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Showing results for tags 'bearing'.
Found 24 results
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I just wanted to prove I would not be defeated by a rust frozen longbolt. I used a cutoff wheel to slice the bolt between the knuckle and the control arms, and pressed out the bushings with the stub intact, an pressed in new bushings using a bearing press. I bought the whole knuckle/bearing/hub/backerplate from RA . This sat in a corner for months, just annoying me. I tackled it today freehand using a benchtop drillpress and 1/8 and 3/8 bits. I won't do it again. This part of this generation of Subarus stinks.
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I need to replace the front axles on my 85 BRAT. Do I need to remove the wheel bearing housings from the car? -
A video where I ask the question: Is this ok? Slop at rear axle, drum removed The bearing can slide in and out with very little pressure.
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hey old gen friends, recently came back to my wagon parked on the street here in New York City and found my driver side corner light smashed, so looking for a replacement. Also been hearing some grinding in the front end on the passenger side. I need to track down a complete front passenger side wheel assembly (bearing, hub, spindle). If anyone has these parts for sale, please let me know, I need the corner light to pass inspection which is coming up soon and from the sound of things, also need to replace the front passenger side wheel assembly ASAP as well. thanks, Glen
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Since we don't have ready access to The End Wrench or individual Subaru technical service bulletins, I was wondering if anyone had the TIB that provides information on the front wheel bearing installation. I have a feeling that my local mom & pop garage that I take the hubs/bearings/spindles to is buggering up the installation, causing my front bearings to only last a few thousand miles before making noise. @GeneralDisorder Is this something you have access to? I'm not opposed to buying the correct tool to do this at home, if someone has recommendations. -
Throwing this out to the community for help. I'm looking to buy/borrow/copy the driver used to release the rear wheel bearings from an EA-series trailing arm. I've got two sets of wheel bearings that need changing and I'd REALLY prefer to not use a punch to break these guys free. Any leads you can provide will help.
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1984 4WD GL, I need to replace the axle shafts, front. 200,000 miles, seems like a good idea to replace the front wheel bearings and seals while I am at it. What else should I do on this job?
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http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/gallery/image/3772-pilot-bearing-included-in-clutch-kit/ This pilot bearing was included in my clutch kit for my 1984 GL 4wd . . I did not take a part off the car like this... that I know of! The outside diameter is 16mm. Does the 1984 4wd GL use this bearing? I do not want to complete the engine installation, and then find that this should have been included in the assembly. Do I need it? More importantly, does my car need it?
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Hey folks. Got a new sound among all the old ones (lifter tick, low idle, etc.). I think a pulley bearing is going out, but I've never experienced it before. Would you have a listen to the YouTube post and let me know what you think? Is there a way to determine which pulley it is without taking the belts off? Thanks!
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I think my center support bearing is wearing out (squeels, squeeks, etc). I've read how to replace them, but I have not been able to find the center support bearing. Any Ideas, suggestions, criticisms,etc would be much appreciated. Thank you very much! -
I think my center support bearing is wearing out (squeels, squeeks, etc). I've read how to replace them, but I have not been able to find the center support bearing. Any Ideas, suggestions, criticisms,etc would be much appreciated. Thank you very much!
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Background: Struts are all newish, brakes recently serviced, new inner/outer tie rods, new ball joints, new FCAR bushings, wheels rebalanced, recent alignment. Symptoms: Faint clunking noise at low speeds while accelerating. Shaking at 60 mph, felt like unbalanced wheel, except we just had them rebalanced. Back story: I've been chasing an issue with the passenger's front wheel on our 1999 Forester for a few months now. The car is closing in on 200k miles and I had just finished replacing the ball joints and tie rod ends on the car when I noticed the passenger's side front control arm rear bushing was pretty badly torn. I replaced that bushing, got an alignment, then my wife tells me that the car is shaking on the highway. OK, wheels must be out of balance, so we get them rebalanced. No change. I do the wheel shake test and I felt some play, so let's take a look at the wheel bearing. Wheel and brakes removed, I can feel some clunking as I turn the hub. The driver's side feels smooth when rotated, but there is obviously something wrong with the passenger's side. I get the passenger's side spindle assembly on the bench expecting to find some grumbling and play, but it feels pretty smooth in rotation, with no axial or radial play. So I grab the halfshaft and rotate it. The clunking is still present, but it doesn't feel like it's coming from the CV or DOJ. I supposed it could be either of those parts, but I get the feeling that the passenger's side differential carrier bearing is going south. Question: I've read a lot about Subaru transmissions over the years and that if not reassembled properly with the correct backlash and bearing preload, they will fail again in pretty short order. As I see it, we've got a few options on how to proceed: 1) Rebuild the original transmission - Has to go to a shop and could get expensive with labor and, "while we're in there" incidentals, rebuild could re-fail 2) Replace original transmission with a good used one - I can do this, no problem, but I worry about getting a bad used transmission 3) Sell the car and find the wife a new vehicle - Since our Forester is a the bottom of it's depreciation curve right now, does it really make sense to sink $600-3,000 into a vehicle that's only worth $4,000 tops? Looking for opinions, experiences, etc. If you've got a nice, used transmission, I'm all ears too!
