Search the Community
Showing results for tags 'dash'.
Found 13 results
-
Hi Again! I Have the Idea (Maybe the Project) of Change all the Backlight Bulbs of at least one of my Wagon´s Dashboard, to H.I.D White L.E.D.s (High Intensity Discharge Light Emission Diodes) Have you seen those? They look like the White Ones on the Base-right of this Image: They´re so Bright!, not like Common Leds, so that´s Why they´re Called H.I.D. L.E.D.s. I have two in the Map lights at the Roof, but They Aren´t Extremly Bright, I think that if a Common Bulb do 5 Watts Output, those L.E.D.s may do only 7 Watts Output, but I´m not Sure... Why Change the Backlights? ... Well, both my Wagons got the Yellowish Backlight (Found on the early EA82´s), instead of the Greener backlight Found on the Newer ones, so, it looks Like it is Just the Direct Light of the Bulb, with no Tint at All... and the Dashboard is so Pretty for that illumination. :-\ This is how they Look: So, the seven Questions are: Did a Brighter Backlight illumination be Harmful? I think I can use the Dimmer lights on L.E.D.s, isn´t it? is Possible to Change all the Bulbs for those L.E.D.s? Are all of those Backlight Bulbs, the Same? What do you Think About? Have anyone Tried somethin´ like That before? Do you think the Dashboard will look Nicer with Brighter White Lights, or I will just make it look Uglier? Shall I use other color than White? Finally, I must say that those H.I.D. White L.E.D.s, Looks like a Standard Neon tube´s Light, Plain White, but Near to the Blue... Any opinions / Suggestions \ Ideas will be Wellcome! Thanx! ► Edited to add Tags, due to the New USMB's system. -
the wiring sins of my forefathers
jimhickcox posted a topic in Historic Subaru Forum: 50's thru 70's
I've had my '79 Brat for a year or so and, as you'd expect, things occasionally go wrong and then I yell at the car with a wrench and then it's okay again, generally. Right now my biggest headache is a series of minor electrical issues, which for a while had my headlights not working, but since I got them on I've been mostly ignoring. My horn won't beep, though, and that's going to be an issue come inspection time in February, so it's time to deal with it. In my adventures around the guts of my car I've found lots of electrical dead-ends and strange fixes to issues that must have come up years ago, so this seemed like the time to trace out my full harness and see what's actually going on. I diagrammed out all the wires between the battery and the firewall, so now I need to get into the cabin and track the dumb wires around under the console. Does anyone have any sage insight on any of this? Particularly if there's a good way to get under there without making pulling the dash apart and reassembling a major project on its own? Should I just give up and run more wires as my whims suggest and leave vestigial cabling everywhere like people have been doing for nearly 40 years? -
Hello! I recently acquired a 79 BRAT from my brother, and it runs great with a minor exhaust leak. The car itself is in pretty rough condition right now, missing some parts... and I am having some difficulty finding a good source for parts. I am specifically looking for: Driver and Passenger Seats................ (Mine are ratty and extremely uncomfortable) Drivers Side Mirror........................ (I have the mount but the actual mirror has either been broken or fallen off) Drivers Side Door handle..................(Passenger's is in place but doesn't work) Complete Dash ................(or cover, the dash is very cracked) Accelerator Pedal .............(The rubber/plastic part is missing so it is just a metal arm) Tailgate .............................(Worst rust on the car is along the base of the tailgate, completely rusted through) Jumpseats? ......................(missing these, deciding if I want them) As well as some decorative paneling on the exterior. There could be more missing that I don't recognize. https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B4hYW5xQU7URNFdXMTFHTVdxSHc/view?usp=sharing Any advice would be appreciated, Thanks! -
I cant tell what the large center vent is on the dash of my 2017 subaru is. I cant hear music or feel air coming from it and the dash mat I ordered does not have a cut out for it and I looked through the owners manual and theres no reference to it. Thanks -
Hi Guys, Just bought a 2017 legacy, and like any new and proud mommy I ordered a suede dash cover but there is not cutout for the vent on the center of the dash. I tried to figure out what it is. It does not appear to be the cooler or a speaker.. What could it be? I do not want to cover it with a dashmat if that will do harm or if this vent will be needed... Thx
