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Showing results for tags 'Wrx'.
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Hey all, got a bit of a problem. I have an 05 WRX STI that I got used with 70,000 miles on it. Owner said the engine had been swapped with a 20,000 mile unit. I have owned the car almost a year now. Mods it came with: Invidia cat back exhaust. Cobb intake Grimspeed turbo solenoid AOS of unknown brand Aluminum mishimoto radiator Cobb accessport running stage 1 tune of unknown origin. Mods I installed: Killerbee oil pickup Prosport oil pressure and voltage gauges. I run Castrol 5W30 premium full synthetic. Now on to the problem. I was driving home one night, about 12 miles. I was driving spiritedly, but definitely not thrashing it. I pull into a gas station at the edge of the town I live in and notice smoke from under the hood. There is oil all over the passenger side strut tower and on the turbo and down pipe. I check the oil level, and it's right on the money. I decide to drive it the 8 blocks home and keep a close eye on the oil pressure. Oil pressure is fine all the way home, I open the hood and check again. There doesn't appear to be any additional oil on the strut tower or surrounding area. I have thought for awhile that it gets hotter under the hood than it ought to, but my temp gauge never climbs past the third mark up that's before the red zone. I have yet to pull it apart and look in depth, in the meantime anyone have any ideas as to what may have happened? My current theory is that the banjo bolt for the oil line on top of the turbo went bad. As always, thanks in advance. -
Concerning the Cobb issue with taking Accesstuner offline i have been working on compiling versions of ATR for helping others out. So far i have ATR for 02-03 wrx, 04 Wrx, 05 WRX, 04 Sti and 15 Wrx. If anyone has any other download they wanna share or help distribute let me know. I am putting together a database for all. Pm me for a link. Michael Rock -
Hey all. Last week I bought a 2005 WRX STI with 67000 miles. Now I am discovering several things that didn't get discovered during the test drive and the owner didn't mention. It has a Cobb tuning access port that was running a "custom" tune. That tune supposedly added 30 HP, but it killed any and all fuel mileage and was causing a bank 1 too rich code. I reflashed it to the Cobb factory economy tune, now I have 7 different check engine codes. Evap system error/PCV system error and the rest are low sensor voltage errors. It would not let me do the realtime map swaps while it was flashed to the custom tune. Now that it is flashed to a Cobb tuner factory map I can realtime any map other than the custom map. It has a Cobb short cold intake, a Mishimoto radiator, Grimspeed turbo solenoid controller, and Ohlin race coilovers. It also has a clicking noise from the tranny. It is worst in second gear, but can also be heard in first, neutral and reverse. It is absent when the clutch is disengaged and you sit still, but you can hear it faintly when rolling to a stop with the clutch in. I discovered much to my anger and disappointment that the tranny had been being run with almost no oil in it for several hundred miles after they had a shop install a new clutch. Currently my biggest worry is to get the ECU squared away. I want it to run on something other than their custom tune without throwing half a dozen engine codes. All of my subi experience has been from restoring my BRAT and XT, only 80s subis. This is a bit new for me. Thanks in advance.
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My '06 WRX failed to get me more than 1/3 the way to work this morning. Had a few drops or 'water' up on the winshield near left A pillar, then had a subtle hot coolant smell. Then a wisp of steam. Pulled into a lot, popped the hood. Wet all around front left. High enough that it was blowing back from the hood at the fender panel. Never saw any pinhole stream or active dripping. O'flow tank at mid level , never overheated according to gauge. Went back home. Haven't looked in rad yet - cooling off now. Pulled the snorkel and saw a little gel-booger with dried white-ish deposit 'blown-back' from center-ish area of top tank.(will try to post pic, I haven't really firgured out how to do that very well yet) Everything so far looks like a crimp leak or maybe a crack? in top of rad.? Fans are cycling so, I feel the temp gauge was properly reporting and there seems to be no sign of a headgasket issue . Kinda also wondering about best replacement rad. Denso? TYC? Other? Is there a brand I should prefer or, maybe more important, avoid? I wouldn't ming paying for quality. In Texas, I need as much cooling capacity as I can get. Not really wanting to modify the car so, drop-in prefered of course. Any other work I should do 'while I'm in there' ? I have original hoses so, I plan to replace those. Although it's been wiped away, the little 'gel-like' deposit was near that bolt-head, on the vertical surface of the front brace above the rad's front crimp area. To me, obviously associated with that white deposit. Couold have been seeping for some time.
