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Showing results for tags 'clutch'.
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I have a 1982 BRAT that I'm replacing the clutch on. Probe is my clutch is a 24 spline and every replacement I'm seeing is 21 spline. I think it's an aftermarket transmission. The only tag I'm seeing on the bell housing is a sticker with the numbers 064474. I don't see any other markings, but it's hard to tell because the previous owner painted the motor and tranny. Anybody have any tips? -
Hi all, '98 OBW, 2.5L high compression build, 5MT After moving to Las Vegas, Nevada about two years ago, I've finally begun wanting to use my air conditioning system. Before moving down here, I had a mechanic pull vacuum on the system and charge it. I think he put in less than 2 lbs? It was a very minimal amount. Here are the symptoms that I'm experiencing. Blows cold while driving, and cool while idling. While driving, when the A/C compressor kicks on, there is a VERY noticeable decrease in performance... almost like I've instantaneously been loaded with a 700 lb 4x8 U-Haul trailer...It'll buck/shake the car slightly. I know I've read multiple times on the forum that the A/C can rob power, but this seems exceptional. The motor has good compression (in the 200s) and has lots of power when not using A/C. I am in the habit of turning the A/C off when accelerating from stops. With this amount of strain placed on the motor though, why doesn't it just stall out when idling? The motor doesn't stumble or strain when cycling the A/C on/off while idling. What's the deal? I've checked the gap on the clutch, and it seems to be within specifications. It also appears that this clutch isn't replaceable? I've looked at the different write-ups on this forum, and the videos available, but NONE of them show the type of compressor that mine has... The Triangle with the 3 circular pieces and the single bolt in the center... I've attached the pressure gauge from one of those auto-store recharge kits, and supposedly the system is topped-off. Does this have anything to do with my neutral switch? I've checked my Short Term/Long term fuel trims while idling and I think I don't have a vacuum leak, as they're in the negatives. I'm just worried that I'm going to jump timing because of the instantaneous loading that is presenting, or the A/C is going to catabolize itself while driving and having to replace EVERY part of the system. Thanks for your time, Greg -
I need to replace the clutch plate on my BRAT. While the engine is out, what else should I do? -
delete please
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Alright guys, I've been trying to figure out this issue on my own as well as help from several mechanic friends and TONS of research on the forums but it's finally requiring me to make a post. I have an 84 EA81 4wd GL. Came to me completely stock. Once clutch was replaced the clutch cable snapped (old cable what ever) I replaced the cable and it was still hard but shifted... For almost 300 miles. For those 300 miles I kept having to adjust it closer and closer until the TOB has to be grinding on the flywheel to get enough leverage to push the PP in. I thought maybe it was a malfunctioning PP I got so I bought an all new nicer clutch kit. STILL ROCK HARD CLUTCH I've read hundreds of threads searching the replies for my golden ticket as to why my clutch is hard as rock to push in. I've gone through and tested each component independently. Pedal>Cable>Fork>TOB>PP>Disk>Flywheel Cable routed correctly, no pressure unless trying to actuate clutch. Pressure plate just too hard to actuate! Only thing I can think of is something wrong with the fork or TOB (which is new and properly greased) My entire body weight pressing against the clutch pedal is ALMOST enough to actuate the clutch. There's got to be something simple I'm skipping over Out of the hundreds of threads I've had to of read by now, my issue seems to mirror the one found unresolved in this thread https://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/138371-hard-clutch-pedal/?tab=comments#comment-1164388
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I have a JDM SVX I imported from Japan that came with a dead transmission. So I am wanting to do perform a manual swap on it. Mostly because I don't have room between the engine harness and brake booster, and in the name of keeping everything as simple as possible I am wanting to go with a cable clutch setup. My question is since I am looking for a parts car so I can have all the parts I need in one place, and I am wanting to know which model Subaru's came with a cable clutch so I can narrow down my search to the cars I actually need.
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I just did a clutch replacement on a 1984 4WD GL. I replaced the rear main engine seal, and the orange gasket featured in this video It looks like the oil pan gasket is leaking, and also I have some oil in the clutch housing. Can oil leaking from the oil pan gasket migrate up into the clutch housing? The bottom of the clutch bell housing is open. I am hoping it can, it would be an easy fix. Otherwise, I am looking at fixing a leak in the transmission.
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Blast, double post. Moderator, please delete.
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Looks like the two sides could be joined with bolts. Repair, or replace?
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http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/gallery/image/3772-pilot-bearing-included-in-clutch-kit/ This pilot bearing was included in my clutch kit for my 1984 GL 4wd . . I did not take a part off the car like this... that I know of! The outside diameter is 16mm. Does the 1984 4wd GL use this bearing? I do not want to complete the engine installation, and then find that this should have been included in the assembly. Do I need it? More importantly, does my car need it?
