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Showing results for tags 'carb'.
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Vehicle: 1986 Subaru GL Wagon, Dual Range 5 Speed, Carbureted, Weber 32/36 Converted Issue: No longer getting Fuel Pump Signal to the Pump. It would be intermittent, but now seems to be consistent with getting no Signal. I've heard from @Gloyale that the 6 pin Fuel Pump Controller (Relay) only sends power to the pump when there is a Tachometer Pulse on the yellow wire... Is that Signal originated from the Distributor? Also I've heard from @GeneralDisorderin regards to the Controller, that: "The wire going to the pump is usually a blue with red stripe. The control unit will also have a yellow tach signal, black ground wire, and an ignition hot supply (white I think)." Background: The problem began intermittently... if I had an issue with the pump, I could either add Fuel directly to the carburetor to prime the system. Or, I could apply power directly to the Fuel Pump to also Prime the system. Occasionally I would have to do both in order to get the vehicle to run. Once the pump was working, it would not cut-out mid-trip. Not until the vehicle was turned off and then tried to be re-started later; would an issue happen, where I would have to do one off the pre-mentioned priming methods. Now the pre-mentioned priming methods no longer work... What kind of tests can I do to see what needs replacing? I'd like to have the wiring stay this way it was from the factory... however if not I could wire the fuel pump to a switch, racecar style... I'm not sure though; does the tach Signal increase/decrease pump speed based on engine speed? Thanks for reading, hope to keep my Wagon on the Road! -
,85 BRAT, Hitachi, 49 state, new fuel filters, old loud fuel pump, new front and rear fuel filters. The car will hesitate and lurch under certain conditions. If I let the car just idle still for a while, and then accelerate, there is not problem accelerating, until about 20 seconds into it, then the balking begins. The normal acceleration indicates to me that both carb barrels are working. I just drove this car up a 1/10 mile 7% incline several times. I let this car idle, still, at the bottom of the hill every time before I did the test. 2nd gear, 2,000 rpm, the car makes it up the hill just fine. 2nd gear, 2,500rpm, the car starts balking halfway up the hill. I am guessing the problem is the fuel pump, or the valve which fills the float bowl. Am I missing something? -
I installed a new Spanish Webber on my 83 GL two years ago and it ran great for a while. But around 6 months ago it started stalling when I turn left with the clutch pushed in. I recently put in a fuel pressure reg when it started flooding but I am still having the same problem. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks. -
22 degrees forecast for when I plan to start my ‘84 Webered EA81. I have never started this carb in weather so cold. 500 miles from home, with an old battery, also. Any suggestions for a cold weather start?
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I have an 85 Brat with a Weber Carb that won't start. I have replaced: Distributor cap Distributor rotor Fuel Pump Both Fuel Filters Spark plugs Spark plug wires The closest it ever got to starting was when I put carb cleaner in it. So maybe even though it has all new fuel parts it still isn't going to the carb? Any advice would be helpful.
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Hello Everyone, greetings from South America new to forum posting, long time voyeur. I recently picked up a 89 loyale 4wd ea82 carbed, 5mt dual range in regular body conditions but with a really smooth running engine, not so smooth tranny! My question is, What is the number of positions the 4wd lever should have (curved lever, not the "T" style lever found on brats), and what does its supossed to do on each? As of now i have figured out: 2H N ( should this be a 4 High?. No light at dash)) 4L ( this posittion turns on light at dash) Normal should be? 2h 4high 4low Little info: On purchase chek, i noticed a squirring sound when putting it on 4wd, (first step of lever y assume). Previous owner said it was only the rear diff being dry and that i would just have to pour some oil in it and it will stop making the sound, he offered me a deal, 200 usd of, if i took it like that, v/s regular price if he refilled it and it stopped the sound. Took the gamble, only to later find out that rear diff spins all the time (yikes!) Refilled it and it seemed to work fine! But still, cant find or seem to find how the heck to get it on 4wd High. Looked under the car when doing the oil change, when movin the 4wd lever it posittively made the rod on the transfer move in and out without issues.
