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,85 BRAT, Hitachi, 49 state, new fuel filters, old loud fuel pump, new front and rear fuel filters. The car will hesitate and lurch under certain conditions. If I let the car just idle still for a while, and then accelerate, there is not problem accelerating, until about 20 seconds into it, then the balking begins. The normal acceleration indicates to me that both carb barrels are working. I just drove this car up a 1/10 mile 7% incline several times. I let this car idle, still, at the bottom of the hill every time before I did the test. 2nd gear, 2,000 rpm, the car makes it up the hill just fine. 2nd gear, 2,500rpm, the car starts balking halfway up the hill. I am guessing the problem is the fuel pump, or the valve which fills the float bowl. Am I missing something?

Hey guys here with another hitachi carburetor quandary. I feel like I've been up and down these forums for fixing my cars running issue but I cant figure it out. I've got an 88 gl hatch with 150,000 miles that's been sitting for a few years. My Impreza was stolen so I decided to get this thing up and running. With just adding new gas and a battery it fired right up and ran decent. Because it sat for so long I went and changed the fuel filters. The distributor and cap are in great shape as well as wires and plugs. Because I was pretty sure the carb had never been removed i decided to rebuild it. I went through all the steps and got it back on in only a few days but now it's running rough. It won't idle unless its past 1200rmp and won't start without some gas pedal action. Also it seems to be misfiring quite bad. The spark plugs are gray implying its lean and the main jet sputters more than "jets." I'm not sure what to do. Here is a list of things I've tried. -vaccum leaks checked (none that I can find with propane) -adjusted the float to run more rich. (It just dies) -re-blewout all the vacuum lines and jets on the carb. -adjusted the timing to the FSM on each new adjustment. -and I've adjusted the idle mixture screw with nothing happening. This seems to be very odd to me. It should kill it if it's too rich or lean but I can screw it in all the way until it bottoms out our take it out completely with no difference. My suby has been down now for over a month with little to no change. I'll probably buy a weber conversion in the end but I want to understand this dreaded Hitachi and why it's not working. Please help!

I'm hoping someone can help me with an issue I am having. I have an 86 brat with the Hitachi Carburetor, I removed the Carburetor and cleaned it and installed a rebuild kit (mainly gasket) every since then when it first starts running it'll idle Really high (3-4000 rpms) then it gets to where it wont idle at all ! another thing it's doing (may or may not be related ) when giving it gas it acts like it's either not getting gas or has a hesitation in it until you rev it up about 25-3000 rpms then it'll open up and take fuel and run like it should. Any advice ? I'm planning on taking the carb back off and tiring it back down but, wanted to hear everyone opinions of what it could be (or what to look for). Thanks for helping !

Hi all, I've been using this forum for the last month to try and figure out for to get my 1983 Brat GL running. I recently rebuilt the Ea81 it came with and swapped the hitachi carb for a Weber (new). There are some rust issues with the car but the engine is in great shape. I've got the engine back in the car and it'll fire up with starter fluid sprayed straight into the carb. Tuned the fuel mixture, set idle, timing, etc. Now the issue is, if I detach the fuel line going straight to the carb and run the fuel pump, fuel comes out of the line and flows nicely. However, when I attach the fuel line to the carb and run the pump, it's like there is no pressure at all. No fuel runs through the forward fuel/vapor filter. I hear the pump running but fuel doesn't fill the filter. Could it be an issue with the float? Or possibly the Weber filter underneath where you attach the fuel line? Or a pressure issue? Do these carbs need a return line? Would really appreciate everyone's ideas and replies in advance. I've worked with the carb on my motorcycle (dr650) but other than that I don't have too much experience with carbed Subarus.

