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Ok, need some help here, hoping someone can help out (@GeneralDisorder?) First GT forester series 2 (2002) head is off. Piston is noticeably different - GT on the left, EJ20G/whatever it is on the right. This EJ20G/x piston is what came with the heads I’ll be running with. I’m now worried the valves might hit the pistons. I’m hoping I can put one head on (not fully torqued down and thinking without the gasket too), refit the timing gear and rotate the engine to find out if the valves will kiss the piston. Also to note, the GT had thin MLS head gaskets, the HG units I got ages ago in prep for this build are thicker composite gaskets (OEM). I really don’t want to swap pistons on this thing! Here’s hoping! Some background info on the build: this will be going into my Gen1 RS turbo. The heads match the intake bolt pattern and the intake equipment matches the engine management system, hence the head swap onto a known good block. And no, I don’t want to run later model management or run aftermarket management, please leave comments like that to yourself thanks! Cheers Bennie

I recently bought an 04 Forester XT that needs an engine. I was hoping it didn't have the avls system but it does. I went ahead with the purchase because of the condition of the body. I was told I might be able to throw in an engine that doesn't have the avls (I feel like pre avls engines are way more reliable) and delete the code and you can run it just fine. Is this so?! If so, how? and if so again, what do you think the best engine would be to put in it. As for my situation, when I say "best" I mean most reliable. I'm excited to have a turbo, but I'm going to be driving this thing long distances and am more concerned with not breaking down over break neck speed. But speed is fun or I wouldn't have got a turbo! Thanks in advance.

I've been slowly combing through various subsystems on my RX and the most recent system to get some love was the PCV system. I found that every hose is still available, except the one that attaches directly to the PCV valve on the intake manifold. I ran down to my local auto parts store with the original hose in hand to pick through their selection of hoses. WELL! It turns out that the small heater hose from a 2002-2009 Ford Explorer (Dayco P/N 87730) is almost a perfect fit. Hose was about $7 and needed to have a small portion trimmed off. NOTE: EPDM is NOT oil safe, so until I find a better solution, I'll need to keep an eye on this hose to make sure it isn't perishing too quickly.

WHATS UP GUYS!! Check out my YouTube channel for the most up to date progress! https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLhvLjCFIoC6LFmt17Fu4Pj5WL74FBU0qw Been browsing this forum for a few months trying to get ideas for my project and I finally decided to join and build it along with you guys! Open to any advice/criticism but doesnt necessarily mean I will listen to it! The beginning of this thread will basically be a copy and paste from an existing thread I have on another forum! I'm planning to do wrx engine, trans, suspension components, even dashboard! currently(10/30) I nearly have the front end completed (for now) as it sits now, I am currently on this setup stock brat crossmember modded to accept EJ engine mount and wrx control arms stock brat manual steering rack 1" crossmember spacer wrx control arms wrx knuckles wrx/sti struts 04 sti stock springs stock brat 2 bolt top hat (temporary) brat radius arm mount bracket modded to fit wrx control arm custom tranny mount pic of it arriving at the shop.. yay for selectable awd ouchhh.. nice and crusty time to get a good look at her found this girl as my drivetrain donor (parting out other parts) time to cut her all up

My 14' okie gator airboat. Powered by an ej20 turbo, has a 2:1 belt drive with a 10 blade warp drive prop. It does great out here on the st johns river, just got done test driving it for about 3 days in a row. I have a few questions for you guys but ill wait till tmrw. Till then, heres the boat ! Ill take some vids tmrw too.

New to the subaru world, ive always played with small and big block chevys, and aircraft engines. Well now my newest ride is a 14' fiberglass okie gator hull, with an ej20 turbo motor. Im not sure what year, maybe you guys can help me out. Its had a 2:1 belt reduction, because you can only turn a prop at 3100 rpm max, so 3100 rpms on a little ej wont do much. So we reduct them 2:1 so you can turn 6000 rpm max without over spinning the prop. Just a little something different for your forums!

