And it has all. The intake isn’t sucking a lot of air. It does have some suction but not a crap ton. Any ideas on how to get it running again?
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As I have lost my original threads thanks to Photobucket's nonsense, we will start anew. I introduce my 1996 Subaru Legacy LSi, which I have for over a year now. The road to glory has been a good one so far and time will reveal more greatness for this car. Here is what was done to my car during the high compression EJ22D project in the past year: Engine: EJ20D heads, valves, and valve springs (1997). EJ25D big plenum manifold (1996 LSi stock). EJ25D wiring harness (1996 LSi stock). EJ253 water pump (2006). EJ222 block and head gaskets. EJ205 oil pump (detailed). EJ257 coolant crosspipe and sensor. EJ257 timing assembly and extra roller. EJ257 oil pan. EJ257 Moroso oil pickup. Gates blue teflon belt (DO NOT BUY THESE). Tomei timing belt guide. VMS lightweight crank pulley (1lbs). Grimmspeed intake manifold spacers w/bolts. All new seals and bolts. Self milled heads via sanding. Lightly ground intake ports. Refreshened and seated valves. 4 extra straight pins for head gasket and head security (Str8 mod). Custom head bolt torque sequence (2lbs tighter on the last 3 rules). 1st generation Subaru Legacy engine cover and brackets. EGR disable. Ignition: Started with Dodge 420A coil, then upgraded to MSD 8239, then further up to the Accel super coil for the SRT-4. Body: 1999 Outback SUS bumper covers, front bumper brace, and grille. Lights: JDM RS front headlights with HID system. Sequential front turn signal lighting. Rear USDM w/VNT red paint. Exhaust: Early UEL w/2.5in catback to unknown muffler (we'll call it the Noemi Spec C). Electronics: WRX radio. Raizin voltage stabilizer. New Sony xPlod rear speakers. Interior: 1997 Outback SUS Safari woodgrain trim (actual laminated wood). Steering: 2004 STi steering rack. L&E Fabrications steering wheel to rack conversion joint. Rallitek steering rack poly bushings. How the car looks today. -
Hi everyone! I've got my heart on getting a Subaru for my first car, and I really like this legacy wagon. Its a single mom selling it and shes only asking $1200! She's really sweet and I like the car but it has issues. Here's a picture of the engine codes. Looks like some misfires going on for some reason and the transmission has issues. Looks like its low on ATF so it might just need a flush and fill. How much/how hard would it be to fix these things? Engine was rebuilt 15k she says, and it seems to run fine, asside from a misfire when I shift into reverse. Thanks everyone! Just let me know if you need more info! http://s1310.photobucket.com/user/DragonsOfDrakul/media/13819727_1096675567070854_1765315533_zpsxz7mibbs.jpg.html Here are the written codes if the URL doesn't work. PO, 500, 740 Speed sensor and TCC CKT electrical, 301, 303, 302, 304 (301-4 are misfire alerts in all four cylinders) , 400 and 743 EGR flow and TCC CKT electrical. Also it failed air injection? Smog was good. Also ABS light is on :/ -
I recently picked up a nice rust free 1997 Legacy 2.2 with a broken timing belt. I’ve gotten it started a few times but I am convinced the timing is still off. I was wondering if anyone on this page could offer any additional help. Things I know: Car is vinned as a 97 Inspection plates states that it was manufactured in August of 96 Motor is an ej22, non-interference motor – confirmed by grooved and stamped valve covers. Timing belt was broken while running. No other work has been performed on the vehicle since the timing belt was broken. Vehicle is not currently throwing any codes. Things I was told: Vehicle was running well with no check engine light on prior to timing belt breaking. Since I’ve taken possession of the car I have replaced the timing belt. The belt shows the appropriate amount of teeth, 44 to the passenger side, 40.5 to the driver side from crank notch. All the ears are present on the crank sprocket, I’ve lined the hash on the rear of the crank sprocket to the hash by the crank position sensor (approx. 