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Showing results for tags 'blown'.
Found 5 results
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Hey guys my names Jonathan, my engine blew in my 2002 Subaru Legacy GT Limited, 2.5L non turbocharged, with a 6th digit VIN. I’m online lookin for motors and came across a 2005 2.5L, but it’s a DOHC and has a turbo as well. Would this be possible to put that in ?and if so how much wiring would I have to be re doing?…… or if it’s a bad idea all in general let me know as well. Thank you -
Driving down the highway at 70mph tonight a violent metal grinding slowed me to a stop in a few hundred feet. I felt parts flying at me in the cabin as I was slowing down. Upon inspection the shifter has popped free of it's layered plastic housing and is stuck in park. Moving it does not seem to engage the tranny. The car is still runnig but stuck in place. I'm assuming it's a blown transmission but understand that is quite rare on these cars. Anyone else has a similar experience? The car is a H6 3.0 Outback 176k miles. Previous symptoms were stuttering upon acceleration and an intermittent rattling that I thought was the exhaust shield. I will post pictures of what I find in the morning. -
Hello, I have a '92 Loyale FWD 3spd that I love to death. Since it's about to start getting cold (-11 degrees on the worst day) I decided I'd try installing a remote starter as I have direct line-of-site to my car from my living room window. Obligatory pic: The super simple starter box: http://www.compustar.com/product/cs800-s/ I've dealt with wiring quite a bit before, so I consider all of my connections to be solid and well insulated. The problem: The cs800 has 2 separate 12v+ constant wires, both connected directly to the battery. Each wire has a 30a inline fuse. One of these fuses always blows as soon as I attempt a remote start. I am assuming one 12v supplies power to the starter/ign and the other 12v supplies power to the accessories. Troubleshooting: -Cut the remote-start 12v to starter wire, still blows. -Took out EVERY fuse from the fuse panel (even spfi, fuel, etc). At this point all that is drawing power from the device on start is acc, and ignition. -Went back through all my connections and made sure they were good/correct. I'm starting to wonder if my cluster has a short in it because it was the only thing on when I had all the fuses out. My next test was going to be taking out the cluster and unplugging it to see if that helps. Now, not to muddy up the waters even more, but it does seem like my car has had an existing electrical issue since I bought it. It has 12.9v when off and a little over 14v when running which seems ok. HOWEVER if at a stoplight with my blinker on, I can audibly hear and see my dash lights dimming slightly when the blinker clicks on. Also, the heater blower will run faster if I turn off the headlights, etc. I don't think this should be happening with a healthy 14v cruising down the road. Let me know if you have any ideas or further troubleshooting that I can perform. Thanks in advance. -
I had been taking really good care of my Subie, an '04 FXT with only 76K miles, in very good shape, except…. when my turbo blew out recently, and then blew out my engine. Subaru service proposed, as no surprise, a new turbo and new engine as the solution, Problem is the $8K they quoted that I don't have. Should I try to sell my Subie as is? Where should I go to sell (a Subaru forum like this?, eBay?), how much could I expect? -
Hi all, Current vehicle of question: 1999 Outback Wagon, 2.5l DOHC, 120k, Second owners... This is a friend's car that I'm helping out with, and am hoping to get some good insight. Knew that this would be the place. Story: The car was bought last October, and has had 9000 miles put on it by a very calm and defensive driver... They started noticing the thermostat indicating it getting hot. After watching it, they noticed the coolant was low, and that they needed to add. Then they noticed air being forced into the coolant reservoir. They took it to a few independent subaru shops, and got the same answer: Blown Head Gaskets, and bad Viscous Coupler (for a different post....). So we pulled the motor, and started getting the heads off. It had the old style HG (http://allwheeldriveauto.com/subaru-head-gasket-problems-explained/), and they were both bad My question has to deal with the driver side head in particular... While taking the intake camshaft retainers off, a pressurized aqueous solution squirted out at us from under the retainers. Also, two of the camshaft retainer bolts were heavily corroded. Is this a sign of a cracked head? I plan on submerging the head in a tub of water, and spraying compressed air into the retainer bolt holes. If there are bubbles from anywhere, I'm assuming the head is bad? Should we be concerned with the block internals being compromised? How much should another head cost, and should they just slap a 2.2L in there (I'm in favor...)? The oil that we drained from the pan is not chocolaty/frothy. And there was maybe a gallon of coolant that drained out of the system. Thanks, Greg