Here's the backstory: The carb I'm currently running on my EA81 in my Coupe I pulled off of an '81 brat in a junkyard along with the manifold. My unit says its a DCP 306-16/304, has manual choke and a vacuum secondary. The venturi sizes are 20/27. The only reference I can find to a carb like that is the Hitachi unit from Nissan A12 engines from the 70s. My setup has a small flat spot in the acceleration which has had me looking at how to remedy that. I am going to try raising the float level a smidge or maybe getting some slightly larger jets. I think this carb can run this engine properly it just needs tuned a bit more. It's pretty close as it is. The carb for the Nissan A14 engines is larger, I believe** its a 23/27, don't quote me on that. If I cannot get mine where I want it to be, I will get the A14 carb and see how it works. All the Nissan spec carbs have mechanical secondaries which is nice too, and manual chokes. The main point of this whole story is that I have found new A12 and A14 carbs (Hitachi design, just like the stock EA carbs) online for $40-$50. If these work satisfactorily this could be a cheap way to get a car running again and look stock, no worries of sloppy throttle shafts, and no expensive Weber swaps with stupid looking air filters. I will report back with more info and testing. Anyone tried this already?

Hi Hoping for some help from knowledgable eyes. I have a Subaru GL 87 1.8 Carb. **I recently replaced the overcharging alternator (bad regulator). After timing belt procedure it decided to quit. Overview of this engine- 1. Here is the biggest problem, rear of motor and of alternator area: This hose (below) is broken the engine shakes a little more after, and when i cover the hole it calms down. I found the possible piece ( top) Not sure where else it was connected to? 2. I also found this guy hanging around, looks like it should be bolted down, but what is this? 3. Plugs behind Alternator not connected, what are they for? 4. disconnected plug Under Hood Driver Side Top, Where does it plug? what is it? the black broken tube (arrow) a problem? 5. On Passender Side Top disconnected and unknown plugs, what are these? Thanks for any help

Hello there fans of the great Subaru ,I have a justy j10, I bought a year I go It wasn't in good condition but I like it ever since I been fixing it up .so far it started from a little fix to a how to become a mechanic . To the point the idle run pure not all cold, runs ok with choke full open and then to high rev,s .I took if off once cleaned up but not much improved, so I AM thinking it's time to go with an other carb in fact a 38/19830,202 38 dgas Weber like carb my question is will it run ? Will be ok? And not use fuel like crazy?

22 degrees forecast for when I plan to start my ‘84 Webered EA81. I have never started this carb in weather so cold. 500 miles from home, with an old battery, also. Any suggestions for a cold weather start?

Hello. Having trouble with my electric choke. When the weather is hot i have no problem starting car and driving it around. Problem came when one morning it was a little cooler and engine would not stay on by itself only by playing with the gas pedal. I know this has to do with the choke. I currently have electrick choke conecyed to the back of alternator. Maby i need a different source of constant 12V from somewhere. I am using a weber carburetor any ideas were i can properly connect the electric choke too? I beleive power source should only be there when i turn the key. Thanks.

I have a weberized 85 Brat with the 3 speed auto transmission. After a couple months I finally got it running. It idles kinda rough and i have to keep the timing fully retarded (literally) or it will stall out, but it does idle. I believe that there are no vacuum leaks so it shouldn't be that. My main problem is that it idles at about 1K and revs fine, but as soon as its put in gear the RPMs drop to about 500 and it splutters and shakes. If i give it any gas at all while its in drive or reverse it dies, no matter what i do. It seems as soon as a load is being put on the tranny/engine it dies. Does anybody know what would be causing this?

I have an 85 Brat that I just put a new weber carb on. Problem is when I got the carb mounted up and started it the car immediately went to 5K RPMs and sat there. I checked the throttle wheel and it was ok. I even started the car with the throttle wheel assembly completely unattached from the carb, but it still idles at 5K RPMs. I know I must be missing something. My guess is a vacuum hose. So far all I have hooked up to the new carb is the fuel line and the vacuum hose to the distributor. My questions are what else do I need hooked up to the carb? And if I do need something else where is it and where do I plug it up. I'm new at this so any pictures, diagrams or whatever would be much appreciated. I can add some pictures tomorrow of the car tomorrow afternoon if anybody thinks it'll help. Thanks!

