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Showing results for tags 'a/c'.
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85 BRAT, where is AC thermostat? I want to locate every component. Pic
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Hi all, '98 OBW, 2.5L high compression build, 5MT After moving to Las Vegas, Nevada about two years ago, I've finally begun wanting to use my air conditioning system. Before moving down here, I had a mechanic pull vacuum on the system and charge it. I think he put in less than 2 lbs? It was a very minimal amount. Here are the symptoms that I'm experiencing. Blows cold while driving, and cool while idling. While driving, when the A/C compressor kicks on, there is a VERY noticeable decrease in performance... almost like I've instantaneously been loaded with a 700 lb 4x8 U-Haul trailer...It'll buck/shake the car slightly. I know I've read multiple times on the forum that the A/C can rob power, but this seems exceptional. The motor has good compression (in the 200s) and has lots of power when not using A/C. I am in the habit of turning the A/C off when accelerating from stops. With this amount of strain placed on the motor though, why doesn't it just stall out when idling? The motor doesn't stumble or strain when cycling the A/C on/off while idling. What's the deal? I've checked the gap on the clutch, and it seems to be within specifications. It also appears that this clutch isn't replaceable? I've looked at the different write-ups on this forum, and the videos available, but NONE of them show the type of compressor that mine has... The Triangle with the 3 circular pieces and the single bolt in the center... I've attached the pressure gauge from one of those auto-store recharge kits, and supposedly the system is topped-off. Does this have anything to do with my neutral switch? I've checked my Short Term/Long term fuel trims while idling and I think I don't have a vacuum leak, as they're in the negatives. I'm just worried that I'm going to jump timing because of the instantaneous loading that is presenting, or the A/C is going to catabolize itself while driving and having to replace EVERY part of the system. Thanks for your time, Greg -
Hello all! Got a 1997 Legacy L 2.2L. Got it on a good deal for about $200 and a few cases of beer. It has 179,500ish miles on it. Air blows at feet and through the defrost vents. Pushing buttons to change air flow don't do anything. I don't think it's the button cluster,(idk what it's called) I think it's the actuator. I've pulled the cluster and cleaned it, lights came back on for a bit but didn't stay on. Managed to test the brown connector connecting to the actuator (almost impossible) with a volt meter and it seemed pushing the buttons to change the directions of air flow did cause different parts to go hot. So with that out of the way. Do I have to tear apart the whole dash to replace the actuator? And going to a junkyard to get the parts, what range of models/ years are compatible? -
The buttons directing air flow to the windshield, front and lower vents did not function. I pulled the unit several times to clean connections, and try to clean the inside of the unit. Immediately after cleaning and reinstalling the unit the buttons work fine. Soon thereafter the buttons stopped working again. During the last reinstall I noted that if I pulled up on the connector for the buttons (top center wire connector) the unit functioned fine. Evidently the wires pulling down on the connectors impacts button contact inside the unit. My solution- wood shims! The two shims are cut so they provide support to the connector, and rest on top of the frame for the cable controlling air temp. See pics below. The unit now almost operates flawlessly, the exception being the recirculate button does not light up.
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A little background: My RX has no A/C. The passenger's side window wiring is damaged and sometimes doesn't like to roll back up, so I don't use it. In the heat we're starting to get around Seattle this means driving with the HVAC fan on high with the driver's side window open to stay cool. Last week I noticed that after parking for a quick errand, when I got back in and restarted the car, the blower fan simply refused to turn on. Fan speed doesn't matter, HVAC mode doesn't matter, HVAC temperature doesn't matter. It seems that if I leave the car sitting the fan will eventually come back to life, but there is nothing you can do in the meantime (once it took a full day to come back, just yesterday it only took an hour). I did some research, found this thread, but was wondering if anyone has experienced this issue in the past and could save me some troubleshooting time. -
Howdy all, recently my ventilation system started only blowing when the knob is turned to 4, so it's full blast or nothing these days. Anyone else seen this before? Browsing the forums I've seen some people run into this with the Legacy and they mention a wire or switch below/behind the dash, but I can't find anything similar on my GL
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My 2007 Impreza 2.5i wagon's A/C is acting weird... The A/C works fine when the selector is set to defrost (both settings) but not when the A/C button is pushed and the selector is on any other setting (dash, dual or feet). The A/C light comes on & I can hear a switch or relay click under the dash but the idle stays low (doesn't change) and the air does not cool. If I put the selector to defrost (with or without the a/c button in the "On" position) the idle rises to about 1000rpm and the air starts to cool. I had this problem last year and a local garage replaced the compressor (with a used part) saying it was cratered (~$900 total) ... Before I go back to them, is there any other switch, relay or whatever that might be causing the problem? -
1006 Legacy 2.2 Wagon I tried the A/C for the first time today and noticed that the pump does not engage. I do not hear a click or anything but if I try to spin it, it spins freely. Don't know if ti's a bad solenoid or so low on freon it has cut out. Checked the 10 AMP fuse and it's good but don't know how to check those big black relay fuses so i'm stuck Where do I go from here? thanks, -
is there a brand or part number for an asst. of HNBR or a/c 'appropriate', DECENT QUALITY o-rings available from amazon or NAPA or someplace DIYers can easily shop, that will work on our soobs? Not sure I need 400 o-rings, but 8 may not have enough variety of sizes. I seem to have bought an assortment of foreign-made crap o-rings that don't last more than a coupla seasons. thanx
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Anyone have any idea why my HVAC's blower motor will only operate on fan speed 3? I thought that if the blower motor's resistor pack failed, it would only work on fan speed 4...
