Search the Community
Showing results for tags 'bleed'.
Found 3 results
-
Hey everyone. I posted a while ago about my car suddenly losing clutch control and not being able to shift gears. Someone suggested I needed to bleed my clutch lines. I just got back from doing this with my father in law, we removed the slave valve, compressed it with a clamp and successfully managed to bleed/milk the line and get new clutch fluid (DOT3) into the lines etc. However, I still have no ability to put the car in gear. The clutch will depress, but the gear stick simply will not move and 'slot' into gear. I'm not a mechanic by any means and have no idea what to do. The slave cylinder doesn't appear to be broken (we took out the pin and its still intact), there a little 'flap' that the slave cylinder pushes, it seems as though it just needs to be 'pushed' more for the gears to engage, but I'm not sure how to fix that. Any help would be most appreciated! Attached is a photo of the slave, pushing against the flappy thing (techy term) , does it look alright?
-
Hey guys I am trying to figure this out. My folks' car is a 1992 Subaru Loyale Automatic 4wd. So they were telling me the brakes were getting more and more spongy, when I came to visit them and checked out the car the pedal would pretty much go all the way to the floor. Now I had done the front brake pads about six months before this all occured, and the calipers lookes fine when I changed the pads, the pistons went back in without any problems. The back brake shoes looked fine so I didnt bother changing them and I didnt see any wet spots around the rear cylinders. Back now to six months later and the pedal sinking to the floor. I checked the brake lines and they looked fine. I was now convinced its the master cylinder. I did some tests I saw here on the forum. I went ahead and bled the brakes first to make sure there was no air, the brakes were still spongy maybe a tad better but still going to the floor. Ok so I went to Autozone and got a remanfuactured master cylinder, about 40 dollars which included the 8 dollar core charge. Not having a tube wrench I ended up stripping one of my brake line bolts but I managed with a vice grip to get it off. Needless to say I went to Sears to get one for 10mm but ended up with a set of 5 for 35 bucks since they didnt sell individual ones, they are definitely the right tool for the job. Okay so putting the new one on I managed to strip the threads on the rebuilt master cylinder, so I ran and bought another remanufactured one and managed to get it in, but it was a b!@tch. I did bench bleed it before. Okay so went through and thoroughly bled all the brakes, no improvement. Went back bled the brakes again the next day brakes were still like crap with pedal sinking all the way down. I was at my wits end. I decided to adjust my parking brake to have some sort of good emergency brake if I needed to take it in. As I was adjusting the parking brake and following the procedure which has you pulling on brake and testing the pedal, my brakes started to firm up. I did this repeatedly and lo and behold the brakes went back to almost normal. I was reading somewhere about hill hugger assist feature on some subarus and that can be a problem with spongy brakes but I looked on youtube and it seems to be a feature only of cars with a manual transmission. There was also something online about break distribution system etc but I didnt see anything for the loyale. I also dont think it has ABS, I dont see anything there fancy except just a plain master cylinder. So my question is what is going on here, I am worried the spongy brakes may come back unexpectedly. I really want to know what the problem was. Was it the MC is it something else going on. Does this car have a HH system and brake distribution switch that could also be causing brake pedal to go to the floor? HELP!! -
the "Low Brake Fluid" dash indicator light started coming on, i filled it the first time, was fine for a few days, then it came on again, but the fluid in the reservoir was right between "Full" and "Low", and taking on and off the cap of the reservoir temporarily turned off the dash light. when it came on again, i made sure to fill it up completely again. then the next day, i noticed when driving, the brakes were getting softer, requiring very little pressure to push the pedal down about halfway, then eventually all the way down before the car would actually brake enough to come to a stop. i think my first concern was maybe something got into the reservoir when opening and closing it so many times and it clogged the line somewhere, but after talking to a few folks, the thought maybe some air got in and i should just bleed them completely and refill. from what of know, this car sat for probably 7 or 8 years before a got it a little over a month ago. up to this point, the brakes were working, despite the rhythmic shudder which was relative to the speed of the car when braking, like you'd experience on a bicycle if there was a bubble or bum somewhere on one of your tires. this seems more of a fluid pressure issue. the timing belt failed about 2 weeks ago and was not cheap to have fixed and definitely outta my league, as far as doing the work so i'd really like to fix this problem myself because i think i might be within my ability and resources. suggestions? i'm not giving up on it yet, but it's beginning to make me wonder if it's worth keeping for anything other than that fact the body's in good shape. did i mention sometimes it likes to not start? i mean i turn the key, there's a click, and dash lights go on, but that's it, nothing else. sometimes it only take a few tries and it starts up, but sometimes seems like it takes a bunch of tries, then leaving and coming back to it. i haven't had to jump it yet, but i've started carrying around a booster just in case. that's a whole other issue, i'm more concerned with my brakes, considering the safety aspect. very much appreciate, thank you
