Search the Community
Showing results for tags 'Water pump'.
Found 24 results
-
I finally pulled the short block (SOA478H600R1) that I purchased a couple months ago out of the box and put onto a stand. Changed out the 7mm oil pump for a 9mm that I had (I don't think I'll need a 10mm as I'm a conservative driver, and this is just for a DD project). Looking at the pistons, they're labeled as 255 SH. Is this going to be a problem mounting with DOHC heads? When I was talking with a subaru parts tech over the phone I had specified that I wanted an EJ251 or EJ253 short block for '03-'05, and they had given me the part number. I had then talked with a different Parts Tech, and they confirmed that that part number was for what I had specified. Are the pistons the same? I thought the 255s were used with the AVL systems, and can't work with pre-AVLS. . Should I be looking for new pistons now? The current motor in my car is an EJ from a 2001 Impreza, with DOHC heads. I wanted to recreate the build as it is generally a nice and powerful (enough) motor. Also, I bought a brand new subaru water pump because I thought the stock one that came on the block was supposed to be forward facing.... What showed up is identical to the spare I bought. They are identical, right? Thanks all, Greg
- 2 replies
-
- 1
-
-
- frankenmotor
- dohc
- (and 11 more)
-
has anyone encountered alternative water pump pulley a, say a Nissan item, that shares same diameter, b9lt pattern, offset - just as a single V pulley? All I have I think, are double V pulleys. what an amazing standard of metal origami it is too. They must have started out as flat sheet metal and been pressed with such force and accuracy to come out the way they have. The multi rib ones are cast or machined rather than pressed plate. ideally I am after a pulley to run the inner line of belt only, and not even have the front pulley, for my plan is to run an edis 36-1 crank trigger on the front of my crank pulley - machined lip to run it flush. Many years ago someone ran their crank trigger on the rear V, cutting the rear V off the water pump pulley for clearance. The drive flow for the rear V of WP pulley must come from the front, so cannot cut or reduce the front V. Those that know these WP might recall two deck heights of the WP flange, 105 and 110 I think the 105 is for the thicker mounting boss of the solid 5PK multi rib flat belt WP pulley. I may have enough WP shaft to press the flange down to maybe a deck height of 80 mm say, and mount the front half of a pressed 2V pulley, rear V removed to achieve my objective. Why not duplicate original edis conversion? i am having trouble seeing the pick up VR mounting correctly so close to TB covers ( in my head visually I recall seeing rear pulley near rub on these covers)
-
Hi everyone, as a teen in Australia, I always wanted to own a spacey-looking Subaru Vortex.. or as I now understand, an "XT" in the USA. Now (thanks to a local selling website) I've bought one for just a few hundred dollars, in need of a bit of mechanical work. This '86 front-wheel-drive manual (non-turbo) model has been owned by an older couple for the last 9 years or so, and another older owner before them (who seems to have put a St Christopher medal on the dash). It has high mileage - just over 300,000 kilometres - but over 32 years I suppose that's not so bad. It's quite rare here, as I know it is in America. The most recent owner had it serviced at the local Subaru dealer a couple of years ago, and they'd never seen one in the flesh. The only disappointment is that mine doesn't have the digital dashboard. Last December, the couple backed it out of the garage, and water poured out from under the hood - so they put it back in the garage, and didn't get it fixed (they had another car, and only the wife can now drive). They called a mechanic and described the problem over the phone, and were told it was likely to be the water pump gasket. I've filled up the cooling system and started it, and the water does indeed flow out from near the top of the engine. I'm getting my mechanic to check it out this coming week, as I'm not at all familiar with flat four engines. I've just removed the lambswool seat covers, to reveal another set of seat covers underneath, then a very good condition passenger seat, but a worn driver's seat. I'll see if I can get it re-done in a sympathetic 80s velour. I want to keep it as stock as possible. Hopefully I can give it a workout on the road soon! I'll be looking up your good advice on this site, cheers
-
Hi All, This is my first post here. I recently did a timing belt on my 1999 Legacy Outback Wagon, with a new water pump. Job went well, all parts bolted up and timing came out fine, no problems running now. However, even after burping the cooling system with a radiator bucket, multiple times, the car still overheats and I don't feel heat. There are no signs of a blown head gasket that I can tell, the car runs fine and doesn't smell or smoke or anything, has full power. What should my next step be? I replaced the thermostat with a genuine Subaru thermostat. My water pump is one of the old style pumps, with the teeth as opposed to the disc. Help!! I'm not sure what to do! -
