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Showing results for tags 'Valves'.
Found 14 results
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Hi all, EJ251 shortblock, EJ25 D heads, STI gaskets I'm getting an unbalanced shake/hesitation from 1800-2500 rpm. I can't effectively accelerate until rpms are above 2500. Taking off from a stop, the car feels bogged down. Plugs, Wires are less than a year old. Fuel pump/filter/strainer within 6 months. Coil and ignition module are within spec according to an FSM that I read. There was a vacuum leak with the purge solenoid under the intake manifold. It was not operating. Before I found that, my STFT, and LTFT indicated (at idle) 3-10%, and 18-25% respectively. After plugging the vacuum line I have the numbers seen in the photo below. I just did a leak-down test. According to the gauges, I'm within 10% for each cylinder. ALTHOUGH, I do hear/feel air escaping through the intake, and the oil filler tube. I followed this for instructions: I have also done multiple compression tests. For cylinder #3 is 225 psi, the remaining cylinders are between 210 and 215 psi. Can one cylinder being higher than the rest cause an unbalancing/misfire/poor low-end acceleration? Even if the numbers are good, the fact that I have air coming through the oil filler tube and intake, does this suggest the motor is shot? Check my timing again? Is there any change in timing instructions when mating an EJ251 with 25D heads? The heads are closer together, and the bolt holes for the intake manifold needed to be filed down a bit in order to properly bolt it onto the long-block. I've done a smoke test in/around the intake/intake manifold/hoses etc, and don't come up with anything. Thanks for the help, Greg
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Hi all, EJ251 block/EJ25D heads in '98 OBW, 5MT Recent work done in the past year: Plugs (ngk) wires (ngk) Timing belt kit (oem) Timing cam gears (oem) Cleaned and swapped out IACV Swapped out MAF Swapped out TPS New Fuel Pump, Strainer, Filter, Pressure Regulator New OEM Oxygen sensor Compression test cylinders 1-4: 214, 205, 225, 209 (unsure if these numbers are good for a High Compression build, it is consuming some oil. Maybe a half quart to full quart every few months of mostly short trips and some highway) I live in Las Vegas, and the temperatures are now at the usual hot. When city driving during the heat of the day, the engine will idle very low (has approached stalling, entire car shutters/shakes) and will often bob up and down +/- 100 rpm. It seems to be at its worse always when the fuel tank is at or below half-filled. If I use the A/C it helps with the issue because of the idle-up function. I've checked for vacuum leaks with a propane tank, and can't find anything. If I unplug a vacuum line, the engine idles up. Upon startup for the first 5 minutes, the exhaust smells very rich. Should I be looking to test next? The valves are kinda loud, should I do a leak-down test? When I press the accelerator pedal, from 1800 rpm to 2500 rpm, the motor behaves as if it is unbalanced. Anything above 2500, it is smooth and responsive. I am using an air intake from a '96 legacy wagon... is that an issue? Too restrictive? Any help would be appreciated. Greg
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EJ251/25D hybrid Original posting with backstory: timing belt jumped a few teeth headed up I-70 two days ago. Reset timing, and it runs well, but noticeable tick coming from the passenger side of the motor. That is the side that the belt skipped. Yet to do a compression test, but I wanted to know what my options are if a valve or two bent. I'm supposed to start grad school this coming Monday, and need to get from Denver to Las Vegas. I'm limited on time. If I don't fix the valves, what are the chances it eats the valves while driving down there? I know I can have a motor out and apart within 4 hours, but the time it takes to get parts and everything needed gets me down to the wire on being at school on time. If I can at least get it to Nevada, I have a garage that'll allow me time to fix it properly... Thoughts?
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I have a bent valve in an 85 Brat A/T. I want to replace it but I can't find any place that specifically has the Large valve. Rock Auto says it has it but i looked and the 82 Brat in their catalog uses the same valve part number. And correct me if I'm wrong but pre 84 had smaller valves... I just don't want to buy it pull the head and find out its the wrong one.
