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My 1969 Mercury Comet Sports Coupé, Today Reaches its first 40 Years of Non-Stop Work & Run History ... ... My Mercury has been Part of the Family since New, my Dad purchased it on Spring, 1969; and I came on it the day I was Born in 1975 ... After lots of Family Memories and Tons of Photos, Travels Videos, etc, Together; makes this MuscleCar to be a True Part of the Family, is somehow like my "Brother" ... I Named it "Herbie" when I was Child... so many Memories together makes this classic, Priceless! Now after 40 years and more than three full Turns (and counting) on the Odometer, it still Runs like a Champ! Here you can See "Herbie" next to my Former White Wagon, which Now is Modified and known as the "BumbleBeast" Here you can See "Herbie" parked outside the House, and my Former White Wagon, inside the Garage: Here you can see "Herbie" Parked in front of my yellow "Loyale 2.7" (Now Dead - Background Story here) Project Wagon: Engine Photo: Much More Photos in my USMB Photo Album: Here ~► http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/user/13502-loyale-27-turbo/?tab=gallery I've upgraded it with Front Disc Brakes, a Brake Booster (Subaru, by the way), Chromed Engine Parts (Such as Head Cover, etc...), Under Body anti Rust Paint, Body Paint, a "Yamaha" Stereo, etc... Also I managed to "Made" (with the help of a Friend who owns a Metal Casting Factory), a Piece for the Engine: The Water Inlet (Where goes the Thermostat) is now Made of Thick Brass, instead the Weak one that Ford does (Made of Manganese?), which somehow trend to get destroyed after a couple of years of use. It Runs Great on its Manual Trans and Being just 250 Cui (4.1L) 6 Cyl. is economic to Drive for a Full Sized MuscleCar Coupe. I Just Wanted to Share our Celebration! Kind Regards. ►Edited to Update the Picture's Links and Web Links, due to the New USMB's System -
I did a search, but most of what came back was about adjusting windows. I've got an EA82 coupe that doesn't like to fully latch the driver's side door. When the door is closed, you can push the trailing edge of the door in towards the body about a 1/4 inch and when you get up to highway speeds, the wind noise is pretty unbearable. I tried adjusting the striker closer to the driver's seat, but nothing seemed to change. I tried adjusting it outwards, away from the seat and still, nothing seemed to change. What am I missing? The 1987 FSM isn't much help either. -
Has anyone had any experience chasing water leaks into the hatch area of their EA82 3-door coupes? I have a feeling it's coming from the taillamps/trim panel, but I suppose it could be coming from the hatch itself too. Anyone solve this problem? I've got two coupes and they both enjoy collecting water in their smuggler's hatches.
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As of 7-26-14 I have bought this '83 GL 2Door Coupe locally, I couldn't resist for $900 Some info: EA81 with Hydro Lifters (Possible Calif. Spec emissions) Jatco 3AT FWD 3.700 Mileage: 75,745 The Undercarriage has some rust and a couple holes but is very fixable. Right now the plan is to get it running smooth, go thru it all, change all fluids and leave it be until Safariwagon is finished. Time for photos! When I went to pick it up. Got it home running on 18lbs of pressure on every tire lol. I've always loved the rear of these cars. Does this thing have Calif. Emissions on it? And yes, this is someones half assed attempted at replacing the radiator with one that does not have a built in ATF cooler. This will all be changed. Also working on getting some new Weather stripping. Loads more to come! -Tom
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I found these on ebay and they fit perfect. All i did was clean out the metal seal rails with a small flat head, cut the seals to length, then worked them in with the rounded edge of a pick. http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Metro-Quarter-Window-Glass-Seal-Insert-VS3/391537716170?_trksid=p2047675.c100012.m1985&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D38618%26meid%3Df40e18573b3e4b399d840be2d82131a2%26pid%3D100012%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D16%26sd%3D391524456322 -
The plastic C-Pillar window molding on my ea82 coupe is broken. (Number 37/38 pictured) I have to remove the A-Pillar/Gutter molding to get to it. (35/36) How should I go about removing these? Without snapping them, of course. Thanks for your time. -
Long time reader first time poster! I've begun a restoration project on a Subaru 1974 GL Coupe that has a 1600 engine, and wanted to post it here. And here's after I hosed it off a bit. Engine needs a bit of cleaning, and the previous owner put a Weber carburetor on it, but for some odd reason completely disassembled the choke system, so I need to fix that. Interior is pretty fantastic in my opinion, electrical is solid and there's only damage on the driver seat. I've been looking online and this car is extremely hard to find parts for, if anyone has any tips they'd be much appreciated! Just ordered new struts, rotors, brake calipers, brake pads and rear drum shoes, a back driver's side tail-light(had a small break in the original one, and the only other break is the front-left blinker). It sat for years, but a new battery and key-turn and the engine fired right up, sounds really great and has a small oil leak on the crankshaft oil seal. The muffler has about 4 massive holes through it, and will need to be replaced. There's a small flip-switch to the left of the headlight pull switch, and following the wire I found that it's cut and ends up stuck near the passenger glove box, is this aftermarket or should I investigate more? I'll be posting updates as I work on this car, my deadline is about two weeks from now, so I'll be posting regularly! The radiator has a leak at the base, can I swap it out for an 80s gen radiator, or does anyone have any parts connections?