I just recently bought an 85 Subaru Brat for 500$, that supposedly only needs a new carburetor. Like most people on here I'm doing a Weber 32/36 swap for it. I don't need to pass an emissions test so I want to get rid of as much unnecessary stuff as I can (EGR, vacuum hoses etc). My question is what hoses can I either cap off or just pull completely? I have pictures of my engine bay, with the Hitachi gone. I would appreciate it if someone could label them. Pics: https://ibb.co/hnqbjk https://ibb.co/kEKfAQ https://ibb.co/fOVbjk https://ibb.co/mSv94k https://ibb.co/nkRGjk

Hello subaru-gurus, I recently acquired an 86 GL wagon with 230,000 miles. For a few days after I brought it home, on cold starts in the morning it would fire up but idle at a very low RPM. It would stall, and have to be restarted until it seemed to warm-up and then it was fine. Then one day, after starting it and getting the same start-up symptoms I was driving it down the road and about four miles from my house, it stopped running while driving at 55mph down the highway. I coasted it to the side of the road and attempted to restart it. It presented symptoms similar to those when it was cold started, as described above --- fired but would not stay running or even idle. After repeated attempts, the engine progressively showed no sign of starting. When I dump gas into the open throat of the carb the engine will start for a few seconds and then stall out. On seeing this I changed the fuel filter closest to the gas tank hoping that might be the problem. I attempted to start the engine equipped with the new filter but it would not start. Since the new fuel filter is clear, I noticed that after my prolonged attempt at starting, that almost no fuel had filled the new filter. If the fuel pump is pumping shouldn't all of the excess air in the filter be pumped toward the carb and thus get the air out of the fuel filter? Could my problem be anything else than a bad fuel pump? Cheers, Dave

I have been marooned for months now, living by my wits, doing evertything to save my Subaru Brat and my practical life. I have now succeeded in getting carb rebuilt, replacing water pump & almost a dozen gaskets, and other parts/ewprk/etc. Same problem persists.| Some months ago mechanic rebuilt carb, used two carb gaskets instead of one, after that water was spewing into carb, blew out whole water/coolant stystem, caused all kinds of problems. It has been HELL, and any other engine, I could not have got this far. Got it barely/technically running, was able to come into town, gtet supplies and to use wifi and post this. Not sure when I willo be able to c heck this post/thread/etc again, maybe tomorrow or soon, depending on all too many things. How is water still going into my carburetor?!? How can I stop it? Engine runs, very hard to start, for potentially obvious reasons. I suspect something wrong where the intakje manifold is concerned. There is a small coolant hose, about the size of a fuel line in diameter, going from one part of the manifold to another ver near each other near the distributor. Could that be it? Can I plug them up without causing serious danger or problems for engine? I have to stop this water from coming into my carb!!! Help ?!?!?

As the title says... I'm converting to E-85. I need a little help. I've looked around on USMB, but haven found the info i need. (Just a lot of political stuff .) So here's what I know. E-85 has a stoichiometric value (air fuel ratio) of about 9.8 to 1 and Gas is 14.7 to 1. The carburetor meters the fuel with the jets. The number stamped on the jet refers to the diameter in hundredths of a millimeter (0.01mm). A 155 main jet, for example, has a hole of 1.55mm in diameter. Larger numbers make the engine run richer (more fuel). Simple stuff... Using some math we can figure the area of the jet ( π r 2 ) and use a ratio calculation to get my new jet size. So take my 106 jet; the radius of 1.06mm is 0.53mm (1.06/2). Times it self, 0.53 x 0.53 = 0.2809 (r 2 ). Next, 0.2809 x π = 0.882473 mm2. A 106 jet has a surface area of 0.882473 mm2. Now, ratio calculation: 0.882 x 14.7 = 12.9724... 12.9724 / 9.8 = 1.3237 I need a jet with the area of 1.3237. Reverse the ( π r 2 ) formula and it turns out, I need a 130 jet to replace the 106. Drill out my jet to 1.3mm and presto! I have a Hitachi carburetor capable of running E-85. Not so simple... Feel free to check my math. Here are my questions... The Hitachi has eleven jets. Which ones do i drill out? Only the primary jet and the secondary jet (someone mentioned)? AND how do I identify which one is the primary and which one is the secondary? Are those the ones on the bottom of the float bowl? Or do I drill all eleven?

I have several factory parts for sale that have been removed from my 1985 Subaru GL Hatchback. Factory Carburetor complete with Air Cleaner, Filter, Hoses, etc. Both Front Turn Signal Assemblies that mount in the bumper Both Front Bumper Energy Absorbers Both Front Marker Light Assemblies Several Front Bumper brackets that hold parts to the bumper I have a set of factory white spoke wheels with good tires 13" I have the factory spare with original tire that mounts under the hood My email address is: LV2GOFST@yahoo.com Please contact me with any questions.