Hi Everyone, It’s been 2 months now of researching, reading every thread I can, trying, monitoring with no success; I am now totally stuck and don’t see what else I can do to solve my issue, and this is driving me mad ^^ ! I have a Subaru Impreza Hatchback 1998, EJ15 GF1, manual, petrol, with now 190,000 km. Small engine, pretty well maintained, I change all filters and oil every 10k since I have it, the previous owner was taking care of it and I bought it after the cam belt and water pump were changed professionally by a garage., around 170k. So one day (around 187k) I noticed the car smelled a bit like overheating engine. I checked under the bonnet and noticed that the fans were not working. After more in depth checking I noticed that the lower radiator hose was cold and there was no pressure in the radiator. So bought a new thermostat and gasket (original Subaru) and new coolant, tried it with the new one and didn’t change a thing, the damn thing stays closed. Tested both thermostats in hot water, they both work fine. I then tried to run the car without the thermostat, I get good pressure, the coolant is flowing, I could properly burp the cooling system and I could see the radiator was not clogged, but surprisingly the fans still did not turn on. So I bought new temperature sensor and sender and tried again, but nothing changed, the fans don’t turn on. I checked all the fuses, under the steering wheel and under the bonnet, tested the relays with the test wires under the steering wheel and both relays and fans work fine. (I also bypassed the relays with fuses and this turns on the fans, no problem). The very weird thing is that when the thermostat is installed and the engine running, the temperature gauge comes up to the optimal position, slightly below the middle, and stays there, even though the engine keeps heating. I don’t have an infrared thermometer but I can tell by the smell and the heat, and the fact then the thermostat stays closed and fans stay off, that something is wrong and that the engine is too hot. It really smells like overheating engine and the hoses and engine are reeeeally hot. Before this began happening, when it worked well, the fans turned on and off automatically and I could tell when the thermostat opened and closed, it was all fine. I tested all sensors, new and old, with a multimeter and they all work fine, even the thermostats in hot water both open and close correctly. I contacted a mechanic friend who checked everything, he used a pretty strong product to clean the cooling system in case there would be some kind of stop-leak or stuff clogging the system, but nothing, the circuit is clean. I even used a thin brush to try to clean possible depot around the sensor areas, but nothing came out, all is clean… I also cleaned the cooling system with my garden hose, I know it's not recommended but I was out of options, I confirm that water flows through everything and came out clean. (I rinsed with demineralised water several times after this and put new coolant). I feel like I did everything I could, I don’t see what else to do. I am not sure this could be related, but (I think) this began happening the same month that someone tried to steal it, or at least I noticed this cooling issue like a month after. No big issue from these unskilled robbers, who just broke the door handle and damaged the ignition, but it took me like 2 weeks to fix this, but during this time I removed the battery from the car because I could not close it and I don’t have a garage. So the car stayed quite a long time without a battery. I thought this could have done something to the ECU (I have nearly no knowledge about this part of cars) but anyways, this should not impact the thermostat which is a purely mechanic part. So Guys, I don’t knot what else I can do. I am pretty sure that the radiator is fine, I have been driving without a thermostat since, the engine takes longer to heat and the temperature tends to decrease at high speed and increase at idle and low speeds (no fans working, remember) which seem logical to me. Also the heater core seems fine, heat turns on and off, no problem. If you have any idea what might be going on I’d be super keen hearing your opinion, this is getting so frustrating. Cheers guys, thanks for reading ! Oh and it's not a head gasket by the way, already checked, oil and coolant are fine, I changed both.- 41 replies
-
- 2
-
-
- thermostat
- sensor
- (and 8 more)
-
Hey, is there any secret to installing the small rubber hose from the waterpump to the metal cooling line? It's very hard to get the rubber hose to slide on the metal line because the metal tube want to flex on the tabs that hold it to the block. Is there a Secret Lube to help it slide on? Trick? Thanks -
I just replaced timing belts and did my water pump too. I put water pump rtv on both sides of thegasket. Got the bolts snug till it ooZed the waited an hour then snugged them down. I took just a scraper to clean the old stuff off. I started the car up and i noticed it leaking. This had been days after I installed the new water pump before I started the car. Should I take the water pump off and get a new seal? The seal that came with the pump looks really thin and cheap too I noticed. Any advice??