Hello everybody! First time Subaru owner here. I just picked up an 1986 XT Turbo 4x4 complete with the digital dash! Aside from one patch of floor pan rust and the typical rust on the front left subframe, the underbody is pretty minty. Car is straight with the exception of some damage in the front right corner. I still need to figure out fixing the popup on that side, but I just ordered the last new passenger side fender in North America! (Sorry! ) Aside from the dashboard being mincemeat the interior is pretty mint too, not a single rip in the seats, original floor mats, fully functioning dashboard. Radio is dead but I'll take a look at it. Only major problem with the car is she has a wee bit of rod knock and she hates warm starts. She also doesn't like idling after letting off the throttle too quick. My bets are either the IAC or the coolant temp sensor. Anyway, I'm not entirely sure what I want to do with her yet but my ultimate goal is a rotary swap. However since that would be very very expensive, right now I'm heavily considering a B swap! But that's for another post . Unlike many (seemingly) of the other new XT owners, this will absolutely not be a rally car but instead a clean street car. It may be some years before the word "clean" can apply but who knows!

My Subaru turbo history: '87 GL-10 Turbo 4WD Wagon (pre-Loyale) - SOLD '90 BJ, EJ22T/DOHC and 5-speed swap - SOLD '98 Forester S - EJ22T/DOHC swap - SOLD>IT'S BACK! '04 Forester XT, Forged internals, VF39, STI TMIC, Cobb AP- SOLD '93 Legacy SS - 5-speed, SOLD '02 WRX wagon-SOLD '96 Legacy L - turbo to come>>>it's here Side note: I've wanted to build a '96-'99 Legacy Outback turbo'd wagon for years. It's still my favorite body-style, I like the higher stance, it's a very versatile vehicle w/its rear storage, roof rack and utilitarian interior, easy to work on and don't forget those Head Gasket issues (er, yeah whatever)...w/more power it'd be about perfect. Edit 6-2019: The kid that bought this 2+ years ago 'hooned it enough to need a new HG (he admitted to doing his best Ken Block imitation) and then appears to have crashed it....but I don't know that fershure. But it's totaled. :-( 8/20/15: Bought a '96 Legacy L Sedan w/128K miles for $1250. It had a 'tick' (look on here) that I thought was the Driver's side head HLA's but after swapping it out w/another set it still was making noise. Also was blowing some blue smoke on startup. Otherwise, car was clean and in fair>good condition - but definitely not a low(er) mileage gem. 9/20/15: I pulled the '96 EJ22e and installed a '91 (or '90) EJ22e. Block had unknown miles (paid $100 for it from someone who got it from someone else from our local PullnSave). I ran it in another project and knew the head gaskets were toast. So, I put an extra set of EJ22T (turbo) heads on it withe EJ22T head gaskets, plugged the oil and water lines on the passenger side head and have put about 3K miles on it since. Tangent: I have no proof and haven't driven a non-turbo 2.2 in a few years, but this 'hybrid' setup seems to have pretty good off-the-line torque. My guess is that it's the turbo heads as the stock EJ22T makes 20 more torque than HP, unlike most Subarus where the HP/Torque are about equal. But this setup sucks down the petrol. I'm guessing 20mpg is it for around town and when driving on the freeway @ 70-75mph it's the same. Maybe mid-20's on a 60mph highway cruise. Not a lot less than the stock 2.2, but not great. After having a local shop tell me what it needed during a 'buyer's inspection', I proceeded to save myself their $1500 estimate and did 99% of the work myself for about $500 in parts. I added the OB struts to lift it a couple inches so it'll be similar to a Legacy SUS: 1996 Subaru Legacy Maintenance and upgrades Suspension: 1998 OB struts with 45K miles (?) - LegacyGT.com Front and rear sway bar links Inner/outer tie rods R&P boot kit 1 (one in stash) Alignment Trans: ATF drain/refill Engine: Swapped in EJ22e from '91 and installed EJ22T heads and EJ22T HG (EJ22e head gasket doesn't match the head's ports) IM gasket Installed Delta 220 grind cams-cost $180>Removed 10/1/2015 - too lumpy New T-belt/waterpump, etc and reseal on the EJ22e/EJ22T when installed Tires: Summer: Michelin Defender 215/60R16 Winter: Hankook Ipike Snow tires 215/60R-16 on wheels + chains Other: Upper Radiator hose Tighten Trans Pan bolts to eliminate leak Adjust rear PARKING brake VC gaskets Power mode switch for AT trans 4WD Diff switch Upgraded to Legacy OB 10.7" front disk brakes w/dual-piston calipers (L model are single-piston) Mud flaps 2000 Outback front seats- power driver's (Tried some '97 OB seats first but the '00 are more comfy) Leather steering wheel Driver's side CV Axle - New Napa 12/2015: The car is 99% a city commuter as I have a 6 mile commute across town - top-speed of 35mph. Car runs great around town. I took it on its first road test to ski in Canada and had two experiences that made me think I needed a power boost (as someone w/a V6 RAV4 and numerous Turbo'd Subies I'm not a stranger to quick(er) cars): 1. Went to pass a neon (probably the last one with out blown HG/engine) and the guy was a jerk (hey, Canada has red-necks too) and sped up on a two-lane road. We were doing about 60mph and my car had nothing left when I went to 'go faster', so I backed off and pulled back in behind. 