I got a 1979 Subaru DL today. Unfortunately it is FWD and Automatic, but the price was right!!!!! It is having a couple problem probably from sitting for a year. When I start it it runs at idle for about 2 seconds then screams like I have my foot to the floor! I used a can do carb cleaner, checked the idle and mixture screw, checked air lines and don't see any problems. Could it just be that the float is not seating and the pump is just pouring gas? I drove it home 4 miles, started it and put it in gear it would take off and start racing, when it got going to fast I would shut off the key and let it slow down, then when I needed to go faster I would turn the key on and it would kick start even though it is an automatic. Hairy ride home but I made it. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Ideas on Swapping a Weber Carburetor on a Subaru EA82 Engine In this Writeup you'll find The Basics: ► A complete installation Guide. ► Solving problems untold by the Manuals. ► Jetting for the EA82 to be used between Sea Level and ~ 6500 Feet (2000 Mts) Altitude. ► Proper routing for the P.C.V. (Positive Crankcase Ventilation) System's Hoses. The Advanced: ► A much better Adapter Plate than the one designed for the EA82. ► What to do with the ASV, EGR, etc... The Optional: ► Installing an Oil Catch Can on the P.C.V. System. ► Distributor's Advance Modifications. ► intake Manifold Modifications. ► ignition Coil upgrade. ► Exhaust Piping Modifications. ► ...and Much More! Pay attention to the "Important Notes" Introduction: On early 2006 I Swapped a progressive Weber 32/36 Carburetor on my 1985 Subaru White Wagon (which isn't white anymore),, that swap job required more things to be done than what the Manual included with the kit, stated; so I'll explain here everything that is needed to successfully do the Swap, and I will add Photos describing all the problems I faced and the ideas I had to solve them; Hoping that this writeup will Help you to Swap a Weber carburetor on an EA82 Subaru engine, flawlessly. Many of the Ideas that I explain here, are also aplicable to the older Subaru EA81 engine as well, basically talking, almost everything except the adapter plate. REMEMBER: Use this Ideas at your Own Risk! First of All: the Redline-Weber K-731 Kit, which is designed to install a Weber carburetor on the Subaru EA82 carbureted Engines, came with the following items: A Progressive Weber 32/36 Carburetor, an Air Filter Box plus its element, a Throttle Cable Bracket, some Gaskets and a two plate Adapter, which consists on one Lower plate designed to be mounted directly to the intake manifold, and one Upper plate, designed to be mounted over said Lower plate; this last one receives the studs which are intended to Hold the Weber Carburetor in place; and needs the Gaskets inbetween ... Also this kit, comes with a bag with different screws and the studs. All the Weber carburetors that are Sold in the USA, comes with a sticker with a Statement that says something like: "For Racing -or Offroading- Purposes Only" due to Smog, pollution and other Legal Regulations which varies from State to State, so They're Not "Street Legal" on certain areas and that statement shall be placed on all brand new Weber Carburetors, due to said Legal Regulations; so you must be sure that you are legally allowed to do this Swap on the Area where you Live, prior to start. Determining which type of Weber carburetor you do Need There are many different Weber Carburetors' Designs on the market, however the two models used more often on Subaru Engines, are those who features two Barrels. (Forget about using a single barrel carburetor on these Subaru engines, simply it doesn't worth the effort.) Basically talking, there are two variations of the two barrel design on Weber Carburetors, that works good with these Subaru engines, one design is known as the Progressive Models (being the most popular, the 32/36 DEGV) and the other design is known as the Synchronous Models (being the most popular, the 38/38 DGAS). Each of the two barrels, has its own butterfly that opens / closes according to the Throttle position; if you want to be Sure which model you do have, just take a look at the Linkage that opens the butterflies between both Barrels, it is located behind the throttle plate: If Both Butterflies on both barrels, opens at the same time, always when the throttle position moves, it is a Synchronous Weber (like the 38/38 DGAS); But if one barrel's butterfly starts to open only after the other one have already reached the half way open, then it is a Progressive Weber. (like the 32/36 DEGV). The Synchronous Webers, like the 38/38, are used mainly for Racing purposes due to the Higher Fuel usage (Both identical barrels works / opens at the Same Time, all the time), and thus means that if you use a Car with such kind of carburetor as daily driver / commuter, it will become a Gas guzzler. The Progressive Webers, like the 32/36, are used for all mixed driving needs, as you commute using only one barrel which is known as the Primary -Low- Stage (usually with a Smaller Jetting); and the other barrel, which is known as the Secondary -High- Stage (usually with a Bigger Jetting) is only in use during deep accelerations, so you have the Best Balance between Power and Fuel Consumption. I chose a Progressive 32/36 Weber carburetor, which is, in my own humble opinion, the best option in Carburetor that you can choose