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When I inherited a 2003 Outback a few years ago, the A/C system had a leak and wasn't working. (I don't know how long it hadn't been working before that. Maybe it had been years.) Last month, with the summer heat, I finally got around to replacing the high pressure line, the receiver-dryer, the O-rings, and the valves. Then I pumped out the system and refilled it with coolant. That was more than two weeks ago. The A/C is still working great and blowing cold, but... there's a noticeable strain on the engine when the A/C is on, my gas mileage has plunged dramatically, and there's often a noticeable smell of gasoline outside the car after it's been running and even if it's been sitting for awhile. Any thoughts? Is this normal for a Subaru in hot weather? I'm wondering if I need to adjust the timing or fuel mixture for the engine now that it has the additional strain of turning the compressor. I'm also wondering if maybe the compressor is faulty in some way and isn't turning as smoothly as it should. Is there a way to test the compressor and/or check the compressor oil level? Any input welcome! -
I have an 2001 OBW H6. I replaced the expansion valve and vacuum pump out my high and low side before recharging. Most of the time the A/C works fine, but five times or so the compressor stops mid drive, usually with in minutes of starting a commute. I can get the A/C to work again by just stopping/starting the car. Any ideas? Of course one time this occurred when my wife was driving it. I love this car, it only has 107K. It's the youngest suby I ever had... thanks Mike -
I have a 91 Loyale with a problem the has me scratching my head. Since I inherited this great car its had this weird (at least to me) problems. In the summer thetemp runs at the high end of the normal range, if I turn on the A/C it goes into the red. And in the winter time the temp barely gets into the normal range and no warmer. I did have a problem with the A/C cutting out but solved that problem with a fix I found on this forum. but the issue with the heat/no heat I don't believe had any bearing on the A/C issue So 1. Runs hot in summer, with A/C on it overheats 2. I tested the electric fan and it runs, whether our not it come on when I'm driving I don't know, though someone told me if the a/c is on the fan should run. 3. Barely gets warm in the winter. 4. Shop Put in an aftermarket thermostat years ago with marginal change. Any suggestions? -
Hello all, I have an '05 Outback with 75k miles. Runs great. LOTS OF WATER accumulating in the front passenger footwell. This also happened last summer. Not related to rain. I'm guessing this is condensation from the a/c that isn't properly draining to the outside of the car...ANY THOUGHTS? Is there a blocked drainage hose or something similar behind the glovebox? I'm hoping I can fix this before MILDEW sets in and stinks up the whole car. Thanks in advance, Jeff in Boston -
I am replacing compressor on my 95 Impreza. Where is the expansion valve, or is there one? Is there an orifice tube? Thanks. -
Hi, Seeking help with the heater / climate control system in my '98 Legacy. The dial to adjust the temperature just turns indefinitely and the temperature doesn't move. Obvious fix is to source and purchase a replacement unit but I thought I'd ask here in case there is an easy fix. Thanks -
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B3h8j6sXR813blBiY05haDVJcWc/view?usp=sharing I have a 98 EJ22 in my 92 Loyale Wagon. I put in a D/R tranny, gave it a 2-4" lift and just last week put on the stronger springs that JesZek suggested along with all new struts and all new 1/2 shafts. She's running pretty awesome! But first! I need my AC for the upcoming hot summer! I scavenged all the R-12 parts out of a 93 Legacy (compressor, compressor bracket, tensioner pulley, lines, receiver/dryer/pressure switch) and paid Mac's Radiator here in Portland a large chunk of change to mate all the fittings together and integrate it into my Loyale (so it hooks