2. Went to pass a semi on another two-lane road and thank the gods we had plenty of open road ahead of us....I had time to note the weight gauges on each axle as I moseyed on by...painful. So, it was either the 2.5/2.2 franken-engine or adding a turbo (I'm not a fan of the EJ25D DOHC ticking-time-bomb). I had most of the parts for the turbo option sitting in my garage from past projects, so finally decided to go that route....although truthfully the 2.5/2.2 option was less work, and I had two sets of EJ22 heads I could've sourced. 2/7/2016: Here's my Legacy Turbo List for an NA (non-aspirated) car: * This is a 5 psi setup (wastegate pressure of the VF11 turbo) * This low-boost setup should run 'as is' w/out Engine Management (EM). The stock MAF can compensate for the extra air the turbo sucks in. * Notch Crossmember (I'll need to reinforce this. Use a '91-'94 Legacy Sport Sedan (SS) or Touring Wagon turbo crossmember for best application - and get the turbo front swaybar!) * Turbo - VF11 (stock from SS) - need the stock oil and water lines w/the EJ22T heads. Turbo’s coolant comes from stock EJ22T location and dumps into the return Heater-core hose by firewall. * Turbo inlet hose (stock from SS - bought one of the last new ones in the WORLD from a member on Legacy Central) * Re-route PCV, Breather, F-pipe, IAC - this is a PITA, and spent more time on this than just about anything else. I have the BPV, IAC and EGR all going into the same hose that connects the turbo inlet...have to wait and see if that'll blow up something. The stock EJ22T setup has a 'resonator' box between the air filter box and inlet hose that has the extra connectors, so I may have to come up w/another fix. * * EGR - reroute hoses: I'd already done the non-EGR mod when I installed the older EJ22 so some of it was already there, but had to redo it w/the turbo. * Stock SS Plastic pipe/hose from turbo to throttle body - it also mounts the BPV. * * Air filter box: Re-used Stock w/an existing reducer, to a piece of pipe, to connect to the turbo's 90° rubber inlet hose. * * Turbo IAC + one-way valve - The turbo IAC has a 90° elbow that allows it to clear. W/out it I don't think the NA version would work w/the VF11 due the turbo's bracket. * * Sti Fuel pump + kit - probably not 100% necessary for 5 psi, but I bought it w/30K miles for $40 so cheap insurance? * * Move wiring harness - the NA cars have the 3-connectors for the engine harness mounted right where the turbo and a bunch of other stuff must go, so I moved them more to the top/center of the engine under the throttle body...it's a tight fit. * * By-pass valve (BPV)- vacuum line source * Boost gauge - vac line * * Regap plugs to .030? (left @ stock unless I get misfires) * * Install turbo exh. Manifold and uppipe (new gasket) * Stock SS Downpipe, to an ‘04 WRX Exhaust w/about an 16" pipe (2.5" connector ends) extension in the mid-pipe, to a 2002 WRX axle-back muffler w/twin tips (slightly smaller than the ‘04’s single-tip muffler). Used two stock hangers bolted together to hang from the WRX hangers to get clearance.....for now. Edit: After getting a $200 quote from the exhaust shop, I replaced the mid-pipe hanger and 2 rear hangers w/longer ROL brand Rubber Insulator hanger. Part #: 511180. They got rid of 95% of the looseness in the exhaust and I'm going to just drive it as is. The hanger that's on the downpipe doesn't align w/the ’96 transmission's hanger, so it's not used. * REAR O2 sensor wire extension- 24" (my ’96 is a CA-smogged version and has the 2nd O2 closer to the front of car.) * LC-1 wideband sensor to read AFRs - I hope to be <12:1 when on boost. Any more Lean and I'll have to get a Fuel management unit (FMU)/ Rising rate fuel pressure regulator (RRFPR) to increase the fuel pressure to compensate. Most suggest a 6:1 for the MAF-based cars. (Not permanently installed.) * Run Premium/Super unleaded - we have 92 octane * Modified turbo heat shield * ECU / ECM from a 1998 GT, Outback w/the EJ25D. A '98 ECU from an RS or Forester may work also. I 'think' this ECU supplies more fuel due to the extra HP/torque and better flowing heads on the 2.5 engine. NOTE: I tried a '96 and got a code for the Purge due to the location of the charcoal canister. A '99 won't work either as it's the transition year to Phase 2 engines/Transmissions. ECU should probably match whether your car is Federal or Calif. model, too. * Edit 7/6/2016: Installed a cheap ($73 shipped) ebay downpipe (DP). Had my Subaru Guru, Damian A. - install a bung (wire feed welder on stainless), and bought a used Grimmspeed DP adapter on ebay. Modified the connector piece used w/the stock DP. Added 50HP/Torque......not quite, but from what I've read online it should add SOMEthing. Still on WG boost. (Subaru Guru put new rings on the '96's original 2.2 - the bottom oil rings were seizedd, likely causing the smoke. ) Edit: 11/4/2016: Bought an extra 90° turbo inlet hose but for an EJ20G as the EJ22T's sold out. Got it from Partsouq.com very cheap. Subaru 46023FA000 BOOT B JAPAN 87149900 $22.88, Total for This Shipment: $33.67. See attached pics: * IAC fitment of stock part - only about 1/4" between it and turbo. * Turbo one-way valve behind IAC. * STi vs. stock fuel pump (pic doesn't show actual size difference. The STi is MUCH smaller but flows a lot more.) * WRX exhaust * 16" Flex pipe for too short WRX exhaust. EDIT: swapped it out for a solid 2.5” ID piece I cut to fit. * Pre-fabbing hoses and wiring * Final hoses and wiring * Notched crossmember * Grimmspeed DP adapter - note it has the stock donut gasket installed - that's NOT included but just swap over the stocker.