for this retrofitting job; however this writeup is still applicable, if you have a synchronous Weber. That been said, lets Begin to explain the Problems I Faced during the Swap Job, and How I Solved them. ~► First Problem: The Lousy Adapter Plate. As I stated above, the K-731 kit that I obtained from Redline Weber, came with a Lousy Adapter, conformed by two separate Plates, Lower plate and Upper plate, each one has its own flaws ... ... The Lower Plate needs four screws to be Held properly in place, directly bolted to the intake manifold; each screw has a cone shaped, flat top head, whose angle is approximately 60° and is designed to fit on the also cone-shaped seats of the plate's openings; the matching angles holds that plate in place. Then comes the Upper plate, which goes directly bolted to the Lower plate; finally, the Weber carburetor mounts on that Upper Plate. The Flaws of the two-Plate adapter: While the weak thin walls on the threaded openings for the Studs, is the main flaw on the Upper plate, (Look for further information and photos regarding the Upper plate, on the following post of this writeup); the way to bolt the Lower plate to the intake, is another flaw, let me explain: The Redline-Weber K-731 kit came with two different sets of screws provided to bolt the Lower Plate of the adapter, to the intake manifold; one set of four silver screws, comes with the appropriate size and pitch for the Subaru EA82 intake manifold's threads (6 mm ~ 1/4"), but the heads of those thin screws are very small, around the half size of the cone shaped seats on the lower adapter plate. The other set of four black Screws provided, are thicker (8 mm ~ 5/16") and their heads fills completely the cone shaped seats on the lower adapter plate; but their thread and pitch are big and do not fit on the intake manifold's threads. Here you can see a comparison photo, of one of the silver 6 mm screws (I call it "Subaru Standard" screw) provided, next to one of the black 8 mm screws (I call it "Weber Special" screw) provided, for the same Lower plate: (sorry for my Cheapo Cellphone's camera photo) It is impossible to bolt in a ►"safe"◄ way, the Lower plate to the intake Manifold using the thinner 6 mm screws provided; but I bet that they included both sets, in order to let the unexperienced or Lazy mechanics / owners, to swap the carb fast and easy. Those tiny silver screws will make the first plate to get Loose, developing vacuum leaks sooner or later, because their small size, makes the screws to have enough room inside the plate's opening, to move and slowly unscrew, from the engine's inherent vibrations; it's only a matter of time. Also the tiny silver screws only covers half of the seat, on the openings of the lower plate, making a weak union. I already faced a vacuum leak: I was unexperienced when I did my first Weber swap, years ago, and I used the tiny silver screws as they matched the threaded openings on the intake manifold... it developed a Vacuum Leak between the intake and the lower plate, in less than a couple of months, despite that it was bolted tight, using a shellac smeared gasket. After that vacuum leak, I removed the intake manifold to check the install, and then I understood the reason why they put a second set of screws by seeing how loose the Lower plate became with the tiny silver screws... I decided to use the Bigger diameter black Screws, instead. In the Photo Below, you can see how the Heads of the silver 6 mm (~1/4") screws, doesn't fit properly on the cone shaped seats of the lower plate adaptor; they only covers the half from the cone seat and their heads doesn't fill completely the space of the opening in that plate. Next to it, you can see how the Heads of the black 8 mm (~5/16") screws, really fits perfectly there, they sits on the whole cone shaped base, while filling completely the opening, giving a much safer flush mount, which prevents the screws from getting loose with time and vibrations, as they doesn't have space for moving, because the Upper plate will be placed over them. So, some modifying job to the intake manifold is required for sure, if you want reliabilty: to drill and tap it, re-threading the intake manifold's threads to match the size of the bigger black screws provided, in order to use them to bolt the Lower plate properly, and firmly in place. To make those Bigger diameter black screws to fit, You will need to Drill and tap new Bigger Threads to the intake manifold, but Be Careful when doing that: The intake manifold is also a coolant crossover, so you must take the proper depth measurements to avoid drilling onto a water passage. I Kindly Suggest you to remove the whole intake manifold from the Engine, prior to do the rethreading. Here you can see how the intake Manifold originally was, right after removing the old Craptachi carb and gasket, just before removing it from the Engine: I took off the whole intake manifold to Drill the New Oversized Threads From 6 mm (~ 1/4") to about 8 mm (~ 5/16") Also I Sent the intake manifold to a Machine shop, to polish the flatness of the Carb's base: Here, you can see how the Bigger black screws Now fits perfectly there: Then, I Washed clean the intake manifold using Household Detergents, to remove any debris Important note: I kindly suggest you, that the inbetween gaskets should be placed Smeared (the two faces) with a thin layer of Shellac, because shellac is Coolant / Oil \ Gasoline