up to the Loyale condenser and evaporator. They also ran through the system, changed out O rings, flushed and pressure tested it. They said it's all clean, flushed, the compressor seems to work fine, the system holds pressure and they also replaced the drier. Unfortunately they wouldn't put R-12 in it until I re-installed the Sub Fan and got it wired correctly. So I've spent the day searching for all the different wiring diagrams for each donor car and locating most of the necessary wires from the EJ ECU. I already have 2 fan relays that I set up. Plus 2 slim fans, pulling from the inside of the radiator. The main fan is switched on with Pin 74, a Red/Blue wire that goes to ground when the engine gets to about 90 degrees C. I was told the sub fan is switched on with Pin 73 after an even higher temp is reached. Pin 73 is a Green/White wire that I tried to use for my 2nd fan. It never seemed to work no matter how hot I got the engine so I ended up wiring a toggle switch next to the steering column for its relay. My understanding now is that it (Pin 73) is grounded when the A/C is turned on. My goal is to get the A/C wired up properly, so that the ECU does what it needs to do: Kick up the IAC for 1/2 a second and then switch on the A/C compressor relay and fire up the Sub Fan simultaneously. I would like to run the compressor trigger line on the A/C relay through the pressure switch on my drier so that it has that as a backup safeguard as well. I will also run the toggle switch to the A/C relay ground so I can keep manual control of the 2nd fan as needed. Here are my questions: Where on my 92 Loyale can I find the wire that is activated when I press "Defrost" or "A/C" on my dash? Is it grounded or hot when I turn on the A/C? If it's hot like I imagine, then I want to run this +12v wire to the hot on my A/C relay, and to the compressor trigger wire via the Pressure switch and A/C relay contact? I am assuming that Pin 31, Blue and Orange will provide the ground to fire the A/C relay and turn on the compressor. I'm also assuming that Pin 60 receives a +12v signal from my A/C "on" hot wire when I hit the A/C buttons and this gives the ECU the heads up that I'm calling for A/C so it can do it's job. Right? So, yeah, my biggest questions are: Where can I find the A/C wire on my Loyale? and is +12v the correct voltage to input into Pin 60 on my ECU when I call for cold air? Hopefully my link above shows the picture I drew of what I intend to do. Can anybody confirm or deny my ideas?? -
I'm getting my car ready for a long cross-country drive (mostly cosmetic things and getting it to my standards) The biggest thing I have to do to it is repair the air conditioner system. Here's the deal: I got into an accident and destroyed my condenser coil that sits in front of the radiator and all of my R-12 coolant blew out. What I want to do is get a new condenser and convert the system over to R-134a instead of pulling R-12 out of old window air conditioners at the junk yard. There is a lack of parts that I need. My uncle tells me I'll need a dryer to clean all the moisture out of the open lines. And I also need a condenser coil. The online retailer that I've been going to for parts to my car does not carry condenser coils. There are 2 at my local auto parts junkyard, what is the consensus to using junkyard aircon parts? Would it even be worth it? Are there any condenser coils from other cars that would fit in my car with little to no modification? Like how certain Nissan Maxima alternators fit? Looking online the very few retailers that do carry those coils are asking way over $100 for them. How difficult is switching an old system over to 134a? Is it reliable? I don't expect it to reach negative 40 in the car on a 120 degree day. I'd like to know how much refrigerant oil to put into my OEM compressor, and are there any brands that I should stick to? I read in another topic that NAPA sells universal 134a conversion kits so i'm probably going to do that. Anyway thanks for reading and thank you for helping me out!
