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Showing results for tags 'conversion'.
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Take a look at this one frankenmotor in a 1991 Miata called the Miata One. miataone.com
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G'day mates. I came across a Japanese Issue EA82T with spider inlet system at a sale and could use some help with it. I'm wanting to replace an Aussie issue MPFI. and have some questions: (BTW, I have the right subframe for it). Turns over ok and has 165 psi in each pot. 1. Has anyone done this already that can point me at a thread? 2. It looks to be arranged for an intercooler and there is no bracket for the firewall stabilizer. Is the stabilizer not used on this motor or is there some other bracket I'm missing off the gearbox? 3. The engine harness has its plugs cut off - I'm goin to have to extend or modify the existing one. Can I run it off the existing CPU (sans dash 'turbo light') ? 4. The TPS and temp vac swithing are in different positions. Would the colour codes be the same? Just trying to do some homework before I do the swap. Worst comes to worst, I'll just swap the Inlet system but I think the later one would be better if it could be wired up. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Bert. -
I have a JDM SVX I imported from Japan that came with a dead transmission. So I am wanting to do perform a manual swap on it. Mostly because I don't have room between the engine harness and brake booster, and in the name of keeping everything as simple as possible I am wanting to go with a cable clutch setup. My question is since I am looking for a parts car so I can have all the parts I need in one place, and I am wanting to know which model Subaru's came with a cable clutch so I can narrow down my search to the cars I actually need.
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Got my hands on a 92 brumby. And looking at converting the engine transmission drive train. Adding abs cruise control and power steering from a newer subaru (impreza liberty) I'm hoping I can just transfer it all over from the donor car straight into the brumby. A few questions brumbys are fed unless 4wd is engaged... right? If so how would I make it always awd during the transfer. Are there any modifications/adapters I'm gonna need ? Any information and knowledge is appreciated. And I will keep this updated with my progress. I know its doable.
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Here is another use of the Ej251 with phase 1 Heads (Frankenmotor) in a 1991 Miata called the miataone.com.
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So i have a 1998 Subaru conversion from gears to an forester version 6 automatic. I bought the car that way and it ran very well for 3 yrs. changed the head and block last weekend, used the same transmission - thought the converter did give a little problem to go in - the head of the shaft had widened a bit. anyways .. it's all fixed in, started ,, gone for a test run & the gear is stuck in 3. it's not changing. and the power light keeps blinking. need some help ! -
I want to upgrade the brakes on my brumby to wrx brake for two reasons, to get the much better performing brakes, and to change to a more common stud pattern. I know in Australia we used to have the crossbred kit, but these aren't made anymore so i'm just wondering if globally there are any other kits or if someone has a simple solution. Thanks.
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As the title says, I'm curious as to what rim/tire combinations are available if you're running a stock height Loyale. I've read the Official 6-Lug Re-Drill Thread, but most of the posts on there seem to be related to cars with lifts. Pictures would be very appreciated! Thank you! -
I'm getting my car ready for a long cross-country drive (mostly cosmetic things and getting it to my standards) The biggest thing I have to do to it is repair the air conditioner system. Here's the deal: I got into an accident and destroyed my condenser coil that sits in front of the radiator and all of my R-12 coolant blew out. What I want to do is get a new condenser and convert the system over to R-134a instead of pulling R-12 out of old window air conditioners at the junk yard. There is a lack of parts that I need. My uncle tells me I'll need a dryer to clean all the moisture out of the open lines. And I also need a condenser coil. The online retailer that I've been going to for parts to my car does not carry condenser coils. There are 2 at my local auto parts junkyard, what is the consensus to using junkyard aircon parts? Would it even be worth it? Are there any condenser coils from other cars that would fit in my car with little to no modification? Like how certain Nissan Maxima alternators fit? Looking online the very few retailers that do carry those coils are asking way over $100 for them. How difficult is switching an old system over to 134a? Is it reliable? I don't expect it to reach negative 40 in the car on a 120 degree day. I'd like to know how much refrigerant oil to put into my OEM compressor, and are there any brands that I should stick to? I read in another topic that NAPA sells universal 134a conversion kits so i'm probably going to do that. Anyway thanks for reading and thank you for helping me out!