-
Alright here we go again, sorry for all the parts questions recently. Just wanna make sure I'm getting the right stuff and I know you guys know your spoob obviously. So here we go. looking at water pump for the EA82 online and I'm finding two different hub heights. one being.... 4.087" the other 4.320" not sure which to get. I'm thinking the difference in hub heights is either with or w/o AC. I don't have AC so I'm thinking the shorter one, but honestly just a guess and don't wanna get the wrong one. lemme know if ya'll have knowledge on this. ALSO, I'm totally unfamiliar with auto manufactures as they relate to quality. RockAuto has a few to select from.... ACDELCO GATES AIRTEX CARDONE AISIN Delco being most expensive and Gates being least. Anyone have brand preference? -
Hi All, New user here. My son and I just installed a new water pump in his 1995 Legacy Outback. He was a little over zealous in tightening the lower left side bolt which is located beside the neck for the lower radiator hose. At this point, I think we are stuck with just finishing the job. Just wondering if anyone has broken one off when installing a water pump. Thanks Don -
So... My brother has a 98 Legacy, I believe its an EJ25. Bare with me, there is a lot of random symptoms/info here. Occasionally it overheats, so I looked at it. Its spitting out trouble codes P0480 and P0483, which are both fan related. Fans seem to work fine, while watching them. With my scanner, I watched the temp rise (the defrost was on), the fans (and ac compressor) would come on for about 30 sec then turn off. And the temp continued to rise. At 215F I turned off the defrost and the temp returned to 185F. What? Thermostat opened? Extra load eliminated? Weird thing is, when its running hot the coolant doesn't 'seem' to be flowing... Top radiator hose hot, low cold. I can open the radiator cap even when hot, which seems no pressure. I can put my finger in the coolant and its merely cool or lukewarm. Haven't drained to check thermostat, but he says it was replaced 'last time.' Radiator cep he hasn't replaced. So... (In order of my personal unprofessional opinion and economical preference)... Rad cap? Clogged radiator? Failed pump? Thermostat? Head gaskets... I have but didnt use a compression/head tester due to the apparent lack of coolant flow. But theres no bubbles in the coolant reservoir. I dont thinknot will tell me anything. All input appreciated. Thanks all. -
Hello I am a newbie that loves working on his new 1985 Subaru GL Wagon. I am wondering if any of you can tell me how hard it is or if there are any special tricks to changing a water pump. The Mechanic I took it to said it was leaking in multiple places and was wanted 450 to change it. Considering I bought it for $500 I figure I should do it myself. If you have any info on changing the pump, or any manuals for the 85 GL it would be hugely appreciated. Thank you, Dewey
-
Hi, I'm in need of some serious help. I will try to give the short version, and as detailed as possible to try not to take up too much of anyone's time. Ok here it goes.... I had a water leak on my 2000 Legacy 2.5 motor SOHC. I checked all the hoses, everything seems fine. Notice that while filling up the radiator with coolant a steady stream was just pouring from the bottom of the engine, and upon further inspection it seems like it's coming from underneath the timing belt cover. The car has 154,000 mi on it....I figured it was time to change the water pump perhaps. I did this job years ago on my other Subaru which was an older DOHC engine. I know that I did a lot of things wrong in this job. I'm going to get to all of that shortly. When removing the timing belt, I didn't make good marks (yes I know!) The notch on the crank sprocket wasn't exactly at 12 oclock position when I took off the timing belt. It was 'kind of' but not there. It was closer to say...12:30, near that notch marker on the oil pump, but you could clearly see that it was not lined up. As I took off the timing belt the driver's side cam immediately sprung closed. Like I said, I did this before on a DOHC motor. I watched one of briansmobile's videos in the past that discussed the SOHC timing belt, but neglected to watch it again, or consult any other resource before I started this job. So I continued with removing and replacing the water pump and went back to the computer to look at some resources before I put the car back together. I viewed some threads on this board, and in a few youtube videos that I watched that pretty much says, if both left and right cams, and crank are all lined up to 12:00 to the notches up there the car should run fine. I did exactly that, line up the notches, reattach everything. The car does not start. Bummer. I went back to the internet now to look at this information in detail to find where/how I could have gone wrong and this is where I am stuck. 