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WHATS UP GUYS!! Check out my YouTube channel for the most up to date progress! https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLhvLjCFIoC6LFmt17Fu4Pj5WL74FBU0qw Been browsing this forum for a few months trying to get ideas for my project and I finally decided to join and build it along with you guys! Open to any advice/criticism but doesnt necessarily mean I will listen to it! The beginning of this thread will basically be a copy and paste from an existing thread I have on another forum! I'm planning to do wrx engine, trans, suspension components, even dashboard! currently(10/30) I nearly have the front end completed (for now) as it sits now, I am currently on this setup stock brat crossmember modded to accept EJ engine mount and wrx control arms stock brat manual steering rack 1" crossmember spacer wrx control arms wrx knuckles wrx/sti struts 04 sti stock springs stock brat 2 bolt top hat (temporary) brat radius arm mount bracket modded to fit wrx control arm custom tranny mount pic of it arriving at the shop.. yay for selectable awd ouchhh.. nice and crusty time to get a good look at her found this girl as my drivetrain donor (parting out other parts) time to cut her all up
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I have a 2011 wrx limited and I'm looking to second hand purchase BC Racing coilovers that were from a 2005 wrx wagon. Would they be compatible with my car?
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Hi guys, I have a 2010 WRX thats only hitting about 9lbs of boost on 91 octane SF Intake stage 1 tune Cobb AP. I was wondering if this is normal or should i be seeing higher PSI Levels? I also have noticed a exhaust smell coming from engine bay on passenger side....thumb.jpg.b4db20b2f1ae50613d33110c73128c3e.jpg)
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I'm attempting to turbo my N/A ej22, car is a 1999 Legacy L 30th Anniversary edition. I don't see why a phase 2 ej25 head won't mate up with the phase 2 ej22 block and they are both SOHC but I know that there is greater wisdom than I posses lurking in these forums. My ej22 block has single port heads and I want to swap them our for the ej25 duel port heads in order to run boost. what issues do I face? will the heads mate right up to the ej22 in a "plug and play" way? will my stock ECU know what to do with the ej25 cam? Any general advice? I will also be switching the full intake manifold so advice on that would be greatly appreciated. Are there different sensors I need to be aware of? Line placement issues? -
I just bought a 2005 Baja and would like to upgrade the engine to a WRX. Is this possible?
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If you’ve followed the sport of rally over the last twenty years, there’s a good chance you’ve heard the name Richard Burns. He is by far one of the most notable and successful World Rally drivers of the 90’s and 2000’s. From 1999 through 2001, Burns was competing in the World Rally Championship under the Prodrive-run, Subaru World Rally Team, where he piloted the Impreza WRC to an overall victory in the 2001 Championship. Known to be one of the smoothest and most methodical drivers of his time, he continued to compete in WRC under the Peugeot flag, however he was one of few people to drive in one of the most iconic rally cars ever. The name “Subaru” has been synonymous with rally around the world for many years and is probably one of the most iconic names, not only in American rally, but rallies around the world as well. Nearly every rally championship worldwide has Subarus competing (and dominating) the classes they run in. DirtFish owner and rally fan, Steve Rimmer, has acquired one amazing collection of legendary rally cars over the years. One of which is a beautiful “World Rally blue” 1999 Subaru Impreza WRC99 adorned with one of the most classic and memorable liveries to ever be on the side of a Subaru. Built by Prodrive in the UK and never actually raced, the car was a gift to Burns as a “congrats and thanks” for winning the 2001 World Rally Championship driver’s title. Sadly, he only owned the car for about two years before a brave battle with brain cancer took his life. After the Burns’ passing in 2005, the car became a part of his estate. The ownership of the estate was then transferred to the Richard Burns Foundation, which was setup by some of Burns’ closest friends and colleagues with the goal of helping people who are affected by serious illnesses and injuries. Rimmer purchased the car from the foundation, giving them liquidity, which helped fund and establish grants that are awarded by them; it also allowed them to hire staff to raise further funds. This meticulously prepared 22B was built to the same specifications as the car Burns piloted in the WRC and is very well equipped, even by today’s standards. The engine that helps propel the car’s 2700 lbs is the quintessential EJ20 boxer engine still found in Subarus today. The engine block and heads are milled from aluminum, each cylinder has 4 valves and the cars is equipped with an IHI turbo charger, producing 300 BHP at 5500 rpm and a massive 480 lbs/ft of torque at 4000 rpm. In laymen’s terms; this is one quick car with phenomenal