Resistant (more info on Shellac ~►Here) other gasket makers will fail in that place; the idea is to avoid any kind of Vacuum leaks. ~► Second Problem: To Seal the (Now Unused) Water Passage for the Old Craptachi Carb. If this procedure is not done right, the cooling system will spill coolant on the intake manifold, right to the carb's base opening, so be Careful! My first solution was to place the Gasket completely smeared with Shellac over that water opening, and also I cut in half the tiny Hose which supplies coolant for that Passage, and cap closed both ends of said hose, using screws and clamps... That lazy solution worked fine for five years, but you must consider that there is still a coolant flow inside the water crossover of the intake manifold; so there still will be coolant flowing on that Area, even without said hose. You might use Cold Welding Compound such like the 4 minutes "JB Weld" to fill close that opening ... as I wrote, I ran my subie for years with only a Shellac smeared gasket and a removed hose without problems, but that setup was about to Fail after five years. Continue reading, in further posts of this writeup I will show you another Idea which is a definitive and permanent solution for this problem. After placing the Gasket, smeared with Shellac on both sides, inbetween the intake and the first plate, I bolted it there: (Notice the Bigger Screws and how their Heads fills the Plate's openings) Then, the Upper plate went over that first one, Also with a gasket smeared with Shellac on both sides, inbetween: And Then you can place the Weber Carburetor. ~► Third Problem: Power Steering Equiped Models. If your EA82 engined Subaru, has a Power Steering Pump, the Choke's Spring mechanism on the Weber Carb, will hit the Power Steering Pump's reservoir ... ... and even removing the Choke's Spring, the base for the said spring, impacts the bolt's head at the back of the power steering pump. (Here, the Choke spring was already Removed from the Weber Carburetor) At the Caribbean Tropics of Honduras, we don't need the choke too much, so... ► My first solution was to Remove the Choke's Spring, but it wasn't enough: also I had to cut Half of the head from one of the Steering Pump's Rear Bolts, to prevent the Base for said choke's spring from hitting it. ► A second Solution consist in, besides from removing the above mentioned Spring, to Completely Remove its Base from the Carb, along the choke's Butterflies (or choke plates), so you don't need to cut nothing. ► A third solution done by other persons, is to install the Weber Backwards, with the Choke facing the windshield instead to the front; it is doable, but in my own humble opinion, it might lead to another complex set of Problems. You can see photos and read further, in this example: ~► http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/156836-installing-weber-3236-backwards/ ► After lots of Research, I found a fourth and definitive Solution, which is easier than all the others. Continue reading, because in the next posts Nº 2 and 3 of this writeup I'll explain with details this better Solution ... ... which does Not require to modify, to cut nor to remove anything, so you can keep the Weber carburetor with a working Choke on the Models that features Power Steering, as easy and simple as install and go. Hooking properly the Accelerator Cable I installed on the Weber Carb, the throttle's Cable Plate Taken From the old Craptachi carb... ...Plus the part of it that works with the Air Conditioner Accelerator Actuator, which with a simple twist on its metal plate (due to the new carb's different angle) I managed to made it work good. The K-731 kit from Redline-Weber, also includes a Bracket to hold the Accelerator's Cable in Place, you must install it Carefully without Bending it, on the two rear screws that holds the Carburetor, on the Adapter plate; and you'll notice that the Accelerator's Pedal really covers the complete Acceleration Travel on the Weber Carburetor. In case said Bracket is bent Towards the Carburetor, the accelerator's Pedal will never get the Full Acceleration from the Carburetor because the Cable doesn't go Back enough to fully Open the Secondary -High- stage; in that case you'll need to bend it back; but Never do it when it is installed, it could damage the Adapter Plates; so take the Bracket out and bend it there. Once the Bracket is properly set, the accelerator pedal provides full travel for the accelerator on the Weber carburetor. So, the Intake Manifold + the twin Adapter Plates + the 32/36 progressive Weber Carburetor + the accelerator cable's Bracket behind, ended looking in this Way: (Yes: Those are my dirty Hands) Once installed, the EA82 Engine started at the Very First Try and Purred like a Kitten... a Boxer Kitten! ... ... you know. The Weber carb reveals somehow the Hiding potencial of the engine, and the Boxer Rumble Sound of the Carburated EA82's at its Best! ... ... While lets you Clean the crowded engine bay, removing lots of unused smog stuff. It is a Win-Win Deal for sure. I Noticed a Huge Improvement inmediately! ... Summarized in a quicker Engine Response and Faster Acceleration, smoother Idle and a really noticeable Better Low end torque. Fuel Consumption remains close to the Stock Specs ... (if you drive carefully) ... but the Weber swap could make you to want to keep the gas pedal floored ... ... in that case, fuel consumption will increase for sure