1. I heard that to line up the notch on the crank you should turn it either clockwise or counterclockwise no more than 90 degrees till you get it on the mark. Line up the cams and you are good. This I did NOT do. The notch went around a full 360 degrees once, maybe twice before I lined it up. The reason why I believe it went twice is because it is hard for me to see down there, I had a flashlight aimed toward the notch and I missed it the first time, I just kept going back around until it came back again. Then I lined it up. When lining up the cams, I turned both of them counter clockwise to find the notches. I did turn the crank bolt over 2x to make sure that everything was lined up, and when it went 720 the lines did all come back to 12:00 (although the notch on the crank still looks a little off to the right by my eye). I noticed that when I turned the engine 360 degrees that the notches on the cam point to 6:00 and the notch on the crank goes to 12:00. What I did was I turned the engine into this position, loosened the belt again and turned the cams to 12:00 and put it back together. This time the car started, however it runs horrible for about 10-15 seconds then it stalls out. When I try to give it a little gas it chokes. I don't hear any knocking or anything like that. It just runs like crap, and definitely not long enough, or under enough power to move on it's own even one inch. I am glad that at least the car started a bit. I tried to take off the belt, make minor adjustments like rotating the right side cam 360 then put it back on, and then the left. I did this over the weekend and still no luck. It still started, however ran just as rough, and now I'm stalling out in 5 seconds or less. I didn't do anything else for fear of messing up the engine majorly. I hope I didn't mess anything up already. My car ran great before I decided to change the water pump. No check engine lights. I didn't mess with the cam position sensor, or the crank position sensor either. All I touched was the water pump/timing belt/tensioner. The tensioner/belt appear to be in good condition. The belt feels tight on reassembly. What I'd like to know is is there some kind of way to know is there a certain kind of way to know if everything on the inside of this engine is in alignment? The videos I see are very helpful, but they only go into detail of how to take off a timing belt, make marks, small adjustments, reattach. What I've done is..... 1. I've lost track of how many times I spun the crank in a full circle with the belt disconnected. 2. I've lost track of how many times I spun the cams around in a full circle, and they have each been spun a different number of times (sigh) What I am hoping will save me (hopefully) is that I didn't make any attempt to start the car until I had all 3 notches pointed at 12:00. Please PLeeeease help if you can. My car has been down for two weeks now. I drive 40 miles to work each day and the only reason I got a little time to breathe is because it's the holidays and a lot of people aren't in the office. In a short period of time everything is going to get busy again. I really need my car. To whoever is reading, I know that I said I would keep it as short as possible, I did try. However after looking at other people's posts who had similar problems I figured I'd try to say as much as I can as to where I am at so you know all the steps that I've done already. Thanks for reading :-) -
Hi All - 2009 Outback - I am replacing timing belt and water pump. Does anyone have any experience with after market timing belts? I have heard to use only Subaru water pump, but have also been told that the after market timing belt manufacturer is also the Subaru supplier. Any thoughts? Thanks! -
Hey everyone, so i decided I would take everyone's advice and getting the timing belt done on my 95 legacy. It has 264k on it and I have no idea when it was done last. I ordered this one:http://m.ebay.com/itm/260925109309?_mwBanner=1 off eBay. It came highly recommended by several experienced members on this site. I've been considering this for a couple weeks now and have read as many tutorials as I could find and am confident I can do this. I had a couple questions about the job though. One is that I see the kit comes with 5 seals. The four cam seals and the fifth one. The fifth gasket would be the crank seal right? It doesn't say on the kits description. Another thing, what will I use to seal the water pump? I've heard RTV silicone will work but other said it won't. Any opinions from somebody who has actually done this? Another thing, this model of the Subaru is a NON-INTERFERENCE engine correct? Everything I read says that it is. Just wanna make sure as it makes this job a little easier. And lastly, does anyone who has done this before have any recommendations or cautions for me for a person who's a newbie on timing belts? Are there any other seals or small things I should take care of while I'm in there? Also, does anyone have a sheet of the torque specs on every individual component? I wanna make sure to get everything right. I have the FSM for this but it's in PDF form and I can't find the right page. Thanks -