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Many of us have done or are interested in upgrading our factory carbs to the Weber 32/36. But there is a challenge in fitting the electric choke version to our EA82 motors with the P/S reservoir right up front. Some have claimed they were able to dent in the back of this reservoir with out any ill effects. However I found a few comments made over the years stating that the electric choke wanted to intrude on the P/S more than a ball peen hammer can address. I am among this group. After installing the Weber/Redline adapter plates I found that the front of the electric choke wanted to be so far forward it would almost be touching the reservoir mounting bolts. There was no way I could bash in that much of the reservoir without causing big troubles. So I decided to install the Weber backwards. This of course caused a problem with routing the throttle cable. Once I found the best path the factory cable was not long enough to reach. So I made one. The parts I used were Brake cable from a road bicycle (think Tour de France) These have a similar ball end that you need. Universal motorcycle throttle cable kit (5' housing and assortment of fittings) http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00O1C2L7S?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00 Old factory Subaru throttle cable Here you can see the different parts to make the throttle work. After cutting the universal throttle housing to length I re-crimped the Subaru factory adjuster to it. You can also see that I am using the Weber linkage instead of swapping the Subaru cam. I was unable to get the secondary to open with the Subaru cam link so I tried the Weber and it worked on the lowest hole. You can see that the ball on the bicycle brake cable is smaller but it is still large enough to work This is the grommet that captures the ball end of the cable to the gas pedal The factory hole in the Weber cable location bracket was to high and was causing binding, so I drilled a new one to keep it level with the throttle linkage. The universal housing slid snuggly into the grommet in the firewall. I routed the cable low past the distributor and under the intake manifold. I continued it under the Alternator out the front and under the lip of the P/S reservoir. There is plenty of clearance from the belts and pulleys no worries. I really don't like the small air filter that comes with the Weber. I don't see these things doing a very good job on dry dusty dirt roads. So I went down to the junk yard and pulled the air filter box off a similar year EFI engine. The air box bolts right into the carb engine bay. I am tracking down the parts to make this work with the Weber. The benefits will be better filtration and it will be easy to find replacement filters when needed. I will update this post with pictures when it's complete. I am using an aluminum air intake adapter on the air box. The hole in the EFI air box and the adapter are both 3" in diameter. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HG7D56G?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00 I also advanced the timing to 12 deg while doing this conversion. I might advance the timing a little further.
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What parts do I need to get to do a rear disc brake conversion on my 88 GL 4wd wagon? Any input would be helpful. Also is there a thread somewhere on how to drill hubs to the 4 x 114.3 pattern?
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Hey folks, I'm trying to get some ideas to help diagnose my shifting woes. About ten years ago I swapped in an EA82 D/R 5 speed into my EA81T wagon using EA82 clutch parts and EA81 pedal parts. It shifted decently, but shifting into reverse was usually a little grindey if you were too quick. The clutch cable clevis and clevis pin were SEVERLY worn, and I thought that replacing these parts could help alleviate my shifting troubles. Fast forward to August 2014. I've refurbished the wagon to use in my wedding and have installed the following parts: Lightened EA82 flywheel (with shims for the bolts), XT6 clutch kit, a NOS EA81 MT pedal bracket, NOS clutch pedal & clevis pin, NOS EA81 clutch cable. Unfortunately, the shifting/clutching has become even worse. I have almost ALL the free play adjusted out of the clutch system (I left maybe 1-2mm for thermal expansion) and yet, I can barely get the shifter into gear. If the car is at a dead stop, I have to shut off the engine before shifting into first gear or reverse, or heel-toe into first coming up to a stop sign (Accompanied by a bang and judder as the shifter is forced into gear). I'm worried that my lightened flywheel may now be too thin, or my clutch release fork might be bent/damaged. Does anyone have any ideas to help fix this? -
I have an EA81 hardtop coupe that is fwd, and my front wheels are shot, as well as having bald tires. I have a pair of 5 lug wheels just sitting around, so i was wondering if it was possible to convert the rear to a 5 lug. It has drum brakes in the rear. Plus, I think that it would be pretty sweet.
