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Showing results for tags 'cv'.
Found 16 results
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Hello, Just a quick question. My wife mentioned that there was some clicking noise when turning corners and on occasion when going over a bump. I took a look at the cv joints and the front driver outer boot is split. From my repair manual and online if replacement goes well it's easy but issues can easily arise. Since this is our only vehicle I'm thinking I'm going to get a local shop to do it to minimise downtime just in case I damage something accidentally. To my main question, most places say just replace the whole axle (and the other side too) for the cost but then I keep reading that the aftermarket axles are junk. Should I have just the worn CV joint replaced, replace both front outer CV joints, or replace both front axles? If I can't get my hands on Subaru parts, any aftermarket brands to go with or stay away from? Thanks!
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Hey guys, it's me again Road trip was successful from Alaska to Southern California. Since I bought her in April, I've already put on 15,000 miles, including the road trip, passing the 250k mark. I've got to tackle an issue I've had over the summer to finally quiet down my front end. In May, I replaced both front cv joints, getting a new but not OEM part from Carquest/Advance auto (https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/carquest-new-cv-axle-shaft-assembly-ncv66011/20870575-P?). When I took apart the knuckle assembly, I remember having to hammer out the original axle shaft to get it freed. When I put in the new parts, they fit in loosely, but I pulled them through using the axle nut as leverage. The car sounded great after that, the axles and hubs were quiet. After a while, both sides started humming (like white noise) on turns, growing subtly louder as days, weeks, and months passed. I finally replaced the bearings on the passenger side at the suggestion of this forum. It didn't stop the humming, so I got lazy and didn't replace the bearings on the driver side. I did make sure the axle nut was at the proper torque. I researched on here some more, and read that when replacing the CV axles, one should replace the spring washers and cone washers. I found those parts OEM on ebay and replaced them. No change in the hum during turns. Again using this forum, I found that overtightening, loosening, overtightening, loosening and overtightning once again on the axle nut is one way to make sure everything is snug; that the bearings are self-torque-something-or-other, so over tightening doesn't burden them. The humming lessened when I did this, but never went away completely. During the road trip, both axle nuts backed off a tad, and were stopped by the cotter pins. I did the overtightening/loosening/etc bit three times during that 5k miles, and finally the nut seems to stay in place. I am still getting hums/white noise on both, but it's a bit louder on the driver side. I checked all four wheels for play, and the driver side had probably 1/8 to 1/4 inch of play up/down and left/right. The other three are fine. I took apart the driver side assembly to the rotor, and when I checked the spindle, it's just loose. I can feel the play in the hub, and when I push it, it can easily be moved out of the knuckle. According to installation instructions, the axle shaft should be pressed into the hub using one of those do-dads. I hate replacing the bearings, but I will probably go ahead and do that on the driver side just for good measure - but I doubt that it'll solve the problem since it is still happening on the passenger side. www.youtube.com/watch?v=ckAnENBIwBo Any ideas on how to quiet down my front end? Thanks again for all your input! -
Alright. How's everyone doing? Two days ago my front passenger CV axle blew. I was 100 miles from home. Started knocking, all that good stuff. No big deal right? Right. This lifted GL does not have it's original tranny, kay. As a rookie move, first bought a CV for the transmission, which came from a first-gen Legacy. WRONG. Returned it, bought a CV for the chassis, an '87 GL. WRONG. My car is up on stands in front of my place until I can figure this out. How can I identify and acquire the right axle??? The Legacy CV's outer spindle was too short. The GL's "receiving spindle" that connects to the diff. was too small by... maybe two MMs. Does anyone... Have any words of wisdom? I've swapped three CV axles in my life. Totally familiar with the process. But I've never had to do it with a FrankenSub. Ahhhhhhhhhhh!!!!!!! -
Please help can't figure out how to take my passenger right side front shaft outta trans????? Their is no pin thingy like what I've looked up just a circlip -
I've got a 4.11 FD ratio transmission to replace the one that's failing in my 2002 legacy. This means I need a 4.11 rear differential as mine is 3.90. I found a great deal on one that is limited slip from a JDM WRX with low miles, only thing is the axles are slightly thicker at the splines on the WRX. How hard is it to take the differential apart and use the axle-holder-spline-bearings (sorry, don't know the part name) from my old differential so my axles will fit? Is this possible? -