Hello All, I'm new to the forum, here's the information: 1996 Subaru Legacy (300,000 miles). Over heated yesterday- on the "H", check engine light on, go to Autozone, code reads P0125, list "coolant temp is always low" then list probable cause "661-check coolant level"- checked, fine "662=Thermostat defective"- replacted thermostat, then boiled old one and it popped open, so it was never in need of replacement then "663= ECT (engine coolant temparature) sensor defective"- I don't even know what this is did nothing with it. Then today, I had to pick my son up from school (single/astrologer mom who lives on student loans and near nothing pay), car makes it to school (no over heating), when we leave school car overheats, all the way to H- then car dies in street (hear what sounds like loud knocking 5 seconds before it dies). Car restarts, I pull over, wait for it to cool, then I drive home (3 miles) on "H" almost instantly. Now it's parked outside, I have 0 support system and need this car to continue living if possible. I burbed the radiator/bled it, check out the oil it is NOT milky, no white smoke out of exhaust, no bubbles in resevioure, no black much in there either (though some brown muck that's been in there since I bought it 3 years ago), looked at outside of head gasket and around- no coolant, no visible signs. Is it the head gasket? The heater worked briefly on the ride to school (after I changed the fully functioning thermostat and flushed/bled radiator), then nothing but cold air the rest of the time. I know NOTHING about head gaskets other then the basic signs none of which I see though the car is in "H", the car DIED, and the heat is not blowing. Please, someone, anyone, help me. I truly need an angel right now. Also, as a side note I'm an astrologer and write weekly horoscopes, find me on FB or google Mystic Gwen. PLEASE HELP!!! The pic below is me and what I hope to be doing after one of you Yoda's guide me and that is smoking a CIGAR. For the love of God, Alah, Buddha, Hendrix and Geddy Lee- HELP ME.
-
I was encouraged to take care of everything while replacing the timing belts on our newer Subaru, the '89. The metal tube inserted nto the water pump has an O-Ring on it. The condition deems replacement is neccessary. The groove that it resides in is square in nature and the O-Ring is now sporting a rectancular cross-section. ~Is the O-Ring in question just a 25 year old bit of rubber which is now misshapen OR was this O-Ring originally shaped in a NOT-ROUND manner? Thank you, Gentlemen!
-
Ok folks, I'm hoping someone out there can help guide me to my problem area. I have a 2001 outback wagon with the 2.5L. It runs greats, but recently is have been pushing the antifreeze into the overflow and not drawing it back into the system. I did the obvious and changed out the radiator cap for a new one. That was not the problem. I put the car up in the air and pulled the cover off to have a look at the head gaskets. They were dry. I squeezed the lower radiator hose and had antifreeze come out of the thermostat housing. I figured the gasket went bad and replaced it. That seemed to work for a bit, but on my way back from a 300+ mile trip the car began having the same symptoms again. I stopped, shut the car off and burped they system until I was able to open the cap. The overflow was full but the radiator was again low on fluid. I topped it off and made it home with no trouble. My thoughts are it's the waterpump, but I had already replaced that no more than 8 months ago when the timing belt was done. I am hoping it's not the head gasket, but I am not sure. Wondering if anyone else out there had a similar problem and could tell me what they had done to fix it. Thanks for taking the time to read/reply folks! -
I posted earlier tonight about a recent cylinder misfire. In that thread, Fairtax4me suggested that I make sure my timing belt hasn't slipped. But even if the timing belt isn't the source of my current engine dilemma, I figure I should make that my next DIY project. Supposing I want to order a complete timing belt component kit, including idlers, tensioner, and a water pump---can anyone offer advice on where to go for quality components? My car is a '99 Legacy Outback 2.5L with 230,000 miles. I have found components kits on RockAuto.com and eBay ranging in price from $150 to almost $400. I understand OEM quality components are desirable, but I don't know who the OEM manufacturer(s) are. Also, I wonder if it's overkill for me to worry about OEM with an older car. I don't know about the reputations of the various aftermarket manufacturers. Can you suggest a reasonable plan of attack, brands you trust, or a preferred online vendor? Thanks! -