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Many of us have done or are interested in upgrading our factory carbs to the Weber 32/36. But there is a challenge in fitting the electric choke version to our EA82 motors with the P/S reservoir right up front. Some have claimed they were able to dent in the back of this reservoir with out any ill effects. However I found a few comments made over the years stating that the electric choke wanted to intrude on the P/S more than a ball peen hammer can address. I am among this group. After installing the Weber/Redline adapter plates I found that the front of the electric choke wanted to be so far forward it would almost be touching the reservoir mounting bolts. There was no way I could bash in that much of the reservoir without causing big troubles. So I decided to install the Weber backwards. This of course caused a problem with routing the throttle cable. Once I found the best path the factory cable was not long enough to reach. So I made one. The parts I used were Brake cable from a road bicycle (think Tour de France) These have a similar ball end that you need. Universal motorcycle throttle cable kit (5' housing and assortment of fittings) http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00O1C2L7S?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00 Old factory Subaru throttle cable Here you can see the different parts to make the throttle work. After cutting the universal throttle housing to length I re-crimped the Subaru factory adjuster to it. You can also see that I am using the Weber linkage instead of swapping the Subaru cam. I was unable to get the secondary to open with the Subaru cam link so I tried the Weber and it worked on the lowest hole. You can see that the ball on the bicycle brake cable is smaller but it is still large enough to work This is the grommet that captures the ball end of the cable to the gas pedal The factory hole in the Weber cable location bracket was to high and was causing binding, so I drilled a new one to keep it level with the throttle linkage. The universal housing slid snuggly into the grommet in the firewall. I routed the cable low past the distributor and under the intake manifold. I continued it under the Alternator out the front and under the lip of the P/S reservoir. There is plenty of clearance from the belts and pulleys no worries. I really don't like the small air filter that comes with the Weber. I don't see these things doing a very good job on dry dusty dirt roads. So I went down to the junk yard and pulled the air filter box off a similar year EFI engine. The air box bolts right into the carb engine bay. I am tracking down the parts to make this work with the Weber. The benefits will be better filtration and it will be easy to find replacement filters when needed. I will update this post with pictures when it's complete. I am using an aluminum air intake adapter on the air box. The hole in the EFI air box and the adapter are both 3" in diameter. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HG7D56G?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00 I also advanced the timing to 12 deg while doing this conversion. I might advance the timing a little further.
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Hey guys I need some help. I used to have a 1980 brat but this seems like a slightly different ea71. So, i bought it and it has been pretty bad since I bought it. the previous owner replaced the cap and rotor as well as the ignition coil. I have replaced fuel filter, fuel pump (it was spraying gas everywhere), sprayed liberal amounts of carb cleaner and seafoam to clean carb out (it was quite dirty), replaced altenator (it died resulting in voltage regulator failure), Volatage regulator, and a couple of fuses that were blown or looked warped. I have a rebuild kit for the carb and I think this is what i need to do to get it to run right. I'm currently stuck because I don't have enough power to reach 30mph or go up the pass I need to. It smells rich and backfires. Looks like one of the jets isn't working? I am also planning on replacing wires and plugs. I have a spare carb off my old 80, but it need help too but at least it ran? Should I just swap it, would my kit work on rebuilding it and swapping? I can't seem to find a year specific diagram. This has the round airbox rather than the tire forming ones. Any help would be amazing thank you.
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Would it be about the same as carbing a old ej22? I have access to an ej18 full drivetrain for pretty cheap, and was hoping I could carb it, as my brat's wiring loom isn't too pretty, and I really don't wanna do more than I need to. So I just need to know if it'll have the accessport on the rear of the engine where you can throw the taurus disty, and if the intake mani is as receptive to taking a carb Thanks - CL
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I am Looking for advice on Where to purchase a Weber carb for my ea82 to replace my Hitachi carb.My car is an 85 GL-10 with a 60,000 mile EA 82 from an 89 dl with my old intake and disty. ALSO..... Will I need a fuel pressure regulator? Is there a fuel return line hookup? If not, what to do with the current return line? Are there better adapter plates with different vendors? Is it worth it to look for a used weber and rebuild it?
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So I got an 86 GL that has terribly blown head gasket or cracked head (quart of water mixed in oil), and I want to put my good Block from my 88 DL parts car into it and just put all the carb'd stuff off the blown engine and put in all onto the good shortblock. Is there any difference between an SPFI block and heads and a Carburated block and heads? -They're both Manual and both non-power steering Thanks everyone for any input! -
Ok so I have used seafoam engine additive quite extensively over the years to solve various carb and fuel problems. A common practice that I do each winter is to pour about two tablespoons of this "miracle liquid" into the carburetors of my snow machines. 95% of the time this will instantly clear up any problems with excelling, idling, or any other combustion related problems. I have torn down my carbs and all the machines that went through this little ritual are either completely clean or only need a quick blowout, while the ones that i didnt do this with are usually very dirty. So my question is, Does anyone think it would hurt my carb on my subie to do this? I ask because i know that there are obvious differences (size, 2-cycle snowmobile vs 4-cycle subaru), as well as many technical differences, between carbs on snowmobiles and carbs on subarus. Does anyone think it would hurt it? and if so, why?
