Search the Community
Showing results for tags 'distributor'.
Found 20 results
-
Hey Guys, I've been recommended to replace my ea81 distributor in my 1988 brumby to an electronic distributor (if I can find one) Symptoms: resistance while driving - jolting movement - intermittent miss. Has anybody else had this issue? Im looking for the exact part to replace but unsure where to find and what exactly to be looking for. can this play in the shaft cause the timing to be off? Thanks in advance. Drew -
I was doing some work on one of my RXs the other day and had some trouble removing the ignition rotor set screw. After bumping the engine 180 degrees I found a better screwdriver and a better angle and was able to remove it. However, when I went to put the new rotor back on I could not get the set screw to thread back in to save my life. Upon closer inspection I noticed the set screw's threads were full of distributor shaft... Somehow this little screw had pulled the threads out of the distributor shaft... So I turn to you folks, what do I do? Searching turned up nothing, but this can't be the first time this has happened? The fix should be simple, re-tap the disty shaft or use a self tapping screw, but does anyone have a recipe they'd like to share? Thanks in advance! -
Hi guys, I was trying to get home last night and went to start my Leone but she wouldn't fire. It was turning over but not igniting and i'm just looking for advice on what to do/buy/try. I called the local road side assistance who came and tested a few things out. He did a light test and said he was 90% sure it was the 'Distributor Pickup', as the ignition coil had power and there was no fuel problem. I believe he also mentioned something about the spark plugs working, but it was pretty late and I can't quite remember. I'm not entirely sure what a distributor pick up is, but is it easy enough to get a new one and replace it? Or do i need to replace the whole dizzy? It's a 1983 Leone with and EA81. Any help much appreciated Adrian.
-
Hey Gang,well my daughters 1982 1600 2 wheel drive hatchback tachometer bounces ..? mabey 2 or 3 rpm's. .in the past i would oil the shaft and it was fixed. But here's still bounces..Runs great ,no change in the idle...any thoughts? its a on line aftermarket Distributor...Thanks ,The Old Man
-
I'm trying to start a '93 Loyale with SPFI that has had the heads off. The problem is that it won't start. It gets fuel - have seen the injectors spraying in the intake. The #1 spark plug wire fires a timing light so I think there is spark. The engine ran rough for a few seconds initially and now won't run. There have been a few ignitions when I hold the gas pedal all the way down thinking that the problem is that the cylinders are flooded. I'm sure I got the timing belts on correctly - but I will recheck. (Cam sprocket mark up when the flywheel in on the ||| mark.) What I am not too sure of is the initial position of the distributor. I followed the EA82 Service Manual directions in section 2-3 on page 26. I turned the crank to #1 at TDC as noted by the flywheel mark and the cam timing mark being 45deg left of top-center (Fig 44 of the manual). I aligned the marks on the distributor shaft to set the rotor to the #1 cylinder and this matched the #1 spark plug wire. When I insert the shaft into the cam housing with the "feet" of the distributor lined up with their final posiiton, the beveled gears cause the shaft to turn a bit in the clockwise direction. This puts it off the original position. Is that what is supposed to happen? What I did was inserting the distributor so that after it is in and lined up in the ballpark of how it is screwed down, the rotor is pointing to the #1 cylinder terminal. I used the timing light while the engine was cranking (not running, to test connector set), the timing was close to the timing mark at 20 deg BTDC. Is this what is supposed to happen? Also, I don't know where this idle switch is or what the test mode connector is. There are 2 connectors near the fuel filter that were disconnected and I don't remember disconnecting them. Both ends of the wires come out of the same wire bundle at the same point. Under the dash, near the SPFI controller, there are 2 connectors hanging down with nothing to plug in to. Suggestions appreciated.
-
Hello again. I ha e a ea81 1.8 engine sitting in my driveway. I removed this engine because i could not get cylinders 2 and 4 to fire. I did replace the engine head gaskets and cleaned the valves in headers and put it back together. When i installed engine back in car i was not able to get it to fire correctly. I have new wires spark plugs rotor and cap and nogo. I did pull the wires from cylinders 2 and 4 and did see a spark in them. Obly reason i know these two cylinders are not working is because the engine will have a terrible shake to it and by plasing my hand below the header were exhaust goes only one side was hot. Could it be that i have a bad distributor even tho i see sparks coming from wires 2 and 4? Thanks.
-
I have an 85 Brat that isn't getting spark. New plugs, new plug wires, new ignition coil, new disty cap and rotor. I pulled out the distributor and noticed the distributor shaft has about 1/8 inch vertical play and 1/16 horizontal play. Is that too much on both sides? Do I need to replace the whole distributor? Could that be why it doesn't start? Any info is appreciated.
-
I have an 85 Brat that isn't getting spark. New plugs, new plug wires, new ignition coil, new disty cap and rotor. I pulled out the distributor and noticed the distributor shaft has about 1/8 inch vertical play and 1/16 horizontal play. Is that too much on both sides? Do I need to replace the whole distributor? Could that be why it doesn't start? Any info is appreciated.