It's has over 200,000 miles on it, it has the 2.2 SOHC, paid $500 for it knowing it had a bad water pump and is stuck in front wheel drive. It was a gamble I know... So I replaced the water pump, thermostat, timing belt, some bad gears, the spark plugs and the wires. It's still overheating, only takes a minute or so to overheat, there's no external coolant leaks, no white smoke. No coolant in the oil. It has the standard head gasket leak, so some oil burns off the engine which is expected because it's been sitting a while. I understand that there could be air in the coolant system, so i am going to try "burping" it... I'm also getting a new radiator cap. Then if that doesn't work, I'm going to try draining it and adding the coolant more slowly and carefully. Then, I'm going to see if the new thermostat works by putting it in hot water, and I am going to make sure it was installed correctly. If that doesn't work, I can purchase a replacement engine for $500, and I have low labor costs so that's not too much of an issue. There doesn't seem to be any problems with the tranny, besides the front wheel drive issue that a transfer case should fix, but I haven't driven it over 10 mph yet because of the overheating. So essentially, I was wondering if there was anything else I can do/check for before buying an engine. (It'll cost less in labor to buy a new engine as opposed to replacing the head gaskets) I'm also considering saying screw it and buying another Subie, but we shall see where the wind blows on that one. -
First, I want to say a big thank you to everyone here that takes the time to post their knowledge on this forum. It is so rare to find a forum with a useful knowledge base, but I found one here. I bought a 92 Loyale Wagon 5 spd 4WD about the end of July 2013 from a used car dealer. About 225,000 miles. Probably paid way too much for it... In any case, it was exactly what I was looking for, it just needed a little bit of work . I knew the clutch needed replacing when I test drove it, but thought to myself that shouldn't be too hard, I've replaced dozens and dozens of clutches in my former life (16 years) as a professional mechanic. Little did I know... I joined USMB the same day I brought home the Loyale and started reading everything I could find out about the clutch job. I have never done a Subaru or a 4WD clutch before, but it's just a few more pieces to remove and replace, right? Thanks to the videos that Miles Fox has posted on YouTube, I thought I was ready to go. I live in an apartment building, no place to work on a car, they frown when I lift the hood to check the oil in my wife's Suzuki. I found a gravel pit about 30 miles away out in the woods that I can use to work on the car. No power tools, no shelter, no lift, no engine hoist. This is the Pacific Northwest, where it rains every other day, and I drive the car daily to work, so my opportunities to work on the car are very limited. When I crawled under the car, the first thing I noticed was the torn axle boot on the inner drivers side, so off the wife went for a new axle ($60 from O'Reilly's, and they stock it!) I had ordered an Exedy Clutch kit from Amazon ($155 including shipping!) No way to pull the engine, so had to slide the transaxle back and down, using bungee cords to hold the driveshaft in (no oil loss). It only took about 3x longer than I had planned, and I had to leave the car overnight and return to finish the next day. While buttoning up the project I noticed coolant dripping out of the timing belt cover area. I had already given some thought to replacing the timing belt since I did not know the history, so I added a water pump to the mental shopping list, as well as the mouse o-ring for the oil pump. Over the next two weeks it became a ritual to add about a quart of coolant every day as the water pump was dripping steadily. Finally, back to the gravel pit last weekend with a new Aisin Water pump ($40 from Amazon), a new oil pump gasket ($7 from Amazon), a Cloyes Timing Belt Kit ($70, Amazon) and the upper and lower radiator hoses and the other small right-angle hose that connects to the water-pump, as well as a Subaru OEM Thermostat and radiator cap that I picked up at the Subaru dealer in Tacoma. Following Miles' video it was a snap to change the timing belts. The covers had been broken previously and wedged back into position; I threw them away as I removed them. Changed the Water Pump and hoses and the oil pump gasket (it was OK) while the radiator was out. Inspected the radiator, I've seen lots of these plastic side tanks come off, but these looked OK, and as far as I could see inside the filler neck the interior of the radiator looked good also. Everything went back together well. I (once again, a HUGE thanks to Miles!) followed Miles' video instructions on getting the air out of the cooling system. Everything went well. Headed for home, about 5-6 miles up the road, the temp gauge started to climb. Pulled over, added about a half gallon of coolant. Back on the road, about 5 miles later the gauge started to climb. Pulled over, added coolant. See the pattern yet? About 5 miles, stop, add coolant... I considered that it might be possible that I was not successful in getting the cooling system purged of air. The next day, after work, while still parked at work, I removed the thermostat. I filled the radiator until the block was full up to the thermostat housing (a little trick I figured out back in the early 80's for those new-fangled front wheel drive cars with low radiators), inserted the thermostat, buttoned up, and once again followed the video procedure for purging the system. After it was purged, I sat and idled for about 20 minutes, no drips, no visible coolant, system has pressure on it. Started towards home. About 5 miles later, the temp gauge again started to climb... While washing my greasy, oily clothes