I recently bought a 1983 DL 4wd wagon ea81 engine, 104 k miles from a dealer with "a bad carburetor that can't be fixed". I got it running smoothly with a can of cleaner and a few tanks of fresh gas w Lucas gas treatment. It still kept stalling at decel and only got 18 mpg, so i bought a carter carb kit w manual choke kit from redline and installed it. I got it idling nicely-accelerates great, but now the radiator fan won't turn on, and of course it runs hot. I plugged the old vaccuum /emissions hoses during the carb install till i see what can be removed (never will need emissions inspection). The only thing i can find in a manual that may affect it is a :thermosensor" in the old carb. Is the fan not turning on because of a vaccuum/emissions hose that needs opened up, or the old carb sensor missing?---can this be by passed?

I've recently narrowed down my car issues to my carburetor. I have a parts Brat so i took that one out and popped it in mine, all the seals are new but it is a different version. And now gas comes of an odd area so i was going to put the old one back in, but theres a loose lever i can't figure out, can someone tell me where this is suppose to be connected with. its the part where my finger is.

Ok so I have used seafoam engine additive quite extensively over the years to solve various carb and fuel problems. A common practice that I do each winter is to pour about two tablespoons of this "miracle liquid" into the carburetors of my snow machines. 95% of the time this will instantly clear up any problems with excelling, idling, or any other combustion related problems. I have torn down my carbs and all the machines that went through this little ritual are either completely clean or only need a quick blowout, while the ones that i didnt do this with are usually very dirty. So my question is, Does anyone think it would hurt my carb on my subie to do this? I ask because i know that there are obvious differences (size, 2-cycle snowmobile vs 4-cycle subaru), as well as many technical differences, between carbs on snowmobiles and carbs on subarus. Does anyone think it would hurt it? and if so, why?