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Ok so I am considering putting a five speed in my wagon but I have no knowledge whatsoever about transmissions so I have quite a few concerns. 1. Is it even possible to put a 5 speed in an EA81 with Dual Range? 2. Will I have to alter my clutch since it is a different trans? 3. THE BIG QUESTION! How much would it cost (assuming I put it in myself) If everything else pans out this could be the defining factor as i am on a strict budget. 4. Anything else that I should know assuming one can even install a 5 speed in an 84 Wagon Thanks all! -
Overview: If your stock carbureted Subaru EA engine feels Gutless, slower than it used to be, and some times, it overreacts during acceleration and sounds louder while your subie runs like a bat out of hell, and the Hitachi Carburetor has a Vacuum Operated Secondary (high) Stage; I Bet that the Vacuum actuator that activates it, is failing. Even with non failing vacuum activated secondaries; I've made Mechanical Conversions on those carburetors, always with Great Results. The Difference between the Vacuum operated and the Mechanically operated Secondaries (high) Stages, lies in the Moment for Reaction, and how the engine reacts to your acceleration behaviour; let me explain: In the vacuum operated carbs, the Secondary (high) Stage which gives the "Power", will work depending on the engine's vacuum; which depends on RPMs, and thus means that it will work accelerating indirectly; while on the Mechanically operated carbs, the "Power" is always there, to react at your very will, each time you press the Gas Pedal, and thus means that the acceleration is Directly. The mechanically activated secondary (High) stage on the Weber carburators and its Robust, pure smart simplicity, are the main factors why a Weber Carb is super desirable on the Carburated EA engines; it also helps you to get rid of tons of unuseful things from the crowded engine bay... on those states in USA with not too restrictive laws, regarding pollution control. But if you can't afford a Weber carb, or don't want to do ~► the Weber Carb Swap Job, then a Mechanical Conversion on your Hitachi Carb will help your ride to be more reactive to your accelerating behaviour. There is absolutely No Downsides with such Mechanical Conversion on the Carburator, if it is Done properly. How to do the Mechanical Conversion: Prior to explain that, I must say this: If you really don't understand and don't have too much mechanical experience, then I kindly suggest you to Ask to a Qualified Mechanic with Knowledge / Experience in Carburetors, to do that Mechanical Conversion for you, instead of trying it by yourself; because to instal a badly assembled / damaged carb, could be pretty Dangerous in many different ways, so Be Careful! (Disclaimer: Use all the info I post, at your own Risk) Basically talking, the Mechanical conversion is done at follows: ► Remove the Vacuum actuator attached to the secondary (High) Stage, along all its hardware, ► close any open threads with screws; ► then attach a piece of hard, inox wire, firmly secured to the mechanism that opens the primary (low) stage Butterfly, which is directly connected to the accelerator plate, (in the other side) where the accelerator cable goes. ► Then, Twist that wire giving to it the shape of a Hook or a curved finger that wanna pull something, in order to let the primary (low) stage butterfly, to touch and move the mechanism that moves the Secondary (High) stage Butterfly, just after the primary (low) has been moved and it reached around its Half (50%) opening. You must "Calibrate" that movement on the Secondary (High) stage, by twisting the Wire, in order to achieve Full Opening of Both Butterflies when the Accelerator Plate is at fully acceleration (Maximum) which equals to the Gas Pedal being floored, and also the Secondary (High) Stage butterfly shall remain completely closed, during the first half movement from the primary (low) stage butterfly. Let me Show you a Short Video that Demonstrates how it Works: Here is an easy Repair guide for those Hitachi Carburetors, plenty of pictures (Not mine, Found it online) Download it here: ~► Hitachi 2 Barrel Carburetors Visual Repair Guide If you find useful information here, let me Know by hitting the "Like" Button. Kind Regards.
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Okay, I'll have to add pictures soon, but, I just completed the conversion to make my FWD DL become 4WD. If there's any interest in this, I'll post up pictures and a description/ instructions for the build and the best methods of afroengineering it all together. Until then, I'm going to take a shower and if anyone cares I will post up the build. I've attached a photo of the car which received the work.
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Picked up this straight body 74 Super Beetle a couple years back for the bugaru project.
