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Showing results for tags 'choke'.
Found 3 results
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Folks: I have a 1983 Subaru GL wagon with a 1.8 engine, and it has a Hitachi carburator that has an electrically heated, bi-metalic automatic chokeoperation. Anyway, the thing has been VERY cold natured just recently, and until it runs for several minutes, it goes like a bucking bronc. The Haynes manual book tells me to check for voltage at the electric bi-metalic heater. I did, and it only reads 1 (ONE) volt. Is this supposed to be all it reads??? That wire is supposed to send current to the bi-metalic automatic choke thus heating it up so that it expanded the bi-metalic coil, and opening the choke slowly. Although the book don't tell how many volts it;s supposed to read, there is an illustration in the book, and the electrical multimeter in the pic is reading 6 volts. I also turned the ignition to the "on" position and put my finget to the bi-metalic coil and it dod NOT get hot as it;s supposed to. Is there something like a resistive wire that is limiting the wire to the 1 volt I'm reading, therefore, not giving it enough heat to make it operate the automatic choke??? Thanks a LOT fo rANY help. Chuck
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So I've got a Webber 32/36 dgev on a ea81, I've set the choke spring 100 times now, it usually works and chokes for the next time I cold start but then slips again, I'm tempted to ask mudrat John Blume in Eugene for a spfi setup, and the throttle linkage is now rusty and sticking it open. Suggestions on the choke spring and my rusty rump roast throttle linkage before it sticks open and I go Into a fence, I can deal with no choke even in winter, but the throttle stick is killing me. I figure if I take off the carb I can wire wheel the rusty linkage or if y'all think my carbs junk I could look further into purchasing spfi swap parts from Mudrat
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My Subie has had an ongoing exhaust problem for a while now. This car's saga is long, but I won't take up space here. Noisy exhaust, gray-blue smoke out the tail pipe, had to keep my foot on the gas on start up to keep it from dying, possible choke issue as well, etc. After a long drive (500 miles) to visit my daughter, the problem seemed worse. A couple of days later, I heard a soft pop and the car seemed to run much better. However, it started to auto-rev at start up—up to 2500 rpm then back down. Once the car warmed up and I started driving, it seemed fine. A day later (yesterday), it started to auto-rev whenever I idled. Tonight, on my drive home at highway speeds (55 mph), it started auto-revving at those speeds, and was going into the red. I had to pull over and stop three times within a couple of miles to let it calm down. Also makes an horrendous grating squeal when revving, as if a belt is rubbing hard. Help! Not a mechanic and I wouldn't know what looked normal and what didn't if I were to crawl under there or look under the hood.