-
So i am prepping parts for my spfi swap and most of the links on here regarding the swap are broken or dead or lead somewhere else. I need to know the proper orientation of the gear from my ea81 disty on my spfi disty shaft, ive read about people consistently ending up "1/2 tooth off" and i would like to avoud that if possible. Should the new hole be in line with the original or perpendicular, anythin.. thanks
-
Hello everybody! I've recently picked up a 1994 Subaru Loyale for $200 - needed timing belts. I pulled the engine out of the car and did a complete gasket rebuild. While it was apart I noticed parts came out of the camshaft housing/assembly. The parts looked like some sort of oil pressure valve, a spring, a pipe, and a bolt. I did what little research I could and i believed i was able to correctly re-assemble the engine. Eventually got the car running, and I had a horrible ticking sound coming from the drivers side cam housing area. I read that it could be mis-seated rockers and that it could possibly go away with some driving, however mine didn't. engine died while idling and wouldn't start back up. I pulled the engine apart AGAIN only to find that my drivers side cam looks like it was never getting any oil, and seized. What would cause that cam not to get any oil and seize up? I have a new cam and housing ready to go in, but i'd like to make sure I don't have the same problem again. One other thing i noticed is when i pulled the camshaft housing off, oil was coming out of one of the bolt holes in the head. (where a bolt for the cam housing goes into) is this normal? I can post any pictures if anybody feels they would be helpful. just don't have any on this computer at the moment. I greatly appreciate any helpful tips, pointers and advice! I've replaced the following items. - Water pump - Oil pump (OEM straight from subaru) - Timing belts, tensioners and pulley - Full engine gasket set Thanks again!
-
Hi I'm after some help. I have a 1988 brumby gl 1800 and have had issues with the distributor. The first time it went I got it changed to a mechanical (that was the only option on short notice) and then it was fine again. Then about 2 months later it started stuttering and losing power and the mechanic who looked at it said it was the points and changed them and the condenser and gave it a tune. At the moment it starts and idles ok, not perfect, but when I drive her she starts to stutter and act like the other times just before the distributor failed. She seems to drive smoothest at higher rpm. At low rpm she really stutters and lurches along. Any advice would be appreciated.
-
Hi All, I have a gorgeous 1985 Turbo Sedan in incredible condition inside and out, but the car hasn't been starting for months. And a snowy Boston winter is when I need it most! Car can be seen here: http://www.checkoutthiscar.com/2012/09/pleasant-pleiades-83k-mile-1985-subaru_14.html I hate to see the car garaged and not running, and I bought this little mountain goat to use it!! Just to preface, this is my first post, though I've read every last thread I could find related to this subject. I must be missing SOMETHING, but I can't figure it out. I've been at this for literally five weeks and I feel like I'm at a dead end. Here goes... Car cranks but no spark at coil. Primary and secondary circuits are within spec on a new Accel 8140(?) coil. Coil reads ~12V at both + and - terminals. Importantly, the tach does not respond when cranking. I have tried 2 separate digital gauge clusters to no avail. Coil is connected as follows: black/white from distributor to + 12V from harness (black/white) to + yellow from distributor to - yellow from harness to - thick black ground from harness to - I have a loose plastic connector from distributor not connected (what is this?) I have tried 3 separate distributors. Original, junkyard, and rebuilt/tested from Advance Auto Parts. Same problem with each = no spark at coil. Tested all HT leads from coil to distributor and cap to plugs. All good. Cleaned all pickups on old cap and rotor. Tried new cap and rotor. Took off both fenders and tested continuity of all wires through engine compartment and under dash, etc. I cannot locate a fault anywhere! I've installed a new battery and have not checked the charging system since the car won't fire. I'm getting fuel and the pump functions with green connectors attached, and also as the starter is cranking. Pressure and compression are great and consistent among all cylinders. Timing is set properly, and rotor points at #1 cylinder when flywheel is at TDC. I'm sure I've gone through other systems and sensors over the past 5 weeks as well, but they're escaping me at this point... Please let me know if anyone has any suggestions for me. I'll be forever indebted! Many thanks, Andrew -
Hello all !!, My Car Is a 1985 GL 10 wagon 5 speed dual range 4wd with the HITACHI CARB After finding a 57000 mile ea 82 with good compression,I got it to replace my 262k with a broken block. I took it all apart, NO cracks between the valves!!. Took heads for resurface and valve job/seals, cleaned and re sealed oil pump and disassembled all lifters,cleaned re assembled, and pumped up. Put all new gaskets on re assemble.I had to use my old 2 wire distributor(see post )(HELP! 2 wire distributor). I ended up rebuilding the vacuum advance.MY PROBLEM IS the engine now stumbles HARD after 3000 rpms under any load.The engine will idle around 800,and rev up pretty good with no load,but shakes a little at idle,and it seems to "bind" a little when cranking,the timing is 8*btdc. I do not know whether to blame vacuum or distributor??I have re built the carb and cleaned it out real good. I used Indian head