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Hey guys, I need insight. I have a 1980 subaru leone circle headlight model), and i despise the current 1.6L carby, and would really love to make the car a crazy sleeper, with some sort of OLDISH wrx, or wrx STI engine. Can anyone please help me, or has done something like this in the same year model, because i know that the models after the 1980 are very different. please help ASAP
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So i guess this is my pre-build thread to see peoples ideas and any possable tips reguarding the restoration phase of the brat. my brat unfortunatley needs a lot of body work. however i found a very clean 85 GL hatch that i can take just about the whole front end off of. end product will hopefully have a wrx/sti driveline (or maybe something a bit more valuable, but that all depends on if i can find it). the GL will likely recieve the brat's current driveline which would be an upgrade from 2 wheel front to 2/4wheel dual range. the brat literally has all the rust spots you would expect froma neglected brat (though the frame looked good last i checked). any tips on body repair for the rear end (in the bed and the rear sill that almost doesnt exist anymore) and people that might be selling the bed chrome for a 2nd gen as mine is in questionable condition.
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so, as my topic says, im going to be modding my brat into a little rally beast. Im already looking for needed replacement parts such as hood, fenders, grill, rear bumper, etc. mostly cosmetic. but im still planning out the major modifications. One of the first things on the long list of modifications and repairs needed is an engine (well..actually an entire drive system, but engine being the focal point) for the much needed increase in power. im thinking the system from a late 90's impreza; ej25 motor, manual transmission, awd. actually, let me take a step back and just lay out the basic overall idea for the project. basically i want an every day driver that i can also go play in the sand with . cosmetically i want it to look like a factory soup up. very simple black body with white accents. mechanics is a who different story. im going to be building it for aggressive offroad use, so a small lift and slightly larger tires is in order. and an engine with much greater power; more specifically torque. any ideas on what engine or what vehicle to steal the drive system from? or any other ideas or tips? i will post pictures shortly, but considering im not in the same state as my brat at the moment, i only have pictures from earlier this year
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so ive been looking into dependability of my ea82t, and was wondering if anyone has ever used the ea82t dual intake mpfi heads for a dual 2 barrel carb set up obviously would require mods to distributor and fuel system, but would it be worth the conversion for the dependability of being carbed instead of turbocharged
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So im going to be swapping the drive system in my brat with one from an early 2000's wrx, and im currious how difficult a certain modification would be. i would like to keep the abiloity to select on the fly 2wd and awd, so it would be a slurr of a 4wd system and an awd system. is this a feasable thing to attempt?
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So i just bought a new gl wagon because i was given a price i could not refuse for a car that was worth double if not triple what i paid. The only issue i have with it is that it does not have 4wd which is a total bummer. Is there any way to convert this beast of a car to 4wd? im planning on lifting it already so the clearance shouldn't be an issue but please correct me if i'm wrong
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Inhreited the Brat from my step-dad who bought it about 10 years ago. getting ready to turn it into a little rally beast. plenty of rust in all the common brat rust spots (plus a rather odd one on the underside of the hood), but shouldnt be too hard to fix. hard part is gonna be the drive system swap
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Howdy folks. Here's my recently acquired GL. The peeps who had it before me did a little work. This GL makes my fourth Subaru. This is the first one to be lifted, as opposed to the obvious alternative - lowered. So, it's new. To me. '87 GL frame and body. '95 Impreza 2.2. '91 Legacy tranny. 4" SJR lift. Raked. The underbody LED kit was included in purchase. The Weapon-R intake I've had for a number of years. I originally purchased it for a Legacy.... That Legacy was totaled. Held onto it for three years, put it right back where it belongs. An EJ22. I've a number of things to do to this GL. The list is adding up. The most crucial being the front rotors/pads. Upon trying to switch out pads, I discovered the rotors were so far worn, that the created outer lip is preventing the caliper from being removed. I'll figure out what to do there. Also, the bumper. Does anyone have any info on it? I've seen three Subies so far here on USMB with the same bumper. Where'd it come from? Company? Individual? Anwho, if I have any questions... I know who to ask. Or where, rather. This is BoxerRebellion (a.k.a. Evan) signing out. Talk with you all soon. Cheers. -Let's hit T-Line. Now.