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I am ready to put the engine in, but first I need to install the oil pump. "Keep Your Subaru Alive" says to not to use gasket sealant when installing the oil pump. The surface the pump will attach to is scratched, is "no gasket sealant" still the best course of action? Hopefully, picture below
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Here is a video: The new and old clutch plates do not look the same. Will this be a problem? mkoch
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I have disconnected all the stuff from the engine needed to pull it. I'm going to pull it tomorrow. I will replace the clutch, and the rear oil seal. Is there any other easy convenient thing I should do while the engine is out?
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My 95 manual trans Legacy has a bad vibration that occurs when releasing the clutch. It feels like the drive training is 'bucking'. If clutch is released carefully it is smooth with no vibration, but if a bit more torque is applied I get the bucking. I think it might not actually be the clutch since when released carefully it is totally smooth with no vibration. It's been tough to pin down since it only does it excessively when actually driving, more when starting from a stop, but also when shifting gears if motor speed is not matched to next gear. I've tried blocking the car or holding the brake while letting the clutch out to slip a bit under torque and I don't get much doing that. I'm imagining this might be a motor mount but haven't seen good access points to check that. It seems particularly bad when starting in reverse, especially if backing up a hill a bit. Any ideas on how to troubleshoot this or check the mounts without having to tear it all down? Thanks. -
I may need to replace my clutch plate soon. The clutch would disengage barely enough with the clutch pedal to the floor. I adjusted the clutch cable so it is now possible to press the clutch pedal to he floor put the transmission into reverse without hearing the clashing of gears, but... accelerating with the clutch fully engaged, it looks like the clutch slips. The RPM rise at full throttle without the expected corresponding acceleration. I last did this job on a Gen 2 Subaru in 1989! I think I can do it again. Please, I would like advice on... Where to buy parts, including the insert to position the clutch plate What other jobs should I do on the engine, as it will be out of the car, and easy to work on? mkoch
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Hi guys, I had my clutch replaced a few weeks ago by a subaru shop in town. I've got 1983 BRAT. I only drive it about 20 miles a week so I thought that the burning smell i noticed afterward was just breaking in the new parts. However, I noticed a slight puddle in my garage and went to investigate. My car never leaked any fluids before this. I could see marks where something had been dripping- noted in the pic. I've got a few questions.- Is it normal for it to be soo gunky? meaning, have I had a leak for a while and just never noticed? Should something be bolted to those holes? I also feel like it's been running a little rough in 3rd and 4th gear but I'm not sure if I'm just used to how my car used to run before the new clutch. Any advice or input would be great. http://imgur.com/a/206x7
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hey subaru folks, I have a 96 subaru legacy L 2.2l wagon. my clutch just recently started slipping and yesterday a burnt smell started to develop. I'm a new dyi mechanic. I have done jobs like struts, rack and pinion, new brake calipers, new tie rod ends, new bearings, new ball joints, CV axles, spark plugs... there may be some other things in there that i have done that I am forgetting but the point is that i wanted to give you an idea of what sort of experience i have had. All self taught through youtube and some help from a mechanic friend. I have never done a full engine pull and the thought is kinda daunting to me but now it looks like fate is forcing me to do it. I certainly don't have the money to take it to the mechanic but i do have access to all the tools i would need to do the job except a cherry picker which i would rent. from all of the videos that I have watched it seems like a pretty straightforward procedure there are just a lot of steps. my questions: -Is there anyway that I don't have to do this, at least right now? How long can i put this off for and what are the consequences? -Does anyone have any methods for staying organized and remembering what goes back where when its time a few days later? -It seems like I could do this job in theory but theory is way different than practice. Does anyone have any tips or tricks I may not see in a video online? What may happen to a newbie that I would want to avoid? -Anybody have any words of encouragement? Is this even something I should attempt? I have a mechanic friend I can ask questions too but he won't be able to hold my hand through this one. Looks like I'm on my own out in the shop. Is there any reason I shouldn't go through with this? -Should I do my head gaskets while i'm at it? I've been thinking of doing this for a long time. There is grease all over my engine and it has been pointed out to me that this may be early signs of head gasket failure. I already have an engine gasket kit but it isn't OEM. what do you think: return it/sell it or use it? -What else should I look at doing while my engine is out? Timing belt was done at 105k miles and now she is at 137k miles... so it doesn't seem like that needs doing unless it was just a belt slap job which i don't know of. Timing belt happened before i owned the car. whew thats a lot of questions. don't feel obligated to answer all of those... just the ones you are interested in. thanks for the help. -Aaron p.s. anybody in the grass valley CA area on this forum want to help me out? I ain't got much to give for the help but maybe someone wants to help for the fun of it. -
Hi guys! My subie needs a clutch replacement and I will do it myself. .... so I NEED YOUR ADVICE ! What clutch do you recommend? http://amzn.to/2iXQFqb http://amzn.to/2iBU0yK http://amzn.to/2iBPKiO Thanks for the help!! I will post pictures of how I did the clutch replacement. Hope it will help you later! My Leggy is a 1996 GL 2.0 SOHC Wagon Cheers, Fran -
