Search the Community
Showing results for tags 'Subaru loyale'.
Found 9 results
-
I'm pretty sure this is issued because the car is running rich and I have a check engine light to how can i find one -
Test light success. It turns out that the 1993 model quietly had it's wiring changed around. Many sources online I have found claim for the constant 12V to be on the red/green pins and the illumination on solid red (which consequently, also attach to two pin connector with the same colored wires). This is WRONG. Test lighting the supposed red/green and red wires at the connector will show there is no power through these wires, despite them being connected to both the stock head unit's harness and the two pin connector coming off it and back to the car, regardless of key state (off, accessory, on). The blue yellow wire (pin one) will only power in accessory and on positions. Thus, 12V switched (or ignition as it can be labeled on aftermarket diagrams) has been located. Last, but certainly not least, is the mystery one pin connector with a white clip. It is ORANGE from the stock unit, and at the car side, changes to GREEN. Putting a test light to it in off will show power, as well as all other key states EXCEPT start (engine crank, this is normal). This is the constant 12V (or battery connection) that is SUPPOSED to be the red/green wire (or perhaps, only applies to years prior; I can only speculate why Subaru did this and won't begin to). So, let's recap. Constant 12V - Orange from stock unit, green after single pin connector (aftermarket manuals may call this 'battery') Switched 12V - Blue on stock unit, blue/yellow after eleven pin connector (aftermarket manuals may call this 'ignition') Ground - Black on both sides of eleven pin connector Wires in question: http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/w482/tincan93/Mobile%20Uploads/20141116_070451.jpg - Constant 12V http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/w482/tincan93/Mobile%20Uploads/20141116_070352.jpg - Switched 12V http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/w482/tincan93/Mobile%20Uploads/20141116_070410.jpg - Ground Of course, the result will become clear when you jam it all in the dashboard and turn the key on: There is no illumination, nor remote power on lead for the amplifier (unless you installed one), and the power antenna wire is also unused (again, unless you installed one). Again, I used a test light and checked everything in each state of ignition. I know this gets searched up a lot online, but I'm not responsible for what you do to your vehicle, nor can I confirm if this will work in your scenario. That being said, use caution and common sense. Hopefully you can make use of this information if you decide to install an aftermarket stereo.
-
I have a 1990 Subaru loyale with a no start no spark I’ve replaced ignition distributor made sure it is properly wired the only thing is the ignition pulse if I’ve done the test right with a test light. there is no pulse. There is also other random stuff that doesn’t work on the car , lights, dash light etc. I wondering if it is infact the ecu that isn’t working and if not other things it would be side note there is no check engine light or codes -
I have a no start I thinks it’s from my Ignition coil transistor but I’m not sure can someone tell me where I can buy one
-
I have a 90 loyale that has a no start I have replaced the coil and there is no spark right after the coil I am wondering what these plug goes too will show in picture it is the same kind of plug that plugs in the the transistor the weird thing on the ig coil bracket
-
Hi there, I've read a few threads already but I want to get some things straight because I'm not a mechanic. I have a 92' Loyale Wagon, SPFI, 5spd manual, 130k Original Km's (80k miles). Codes show 24 and 34. (http://www.troublecodes.net/subaru/) 24 Air control valve or circuit 34 EGR solenoid or circuit The car starts every time, Idles a bit high on cold start (but only owned it since the beginning of winter so not sure how it idles normal in warmer temps), seems like it struggles at about 110+ km/h (70mph) but I understand it's not a fast car. No funny sounds coming from engine. Based on my web knowledge about vacuum leaks it doesn't seem to be a vacuum leak. So it must be these valves/solenoid? Reading a bit more stuff I found out the Air control Valve and EGR Valve can build up carbon deposits. My question is: If I replace just the Air Control Valve and the EGR solenoid will that clear the codes? For the Air Control Valve code - Will carbon build up in the throttle body or in ACV trigger the check engine code? For the EGR code - Will a dysfunctional/clogged EGR valve trigger the CEL or is it just the solenoid? I understand if I replace the valves and give it a little TLC, its probably good for the long run. But want to get your guys input and solutions for more confidence and less frustration when the doing job A lot of the threads tend to go into more technical stuff or are just very basic and old so I decided to start a new thread. Thanks for reading Randolph. -
ive been looking for a traction adding device for my 90 loyale, with lockers non existant, and linited slips expensive and complocated, i want to use the breaks as a traction adding device. I want to add line lock solenoids to each rear break line. if I lift a wheel and loos traction, I can energies the solenoid on the wheel in the air and transfer power to the wheel on the ground. has anybody ever tried this before? do you think the carrier and axels can handle the stress?