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Heater switch, er HVAC was wonky when I bought my 87 gl. It required constant pressure to work the heater. I used duck tape for a while until it completely failed me. Upon pulling the HVAC line out, some of its "bearings" were loose because parts of it were melted. I pulled one from another car that appeared fine and swapped it. I also replaced the resistor and heater blower motor with brand new ones. AND GUESS WHAT?! It still acts weird, needing pressure or to be pressed just right to work when you let go. Granted all fan settings work now instead of only the 4th one with the original melted pos. Please, someone tell me what I am missing here.
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Greetings, This time I am trying to do my Best to help a Friend, Mr. Mariano, who owns a 1980 Subaru GFT-5 Coupé, which came factory with an EA71 engine that features Twin Hitachi carburator setup. Here is a Photo of his Subie: Here's a Photo of that Subie's Engine Bay: Photos of the Actual factory intake manifold: He is in the middle of the Restoration process of that Subaru, and he really wants to get rid of those hitachi craps that seems like now they're bad beyond any repair, he dreams about to obtain a single carb intake manifold that fits his Subie's engine and fit there a Weber Carb. He already obtained a 32/36 Weber and the Trans-Dapt 2107 adaptor, also he obtained a Single carb intake that was sold to him as "For the Subaru 1600" which is the EA71, but the intake was longer, so we believe it was for the EA81 ... and he already welded with aluminium the Trans-Dapt adaptor to that unuseful -for him- intake manifold, as you can see... By seeing this Photos and seeing the Position of the Starter behind the engine, on a side, I want to Ask (To be sure): ► is that a Fat Case EA71, isn't it? ► Does the Twin Carb EA71's comes with Reversed Valves as the Twin Carbs EA81's does? Here is a Photo of his Original Owner's Manual about the Valves (in Spanish): Words in spanish over the Valve's drawing means: "Exhaust Valves" while words in spanish under same drawing says "Intake Valves". The main Question could be: ► Will a Single Carb EA71 intake manifold fit right to this engine, or not? Due to the Lack of Spare parts, we were crossing Private Messages, planning to cut the Upper part of the EA81 intake, along the welded adaptor, and cut the upper part of the Twin Carb EA71 intake, and weld the EA81 part to the Twin carb EA71 one, without touching the Water passage... Sounds crazy enough, isn't it? Please let us Know your Ideas about that, and the Answers to our Questions, which will be Greatly appreciated. Kind regards.