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3-43 7. Hydraulic Valve Lifter 1. Replacement The hydraulic valve lifter can be replaced even when the engine is mounted on the vehicle as follows: 1. Disconnect both the blow-by and PCV hoses 2. Revove the valve rocker cover. 3. Using the special tool (Socket Wrench: 899988607), loosen the valve rocker ASSY and remove the push rod. 4. Raise the vehicle body with a jack and suppor it on a safety stand. 5. Remove the nuts which secure the front engine mounting and slightly raise the engine using a floor crane. 6. Remove the drain plug to drain the engine oil completely. Detach the oil pan. 7. Remove the hydraulic valve lifter. Use of a magnet facilitates removal. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/gallery/image/3767-ea81fig-3-45-a-5678/ Fig. 3-45 A5-678 8. The valve lifter can be installed in reverse order. 2. Adjustment 1. Perform adjustment in cold condition [coolant temperature 20 to 40 deg. C (68 deg. to 104 deg. F)]. 2. Retighten cylinder head nuts and bolts previously if necessary. 3. Adjust hydraulic valve lifter with the following procedures: a. Perform adjustment in two (2) sequences. Sequence (I) -------------------- Position #1 cylinder at TDC (compression), and adjust the valve lifters for intake and exhaust valves on #1 cylinder, for exhaust valve on #3 cylinder and for intake valve on #4 cylinder. Sequence (II)---------------- Position #2 cylinder at TDC (compression), and adjust all the others, i.e. for intake and exhaust valves on #2 cylinder, for intake valve on #3 cylinder and for exhaust valve on #4 cylinder. b. Raise up the bend of lock washer, loosen the lock nut, and then turn the valve rocker screw clockwise by approx. four (4) turns using Valve Clearance Adjuster 498767000. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/gallery/image/3768-ea81fig-3-46-a5-700/ Fig. 3-46 A-700 <Valve opens. Screw by approx 4 turns> c. Leave it with the valves opened for approx. 15 minutes. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/gallery/image/3769-ea81fig-3-47-a5-701/ Fig 3-47 A-701 <Leave for approx 15 minutes then pressure chamber volume becomes minimum. Valve moves to close a little.> d. Unscrew the valve rocker screw gradually. Then, the rocker arm stops moving due to the closing of valve. This condion is called "Zero Point". http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/gallery/image/3770-ea81fig-3-48-a5-702/ Fig. 3-48 A5-702 <Valve closes Zero point Unscrew gradually> e. Moreover, unscrew the valve rocker screw counterclockwise by 1.5 turns http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/gallery/image/3771-ea81fig-3-49-a5-703/ Fig. 3-49 <Hydralic valve lifter adjusted Unscrew by 1.5 turns> f. Tighen lock nut, and bend the lock washer. -
I have an 85 brat that I bought a gasket kit for. When I replace the head gaskets I accidentally adjusted one of the valves. Total stupidity on my part but nothing I can do about it now. I tried to fix it by using the adjustments . 01 for the intake and .014 for the exhaust. I didn't realize at the time that mine wasn't the solid lifters but the hydraulic ones. I know now they're the hydraulic ones because they have the little locks for the nuts. Now that the engine is back together and ready to start it runs terribly and ticks. I haven't ran it more than 30 seconds because I figured what I did. So my question is what do I adjust the valves to for the hydraulic ones?
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http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/gallery/image/3765-ea81-do-not-adjust-valves-sticker/ A sticker on my valve cover says "Don'd Adjust Valve Clearance". The engine is at 160,000 miles. What should I do?
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Duplicate...Moderator, please delete this.