My How to Keep your Subaru Alive book says that the outer CV joint and Axle shaft are inseparable - but I know they're not as I have replaced one a few years ago. I couldn't find any advice on how to pull them apart so I thought I'd share how I did it. Not many photos sorry. It's kind of an afterthought. Feel free to add further advice - I might learn something about an easier way to do it next time. Also, I'm not a mechanic so my terminology might be a bit off. The CV joint is basically 3 parts: - The outer cup and axle stub which fits through wheels bearings and wheel rotor. - A star-shaped "gear" that attached to the axle-shaft (used wikipedia for this description) - A circular ball-bearing cage with fits into and pivots inside the cup. I'll work off the assumption that you know how to remove the inner CV Joint (technically a Double Oscillating Joint). The picture attached shows a split star-shaped gear (with the splines that fit around the axle shaft) and the clip that holds it in place. Note the groove on the left (inward) side of the "gear". Also note that the right (outer) side of gear opens slightly to a larger diameter. As you will see when fitting a new CV Joint; the clip is slid over the end of the axle-shaft until it slips into the groove on the axle-shaft (both ends of the axle-ahaft look the same). That slightly larger diameter mentioned above compresses the clip so that is slides inside the splines in the "gear" on the CV joint until it snaps into the groove shown on the left side of the picture. The bottom line here is that the clip which holds the CV joint on the axle-shaft is completely concealed! When the CV joint is attached to the shaft and the clip is in place, it can't be hammered off as easily as it goes on because the abrupt edges on groove inside the "gear" and on the axle-shaft are designed to hold the clip in place so the join doesn't fail! Hammering the joint off might damage the edges of the groove on the axle-shaft which might make the new CV Joint come loose? So here's how I removed it: With the boot removed and the CV joint at an angle and the circular ball-bearing cage exposed, I whacked it with a standard claw hammer until it broke. It's quite brittle and breaks fairly easily. Rotate the CV joint expose more of the ball bearing cage and repeat. Without much effort the ball-bearings will fall out and the cup can be removed. This leaves you with the star-shaped "gear" on the axle'shaft - held in place by the concealed clip described above. Not wanting to damage the axle-shaft by smashing it with a hammer I elected to use an angle-grinder to cut the star-shaped "gear" off - being careful not to cut right though and into the shaft! I finished off with a chisel just to be careful. I think last time I did it I just bashed it with a hammer until it broke though. Up to you if you want to try it. Installing the new CV joint is pretty easy. Pretty much descibed above. My new CV Joint came with a new clip but I didn't notice it was there until I'd installed it using the old one! Have a look what's in the CV joint box before it's too late!
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Hey there, I recently ordered some replacement CV axles for both the front driver and passenger sides. I measured the old ones and since they were so beat up I wasn't super accurate with my measurements. I purchased new Surtrack axles online, the number of splines matched up and the length seemed right. However when I got them at my house I compared them to the old ones and they were apx. 2" longer, I thought I would try them anyways and though maybe they will compress more with some weight and and pressure. I got one in and it is definitely to long. I can get it into the steering knuckle and through the bearing all the way and put a axle nut on it all the way and get the other end on as well. The issue is now my steering knuckle is being pushed too far out from the control arm and ball joint. Does anyone have experience buying new axles for this model 1985 GL Hatchback 4spd Manual HI/LOW 4x4 1.8 OHV? Every store online that their axle will fit and has the correct splines but they are all 27 13/32 - 27 3/8 and I believe I need something closer to 25 3/8 - 26 3/8. If anyones has any suggestions or advice it would be greatly appreciated. I am trying to get this Subie out on the Minnesota streets and lakes before the weather gets to warm! Thank you.
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After FINALLY getting my cv axle out of the front passenger hub to replace the bearings, the inner bearing came out with the axle! 'Tis stuck pretty good on there and I need some tips on how I can get it of without ruining a good axle. 87 FWD GL 3door
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Last week, I replaced the CV axles, ball joints, tie rod ends, and struts on my '87 Subaru GL 4WD. For some reason when I apply a lot of (engine) torque when the wheels are turned hard to the left, there's a huge clunk as soon as significant torque is applied. This baffles me, because I've taken it apart to inspect (again) and could find nothing wrong. The CV axles, ball joints, struts, etc., are brand new. The ball joints, strut mounts, hub, axle nuts, brake calipers, sway bar mounts, etc., are tight. I took the wheels off today and re-checked all this stuff. The wheel lug nuts are torqued properly and everything, and I also checked the strut mount screws and the nut that secures the end of the strut into its top mounting plate. The wheel bearings also looked good. They were smooth and tight, and I packed a bunch of grease in there before putting the axles back in. The car makes no weird noises whatsoever when I'm running down the road at 75 mph. It's only when I start a sharp left turn. At this point, I'm standing around scratching my head. Other than the clicking the old axle did (because the outer boot had a rip in it and a bunch of grit got into the CV joint), it didn't make the big CLUNK when I was turning. Anyone have ideas? Thanks! -