-
Just picked up a '93 Loyale last week for a 400 bucks. Its a bit rusty but seems structurally in great shape. 190 000 km and all the electrics are working! Took a couple pictures but have been pulling it apart to do some work. Pulled the bumper and started getting the lights off to clean them up and bend the bumper back as its been smashed a bit by a post from drifting in the snow. The car came included with a new clutch and radiator which are going in soon when I get time to pull the engine out! Also have new cables, belts, plugs, filters, and fluids all around for when I put everything back together. Hoping to follow that up with some work on wheels and suspension been battling on whether I want to lift and offroad or get my drift on and do some rally cross. At the moment I'm leaning towards doing rally cross but still undecided! After pulling the engine I'll likely get things cleaned up a bit rust wise and try and throw down a coat of some tough undercoat paint to keep the rust away. Figure if I blast it with a pressure washer and paint starts coming off it was likely going to flake from the rust soon anyways. Here she is for now! Bunch of trim is missing as I've been pulling it off to clean underneath but its all still in once piece... Except for that little triangle that's still attached, ughh. Been looking around lots and seeing what people have done so its tough to decide but I'm sure I'll figure it out, stoked either way especially since its my first car.
-
Hello, I am new to this sight and have recently started my first project car; a 1991 Subaru Loyale Wagon 4wd and this is my build thread So here's the story behind the "Shaggin Wagon" My room mate bought this car in early 2013 as a commuter for $900. It had it's quirks, but she ran soild at a 175,000 miles with the famous subaru tick of course lol Friend decided to take it out to a popular off-roading place called Jim Creek here in AK. Sure enough, he ran it into the ground. Blown out wheel bearing, blown out ball joints, cracked fuel line, blew apart the timing belt trying to drive it home, water pump was done, and clogged the air filter trying to cross a river which is what I think caused the belt to snap later on. As it sat at my other buddy's place for about a year I decided it would be the perfect car for my first real build. Drove out there about a month ago and bought it off of him for $200 as is. Before I towed it into Anchorage to begin the build I couldn't help but start to work on it where she sat. Before I did anything I changed out all the fluids. New tranny fluid, oil change & filter change, new fuel line exiting the filter and fuel filter, new spark plugs, wires, and distributor cap, and power steering fluid change. Next step; I picked up a new timing belt and re-timed the engine. Also replaced the water pump at this time. Messed up the seals a bit on the timing belt cover, but I am about to order a new seal in about a week from this upcoming Friday. I just needed to make sure it still ran and sure enough, she fired right up. Next thing I decided to tackle was shedding the wagons weight a bit First, the hatch needed to come off. Next up, roof removal lol In which case we got a little over zealous and shot it... Nothing a little bondo can't fix though. The day after the trunk removal I decided a little bit of spray on bed liner to the floor boards wouldn't hurt. I only have pics of the paint job thus far, but I may take more later on for sake of the thread. It's hanging in well though Had one more thing to do before I could bring it in to town. Decided to cut the fenders. Ugly job, but it'll do the trick. My goal isn't to make this thing pretty. It's to make it get me where I want to go. May even do more cutting as I will be running 28's here in the future. Flares are on my list as well, but that'll come later on once I actually get the tires.