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My 88' XT6 has these problems; - battery shows good voltage with tester, but dash shows lower voltage, I cleaned all contacts. - alternator gets really hot fast. - belt squeals every time when starting, the belt tensioner is stripped, where can I get a new one? - fan relays are all messed up, I have to put a fuse in the relay socket to jump the fan to run and pull the fuse out when I park. - air vents will not switch. - Tachometer sometimes is way off too high. - cybrid steering is shitty at low rpm, could that be the brushes in the motor, or low current from the alternator, belt also squeals when taking slow tight turns sometimes. any gurus with advice out there? I'm in the PNW anyone local? -
Hey everyone, I've been lurking here for quite a while, it really is an amazing resource of knowledge. After searching the forums though for many weeks and still not being able to find the answer to whether or not a loyale rocker panels could be cut to fit a 86 base model (EA82) coupe? Also could anyone point me towards a resource that'd show what body panels are with my compatible coupe? (i know subframe parts are identical across the board minus trim) -
So my dad posed a question to me, 'how many people do you suppose have an RX and an RS?'. This got me to thinking about how many (1990) RS were out there. I have seen one, other than mine. I had read on Wikipedia that there were 2600 RX made. This turns out to not be true. For some strange reason, LadyLegacy seems to have the ear of God, or at least Subaru of North America. She has written them questions and they actually answer within a few days. (Not even going to bother trying that with Chevrolet.) She asked them how many 1988 RX were made, they replied that approximately 8 thousand were built, when she asked how many 1990 RS were built, they replied 'approximately 500'. Well poop. I adore my RX so much I have found a piece here and a piece there to bring it back from the grave it was headed for. I haven't done anything totally stupid with it. Yes, I rigged an ej205 intercooler. The PO left a ginormous ugly hole cut in the hood, so I did mount a scoop to feed the intercooler too... it has EJ seats in it, but I have the worn out originals. My point being I can unbolt any changes and I haven't made irrevocable moves. The RS was a hand me down near the end of it's service life. The engine still ran but it was headed to a full overhaul. It had a long list of things that were simply worn out and needing replacement. I removed the SR5 and put in a DR5. It got lifted. It got rear disc and the 6 bolt. XT seats etc. etc. now it is getting very very rusty. I was perfectly happy to EJ this, I have been banking parts to do the swap. Now I find out they made 500? Yes it was an SR5, yes it does not have all the features of the RX, (no it does not have an LSD). Yes it was most likely an after thought for pieces still in the pipeline when the RX was discontinued... and it's so obscure no one really pays much attention to it. No it's not valuable in any real way... uh, which older Suubie is? I can't help but think I need to set it back down and NOT mod the crap out of it. I can't help but feel that maybe as much as I love the coupe style and the lifted coupe's absurdly aggressive look that maybe I need to find something else to mod and try to bring this one back from the end of the line. (one pic shows ONLY other RS I have ever seen, Super Brats? mine is the Rio Red one)
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I have a 1987 GL Coupe. It's a fun car, but, finding parts is hard. When I bought it, the passenger side tail light was cracked, which was okay. The driver's side tail light, as of about 2 hours ago, was broken because I was having too much fun on a snowy road and I may have bounced it off a tree. No real dent, didn't scratch the paint, just broke the signal lens off. (The actual brake light is fine, just the orange bit is missing). I'd really like to replace it, but, I can't find this easily. If someone knows where I can buy one or will sell me one, I'd be very happy! Is it possible to use the lights from a sedan instead? Even with a little modification? Or that definitely a no-go? -
Hi guys, Have recently bought my first Subaru here in New Zealand. From what I've read on Wikipedia, they changed the names for different markets, so I may have a rebadged Leone or Loyale. I'm really not sure, so I was hoping some of the experts here may be able to help. One of the problems I've encountered with this car is getting parts for it. If I go into an autoparts store and give them the exact model and even the numberplate to do the lookups off, every part that gets ordered in is wrong. When I ordered HT leads, they were far to short. Tried to order a distributor cap but the one that corresponds to my model in the parts book they use is a clip on, not screw in like mine. So I went to a Subaru wreckers, they gave me a cap that looked exactly the same, Hitachi and all, even off another Omega. But the width between the screw holes is 2mm too short, so it doesn't fit. As you can see in the pictures, the cap is in need of desperate replacement. I've seen dizzy caps on American websites, and I am hoping that if someone here can figure out what the equivelant of this car is in the American market, I may be able to buy one that will fit, using the make/model/year search on a site like this: http://www.partsgeek.com/mparts/distributor_cap/subaru.html I've included some pictures of the car, and the # of the distributor itself is this: 22100AA450 D4P86-01-A8206 A wreckers told me the last part (A8206) is a manufacture number or something, and is not important? Would love to know what you guys think, I'm in a bit of a pickle otherwise! Cheers, Logan PS: The car is running rough, hence me trying to eliminate the problem by replacing all the little things (spark plugs, HT leads, dizzy cap). If the cap isn't at fault, my next though it the fuel injection. If anyone has any input regarding fuel injection on this model, please speak up