so recently ive noticed a weird vibration on the passenger side (right front) in my 87 GL Turbo wagon if i turn left at speeds over 50mph. it has a s/r part time 4wd 5spd. i recently replaced the cv axle, wheel bearings, and ball joint. and when i changed the axle i realized that the inner cv joint can move around a bit, what im wondering is if its a bearing on the output shaft or just that its really worn out. and how hard it is to replace/change it thanks everyone -
Hey all! Last summer I bought an 88 GL with a 2" lift that had just been put in. I was sketch about how that would affect the CV joints but decided to ride it out and see what transpired. Less than a year later I have replaced three, and am driving with two ripped boots right now. Looking at it what it looks like is needed is a longer axle shaft, and a longer boot as well because the boot tears where the angle is too extreme. ( brand new one been on less than two months ripped today. Real bummer). I don't want to take the lift out. Its part of what I love about the car, and the clearance is useful. But I don't know spoob to be honest. Where can a girl get custom axles? Does anyone know how I would make these? Can I buy different rubber boots that are longer that would fit and I can swap out? Are there slightly longer ones from a different model that can swap? Surely someone else must have done this before and figured it out. I know some people swap the whole set up from a different model to go to the other lug nut system, but I just have the custom alloy wheels and all the other parts are the original set up. Any word on this would be appreciated. I don't want to drop it, but I have to find a solution. Ta! Patty -
I have a 2005 llbean outback 3.0 and seeking experience, evaluations of the heavy duty axles. "Theimportexperts" have standard axles and heavy duty axles. Has anyone used these axles? Are the heavy duty axles worth the price over the standard and compared to the OEM? Do the heavy duty axles boots last longer? Are they better than OEM? Your experience is appreciated. Thank you Monk in NC -
My CV axle nut on my 85 brat constantly comes loose on the front driver side wheel and makes my brakes grind when I press on them. I have a cotter pin it, its the one that came with them when i purchased the axles. I have no clue whats causing it to come loose or how to fix it. It comes loose every few days. Anybody know why or how i can solve this problem? http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/118112-axle-nut-failure-point-reachedat-45mphhelp/?hl=%2Baxle+%2Bcoming+%2Bloose This thread seems to be close to same symptoms of what mines doing, except for the shearing and other fun stuff. i just need this to keep me going for a few more weeks until i can get my other brat running.
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Are split repair CV boots available for late models, '06 Outback PAX side boot is torn. Local Stealership wants over $300.00 to repair boot!I live in condo so can't get away with pulling a wheel to replace an OEM boot, but I CAN get away with cutting the old one off, and slipping on a split boot. CV isn't making any noise, so should be able to get away with simple boot repair.
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Are split repair CV boots available for late models, '06 Outback PAX side boot is torn. Local Stealership wants over $300.00 to repair boot!I live in condo so can't get away with pulling a wheel to replace an OEM boot, but I CAN get away with cutting the old one off, and slipping on a split boot. CV isn't making any noise, so should be able to get away with simple boot repair. Also posted in products forum -
I replaced the front passenger axle on my 88gl 4wd 5spd 115k mi. because the boot was torn and slinging grease all over the engine compartment and on the exhaust. I wasn't having any problems with the axle other wise(no noise, clicking,ticking). So I got a remand from autohouseaz.com and put it in. Checked axle to best of my ability before install and seemed fine, put it in tightened everything up and and took it for a test drive through my neighbor hood. It makes a click/tick noise in sync with wheel speed ONLY while accelerating. It is more noticeable turning right than it is left. Again, it only happens when accelerating. Let off the gas, goes away. Not accelerating and making a turn, no noise. Apply go fast(ish) pedal mid turn, starts clicking. Let off gas, goes away. I jacked up the front passenger wheel and checked for any play side to side/up and down/in and out and everything is tight, no slop. Spin the tire and no grinding or metal on metal sounds. Removed the tire and break/rotor, nothing appeared amiss. Removed castle nut and re-torqued it. Took it for another test, still same issue. After reading through posts here I realize i should have just rebuilt the original Subaru axle seeing how i could have a bunk re-manufactured one. Also I could have wheel bearings starting to go out. I don't feel like wheel bearings could be the culprit only because I wasn't having any problems before replacing the axle. Checked the brakes and they spin just fine, no warpage or anything stuck in it or the tires. My goal is to sell the vehicle because I just inherited a newish truck and do not need her anymore/dont have the room but I do not want to sell it with this issue present. I'm perplexed as to why this only happens under acceleration. Is it possible I didnt get the wheel bearings seated properly? the castle nut is ran up like thge drivers side so I assume they were properly seated. Does any one know where to get an front passenger axle rebuild kit? I would rather do the work myself and know its done right instead risking getting another crap axle. Also where to get the wheel bearings? Thanks in advanced for y'alls responses