acceleration. The drivetrain is very similar to what would be found in today’s top-level rally cars: it has a Prodrive 6-speed sequential gearbox with computer-controlled hydraulic front, rear and center differentials. The Prodrive XTC McPherson struts and shock absorbers, at the time, were the best that money could buy and helped spawn the technology you see in not only rally cars today, but everyday road-going cars as well. With the speed and cornering covered, Prodrive didn’t skimp on the braking system either and equipped it with 4-pot AP Racing calipers and vented rotors. Although this car has never actually competed on a rally stage, it is an important car in rally today and a testament to three rally icons; Richard Burns, Subaru and Prodrive. Through the years it has aided in continuing Burns’ legacy through the foundation created in his name by helping people afflicted with serious illnesses and injuries. Head over to our Rally Media page to get this amazing car as your wallpaper! Article by: Trevor Wert (DirtFish) Photos by: Justin Fitch (DirtFish) -
Hello all, I am absolutely certain I am not the first, nor will I be the last to come on and ask about this particular issue pertaining to these transmissions. However I cannot find a clear answer from browsing other posts and forums, so here goes. My '02 Outback wagon has a 5-speed out of an early GD chassis Impreza WRX (Bugeye) installed. I recently had it rebuilt, as I didn't really know what the condition of it was and how many miles it had on it, and I also had the clutch replaced while the transmission was out of the car. For the past little while I've noticed that when slowing down with the car still in gear from about 3K RPM to about 2K RPM it makes this very distinct rattling/grinding noise. I have narrowed it down to a transmission fault as the noise is nowhere to be heard with the clutch disengaged, however what that fault is is somewhat unclear. The most prevalent response has been cheap transmission fluid (which would not surprise me in the least), to other more serious problems. So, I am seeking out help from you all to get a more concrete answer to this question. Some additional information if this may help with proceedings, the transmission can grind when shifting into first when at a stop (however this is often remedied with shifting into second before shifting into first), it occasionally grinds on the 3rd to 4th up shift (especially if you are or have been travelling at higher speeds, eg travelling on freeways although it does do it occasionally with low speed, in town driving), and very rarely on the 4th to 5th up shift during passing maneuvers. Recently, when the transmission is cold it will make a very loud rattling noise when moving off from a stop in first, and when idling at a stop in neutral. Once the transmission has warmed up a bit after a small amount of driving this more recent noise is no where to be heard. Any help on this matter would be greatly appreciated! -
Hey everyone, Im new to the forum and have been reading as much as I can. I know people have asked this question, but it seems like it was with the older models. Any input or advice would be greatly appreciated. So basically I'm finally looking to get my first subaru. I have it narrowed down to 2018 crosstrek premium with 6mt, 2018 forester 2.5i premium with 6mt or wrx, Currently wife has ram 1500 longhorn (5seater) and I have ram 2500 6seater. I have family of 6. This vehicle is supposed to be my toy / daily driver. Picking up a second job and will be traveling about 60 miles daily. I prefer the back roads winding through farms in erie vs the straight highway. Narrowed down to these 3 models because I want manual transmission to keep me engaged. I have tried paddles, but it just isn't the same. WRX all but eliminated because would probably have to trade in my truck to make it work. In my eyes, my ram is the family vehicle, so it needs to stay. BRZ is out for the same reason as Dodge challenger scatback with shaker body. My wife actually loves it as much as me, but rear drive in NE PA can't be daily driver and I would have to trade in family vehicle. The only other vehicle I am considering outside of subaru is civic SI, This is actually the best SI I have ever driven. She thinks it is sexy as a date car and it is fun to drive. I saw reports that the reliability is down for honda which I don't like. Pretty much leaves me with crosstrek vs. Forester. Local dealer doesn't have them on lot to test drive. It looks like I may need to drive to Pittsburgh or Ohio to drive both. In my uneducated opinion, crosstrek is impreza with clearance which is why I am not talking about the impreza. We have discussed the idea of needing to take 2 vehicles everywhere and she is fine with this. I am "ok" with this. Crosstrek wins the mileage and initial looks. Which is more fun to drive? Capable off road and in the snow? Being taller is the forester more likely to flip? Are all 2017 impreza accessories compatible with crosstrek? Is crosstrek or forester more reliable? I think like most people here my dream car would be crosstrek wrx. One can dream though. Thanks again. Jason