So first post and all, gonna try my best to not step on too many toes, thus I apologize in advance for any faux pas. Well to start I’ll state that this wagon has sat for well over 10 years, had water in the cooling system, gas left in the fuel lines, and amongst myriads of problems not been run or driven. Amongst these issues are that the blower doesn’t work, kinda, and I don’t have heat or A/C, well, till today. I just started the wagon as usual, except the rpms which normally idle at 1200-1400 (trying to figure this out too) dropped to 500 and there was a loud click from within the dash and suddenly the blower motor turned on. Interestingly it doesn’t turn after this first time. More so, whilst it was running I was estatic to find that the heater core was good and I was able to get heat, along with all 4 fan speeds. Fast forward 7hours. I went for lunch and upon starting the car for the first time after the blower suddenly worked, it no longer does. And after getting food and coming up to the wagon there is a large pool of coolant under it, figures... After returning from lunch I open my hood to find coolant sprayed across nearly everything. The source is, so far as I can discern, the manifold that connects to the heater core is spraying a jet of coolant onto the torque converter, thus spraying it across the engine bay and creating the large pool of fluid.For more specifics refer to pictures. Also as of taking these photos it has become twice as bad, rather 2 jets instead of 1. What I cannot figure out is threefold: 1- what part this actually is, as the number is covered by the intake, thus I cannot search it 2- if it’s removable without too much headache 3- why the blower motor suddenly works after 3 months and then just as suddenly doesn’t, yet the heater and A/C controls after an equal amount of time not working, are still working

