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Showing results for tags 'Temperature'.
Found 7 results
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This is my collection of measurements of the CTS. temp sensor ohms 14F 7000 - 11500 68F 2000-3000 122F 700-1000 Above are from the FSM. Below are actual measurements. Done at 2 different times, compiled here. The 1990 unit was in a good running engine. The new dealer unit was bought locally, and I made the measurements before installing it to get the extra reference points. measured ohms temp 1990 used new dealer unit 77F - 2390 122F 1154 1098 185F - 400 190F 454 - More measurements from some runs in 2020 - Temps measured with a Fluke62 max+ IR thermometer. Voltages while running, connected to the ECU with a Fluke 77 Multimeter. Ohms after / before, while off, connected to ECU, same meter. temp ohms volts 79F 1108 2.73V - 1130 2.79V 77F 1139 2.81V 193F 259 .680V - 262 .714V - 268 .735V 192F 242 .652V -
Question SPEED ROUND, I need to replace the thermostat on our H6 engine (2012 Outback). That means draining the radiator. How much coolant should I have on hand to refill the radiator / coolant system ? I believe this thermostat is down low, in the lower radiator hose. 2) There are two coolant sensors located right next to each other. In the parts diagrams, the one to the left is 22630 36D, and the one to the right is 22630 30D. The part numbers are very similar. Can I order 22630AA140 for both locations ? It is $10-15 cheaper than the other one, 22360KA140. 3) What is the normal operating temp for the coolant in this engine? Using an OBD tester while driving, I can see that it is 195 to 205 degrees after warmed up good. I am trying to fix CEL engine code P0128. This code is saying the engine is running too cool. Thanks, Craig -
2003 Outback Limited EJ25, built for Canada in May of 2002. 165,000 miles. I cleaned and flushed the cooling system in March 2016. Then drained the block, radiator, heater core, etc. and removed the freeze plugs, all hoses, thermostat, temperature sender, etc. to dry the system out. Now ready to install new hoses and Evans coolant plus dozens of other preventative maintenance items. Was at the dealer last week and overheard someone say that it's hard on the head gaskets to let them dry out like that. Do not even think of putting it back together. Replace the head gaskets, guaranteed to have an issue with the head gaskets. I wish I had a chance to engage in the conversation. The head gaskets were replace in April, 2011 around 110,000 miles. It appears they are the Subaru brand. All other parts are Subaru. Have not found any aftermarket parts, including filters on the Outback. Is this a myth, a rumor, or a fact that I should continue deeper into the engine and replace the head gaskets? http://www.evanscoolant.com/ http://www.discountoeparts.com/genuine-subaru-parts -
Hi Guys, I have a 1995 Subaru Liberty Heritage, 2.2l Auto, 190k on the clock. About 3 months ago I had a major 6year service on it - about a week later the engine light came on, took it back to the mechanic and they changed an ignition coil and the alternator. Recently I have been having an issue when I drive on the highway - the temp gauge appears to fluctuate - it will go up near max but just as quickly comes back down to normal temp again. A couple of days ago I came off the highway and was idling at a red light - the revs jumped from the normal 500 to over 1k for a couple of seconds. The temp gauge was showing at almost max (car did not appear to be overheating though and no issue with the coolant level). This has happened on a couple of occasions - always seems to be after I have driven on the highway (which I only do approx. once a month). Also a few days ago sitting at a red light the revs jumped up for a few seconds and engine light came on for about 30 seconds (engine light not on at the moment). Any ideas of what could be going on?? Would really appreciate it! :-) -
I need your help, friends. I have a '93 Legacy L wagon, 230k. Yesterday morning, after not driving it for 48 hours, it started very rough (almost couldn't get it started) and CEL was on. Drove to work and left a few hours later; warmer start was much better but still rough. My local shop did not have the right connector to read the CEL code but recommended a fuel filter; it had been 80k since replacement so I had them do it. Warm start was fine, but cold start later in the day was rough again. Google and YouTube educated me on the awesome self-diagnostic mode on this car, and using this I figured out that the code is 21 - Coolant Temperature Sensor or Circuit. Upon inspection, the wires leading to the sensor were halfway chewed through (second time a squirrel has wreaked havoc now...). Tonight I cut, spliced, and plugged back into the sensor, thinking I'm golden. No go - still a rough cold start and CEL is on. Self-diagnostic mode reveals code 21 is still active. I tried clearing the code, but was unsuccessful - either I'm doing it wrong, or the code is still triggering. (There is disagreement on the internet about how exactly to clear the codes...connecting the green and black lead pairs in different combinations, gas pedal down, to halfway for 2 seconds, then up...driving over 7 MPH for 10 minutes and then rev to over 2,000 RPM...I tried this....) Need advice on how to proceed. If the sensor is fine and this was a wiring problem, will I still get the rough start (due to the car assuming it is hot for fuel delivery?) until the code is cleared? If so, what's the correct procedure for clearing the code? Could also be that the sensor is itself bad...but I want to make sure of this before replacement. I've read about testing it with an ohmmeter, but it's virtually impossible to get my multimeter leads in the right places without taking the thing out. Thanks for your help!!! -
Hello all! Just bought my first Subaru. It's a 1998 Legacy GT Sedan (5speed) with 170,000 miles. I'm having a really weird issue with it... The temperature seems to be inversely related to my RPMs. When they go up, my temperature goes down. After buying the car, I drove it around 120 miles home, and found that at highway speeds 70-80 MPH, at 3400 RPM, the temperature gauge was a little less than a quarter of the way up. When I "punched it" to get around traffic, I could watch my temperature gauge fall to the C almost as fast as the tach went up. Once I got back on country roads, cruising in 4th gear at 35-40 MPH, the temperature gauge sat nicely at halfway. Outside temperature was was 9º F. Adjusting the heater didn't really seem to help (obviously wasn't blowing hot air when temperature gauge was down). I am really puzzled by this. Although mechanically inclined, I am by no means a "gear head". I'm thinking it's either an issue of too much coolant, something with the radiator, or a thermostat issue. Any suggestions on where to start? I know it's a little cold outside, but not cold enough for the car not to run where it should. Also, should I be worried about damaging the engine by it running cold? It was only at the bottom (cold) for maybe 5-8 minutes before at least returning to a quarter temperature. Thank you for any help! -
How accessible are the Thermostat and the temperature sensor in the EA81 engine? Would they be really easy to replace, or would you have to take a bunch of stuff apart?
