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Showing results for tags 'bogging'.
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On idle, engine seams to completely want to stale because of boggs. also while driving down highway it seems like when i need to let go gas to reduce speed , when its time to finally give gas, i get wat i call " gas pedal kicks" seems to be a misfire p301 p302 p303 p304? I get the code p0172 too lean banc 1 (i know its the 02 sensor and have purchased one) after reading some older forums it seems like it wont make a difference? Im just looking for someone who had the same problem in the past to maybe shorten the spending spree i have changes plugs, wires, the coil, fuel filter and air filter no change, i also get po447 evap system valve open Any advice or knowledge???? -
98 ej22 in a Legacy L. ~141k I'm pretty stumped at this point and I appologize for a long post - bare with me here: After an oil change I start the engine with the knock sensor disconnected. I then reset the ECU or clear the code. Don't ask me why - it prevents the bogging issue - it works for me. After the latest oil change at 140k (Castrol 10w-40, FRAM filter), however, I have been getting the typical knock sensor bogging issue even after the tribal oil change dance. I moved the knock sensor to the location of a factory ground point (on bracket above starter), reset the ECU and drove for about 100 miles. Knocking? Yes. Hesitation, bogging BS? No. Corrosion was apparent on the mating surfaces so I sanded them back to clean metal. I then tried the old knock sensor in the factory location, reset ECU and got no joy. I do observe the ~15mile learning cycle by the ECU before it begins to bog. It is at this point I was confident a new knock sensor would fix my woes. I purchased a new Knock Sensor from Autozone and installed in correct location with about 15 ft-lbs making sure to orient the wire lead so that it was clear of block protrusions. Reset the ECU and got no joy. Now I started to suspect a bad connection so I cut the wire and hardwired the old knock sensor in sans connector. That resulted in no change of symptoms (see note 1 below). Now I was becoming befuddled and a bit ticked off. I can change the performance of the car by relocating the knock sensor but a new one won't fix the problem. I figured I didn't need a new knock sensor and, at this point, I started to march down the path of "Gee, maybe there's too much knock!" so I returned the new KS to Autozone. I drained/refilled and burped (to death) cooling system and installed a new thermostat (the bigger OEM type) and a new rad cap. Operates right around 180-190F according to OBDII data so it is not running hot. Then I went after the ignition system a bit: I installed $40 NGK wires and NGK Irridium plugs gapped to a tight 40 thou. I also installed 500 pounds of copper all over the place to enhance grounding. I cleaned the mating surfaces of the igniter and it's mounting plate, although the igniter is currently sitting on two ring terminals - one as a spacer only - the other with a lead directly to a ground point on same sheet metal platform igniter is mounted to. The coils are about 25k miles old and I have an older set which I have swapped out with no change in symptoms. The coil contacts are clean and I use dielectric grease on the plug wire boots. Then I filled up with high octane gas and reset the ECU. With the original KS installed in factory location I still got the bogging issue. When I move the KS to my off-the-block location the bogging goes away and there's no audible knock with high octane gas. So, at least I know that high octane gas really has a higher octane. After all this I went to the junkyard to source an OEM connector and soldered it in. There is a short section where the sheilding is soldered together but the rest is completely sheilded - see note 1 below. I then went back to Autozone to buy a new knock sensor. I did this with the hope that I would get another knock sensor (not the one I returned) but I got the same one. I'll ask and see if I can try another next time I'm by there. I purchased a BAFX Bluetooth OBDII adapter (cool tool) and tried to read engine parameters with Torque Lite. All I got was engine temp and load so an actual analysis of engine parameters was a dead end there. (If I buy Torque PRO will it give more engine data or is my car just too old-school?) At this point I'm thoroughly stumped. I will check the main harness connections but I don't expect anything to come of it. I saw some other threads on USMB with good info but it seems the threads just died without any real resolution - here, here, and here. I can't imagine it is anything other than knock sensor related. My next steps are to check the car's recall history and see if I can get a hold of a second new knock sensor to test the infant mortality theory. If a third knock sensor makes no change perhaps the ECU is to blame. All pointers/tips/ideas are welcome and appreciated! I have a degree in Electrical Engineering and can surmise that the real need for the sheilding on the knock sensor wire is when ignition parts begin to leak their current i.e. a leaky spark plug cable that is jumping to metal on the engine somewhere rather than fully to the plug. I can't imagine that there is any other source of electrical interference in the engine bay that could induce electric current in the wire - mine was a short, unsheilded piece which, I believe, means there has to be a LOT of unshielded current flowing somewhere else before any induction will take place in the short unsheilded wire to the knock sensor. -
Yesterday I had posted in the 'What have you done today thread.' All I had done was to replace the upper body complete with injector, throttle return spring & FPR without removing the lower throttle body from the intake manifold. Didn't have to disturb the coolant gasket nor the TPS this way. Problem was throttle response was feeling like the car was bogging similar to a too rich jetted carb. And the telltale smell of fuel out the tale pipe when engine was cold! Not good for the cat converter. Fuel injector was supposedly a 'rebuilt' unit in the SPFI body I had bought from a seller. The Air Control was new, but a used TPS & "rebuilt" injector. Had bought another throttle body complete on a PNP 50% off day almost year ago. Why not try it? Easy experiment. Timing set at 20*, TPS adjusted correctly, good plugs & wires, distributor checked out OK, fuel pressure OK. Etc. Here's some info from the 87 FSM for anyone who needs it.
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Hi All, This is Andrew here again. I am still trying to tackle this bogging out issue. My Brat runs really well when its not warmed up, but once it is warm it losses power when moving from a stopped position. I have completely rebuilt the carb and at this point I am pretty much done dealing with it. Its the stock carb and I am thinking its time to replace it with one of those webber carbs. Does anyone have a link to the carb that will work with my 1985 Brat 1.8L? As always, thanks in advance for your support and help. Cheers, Andrew
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