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Hello fellow Subaru fans, Backdrop: So a few years ago when I still lived in Indiana, I saw a 1982 Subaru BRAT on craigslist for $2700. I had never seen a Subaru BRAT before. A truck with T-Tops and seats in the back? That's pretty 80's! I looked around for how many there were for sale in the area on craigslist: 0. Surrounding area: 0. United States using searchtempest: only about 20 at the time and most were beaten up or rusted. This one had spent most its life in San Diego and then a garage, had no rust, 4 year old paint job and still ran (not well, but ran). I bought it that night. I realized pretty quickly after driving it that it was a dog... 73hp from the factory and after sitting for as long as this one had, I bet it wasn't topping 50hp. With the rebuild path requiring a decent amount of work only to get back to 73hp, I figured an engine swap was the better choice. I've been shopping for EJ22's for months now when I came across a deal on a wrecked 2002 WRX that I couldn't pass up: so it looks like I'm going to be building a Subaru BRAT WRX :-) The Build: Death and Taxes: I did some research after buying it and learned that the jump seats were installed to prevent a 25% tax on imported trucks from Japan (source: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Subaru_BRAT), which I thought was pretty clever. The import tax for passengar cars (which is legally what the BRAT was thanks to these seats) was only 2.5%. Maybe this makes me a bad citizen, but I love it when I find a way to pay less taxes! Once I had the BRAT in my garage I sat in the jump seats of the BRAT and realized that if this thing were to roll over, you are most certainly dead. I'm 5'11" and my entire head sits higher than the top of the cab. This reminded me of a quote from Benjamin Franklin in a letter to Jean-Baptiste Leroy in 1789 (source: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Death_and_taxes_(idiom)) "Our new Constitution is now established, and has an appearance that promises permanency; but in this world nothing can be said to be certain, except death and taxes." My goal is to lift the BRAT ~6" in the front and ~4" in the back (this should level it) and use the full drivetrain from the impreza: from the engine to the wheels (eventually upgrade wheels and tires), including suspension and brakes. I'll be designing brackets to mount everything and attempting to fabricate them myself. I'm a mechanical engineer so I'm not too worried about designing the brackets, more so my fabrication skills :-/ Worst case I'll outsource the fabrication. The fab shop I use at work is full of car guys so hopefully they'll give me a good price when they hear what I'm doing... I've never blogged or posted to a forum before, but I'll try to keep this updated as I go. I've already read a lot of the threads on here for similar builds but if anyone has any specific advice feel free to post it!
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Hey everyone! So this is my first post, and I'll be the first to admit that my knowledge is VERY limited. Here's the jist of the situation. I have a 1989 Subaru GL wagon that was given to me as a graduation present. He has been serving the family dutifully for years now, but is getting a little tired. I plan on spending the fortune I'm sure it will cost to get the dual range transmission fully rebuilt, but the engine is still lacking. Anyone who has owned this car knows that it really deserves to be a diesel. If nothing else, it's severely lacking in power, especially with the Toyota steelies that are on there right now. I have heard that people have put WRX engines in this car, and am wondering about the feasibility of that, versus other engines. I don't need an insane power boost, and I definitely want to keep the transmission. Like I said, in a perfect world I'd love to make him a diesel, but I realize that may be impossible. Thoughts? Suggestions? Has anyone tried a Golf TDI engine? (I realize that it would be a deviation from God's greatest gift to man, the boxer, but it might be an interesting project).
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I have a 2005 Saab 9-2x Aero (WRX) 141,000 miles, completely stock, with the 4EAT automatic. Under full throttle, at about 70 mph, it will shift from 3rd to neutral (and redline) rather than shift to 4th. I must let off the throttle and give it a few seconds to find 4th gear when this happens. Under normal acceleration, it has no problem going from 3rd to 4th gear. I have just replaced the transmission fluid and filter (using genuine Subaru stuff) and still the problem persists. I have never driven anything with an automatic transmission before and really don't know where to start with this, it is also difficult for me to find anything on the web about this exact problem, so any help would be appreciated. Thank you! -
I've got a 4.11 FD ratio transmission to replace the one that's failing in my 2002 legacy. This means I need a 4.11 rear differential as mine is 3.90. I found a great deal on one that is limited slip from a JDM WRX with low miles, only thing is the axles are slightly thicker at the splines on the WRX. How hard is it to take the differential apart and use the axle-holder-spline-bearings (sorry, don't know the part name) from my old differential so my axles will fit? Is this possible?