12 o’clock) with the keyway facing down. I’ve lined the cam gears up with the belt, with the hash mark on the face of the gear facing upwards in the 12 o’clock position, in line with the notch in the timing belt cover. In this configuration the tdc triangle on the crank is in the 3 o’clock position, and the tdc arrows on the cams are up and to the right, 45 degrees clockwise from tdc. All pulleys, pumps, and idlers spin freely, tensioner is not leaking oil and takes a couple minutes in a vise to reset with a pin. I’ve had this timing belt on and off close to ten times, with at least 5 sets of eyes (all car guys and two professional mechanics) to verify timing. I’ve spun the crank multiple times and rechecked timing. Car has occasionally started, but starts hard and runs rough. While attempting to start, and performing the wot/clear cylinder procedure, and then applying half throttle, car pops and back fires violently. All of my experience leads me to believe the car is still out of time. There are a lot of knowledgeable guys on this forum, I’m hoping one of you can point me in the right direction. I’ve working on cars my entire life, and have an entire professional mechanics shop at my disposal. Any advice would be appreciated.- 11 replies
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Can I fit a 2010 legacy automatic transmission on a 2002 Forester. What would be the differences. -
Hi all, first time posting, seems like a great community. The problem: I have a 2001 Subaru legacy L. It has 190K on it, mostly highway miles. It needs its head gaskets done, but I just took it into a shop and the repairman said it wasn't looking too bad, they were seeping but not leaking. Driving home from work yesterday it started to overheat for the first time, temperature gauge got up to H but did not redline. Managed to coast pretty much all the way home (downhill) and let it sit in my driveway for awhile. Checked the oil and coolant levels and they both appear to be fine. Oil is maybe a tad high (slightly above F). Took off the radiator cap (with engine cool) and it bubbled and then was still. It seems like there are little copper flecks in there, not sure what those are from or what they indicate. Don't seem to see any of the notorious white sludge in my coolant that would indicate that the head gaskets have blown. Recently (May) replaced the radiator and thermostat, so I wouldn't think those would be the problem, although I'm not too sure on the longevity of thermostats. Looking for some help on diagnosing the problem! Might just be time to go get the head gaskets done? Thanks for any help! -
hey guys i drive a Subaru legacy the body is a 98 but the motor is a 90. ive been driving it for awhile and the oil has always been good. last night i was driving when i stopped at the light, sitting in netural then to first and work my way to 2nd gear i was going up a moderate hill when my car literally lost all its fire. the car didn't die or shut off. it just simply stopped accelerating. its not the alternator or the coil. and it tries to turn over but theres not enough spark. any ideas on what it could be? this is my first subi so im not knowledgeable enough yet..lol -
I have a 1993 subaru legacy. It's an automatic 2.2 liter. It has 191,xxx miles on it, and it was well taken care of by the previous owner. I have owned it for about a month now, and mind you I am a BRAND NEW driver (2 months) and this is my 2nd car. According to my mechanic husband I should get 20 miles to the gallon. Last time I filled up I reset my trip mile counter thing, and I am now at a quarter tank after 90 miles. Since it's a 15.9 gallon tank, 11.9 gallons for 3/4 of a tank, that is about 7.5 miles per gallon... I am hoping there is something obvious I am missing. After I bought it there was an electrical wire problem with the starter, which was fixed, and then the alternator went out, which was also replaced with a brand new one. I use as little heat as possible to try to conserve gas (however I do live in Alaska), and I am NOT a speed racer whatsoever - I always drive the speed limit if not slower. (I hate driving) My check engine light HAS been on as long as I've had the car, and my car SUPER hates the cold mornings - I always have to start it a couple times to get it going. Ideas? Suggestions? Help? Please? Pretty please? PS - Why are the fuel tank measurement lines (on the dash) so uneven/disproportionate? Is that related? -
Also pictured is Nick W's new 86 brat GL. I am sure he will be loggin on soon enough. 1995 Subaru Legacy L FWD only 200k miles. Nicest driving car i have ever owned. Has all the bells and whistles and they all work. GOOOOO SUBARU go go go go till i got 600k miles
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