Overview: If your stock carbureted Subaru EA engine feels Gutless, slower than it used to be, and some times, it overreacts during acceleration and sounds louder while your subie runs like a bat out of hell, and the Hitachi Carburetor has a Vacuum Operated Secondary (high) Stage; I Bet that the Vacuum actuator that activates it, is failing. Even with non failing vacuum activated secondaries; I've made Mechanical Conversions on those carburetors, always with Great Results. The Difference between the Vacuum operated and the Mechanically operated Secondaries (high) Stages, lies in the Moment for Reaction, and how the engine reacts to your acceleration behaviour; let me explain: In the vacuum operated carbs, the Secondary (high) Stage which gives the "Power", will work depending on the engine's vacuum; which depends on RPMs, and thus means that it will work accelerating indirectly; while on the Mechanically operated carbs, the "Power" is always there, to react at your very will, each time you press the Gas Pedal, and thus means that the acceleration is Directly. The mechanically activated secondary (High) stage on the Weber carburators and its Robust, pure smart simplicity, are the main factors why a Weber Carb is super desirable on the Carburated EA engines; it also helps you to get rid of tons of unuseful things from the crowded engine bay... on those states in USA with not too restrictive laws, regarding pollution control. But if you can't afford a Weber carb, or don't want to do ~► the Weber Carb Swap Job, then a Mechanical Conversion on your Hitachi Carb will help your ride to be more reactive to your accelerating behaviour. There is absolutely No Downsides with such Mechanical Conversion on the Carburator, if it is Done properly. How to do the Mechanical Conversion: Prior to explain that, I must say this: If you really don't understand and don't have too much mechanical experience, then I kindly suggest you to Ask to a Qualified Mechanic with Knowledge / Experience in Carburetors, to do that Mechanical Conversion for you, instead of trying it by yourself; because to instal a badly assembled / damaged carb, could be pretty Dangerous in many different ways, so Be Careful! (Disclaimer: Use all the info I post, at your own Risk) Basically talking, the Mechanical conversion is done at follows: ► Remove the Vacuum actuator attached to the secondary (High) Stage, along all its hardware, ► close any open threads with screws; ► then attach a piece of hard, inox wire, firmly secured to the mechanism that opens the primary (low) stage Butterfly, which is directly connected to the accelerator plate, (in the other side) where the accelerator cable goes. ► Then, Twist that wire giving to it the shape of a Hook or a curved finger that wanna pull something, in order to let the primary (low) stage butterfly, to touch and move the mechanism that moves the Secondary (High) stage Butterfly, just after the primary (low) has been moved and it reached around its Half (50%) opening. You must "Calibrate" that movement on the Secondary (High) stage, by twisting the Wire, in order to achieve Full Opening of Both Butterflies when the Accelerator Plate is at fully acceleration (Maximum) which equals to the Gas Pedal being floored, and also the Secondary (High) Stage butterfly shall remain completely closed, during the first half movement from the primary (low) stage butterfly. Let me Show you a Short Video that Demonstrates how it Works: Here is an easy Repair guide for those Hitachi Carburetors, plenty of pictures (Not mine, Found it online) Download it here: ~► Hitachi 2 Barrel Carburetors Visual Repair Guide If you find useful information here, let me Know by hitting the "Like" Button. Kind Regards.

I picked up a Brat in Washington a few months ago for a song. It's a real fun car, but something is wrong. when i give it gas it shudders and seems as though its gulping. it doesnt like to get to highway speed and I have even noticed that taking my foot off the gas slightly makes it accelerate faster. its runs particularly rough in the cold and in the rain. thoughts?

Hi Any help would be much appreciated. I have been trying to get this car going again. I have a 87 Subaru GL 1.8L ea82 carburetor engine Manual Transmission. I am doing a timing belt replacement. Plus, I decided to change the cam and crank seals at the same time. I was following the basic Chiltons book while doing the change. I removed the old belt in the initial part of the change. Now as I am putting things back on, and ready to put on the new timing belt, I am reading to have the cam sprockets positioned differently then they are. On the Driver side my Cam sprocket is DOWN. On the Passenger side my Cam sprocket is UP. Now that I have the timing belts off, how do I move my cams to the proper position to finish belt install? I'm nervous about how they should be correctly moved, all instructions simply say line it up with no in-depth details on how. Here is the DRIVER CAM with hole DOWN: http://s12.photobucket.com/user/luckyme218/media/car/photo1.jpg.html Here is the PASSENGER CAM with hole UP: http://s12.photobucket.com/user/luckyme218/media/car/passcam.jpg.html

!987 subaru gl wont idle. Mechanic said primary jet clogged and needs rebuilt and he doesn't do that kind of work.Is there some fuel cleaner or something else that can be done. Need help! How about you Gloyale. Thanks