at the local laundromat, I parked out back and removed the Subaru OEM Thermostat and closed up the engine, filled the system, good coolant flow all the time of course. Now, the temp gauge barely nudges off the bottom line, until suddenly, at about 5 miles, it starts to climb up. Again, I stop, add about a half gallon of coolant, drive 5 miles, add half a gallon, drive 5 miles, add half a gallon... I don't think I have actually overheated it yet, the highest the gauge has gone is about 3/4 to the red line (Used to run at about 1/4). I'm no longer leaving an antifreeze puddle on the ground when parked. I don't know where the coolant is going. Heater works great, no discernible leakage in the interior. No clouds of smoke from the tailpipe of any sort. When I stop to add coolant, there might be a little whiff of coolant on the top of the engine, near the throttle body, but it vanishes so quickly when I open the hood that I'm not sure yet. Does anyone have any idea what I am not seeing here? It's been 20+ years since the last time I worked on a Subaru, I'm not familiar with their quirks and special needs. What am I missing? -
It's a 96 Legacy LS 2.2 L SOHC with 202,000 miles on it, and unsure of previous maintenance. It had a bad water pump, replaced water pump, timing belt, thermostat, wires/spark plugs, changed oil. It has a slow oil leak coming from the front passenger side of the engine, so I am planning to replace both cam seals, crank seal, and cam oring(s). It has a constant check engine light, it kicks the knock sensor code so I am planning to replace the knock sensor too. The battery terminals corrodes really fast, so I am planning on replacing the battery, battery cables and terminals as well. It seems to run great most of the time, but it sporadically will crank and not start (cranks fine, not slow or tired at all). I have tried disconnecting the battery and reconnecting the battery in case of a sensor issue, and tried jumping it in case of low battery issue. Tried flooring it to start it as well. Previously, when it decides not to start, it won't start at all, but if I try to start it the next day, it'll start immediately. Last night I was out and it wasn't starting so i had my boyfriend bang on the fuel tank in case of a fuel pump/fuel filter issues. A few minutes after the fuel tank banging, it's started fine. It also sporadically has trouble responding to me depressing the gas pedal. I'll depress the pedal a bit more to accelerate, and it'll almost seem to do nothing, until I depress it a lot more, then suddenly the rpms will jump and it will suddenly start to accelerate. It seems to have this issue more when I am driving up hills. Other times it will maintain speeds of 40+ for a bit with my foot off the gas ans without decelerating much. So I believe that replacing the fuel pump and filter will fix the starting problem, and the acceleration issue. I am hoping that the acceleration problem is not the transmission. Do my proposed repairs align with the issues I'm having? And is there any other maintenance that would be recommended on my car since it's got so many miles and an unknown maintenance history?
-
Hi all, I am poised to buy a 2003 Forester with only 91,000 miled on it. One previous owner, no accidents, carfax looks great mostly dealer serviced local to where I am buying it from. $6995, with tax and conveyance fee it'll be just shy of $8,000. Dealership did timing belt, waterpump, and head gasket. Tires look new. 1: Would you say go for it? This is my first sube and I'm switching from an '01 camry. I really need a wagon for this summer. I hear these last forever so when I saw one with less than 100,000 miles I pounced on it. 2: Where/how can anyone suggest I get an extended warranty? The dealership is only offering a 60 day warranty. While I consider myself a fairly educated person, I don't know much about buying cars as I've been driving my camry forever- so feel free to point out anything you might consider obvious that I might not have considered yet. I will be making my decision on it very soon, I have paid them to hold the car for a couple days while I come up with the money. A big thanks! -
In an effort to eliminate my TOD for good, i'm gonna swap out my oil pump, so i'm looking for a new one, but haven't found any that aren't priced very reasonably online. hoping to get some tips one tracking down one directly. and if i'm gonna be in there doing the oil pump, might as well do the water pump while i'm at it. they seem a lot cheaper than the oil pump, but if anyone has suggestions or a line on a water pump, i'd be very happy to know. thanks much! -
So, the dealer says $450 to change all the belts, including the timing belt. This other guy at different shop tells me that he guarantees me that the water pump would need to be changed, too (and a few other things he mentioned that I can't recall) for $1200. I'm at about 110K miles on this car, it seems to be running fine. Nobody has looked at it yet, I'm just shopping around for estimates because I know it's about time for a timing belt. I got a new radiator less than a year ago. Anyway, any advice? I'd appreciate it!