I have a 1985 4wd Turbo RX manual trans Subaru. I am not sure why I can't get the car over 4k rpm and the turbo light comes on after 3k but kinda flickers, could I get some help understanding why the cars lacks power. I have great idle, easy cold/hot start and trouble with climbing hills and speed above 45 mph.

I have a 2017 Forester XT 2.0 Turbo which developed an engine noise that at first I thought was ignition knocking, because the onset of noise was during summer and it had not occurred earlier in the year. The noise manifested itself only at full throttle and high rpm -- which made me very alarmed. Despite chats with at least 3 Subaru dealer service advisors, no one came up with a better suggestion than "don't use Costco fuel". In August, I myself was underneath the car and noticed the attached photo appearance which immediately suggested to me a possible exhaust leak. I now found the service advisors at least agreed I should bring my car in. The surprise ending is, Yes I did have an exhaust leak, but NO it was NOT what shows in the picture. They wire-brushed the flange shown, and convinced themselves that is not a crack, just a casting effect. (I still don't think much of it though). Our exhaust leak was not at the photo location, but rather at the right-hand cylinder bank exhaust manifold, where they told me a nut had backed off, and then allowed the gasket to fail. I'd be most interested to hear if other FA20 Turbo engines are similarly misbehaving. Has there been a engine assembly problem with inadequate bolt-torquing? Or poor design of exhaust manifolds? Or poor metallurgy?? I'd also be interested to hear whether other FA20 Turbo engines have exhaust flange castings which look as bad as my photo. Has anyone actually had a failure in this location? (immediately downstream of the turbocharger) Mark Sandstrom Seattle

After searching for almost a year, my fiance and I got this car in the spring of 2016 for her to use as a commuter during bad snow days. Shortly after purchasing it, we took it to a local mechanic to have it inspected and to address any glaring issues. We ended up putting in new wheel bearings, suspension, flywheel, clutch, axle shaft assembly, and several other things. Before the mechanic was done working on the car, it was stolen off of his lot (left unlocked with keys in the ignition). The kid who stole it couldn't drive a stick and blew the engine about a mile up the road. Other than the blown engine, no other apparent damage was done. They ended up catching the kid who stole it and he was ordered to reimburse the mechanic for the damages. The prosecutor told me the mechanic was responsible for replacing the blown motor. Fast forward more than a year - we just got the car back. The mechanic really dragged his feet finishing the job and gave me a sob story of how he spent $7,000 of his own money fixing the car. Also, when I picked the car up, he sent up some red flags that he may not have fully completed the swap. He said that it didn't have as much power as he thought it would, but "we all know how these old Subaru's are". I took the car for a test drive up the highway and noticed that the car was really lacking power and the turbo light only came on once and only for a second or two. After a brief visual inspection (I'm not the best mechanic), I was able to identify several problems. I have a Chilton coming in the mail and I downloaded the 1989 EA-82 FSM. I have also spent some time searching through the 1987-1996 repair instructions. I am having trouble identifying a couple of hoses and a connector. Any help identifying where these things go would be a huge help. Thanks in advance! There are two loose hoses that I think have to do with the turbo. I cannot figure out where they go. There is an electrical connector that is disconnected. What I think is the "waste gate valve controller" is not connected. The vehicle is leaking what looks like coolant. The front skid plate is missing!