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1992 Loyale with 187K I poured water into the intake port on the head and found out that three valves leak. I am going to rent a valves spring compressor and address that. Should I do the fourth one? When I poured water into the exhaust port there were no leaking exhaust valves. Why? Should I do them too? I have never done that kind of work so any suggestions/recommendations will be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Sam
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Okay, everybody, so I'm having another problem with my '92 Loyale. It was running fine with the new battery and I got the shim for the loose terminal and that was the fix. But now it struggled to start a couple nights ago, and it's been really, really cold out in my area. It gave a good crank and tried to start but died. I tried again and the same thing happened. Tried once more and that time I pumped the gas while I cranked engine and it got started then, but the vehicle vibrated a little and the idle did not start out high but very low. Also there's been a squealing noise too, like maybe a belt on one of the pulleys? Once the engine warms up the squeal usually stops. After that I was able to start the car fine each time but there's this problem of it idling really low. Any answers, guys? Could it be the arctic weather that caused the problem? Too much cold weather affecting the engine and components? And what can I do about it? I don't think the timing slipped because I got that fixed already last year, brand new timing belt and new plugs and distributor. I saw one of Scotty Kilmer's vids about using an idle throttle cleaner that could solve the problem, but what does my situation seem like to you guys? -
Hello everyone, I am preparing myself to rebuild an EJ25 engine in my 2006 Subaru Impreza 2.5i SOHC. I want to make sure my valves are at or near original factory spec. If all I do is lap the valves, I understand that I may need to readjust the stem height. Will this cause any problem with compression or timing? Is there a way to determine if I need to recut the 3 angled surfaces on the valves? If I buy new valves for this used head, it looks like I will need to lap them, but will they sit correctly in the head? Is there a way to check the valve seats and check it's angles or is all this that I'm asking about for the machine shop to do? -
Thanks as always for the help. Love these forums. On my 1999 Legacy Outback (2.5L DOHC), I recently replaced my timing belt & components after a slipped tooth resulted in poor compression and misfires on cylinders 1 and 3. Before the timing belt replacement I got 90 and 80 psi compression on cylinders 1 and 3, respectively. Now I get 210 and 60 psi respectively. (On cylinders 2 and 4 I got 190 and 180). I detailed this info in this thread. A friend advised a leakdown test next. I put Cylinder 3 in TDC, held it in place with a socket and breaker bar, dialed input pressure up to 75 psi and got 72-73 on the other gauge, i.e. approximately 3-4% leakage. I could hear a quiet hissing through the oil fill cap. 1) Do these numbers seem right---i.e. are the results of my leakdown test consistent with the compression test? Want to make sure I'm doing it right. 2) Assuming it is right, this means I have worn piston rings or cylinder walls, right? -
Hello! I am new to this forum and I am looking for a place for help with my Subaru and ones belonging to my friends. I have a problem now and I need help! Let me preface this by saying I am an ASE and Honda master technician but I have very little experience with Subaru's. While I'm confident I can fix this car I want to know what I am looking at. A friend of mine has a 2003 Subaru Baja with what a believe is an ej25 (correct me if i'm wrong). While driving at interstate speeds and under throttle going up a hill his timing belt snapped. Afterward he tried to start it a few times (I know a big no no). My experience with Honda's tells me that I can get away with replacing the timing belt and the valves and everything should be back to normal. What are the chances that this did more damage than just bending and breaking valves? The mechanic he had it towed too (not me because he lives a few hours away) quoted him $2500-$3000 because he said 1. the engine would have to be removed and 2. it would have to be rebuilt and the heads would have to be sent off and repaired. I did some research and found that there have been people who have removed the heads on this motor without pulling the engine. Is this a possibility or just a pipe dream? Any help would be wonderful because I want to be able to knock this out in a weekend and would like to know what the chances are that any other damage would have been done to the motor such as cracked pistons etc. Thanks for your help! V -
Hello Everyone! This is my first post on the site and I have a question about my 2007 Subaru Impreza 2.5. My car has 125,000 miles and I took it into subaru to get routine maintenance. Of course they told me a few things I should fix on my car, one of which was a leaking valve cover gasket. Before I took it in I also noticed that my car has been making a noisy ticking sound. I believe that the ticking sound has always been there but seems to be louder than in the past. When I talked to the Subaru Tech he told me that there wasn't much he could do unless I wanted to spend 1K plus trying to tinker with the valvles to figure out what the problem was. The service writer told me it wasn't a big deal and I went on my way. Although I would love to just believe that there is nothing wrong with my car, I would like to see if there is anyone out there that can give me a little more information on this subject. I have read that a "Ticking" noise from Subaru's is quite common but the causes can vary. Below are two links of my car with the engine running. If anyone can provide help, it would be very much appreciated! Videos