-
Hello, I am wanting to take out my Instrument Panel Pad. Has anyone ever did this? Is there a procedure for it anywhere? Thanks for any help, Mike
-
1996 Legacy L. After putting my car back together following a vexing electrical problem, I was happily driving the car around for 2 days with no issue. I still had a mess of wiring hanging out under the dash since I wanted to make sure the electrical problems were resolved before reassembling the lower dash panels. I finally secured the lower dash panels and wiring, did a quick restart test and then went to bed. This morning I drove the car for 20 minutes with all lights on, radio, phone charger when I noticed the Check Engine light came on. The car bucked a couple of times, then popped out an ABS light. I recognized this combination - I have seen before on failed alternators. I turned off all unnecessary electrics and tried to stay off the brakes (brake lights) to get the car as close to my work as possible. I noticed the fuel gauge was bottomed out and was puzzled why I could not see a battery light in the midst of this. I drove another 10 minutes in this state of tension knowing I was exclusively on battery power in Bay Area morning commute traffic. I managed to get the car into my work parking lot and was trying to back into my space when the car finally completely died. The additional 55w reverse lights sucked out the last of the battery charge. I ended up pushing the car into my spot for the last 10 feet. Throughout the work day, I replayed what happened the night before and concluded that I had not plugged in the left side of the instrument panel's connector. The battery warning light is on that circuit. Without that light on the charge circuit, the alternator will not charge the battery properly. Fortunately some wise folks on this forum have already discussed this at length....http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/143889-alternator-not-charging-dash-light-was-to-blame-seriously/ ! When I got off work, I quickly opened up the instrument panel and plugged the connector back in *dur*, and got a jump from a co-worker. The car started right up and drove home with no issues other than a Check Engine light that was an artifact of the power failure when the P0500 Vehicle Speed Sensor. This was reset with my OBD reader and we are back in business. Public Service Announcement - make sure the battery light works and your connectors are installed properly! -
So I have an 88 xt with the dreaded broken bezel and as you know it is very hardto find one in good shape. This is write up of how I repaired mine...... My bezel was broken in about 7 places. I just wanted people to know how I went about it and how well it seems to work. I used permatex plastic welder. You should be able to get it at any auto parts stores. First lightly sand joining pieces. Clean the joining surfaces with rubbing alcohol. Also clean back from the joint a little bit. I then mixed the plastic welder and applied it to both edges where the plastic is broken and put the pieces together. Then I put a bead of plastic welder along the seam Let it set up for 24 hours. One important thing I would like to mention is take your time. I repaired one area and let it fully cure before gluing the next pieces together. After all of the areas are fully cured sand the whole bezel and sandthe seams level. This is where I am at with the repairs right now. To now it has taken me 3 days. Tomorrow I am going to finish sanding and then wipe the whole bezel down with rubbing alcohol. Spray the bezel with plastic adhesion promoter Then I am spraying it with textured black paint. So far the joints are very strong. I have no weakpoints. I have squezed it with my hands and even twisted it and it was stout. I will get some pictures of it before I finnish sanding so you can see where the joints are as well as the finnished product. I would have gotten before pictures but I was unsure how well it would hold but now that I see it's holding really well I will get some pictures.
-
My dash clock gets dim and sometimes almost compleately gone, i go to rub the screen to "clean it" or very very lightly tap on it and it comes right back on for a couple hours, then starts fading once again, can i fix this? I can get another off of my Donor/Parts vehicle, but wanted to know if its a quick fix or if the whole clock needs to be changed, thanks. EA82 1989 GL Dashboard.