So....this dropped in my lap the other day. Friend was cleaning out his garage and his son left this and is done with subaru's now so.........it will go on a de-stroked Ej25d (2.2 crank and rods) using 96 hydro heads run by EJ22T ecu and harness. IMG_2652 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr next on the list is an uppipe. then turbo.....I've got a couple IHI VF from an EA82. Rather find something newer like td04 but it's coming toghether.

So.. I found and purchased my dream machine Subaru GL-10turbo (85,000 original miles) After 2,000 of my own miles she comes with one incredibly annoying issue that no one.. and I mean no master Subaru mechanic can fix or even have an answer for. The alternator accessory belt is simply not made anymore. Seemingly ALL aftermarket belts are just not proper enough to last more than 1,000 miles before they have stretched too far for the alternator/pulley adjustment and just squeal like a dying pig. PLEASE... for the love of god.. as I put on my 3rd belt in 2,000 miles.. does anyone have a solution. Even better... please provide details on the best belt and make of belt. Maybe even a link if where to order one. Or maybe I am completely missing the answer and it's a pulley gone bad?? If a Subaru mechanic will not help me figure it out I thought to try here.. Thanks Everyone!!!

Hello fellow Subaru fans, Backdrop: So a few years ago when I still lived in Indiana, I saw a 1982 Subaru BRAT on craigslist for $2700. I had never seen a Subaru BRAT before. A truck with T-Tops and seats in the back? That's pretty 80's! I looked around for how many there were for sale in the area on craigslist: 0. Surrounding area: 0. United States using searchtempest: only about 20 at the time and most were beaten up or rusted. This one had spent most its life in San Diego and then a garage, had no rust, 4 year old paint job and still ran (not well, but ran). I bought it that night. I realized pretty quickly after driving it that it was a dog... 73hp from the factory and after sitting for as long as this one had, I bet it wasn't topping 50hp. With the rebuild path requiring a decent amount of work only to get back to 73hp, I figured an engine swap was the better choice. I've been shopping for EJ22's for months now when I came across a deal on a wrecked 2002 WRX that I couldn't pass up: so it looks like I'm going to be building a Subaru BRAT WRX :-) The Build: Death and Taxes: I did some research after buying it and learned that the jump seats were installed to prevent a 25% tax on imported trucks from Japan (source: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Subaru_BRAT), which I thought was pretty clever. The import tax for passengar cars (which is legally what the BRAT was thanks to these seats) was only 2.5%. Maybe this makes me a bad citizen, but I love it when I find a way to pay less taxes! Once I had the BRAT in my garage I sat in the jump seats of the BRAT and realized that if this thing were to roll over, you are most certainly dead. I'm 5'11" and my entire head sits higher than the top of the cab. This reminded me of a quote from Benjamin Franklin in a letter to Jean-Baptiste Leroy in 1789 (source: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Death_and_taxes_(idiom)) "Our new Constitution is now established, and has an appearance that promises permanency; but in this world nothing can be said to be certain, except death and taxes." My goal is to lift the BRAT ~6" in the front and ~4" in the back (this should level it) and use the full drivetrain from the impreza: from the engine to the wheels (eventually upgrade wheels and tires), including suspension and brakes. I'll be designing brackets to mount everything and attempting to fabricate them myself. I'm a mechanical engineer so I'm not too worried about designing the brackets, more so my fabrication skills :-/ Worst case I'll outsource the fabrication. The fab shop I use at work is full of car guys so hopefully they'll give me a good price when they hear what I'm doing... I've never blogged or posted to a forum before, but I'll try to keep this updated as I go. I've already read a lot of the threads on here for similar builds but if anyone has any specific advice feel free to post it!