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http://imgur.com/7Slevtg what is this? And how do I fix the broken wire? -
So i have a 85 station wagon, its currently got a weber on it. running great. But i recently bought a 87 FI manual trans wagon for 350$... It even runs! besides some serious fuel flow issues i drove it home 15 miles. My question is if i get the FI system working well, which would be better for mpg, FI or a weber? i plan on transplanting the 5 speed trans in either way.
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In March 2012 I hopped on a train to AZ within an hour of finding on craigsL a 1986 gl wagon on demand 4WD with only 141,568 miles on it! Her color was White and she was Pristine inside and out! Cold AC, alunimun alloy wheels, tires had 3,000 miles on them! For $2000.oo! I drove her the 400 miles home with no problems and she spead right up the hills! Her 5sp was great! Since then I had a new clutch put in and my stepson put in a new water pump and timming belts! I just love Subie's! Thanks for reading and hope to read others experience too! -
all of the sudden I started my 82 gl yesterday and the tac was viciously jumping up and down but it wasn't revving the motor all the way. I could kind of hear something under the hood making kind of a slipping/skipping noise. I thought it could have been frozen coolant because its mostly straight water and it was freezing outside. so I let it warm up while doing this then went on my way. it would stop for a little bit but even once warmed up and driving it was still fluttering even in 4th gear going 55. its really not wanting to stay idling now either. when I put the clutch in to come to a stop it idles down and dies if I don't rev it in time. Anybody ever experienced this? Please help! THANKYOU! -
Basically I'm wondering what radiators will work in my 82 gl wagon. With ea81. The junkyard has an 85 , 87 and an 88. Do these have the same radiator? Is there any parts from these cars that are the same from 82? Rear bumper possibly? What about turning lights and brake lights ? If any parts would swap right over with bolt in ease?
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Just rebuilt my lower half of the engine and I foregot to mark my vaccum lines and I think some were off to begin with. Anyone have a diagram they can post to help me out. I have 1.6 l 1980 Brat. Thanks.
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So my 87 carb'd GL has had cooling system issues since I got it. Due to an old clogged radiator. couple weeks ago I broke some of the fins on that old radiator and it started leaking. This was my GL's first cooling system leak. Got around to replacing the radiator while on a trip in Pennsylvania. I noticed along the drive that when the system was topped up with coolant I would have James Bond types of smoke (steam) clouds coming out of the back of the car on the highway. That's no good, so I replaced the radiator while I was there. Problem solved right? No. On the drive back to Jersey I still had occasional giant clouds of smoke out the back of the car on the highway. WTF right? Car stayed cool on the highway, got hot on local roads. Got the car home, haven't touched it in a week till now. Dug in and found that one of the bypass hoses had ruptured. It was leaking coolant on to the intake manifold and it would pool and eventually spill over right on to the exhaust. There's my steam out the back of the car. Documenting this for anybody searching issues like that. Steam out the back of your car and you're sure your headgaskets are okay? Chances are it's one of the small bypass hoses. The one that ruptured was the one coming from the thermostat housing. I've got replacement hoses for that particular hose, as well as another bypass hose that runs from above the water pump and wraps back and down just behind the driver's side of the Craptachi. I'm also replacing that small 90 * hose that comes from the top of the water-pump as well. I do have a question though; considering I have my air-box off and all these vacuum lines exposed, I've been trying to find GD's guide on what I can get rid of and cap off. Can anybody help me out there? It's just the stock Hitachi on an EA82. Thanks in advance. I HATE cooling system problems. Ugh.