I have a 2002 Forester 5 speed AWD. When accelerating from a dead stop, letting out the clutch pedal, it frequently shakes the car like it is possessed by demons. I combat this by revving the motor a bit and/or double clutching. It does not do it once the car is moving. Also, it does not occur when the car is cold and gets noticeably worse after it has been driven awhile, fairly consistent then but still somewhat intermittent. Once the car is moving there is no sign of it, even accelerating heavily in upper gears. No bearing noise. Clutch was recently professionally replaced. Crawled under the car to check u-joints and drive line coupler. Only thing I could find was the rubber mount in the center driveshaft bearing coupler had a little play when I tried to twist it (very little but enough to see). The shaking feels like it starts in the tranny area but quickly transfers to the back/differential area. Any ideas what is causing this and how to fix it? Thanks, Joe -
Hi, I have a 2010 2.0 turbodiesel Legacy wagon with 175k km that I bought one year ago. It has a complete service record and has been maintained on schedule from the same garage since new. It's parked outside and gets driven about 4-5 times per month. Lately it won't shift into 1st or 2nd at startup, or until the engine/transmission is warm. That's about 10 minutes. I tried the tricks I know from my old Land Rover. Double-clutching doesn't help. Shifting into 3rd while stopped and then trying 1st or 2nd also doesn't work (this works on a Land Rover with a dragging clutch). There's no apparent grinding; the lever just won't move. For the two times I've driven it in this condition, I've used 3rd to get going the first time, and once underway I was able to select 2nd, and 1st once I slowed way down. (Then I just left it in 1st with my foot on the clutch, so I could get going again). It can select all gears easily when cold if the engine is turned off. I ensured that the clutch pedal goes to the floor. The clutch fluid reservoir is full and clean. The transmission oil is full and black and apparently has 20k km on it. The air temperature is below 5 C when this happens, but last winter it never happened, not even below freezing. Is this a known issue with these transmissions or clutches? What should I look at, clutch or gearbox? What would you recommend? Thanks, Jeremy in Switzerland -
Hi, I know this question has been asked a lot on this forum however I aim to do as much research as possible into everything I do so I get it right the first time. I am on a fairly tight budget and would like to know a few things. 1. Will I be able to use the ej18 intake runners on the ej22 P2 block to get it to work 2. Will I be able to use the ej18 flywheel and clutch on the ej22 for the time being 3. Will the transmissions bolt up or will I need to install a different transmission 4 can I just get rid of the knock sensor and it (ej22) run fine Kind regards~Abid -
Hey everyone. I posted a while ago about my car suddenly losing clutch control and not being able to shift gears. Someone suggested I needed to bleed my clutch lines. I just got back from doing this with my father in law, we removed the slave valve, compressed it with a clamp and successfully managed to bleed/milk the line and get new clutch fluid (DOT3) into the lines etc. However, I still have no ability to put the car in gear. The clutch will depress, but the gear stick simply will not move and 'slot' into gear. I'm not a mechanic by any means and have no idea what to do. The slave cylinder doesn't appear to be broken (we took out the pin and its still intact), there a little 'flap' that the slave cylinder pushes, it seems as though it just needs to be 'pushed' more for the gears to engage, but I'm not sure how to fix that. Any help would be most appreciated! Attached is a photo of the slave, pushing against the flappy thing (techy term) , does it look alright?
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Hey subaru forester community I need some help! I have a 1999 subaru forester s in good condition but I'm recently having some issues with the clutch. I've only had the car for about 8,000 miles and when I bought the car I noticed the catch point was rather high on the car but I didn't notice any signs of the clutch slipping/going out. Recently it seems the clutch is slipping and in need of replacement but i need a proper way to confirm this theory before I dump money into it. I was told that if I can in second gear on a flat road start from a stop with out stalling and with my foot of the gas it ment the clutch was bad. I tried this test and I could in fact get the car rolling rather easy by just slowly releasing the clutch. Not sure if this is valid test though? Additionally I'm curious if it is possible if the high catch point is normal for an oem subaru forester clutch and if its safely adjustable so I can make the catch point almost on the floor either on my current clutch or a replacement. Also how I could do this? Thanks for any help I can get; theese forums rock! -
This is my first Subaru, and I love it. It's a '98 Outback with 5-sp manual, about 165,000 miles. Last night I was up-shifting through a corner, driving normally, and suddenly the car just stopped moving. There was no noise or anything. Now I can shift through all the gears without using the clutch, with the car running, and it just sits there. I'm used to clutch failure modes where the clutch slips, or you can't shift, but I've never seen this one. I don't know whether to think it's the clutch, transmission, transfer case, or what. I haven't dumped the codes yet. Anyone ever experience this? Wayne West Michigan -
I replaced my outback clutch about this time last year with an after market clutch. Once the engine is warm and only once it gets warm the clutch chatters when taking off from a complete stop. It shakes the motor and the entire car. It has done this from the day I put in the new clutch I just learned how to clutch it to prevent it from happening severly. Not sure if this is a clutch or flywheel problem. Any ideas?