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When you suspect you have a bad wheel bearing: droning noise, scraping sound occurring randomly or on turns, before you jump to any conclusion: CHECK the AXLE staking nut. If it comes loose, the bearing will behave as if failing. The staking nut on my 2008 is torqued to 160 ftlbs. It had come loose after a year, for some reason. If I had tried that early, I might have been able to just tighten it, saving the seals and myself a whole lot of learning. Instead, after seeing the wheel wobble, I "knew" it was a bad bearing. Having been thru a couple legitimate bad/burnt bearings before, I decided I should buy the press and bearing pusher tool. The 12 ton press was more than sufficient. The 2 Youtube videos on Forester/impreza gloss over a critical point, that when you are pressing out the old inner race, you need to use the undersized tool, (65mm I believe), and although it does not fit correctly, it works. DO NOT USE THE 72MM TOOL. My excuse is that it was late Saturday night and I was tired, but the way it fit so well let me press on the casting 'way too hard, expecting the 'pop', and feeling stupid. I was just pressing on the knuckle casting. I went inside and sat down. It was at this point I realized the possibility that the stake nut was just loose, and the whole thing was probably a mistake, but now I had it in pieces. I heated the knuckle in the oven the next morning, when my eyes worked, and using the 65mm tool, the press slid out easily. It DOES require a press. I seriously doubt you could tap it out with a chisel. I used the skf hub kit, which DOES NOT COME WITH SEALS, and got new seals, and it all went back together nicely. You need a "bearing separator" if you want to reuse your old hub. I piece of 1-5/8 id exhaust tube slotted up the side works well for setting the inner race on the hub. Don't forget the outer seal first. I torqued the stake nut, went for a drive, then torqued it again and staked it. I had to take the wheel off once more to bend the scraping backing plate, after the brakes warmed up. Apparently the disc expands a few mm when hot. The seals were probably damaged by the wobble, and maybe the bearing also, so ....whatever. Oh yeah, 2008 Forester NA 4EAT -
Hi guys! My subie needs a clutch replacement and I will do it myself. .... so I NEED YOUR ADVICE ! What clutch do you recommend? http://amzn.to/2iXQFqb http://amzn.to/2iBU0yK http://amzn.to/2iBPKiO Thanks for the help!! I will post pictures of how I did the clutch replacement. Hope it will help you later! My Leggy is a 1996 GL 2.0 SOHC Wagon Cheers, Fran -
2008 Outback Wagon, just shy of 92K. Had cylinder head gasket issue at 60k (still pissed about that). I've been getting a rattle during startup and when accelerating. Had the oil & filter changed at the Subaru dealership. 2 - 2.5 quarts low (yeah, I should check more often). Rattle diagnosed as rod bearing. Mechanic/manager said "It's not a big deal. Just feather the gas." Really? That sounds like terrible advice. I mean, yeah, I'll take it easy on the engine, I'm not a performance-type driver anyway. How long can I get by like this? Am I driving on borrowed time? Car performs well, it just has the rattle. A buddy of mine who knows his way around an engine, though not Subies, said, "If the dealer isn't trying to bend you over for a major repair, maybe it's OK." So, here I am, getting advice from you. -
Hi all, I'm still in the assembly stage of rebuilding my engine (2.5L DOHC), but I've come across a weird issue. The new timing belt kit that came with my reman'd block, I just broke into it the other day to start putting the new sprockets on. The first sprocket one I opened, I bolted it on loosely just to see how it looked and feel the bearing, and to my surprise it wiggles. I'm not joking, this brand new never used sprocket, the bearing wiggles like a worn out bearing, though it's still tight when you spin it like a fresh bearing should be. I don't know about you but I'm getting a red flag about this, does anyone have any ideas on whether or not to use it? Thanks in advance, David -
Only after driving 20-30 minutes on the highway out of nowhere the front of the car will start shaking significantly. Still happening in neutral while coasting at speed and during shake pushing the gas pedal seems to cause little to no speeding up. Don't think it is in steering wheel and is more in engine I think. Enough shaking to make me pull over and shut down. And then when I start back up and get up to speed it seems to be ok again. Talked with local dealer and he thinks it could be bad wheel bearings given it needs to warm up before being an issue. Any thoughts anyone? 2009 Subaru Legacy, non turbo, 101k miles, already replaced CV coupling and some other maintenance. Thanks Josh -
I get a pretty noticeable whirring noise from the rear of my car, trying to figure out if it's wheel bearings, crap tires, or just 20 year old subaru noises. What should I be looking for? Gas mileage is bad, but that's probably because I have to redline to stay with other cars -