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So, ive spent the last 2 weeks either waiting for parts or having to return parts because my local auto parts store always orders the wrong thing. Only to run into problems with the finished project... Here is the run down. Its an EA82 1985 subaru gl station wagon. Recent headgasket failure ( cracked heads ) non existent choke, and possibly a bad starter, and bad breaks. So i recently bought re manufactured heads, and a weber carb, and some shiny new brakes. My subi will be perfect after this! IF i can get it running. Here is what I'm 99% sure of. The cams are timed, the distributor is timed, ( enough to start ) and in correct rotation for TDC ( I have rotated it 180 degrees as i made that mistake and troubleshooted that issue. ) I have gas ( 2.5 psi worth from the fuel line ) I'm 90% sure i have no vacuum leak from the intake. as there is good vacuum there. I have excellent compression on all my heads. ( 120-140 ) So i think i have narrowed it down to spark. Which i have, on all wires but... The only thing i have to suspect is my ignition coil reads a little under spec, and my ignition control module reads as having interference. ( which it shouldn't ) But as i have spark im not sure if that matters. The other fishy thing is that my carb seems to spray alittle gas up through the choke butterfly as it turns over. It is so close to starting its not funny. But it just wont get there. Its just not catching/starting. Please help! I'm at wits end and i need this thing running before the end of the week. -
Hi All, This is Andrew here again. I am still trying to tackle this bogging out issue. My Brat runs really well when its not warmed up, but once it is warm it losses power when moving from a stopped position. I have completely rebuilt the carb and at this point I am pretty much done dealing with it. Its the stock carb and I am thinking its time to replace it with one of those webber carbs. Does anyone have a link to the carb that will work with my 1985 Brat 1.8L? As always, thanks in advance for your support and help. Cheers, Andrew
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Trying to ID the Carb on my 83 GL 4DR Sedan. I can't find the ID numbers, not sure if it is a Carter or Weber. Need to do a rebuild and looking for the right kit. Thanks.
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Hello all, So as of a few weeks ago, the idle on my '86 Brat dropped so low (to less than 100) that she'd stall after a couple of seconds at idle. However, when driving, performance is normal. I Imagine I'm going to have to take a look at the carb, there are various leaks, and I'm sure it's got a lot of gunk stuck in emulsion tubes...etc.. While I've never rebuilt / cleaned out a carb before, I know someone who's very good at it, and that will be helping me. Until then though, did some experimentation and developed a little quick fix that I'm not quite sure about being legit, but the result is an idle of about 1000. Here's what I did: In the picture above, noticed that there's a vacuum hose attached to some kind of thing-a-majiger (circled) that when the car is on, opens the throttle a bit. To get the car to idle again, basically fooled around with this, so that it opens the throttle more. Ended up moving the washer (orange arrow) to the other side of the bracket holding it and loosening the nut to shorten the arm that pulls on the throttle. Now it idles at about 1000. So my questions are: ... what is this thing? ...Is it part of the idle control? It was just a wild guess to adjust it like that. ...Is it safe for the engine to do this until I'm able to clean out the carb? ...and are there any other reasons why that would be causing her not to idle, but perform fairly well when driving? Thanks guys! -
see my build thread here: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/137408-weber-carb-on-an-ea81-in-a-subaru-standard/ so I got a new ea81, a weber carb and all the other pieces. got the correct adapter plate. put the hitatchi throttle cable stay on the weber carb. got a manual choke pull. cleaned the carb and all seems to be functioning. it came off of a small 4-cyl datsun truck. but I can't figure out how to run the throttle cable. it makes no sense. I got this little $25 adapter piece from carbs unlimited in auburn, but no clue where it goes to make the cable work. plus a few other tiny issues I'd like to get sorted out. I'll trade beer and some cash for someone to come show me what's up and get the thing running. I've got a garage and all the tools... but I normally work on MUCH smaller engines (vintage vespas), so all of this is very foreign to me. I'm free this weekend -- preferably sunday afternoon (june 2nd 2013) -
Been working on my '84 Brat lately. A few years ago I bought a Hitachi Carb from a junkyard, but I can't remember what it came off of. Was wondering if anyone could ID it, and could maybe give some insight on if I can use it on my Brat. Excuse me if I don't know the technical names of some of the parts. The one on the left is the Hitachi out of my 1984 Subaru Brat. The one on the right is the Hitachi from the junkyard. Noticeable differences: Original carb has two metal doohickies on the rear (circled) while the junkyard carb has only one. Original carb has mechanical/electrical solenoid on the left, yellow wire. Junkyard carb has all electrical. Original carb has a hose attached on the front (circled), the junkyard carb does not have this hose attachment. Junkyard carb has a hose going from the metal doohicky on the lower rear to the top of the carb. Original carb does not have such connection. I actually installed the junkyard carb and attached all the hoses, and was left with an extra hose with no connection, due to the junkyard carb not having the hose connection on the front. Car started and idled normally and throttle worked fine, however I was worried about the extra hose so I came here to ask the pros. The hose I'm talking about his highlighted in the second picture, I took pictures of everything before I unhooked the original carb, and labelled each hose. Anyone have any info on the mystery carb and if I can use it? Thanks in advance. Can get more pictures if needed.