So I dropped the clutch in 1st at about 5k rpms in some loose gravel to try to drift, the car bogged out hard but continued to run. Then the CEL came on and it idled high around 1200 rpm instead of the usual 5-600 rpms. Then after finding out auto zone couldn't run my codes I tried to drive home. After about 15 minutes The car bogged out under light throttle at a stop light trying to move in 1st. Then it wouldn't start after that. Plugged the black CEL memory cables in and turned the key to ON. now it's throwing codes 16, 17, 22, 23, 24, 35, 42, and 49 when the CEL was never on before. The car won't start at all just cranks and cranks until the battery dies. All stock ej22t awd 5 speed manual

Hi, As I was driving across the state, 3hr into my 5hr drive I noticed my turbo quit working when accelerating and with an occasional whirling sound. Long story short I limped it back (2hr drive) to a subaru dealer after o’reillys told me the timing belt slipped/stretched/ needed to be replaced; turns out my oil filter failed and leaked causing the turbo to seize up with little oil left in the car. I’m currently getting quotes of $2500 for tearing down the engine plus a bare minimum of $3500 for the turbo to be replacement (w/o parts). What would you guys do in my position? The engine has close to 132,XXX miles for the 2006 baja and would rather not give up on it. I’ve read around and could maybe dodge the $2500 diagnostic by a quick look at the oil pan but the engine damage is a real concern (drove through the mountains for 2hrs). Should I just get the turbo replaced by a independent mechanic and hope that the turbo was my only problem? Where would you draw the line on fixing a car? (Everything is stock, 2.5L EJ255 H4 Turbo) Any advice is greatly appreciated -Thanks

if anybody has any tips on where I could find a cheap wrx, even for repair, I would appreciate it

Attention all turbocharged EA owners! This thread is to gauge the interest in an aftermarket replacement for your MAF-to-turbo hose. As you probably have experienced owning an older Subaru, many critical parts are no longer available (NLA), including the inlet hose on our EA81T and EA82T engines. This particular rubber hose happens to be out of production and is installed in a location that sees a lot of heat. I found the pipe on my personal vehicle had split where it joins the turbocharger's inlet and once I found out I couldn't order a replacement, I reached out to a few companies about building a replacement. The details: Replacement hose made from silicone Molded to match the contours of the OEM part Nylon reinforced for rigidity Lined with fluorosilicone to resist damage from PCV oil mist Resists degradation in temperatures up to ~500*F (EPDM rubber is good to ~210*F) CARB legal There is also an opportunity to have replacements made for all the other molded rubber PCV/vacuum hoses that are currently out of production. At this point I have a rough idea of what it will take to manufacture this part. Price will depend on how many parts are made, so this thread is for me to get an idea of how many folks here would be interested in one of these hoses. There are still a lot of variables to work out, but I'm open to comments and suggestions. So, who's interested?

For those who like a story: This thing came up for sale in November. I was 3 days late to the CL posting. The ad read "1984 Subaru Brat - $600" I glanced at the ad. Horrendous choice in colors. Back to the future inspired maybe... I looked at the interior pictures. I saw an automatic shifter. "Ew" I thought. The next picture was of the fun tops. It probably took me a solid minute to figure out that something was weird. The only auto brats I've seen have ALL been either hardtop or turbo. My pulse started to rise and when I clicked on the picture of the engine bay I nearly lost it. Of all Subarus to pop up in DFW - a Turbo Brat. It was all hands on deck at that point. I shot him a text and got an address. I went and pulled the money out of the bank. And went on my way. The guy was DESPERATE to get rid of it. Claimed everyone had been flaking out. The thing looked like it hadn't been touched in ages. Someone had started tearing it apart it looks like. All the accessories were inside the car and bolts strewn about all over. Nice. But everything looked like it was there. Has a 2" lift. ODO read 90k. Guy said he bought it to STI swap and lost interest. I was in my S13 so I couldn't exactly tow it. He wouldn't accept money unless it came off his driveway. I was too stubborn to call a flatbed, so I walked away. My Grandpa was out of town so I couldn't use his truck. Ultimately it sold before I could arrange transport. I was pretty bummed, but it was my own fault. I searched everyday too see if the new owner would pop up on here. And they never did. Then one day I'm on CL doing a sweep for a decent car to flip and I see the same Brat listed. I nearly lost it. I Had another chance. I offered the guy my S13 as trade and he was stoked about the deal. Who wouldn't be? Running and driving 240sx for a non running Brat that he had no comprehension of the mechanics of. I got a trailer, and I set forth to pick up my blue lobster and bring it home where it would be cared for. For those who got a headache from the amount of pointless text: have some pictures I tore the top end apart today... And found bank 2 full of coolant. Stripped intake bolt. Coolant looked fresh. Guess the guy who bought it tried to get it going somewhat. The gasket was TOAST. Hopefully that's all that kept this thing from running normal. Slowly replacing rubber hoses and things I see that want attention. This is a new learning experience for me and Im looking forward to the challenge.