Alright, so this is the first time ive posted on here before, ive been on here for 2 years now but never had a reason to post, well i recently bought a blue 1990 loyale that had been sitting for 10+ years, i need help deciding whether to pull the plug on this vehicle for parts for my other wagon or rescue it. Pros: not a single spot of rust interior is beautiful body is straight as an arrow A/C somehow still works power windows and locks work 130,xxx drove 180 miles from where i bought it. 4wd Cons: Automatic transmission oil seal leaks smokes ALOT when it runs rear passenger wheel bearing is bad electric fan does not work head gaskets look pretty soaked in oil so it probably needs new headgaskets my question is what is all the smoking out the exhaust? how do i fix it? is it head gaskets? and how much life can i expect out of an automatic EA82? is it even worth fixing, because my other wagon is ready for a new rear bumper and powersteering and seats and more stuff. keep in mind that i live in south Texas where these EA82 cars are rare and have yet to see another in the last 3 years of driving my GL sadly... i am the cars only mechanic, and finding parts down here is a joke. everyone refuses to work on it, even the dealership. any help is greatly appreciated thanks!! -Omar
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Hello All, I'm experiencing some noise from my manual transmission (i think) during the recent cold snap in northern Vermont. The car is a 09' with 100,000 miles on it.The noise only happens when I'm on the throttle and loading the engine, stops completely as soon as I lift off the gas. This only happens when it is <5°F, this morning it was -12°F and it was very loud. I would describe the noise as a knocking or clacking. There are also two levels to the sound. Under light throttle I have one noise, and under hard throttle I have a different, louder, worse sounding noise. I get the noise even after letting the engine warm up completely, which leads me to believe the noise is in the gear box, as this does not warm up while idling. Also, the noise does go away after 10-15 minutes of driving. It seems to happen in all gears and does not happen when I rev the engine in neutral. From the driver seat, the noise seems to come from directly below the center console, maybe a bit in front of the shifter. I have replaced the transmission fluid, maybe 15,000 miles ago with Subaru extra-s fluid. Has any one else experienced these symptoms? -
Hi Guys I am pleased to inform you that i finally bought my first very own 1998 2.0 GL non turbo Subaru Impreza 5 Door station wagon. It might not mean much to many of you, but for me it is, especially when you are limited with cash and you manage to buy your first Subaru cash. so here is the thing, and i need some advise from the Subby experts. I pick up a bearing sound like noise coming from the tranny, as soon as my clutch is engaged its gone. when i drive in 1st, 2nd 3rd its loud and gets softer in 4th and 5th gear. as soon as i de-accelarate the noise is gone, when i accelarate the noise is back. my concern................its gradually getting louder. Today......... i discovered that the noise is substantially softer when i engage the car in 4WD LO and when the 4WD lever is between HI and LO (neutral) the noise is gone. a Mech told me {Bro you gorra replace you Tranny, she is busted} im hoping he is wrong,,,,,,any beneficial advise you can enrich me with. by the way....i still love this car,,,im amazed with the way this car corners although i dont have the best of tyres. cioa.- 10 replies
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Well my rear wheel bearing has spoob the bed on me today and I was wondering if I could get some tips on how to go about removing it, installing it, tools needed and what brand of bearing is the best to get. Thanks! -Lukas -
Hello all, Last summer, after driving on the highway, I heard a squealing sound coming from the passenger front wheel. The next day when driving around 40 mph the wheel locked. I was able to steer it onto the side of the road. The caliper was seized up and I was able to pry it loose. I drove it a few feet and realized I would need a tow. The tow truck was a flat-bed wrecker and pulled the car up onto the bed. While the car was being pulled the locked wheel popped loudly one time and began spinning freely. I was able to roll it backwards into my driveway. This summer I finally got around to working on the vehicle. I purchased new Beck/Arnley loaded calipers, rotors, and hydrolic hoses. I drained the old fluid with a Mytivac and installed new fluid. I tested the ebrake and it does not feel as tight as it was before. I also did a Weber 32/36 conversion which is almost finished. I just have to figure out how to adjust the idle and check my pcv lines for proper routing. The car started up and when I attempted to drive it felt like the wheels were locking up very similalry to when the vehicle felt after it initially ran when I tried to drive it before I called the tow-truck. I had the bearing relaced a couple of thousand miles ago from a very reputable shop, and I am at a loss on what to start working on next. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. -
I've got a 2001 Outback 2.5L with 186,000 miles. About a year ago I replaced the front passenger side brake caliper after it froze up. A couple weeks ago the same caliper froze up while I was on the freeway. I drove a few miles to an exit with the steering wheel vibrating hard and towed it home. After replacing the caliper again I get a heavy grinding that is consistent with the rotation of the wheel. It sound like grinding brakes but real loud. Here are the steps I have taken before getting stuck: -checked brake lines, all look good -checked brake fluid, bled out all air, it looks clean and fine -installed new caliper -new brake pads on front brakes (old pads on passenger side had worn at a slight angle not parallel to back of pad) -had the rotor turned at local auto parts store I'm definately no mechanic but try DIY as much as possible. I was thinking it could be a bearing or bad axle but not sure. Any help on troubleshooting and how to fix would really be appreciated. I cant really afford to pay a mechanic