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The actuator for the vent system on my 1997 Brighton Legacy wagon has died and I am desperately looking for a replacement. My local Subaru dealer as well as my local mechanic have not been able to help so far. Does anyone have any suggestions? The mechanic is afraid if I keep driving on it, the door to the vent will fly off and damage something else. -
It sounds like the fan for the vent and air conditioner is working at all four levels and the heater is definitely working. The problem is that I cannot feel any air coming through any of the central vents at any setting level. Is something disconnected? -
I've been reading around and I think I've figured out my a/c issue but due to my rather novice knowledge I'd be interesting in hearing some other opinons. Oh, my car is a 2001 Subaru Legacy L with 220,000km on it. Air conditioning worked last summer, there was a warm spell early in the summer and the a/c seems to work decently enough but I only used it for five or ten minutes. Now that summer has set in I went to turn it on a couple weeks ago and nothing happened. It still blew air but nothing cold, compressor didn't turn on and clutch (?) didn't do anything. I turned to the Internet, my Hayes manual and USMB. First thing I found to do was clip the two green plugs togethor under the steering wheel. Both fans on the rad turned on and off as they should and the relay seemed to work for the a/c. Went back to do more research and came back out. Took the caps off the pressure lines for the a/c and stuck a screwdriver onto the pins. Both gave a hiss, so not completely empty. I only did each for half a second, didn't want any getting out that didn't need to. After some more reading the third thing I tried was jumping the pressure switch located near the back of the passenger side of the engine compartment. Unplugged the cord, jumped the contacts and pressed the a/c button. The compressor came on and clutch caught. I tried turning off and on the a/c by the button a few times and the compressor and clutch went off and on. I let it run for a few minutes (with the a/c on) but it just blew warmish air. From my reading if jumping that works then it could be two things, either the switch or low freon. Since jumping the pressure switch worked but it only blew warmish air even though there was still some pressure in the system I'm guessing low freon is my problem. Would anyone with more experience care to comment? Hopefully I'm on the right track. Thanks! -
I have a 1988 DL, excellent shape, under 67k miles (really). This car sat for nearly 10 years mostly inside, some outside, and under a carport. It was just started and driven a couple of times a month. Lots of TLC has revived this little gem into my daily driver. Just recently, the R-134 converted A/C compressor and blower cuts out and just stops working while driving. None of the selector buttons or fan speed switchs work. Ocassionally, it will turn itself back on only to stop again the next day. I checked all fuses both under the drivers side dash and the two relays and fuse behind the passenger side strut tower under the hood. All check ok per the Haynes manual I have. I've not pulled the blower resistor block yet because when it does come back on, all fan speeds function. I have disassembled the dash and glove box area and removed the stereo looking for an additional relay that is mentioned in my Haynes manual, but can not locate it. Other than this invisible relay, I'm running out of ideas. Anyone had similiar problems? Could it be the selector button switches? I hear the vacuum system moving duct levers when the buttons are pressed. Is this something simple that I am overlooking or over analyzing? Any and all suggestions will be greatly appreciated. Thanks. -
That be frost there mateys!
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I am slowly going about converting my '89 RX from R12 to R134a because the pulley bearing on my original compressor failed. I removed the evaporator today and took it apart to get the expansion valve out. The first thing I noticed was some weird rubber/tar gunk around one connection of the expansion valve and around where a piece of it touches a coolant line. What is this stuff? Is it necessary? I hope it wasn't put on to contain a leak. It wasn't tight on the parts so I don't think it was to fix a leak. The pictures below show what it looked like. I took the pictures after I peeled it off so it is just laying there as a representation in the pics. The new expansion valve I bought from RockAuto has different thread sizes than the original so it won't fit. It also won't fit over the pipes to seat against the O-ring. I will have to return it. It also has a third connector coming out of the top. I found this thread that says this was a feature of Hitachi A/C systems, but mine is Panasonic. I was going to get together with a local Subaru group on Saturday to work on this but I don't think I can get a new expansion valve by then. My thought is to use new O-rings and reuse the original expansion valve. It seems people frequently do this when switching to R134a from R12 with no adverse effects and I never noticed anything to think my original had problems. Thoughts on the weird gunk and reusing the expansion valve?
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Calling A/C techs... I had a theory about the problem, but I'd like to confer before proceeding. A/C system was working last 2 years, but now it only cycles for ~10 seconds, then shuts off until I cycle the A/C (or defrost) off/on. Does this every time, no matter how long I wait between A/C cycles. Belts are tight, no clutch slippage (that I can observe) and the engine DOES idle up when running (pulser is gapped to spec) Hooked up the R-12 gauge and there were the readings: Engine at EOT, system off: Low side: ~50 psi HIgh side: 55 psi System cycling: Low: drops to ~0 psi quickly High: raises to ~75-85 and holds After cycle: Low: raises to ~55-60 psi High: drops to ~60 psi I added less than 5oz of R12, but same result, only the high side raises slightly, but the low raises when the system is not cycling. Before I add (or maybe waste if the receiver/drier needs replaced) any more, I just wanted to confirm that it just might be low on R12 and the trinary switch is deactiviating due to low pressure.
