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Showing results for tags 'Torque Bind'.
Found 9 results
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Hey..Help!!! I bought a 1996 outback with 160k miles on it. After driving it for awhile i noticed torque binding and AT light come on. Did the diagnose and received a solenoid c(Transfer valve) code.Decided to give it a go and replaced the Solenoid. everything went fine,so i thought, until i tried driving off the ramps.Car would not go into any moving gear,park and neutral work GREAT. SO i figured i screwed up somewhere and started tearing it all apart again. I went to drain tranny fluid and hardly anything came out. Decided to poor some more in with the plug open and see if it would drain out.Nothing. im at a loss of what it could be.Any thoughts? -
I bought a 97 legacy L, 2.2, auto, 270k. Motor runs , trans has torque bind. Tcu codes show duty c solenoid. I wanted to drive it to see if it was worth fixing the solenoid so I disconnected the rear driveshaft. Torque bind went away but the u-joint is clunking against the differential flange. Is there another connection to the differential behind that bracket it sits in? Do I need to remove the u-joint and if so could you tell me how? I'm a carpenter, not a mechanic. If not for the info on this forum I would never have gotten this far -
Hey there, I've been visiting for a while to read the threads for advice with my car but just signed up to actually join the conversation. Thanks to all the folks with the experience on here that post on these threads--I cant tell you how many times one of your threads has led me to figure out whats up with my car. Transmission related question for whoever's out there: I drive a 1997 legacy outback with +/-45k miles on a second engine and pushing 250,000 miles on the original transmission. I have pretty bad torque bind that is very apparent in turns. Transmission shifts fine, minus the occasional late or slightly hard shift and the car drives smooth. Question is this: Do i spend the money to replace the Duty C Solenoid and and the Clutch Pack or do I spend a bit more and replace my 250,000 mile trans with a 30-60k mile JDM trans? (All work is my own--so only real consideration is the price of parts) I was just going to fix it until i realized that the parts I'm looking for come out to about half the price of a JDM transmission. (Maybe im looking in the wrong places but solenoid=$130 and clutch pack=$120-200, does that sound right?) I'm a bit attached to this car--Its been a project for me--so getting rid of it is not an option. Thanks in advance for your advice. -
Attached is my write up I created after replacing the Viscous Coupler in my 1999 Impreza OBS, 2.2L, 5MT, Phase 2 car. I only had Word to use, so there is more pages than I wanted. Apparently after 10 years the program has changed a little bit... Feel free to ask questions about anything. Subaru VC.pdf -
Not sure if this is already posted here somewhere, and, perhaps a mod would like to move it but, user plainom at subaruoutback.org has a slideshow of the center viscous LSD in a 5spd. if you need a password; centredifferential http://s1008.photobucket.com/user/plainom2/slideshow/MT CENTER DIFF PRESENTATION more info about this here; http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/66-problems-maintenance/216090-manual-tranny-center-differential-dissassembly-incl-viscous-coupler-slideshow.html -
I have a 1998 Subaru Legacy. Recently the AT TEMP light flashes - 16 times- on start up. I took it to a general mechanic and a transmission specialist, and there were no codes. Also when making sharp turns, especially in reverse it seems to be stuck in 4wd. I put a fuse in the FWD, but that hasn't disengaged the AWD. I have done some research and I am guessing that it is what folks call torque bind and that it is the duty c solenoid that needs to be replaced. But I was also hoping that someone might have some thoughts about why the fuse isn't allowing it to run in FWD only. -
Hello, I have a 98 OBW 200+. Bad torque bind, AT light flashing. I opened the tail end of the transmission and things just dropped out. Does anyone have any idea what that broken metal band is to? Also the end of this gear looks sheered off. How bad is this?
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Hello all, I have posted a lot here recently during two major jobs---replaced my clutch and did front end work, and later replaced timing belt. During these repairs, I also cleaned & re-packed my CV boots, changed transmission fluid (manual), and changed tie rod boots. I mention this since it might be relevant to my brand new problem, described below: I got the thing running again after the timing belt job, and took a victory trip of about 4 hours highway driving today, at the start of a vacation. During the trip I noticed some very minor steering wheel shudder on the interstate. Once I got off the highway and pulled into a gas station, I realized there was a significant vibration/shudder during tight right & left turns at low speeds. Feels like torque bind based on what I've read about it. But, I'm not experienced enough to be sure---perhaps it could be something else. I did some reading and noticed that (if it's torque bind) it could be my center differential viscous coupling. (I sure hope it isn't!) Relevant to this, I should point out that my transmission fluid was changed recently---but this problem didn't occur until AFTER this long trip. (I've heard/read that in old or poorly maintained cars, changing transmission fluid can cause problems). I did check my tire pressure to make sure this isn't being caused by low tire pressure. I've got 35 psi on the left, and 30 and 32 on the right side. I imagine this isn't enough to cause torque bind. Could I be wrong? I know I should have gotten an alignment done after the front end work, but I forgot to get it scheduled before this vacation. I figured it would probably be OK, since I counted threads when I was removing my tie rods and the vehicle isn't "pulling" to one side. I don't know if a slight misalignment could contribute to this. Also, after my clutch job, I experienced some bearing noise after a few minutes of driving. Eventually I discovered that this can occur if axle nuts are over tightened (this prevents bearings from being able to expand when they heat up). I loosened the nuts a bit and the problem went away. Now I am wondering if today's problem could be the result of the bearings being *much* hotter than they are in driving around town (i.e., 4 hours of driving 75mph). Could it be worth loosening the axle nuts? Finally, could the steering wheel shudder be related to the torque binding? Or are they probably unrelated problems? As always, thanks to all the brilliant Subaru experts who have helped me out on this forum. Much obliged :-) -
Hello again everyone. Im having a problem with a Legacy I just bought. I bought it at an auction so I don't know any of the vehicles history. It is a 2.2 automatic with 199k miles. The problem Im having is that the FWD light was on in the dash. The fuse was in the FWD slot. I pulled the fuse and the wheels started binding. It feels like its binding in the front but that doesn't make sense to me since the fuse just disengages the rear wheels. The weird thing is that everyones description of torque bind sounds like it only binds when taking slow sharp turns. When I pull the fuse, it binds all the time. Especially going straight up hill when there is more torque. When I put the fuse in, it drives fine. Front and rear diff is full of oil and oil is very clean. Also the trans fluid is very clean. I drained a quart of trans fluid and replaced it with a Lucas no-slip additive. I haven't noticed any change. Ive had a lot of subaru's and with yall's help have been able to fix pretty much every problem Ive had. Im thinking I should replace the center diff with a used one. Does this sound like the right direction or am I having something weird going on since it's binding all the time? Thank you for any knowledge y'all can share with me.