Well my 2004 Baja turbo has come apart. Shop wants $2100 to change it, I ain't got it. So I'm going to do it myself, any tips?

Ok, I have a 2004 Baja turbo I got about 2 years ago, it has about 209,000 miles on it and the turbo was replaced with a used one that had 70,000 miles on it just before I bought it. Well now my problem is it sat for 2 weeks while I was out of town and now it has lost acceleration, Turbo is smoking a little where a rod hooks up and ( hadn't drove it for the last week) Drove it today lots of white smoke out the tail pipe. I got these codes, P0011 "A" Camshaft Position Over- Advanced or System Performance and P0021 "A" Camshaft Position Over- Advanced or System Performance. Wish I could figure out how to post pics, that would really help.

Hi guys, Upon deciding the stage 2 wasn't enough, I have decided to look at getting a bigger turbo and the supporting mods to go with it. Research hasn't lead me anywhere productive and I have run into the problem of knowing if a turbo will bolt on or fitment treatment is required. I originally leaned towards a blouch td05-18g but later found out it wont fit. Is there a list of turbos I can find anywhere that have power ratings and are known to fit this model forester? Thanks!

I have a 2014 Subaru legacy and I love it, but id like to get some more power out of it. I have a very limited knowledge of upgrading cars, but from what I've researched and been told I think the best way to achieve the 350-400hp I'm looking for (and staying under $4-8k) is keeping the current engine and rebuilding it with forged pistons, turboing the engine and swapping the transmission. I've also been told I might need a new intercooler as well, but I haven't gotten any professional advice yet. Does this sound like a terrible idea? And what do you think the cheapest/best way to get more power in my legacy would be? Would really appreciate any advice!

Hey everyone I am currently in the process of fixing up a rusted death trap called a Subaru RX Turbo. I am welding in a bunch of metal and while I was taking everything off the car I got a bit lost on what to do with the brake and fuel lines. They are all in bad shape and I would like to fix them properly with no compression fittings. Below I am going to post a bunch of pictures of the lines that were originally tucked up right next to the gas tank in the rear. In the photo above they are sitll in there stock location. As you can see I have a lot work ahead of me. The photo above shows some sort of proportioning valve. It has one line coming from the inside that the previous owner patched with a compression fitting. Below is a picture of this line. First of I would like to fix this line. Here is the other end of the line in the engine bay. Does anyone know If there is a way to buy this line brand new. I know going aftermarket should be as simple as buying the line that screws in and bending it myself. However I am not very familiar with bending lines and I need to get the proper tools to do it. The next part is the actual back section that is a complete mess. One of the lines split under its own weight shown below. Another view below My goal is to make everything safe and back to factory. If i can upgrade without spending too much I will. But I need some advice on which direction I should take to fix this brake system. The front is holding up and seems simple enough that I can deal with it. Another issue which is even worse is that my fuel lines are leaky. The pic above shows the problem area. Another closer view. Also underneath towards the back is not looking so good either. A lot of rusted out lines and cracked rubber that is not going to even supply enough fuel pressure to make the car run properly. Also I plan on EJ25 swapping the car, does anyone have any suggestions on a good external fuel pump for a an NA ej25? Any advice would be greatly appreciated thanks.