-
Yikes! I stopped to fill a low tire Tuesday morning, leaving my car running due to the cold weather. After filling the tire I got back in my 1995 Impreza Wagon and as I was about to pull away i noticed a distinct smell, like burnt plastic and fire. Then I saw the white smoke around my hands and the steering wheel. Holy Crap! I parked immediately and turned the thing off! I jumped out and popped the hood just to see if any smoke was coming from underneath. Nothing. Got back in the car and could smell that very bad smell. Luckily I'm no idiot. I called AAA for a tow and my Dad for advice. Two days later and my car is sitting at the mechanics. He said he found a 'melted reistor' near the steering wheel area. He then refferred to this as an 'airbag resistor'. I did my best to search this forum and some of the other forums on this site and couldn't find anything to match up. I have not been able to go see the car now that the mechanic has the dash open. I will tomorrow and take some photos. My question is, does anyone know what this could be? If there are other threads that might help feel free to point me to them. -
Im trying to figure out if the circuit boards for the analogue tachometers are the same or not. I have the turbo gauge and non-turbo tachometer that came with the car since the previous owner bought those at johns subaru junkyard since the digi-dash was replaced because it shorted and cought on fire also frying some other wires in the harness. The turbo gauge is a direct fit once you take out the oil pressure gauge out and it even has the three holes already made factory for the turbo gauge to mount through the plastic part of the tachometer but the holes are not in the circuit board. I need to know if i can just drill the holes for it or if i can mount it in doing some custom work to get it to work if not i have a feeling im going to put the oil pressure guage back in and track down anymore wiring problems while i have the dash out. Any chance somebody can take a picture of the back of their analogue tachometer so i know what im up against? Any help is welcome and thanks in advance. -
My cluster only has a speedometer and the subaru car HUD (4wd, parking brake, etc). I kind of wish I had a tachometer. If anyone had a spare cluster like this, I'm willing to buy it. Anyone know if it's plug and play? Would it be easier to buy an aftermarket tach gauge to stick somewhere on the dash? Thanks -
This writeup is intended for the Subaru Loyale / GL \ Third Gen Leone (1984 ~1994 EA82) models, however... ...many ideas shown here applies to other car's instrument clusters. I Hope the Procedures that I will explain here, will be Helpful for people who want to remove the Dashboard and instrument Cluster on their Subarus, without breaking the old plastics, nor damaging anything. Also I'll explain how to Clean and Retrofit LED Bulbs on the instrument Cluster and the Dashboard's button panels. Warning! The Procedures I'll Explain here are based in my Own experience with my Subaru "BumbleBeast" instrument Cluster and Dashboard, My Subie is a 1985 California -USA- version, Carbureted EA82 Wagon with the -almost- Clear (yellowish) instrument Cluster, Newer models has a green tinted clusters. The procedures I explain here are for the Left Hand Drive Subaru Models, with analog Clusters. Despite that different models came with different clusters' designs,the ideas I post here, shall work on the analog clusters... ...those Ideas and Procedures are NOT intended for the Digital instrument Clusters, that came on the Luxury GL-10 Models... ...but those also can have LED lights retrofitted, I'll show you photos in further posts of this Writeup. Important Note: please be careful when applying these ideas, especially the Right Hand Drive Subaru Models, which has Reversed sides. Disclaimer: Use this Ideas, and all the ideas I share on the forums, at your Own Risk! Prior to Remove the Dashboard's Cover and take out the instrument Cluster, I had sometime Looking for its Parts and Diagrams, Here... ...and here... ...and I Found this... ...Useful Diagrams... ...and Part Numbers... Part of the motivation to do this was also the Oil Pressure Gauge on my Subaru "BumbleBeast" because it was reading below the Low Mark. That happened when the Cable that comes from the Sender at the oil pump, accidentally got loose and its plug touched bare matal (Ground) around, it made the needle to go Up more than its Limits, stretching its internal coil, and since then, it Looked like This: I went to the Local Subaru Dealer to see if they had the Replacement, and they did, but they sell the whole Part from the instrument cluster, and it doesn't have the Oil Pressure Gauge, it was the LADM (Latin American Domestic Market) Specs version for the EA71 engined models, because it had a Lower RPM's range Red line: at 5.5K ... This is the Part the Local Dealer's salesman showed to me: and this is its part Number: So, I had no choice except to figure out how to Fix that Low reading Oil Gauge, and finally I Did it! ... ... Continue reading, I'll explain how, in the Followin' Posts. Since I was at the Dealer, I purchased three new Bulb's with Sockets, just in case I break a Socket, but those where Not needed at all. However, I posted the above picture just in case anybody needs its part number. After that introduction, I'll Start to Explain the Procedures in the Followin' Posts
- 9 replies
-
- 2
-
-
- dash
- Loyale 2.7 Turbo
- (and 8 more)