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I want to upgrade the brakes on my brumby to wrx brake for two reasons, to get the much better performing brakes, and to change to a more common stud pattern. I know in Australia we used to have the crossbred kit, but these aren't made anymore so i'm just wondering if globally there are any other kits or if someone has a simple solution. Thanks.
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if anybody has any tips on where I could find a cheap wrx, even for repair, I would appreciate it -
I'd like to say hello to everybody on this message board! We are from a small town dealership in Southern New Hampshire and we are excited to get to know everybody from the forum! I'd like to offer everybody here in this forum a special coupon to our online parts catalog! If you're interested in that feel free to shoot us a message and we'd love to help you out! Thank you everybody for taking the time to read this! We look forward to talking to all of you in the message boards! -Austin -
something happened about 1/2 mile from home this morning, immediately after a 'gentle' u-turn. Now there's a 'clattering' noise - seems kinda rhythmic as I went home at slow speed in 2nd gear.and related to road speed, not rpm No overheat, I don't 'think' there's loss of power.... too dark to look at anything yet. Hoping for axle problem, fearing transmission or, ....engine. The rhythmic part gets me - concerned it's valve train related.
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Just a short DIY on installing Kartboy's front and rear endlinks.
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Hey guys need some guidance here. I own a 99 subaru forester s and the windshield wipers don't work properly. The wipers Park to far both ways so they slam into the edge of the window on both the bottom and side. They do not do this everytime they go up and down but often. And each time they go in their rotation they stop at different points on the windshield. This also only happens when the windshield is wet. If dry the wipers stop normally maybe even a bit not far enough. The more wet the windshield is the more the wipers slap against the edges of the window. Ive already take off the panel to inspect the wiper linkage and cannot find any issues with it. The arms have no issues either and the arms lock into place when bolted on as well. What else could be the issue? Anyone else had similar issues? I'd be very appreciative if someone could share some expertise on this topic and move me in the proper direction to fixing the issue. Thanks -
I own a 99 subaru forester s and am in need of a solution to my worn out seats. I have the beige leather heated seats in the car and the front seats have cracking and tears in them. What can I do? I've seen leather repair kits but for the matching dye and everything it's 70+ dollars and I'm skeptical about the results. Is their any way I could get replacement oem seats for the car or is there any good aftermarket seats out there that would fit and match nicely? I'm not looking for race bucket seats just some comfortable daily driving seats. Any suggestions are appreciated
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About two weeks ago my WRX started stalling the engine when I would push in the clutch and shift to neutral as I came to a stop. It seems like as the engine comes up to temperature, it looses its ability to keep the engine at idle. Eventually I have to hold the throttle cracked open at idle to keep it running. If I coast, in gear, up to a stop and disengage the clutch just as engine RPM reaches hot-idle, I can keep it running, no problem. But if I come to a stop quickly and push in the clutch, the engine will immediately stall. There is NO high idle, only a gradual reduction of idle speed as the engine warms up. I haven't done much fiddling lately, besides replacing the MAF and front O2 sensors. I'm also not getting ANY OBD fault codes. Doing some research pointed to the IACV being gummed up. So I cleaned it, per the instructions on NASIOC. My drive to work involves about two miles of surface streets until I get to the freeway onramp, then about 8 miles of highway. There are three stop signs between my house and the freeway and about as many between the freeway offramp and my work. The car started pretty normal the next morning, but each time I stopped at a stop sign the idle would get lower and lower until the engine stalled as I pulled up to the stoplight at the onramp. Same story after driving on the highway, when I pulled up to a stop after exiting, the engine stalled. Some further reading of the IACV-cleaning post on NASIOC revealed that disassembly of the IACV could yield better cleaning results, but often the cleaned valve would fail within the next few months or years. I decided to just bite the bullet and replace the IACV with a new one. Same story. The engine started fine, but with each stop sign between my house and the freeway onramp, the engine would idle lower and lower until it stalled at the onramp. After the IACV, most folks suggest checking for vacuum leaks. I haven't done this yet, but I'm very doubtful that there are any. I haven't taken anything apart recently, save the new sensors, and the car was running perfectly normally up until two weeks ago. I plan to do some data logging tomorrow on my way to and from work, and will post the results here. So, anyone have any ideas? Fuel pump? Fuel pump relay? Bueller? Bueller? Bueller? -
Ok - I'm not sure where to put this, but here is my latest effort : This is based on the WRX Imprezza 2014 ? version due to come out soon ... For those who want a more 'sportier' ute version ... Cheers, Bantum ...
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