gasket sealer(it was old,but looked fine, it was liquid like new) for the intake gaskets and the carb base gaskets and spacer.As for the distributor,I COMPLETELY disassembled it to clean it and free up the advance plate.I did notice some wear from the counter weights on the inside of the disty housing,but it did not have any wobble or play I could feel.I have deleted the egr since this ea82 (1989) has no place on heads for it,and plugged the lines I cant figure out.I do not want to spend 250$ for a new disty if that is not the problem....How do I diagnose the issues? Do I need a vacuum gauge? I'm stuck................Any help is GREATLY appreciated!! Thanks for looking..............And I still have some extra parts I cant use from this '89 model.....1)Optical 4 wire disty w/cap ..1) intake for throttle body injection ..1) throttle body carb? injector ..1) Power steering pump. -
I have an 85 GL 10 which started overheating bad late last year.Pulled the engine to find after 262,000 miles, I had managed to crack the block at the center head bolt....I finally found a 57000 mile EA 82 from an 89 DL which looked REAL Clean. Now I am looking at it's four wire disty and from what I can tell I have no choice but to use my old disty in this engine.So I took my old disty out and began cleaning/inspecting it. The counter balances have rubbed the side of it pretty bad and the vacuum advance was stuck bad.I've got the advance moving again, but the diaphram still leaks some which will cause trouble I'm sure..Any Ideas on best resolution to the problem? Will these distys' interchange ? does anyone have a spare for parts? The springs in it are shot also....Any help is Greatly appreciated..Btw I think it is the Hitachi disty..its black with snap clips for the cap..
-
My EA82 wagon has a slight, random misfire. Recently, I've been pretty determined to find the solution. About 20,000 miles ago, I swapped the long block. Used my old distributor, but got new spark plugs (NGK BPR6ES-11), new spark plug wires (Import Direct 40975), new distributor cap (Import Direct 10-0199), and distributor rotor (Import Direct 12-0186). All parts I got from O'Reilly Auto Parts. Before starting the engine when I installed it, I accidentally hydrolocked it with coolant. I pulled the plugs and cleaned out the coolant. I also accidentally had two of the spark plug wires mixed up. But once I got it all sorted out, I was driving fine. This is when I first noticed the slight misfire. Flash forward to today: I've currently got new plugs (NGK BPR6EY-11) and new wires (NGK 9350) coming in the mail. My current spark plugs don't look abnormal. I think having NGK wires will make a big difference, but I have another issue. My distributor rotor seems to be making serious contact with the cap. There's virtually no up-and-down play in the shaft, nor side-to-side. There's some rotational play, but since it's supposed to be spinning, I don't see how that could cause it to do this. Could it be the wrong parts? What have you guys used for your cap & rotor? I figure what I'll do is grab another distributor from the junkyard. Get a new cap and rotor as well. Besides shaft play, how can I tell how good the distributor is? Is there a way to clean it once I get it home? I have a good feeling that this is what's causing my misfire, since my misfire seems to be very random. It's not necessarily on one cylinder, and it misfires at random times (once every 1-5 seconds).
-
I need a complete electronic distributor for an EA71 and a transistor box as well -
Okay... so i just swapped a low mileage ea71 and trans into my brat out of a 79 wagon, and put the old engine and trans into the wagon. thats all done, my problem is the distributors are different! the 79 is an electronic distributor and the 78 is not. the thing i want to know is, how do i make them run again? i cant figure it out... there are two wires that come out of the distributor cap on the 79, a blue and a red one i think, and when they were on the wagon the ran over the engine and plugged in by the firewall. on the brat, there is nowhere to plug them in. i was going to swap the coils and capacitors, but after tracing the wiring from the capacitor on the brat i found that i would have to basically swap the entire wiring harness... i guess my question is, how do you convert from running an old style distributor to an electronic one? somebody please help they are immobile until i get this fixed...
-
My distributor wont advance when ignition is turned on..when i manually turn the crankshaft counter clockwise (wrong way) , distributor turns, but when I manually turn it the right way (clockwise ) distributor doesn't turn. Took distributor out and it seems fine..turns just fine..so I figure it's something to do with the camshaft..before I remove the valve cover..does anyone know what could be broken?
-
I have an ea81 I know for a fact the vacuum advance on my distributor is bad. The problem is I cannot find a suitable vacuum advance to replace my current one while i send it out for rebuild(have to get to work) So whats the DIFFERENCE BETWEEN ADVANCES FOR MANUAL AND AUTOMATIC? also is there a difference between advances with california emissions and without? They're no advances available for my 83 GL brat but I believe a 83 accord will work but the only one i can find is for an auto trans and the brat is 4 speedmanual and also my daily driver til my machinist finishes retrofitting my other subarus control arms -
I just bought a 4-Door 1984 GL Wagon with 164,xxx thousand miles. it runs and drives well, save for the lack of rear differential mount bushings making a racket in the rear end, the engine surging because the distributor is very sloppy, and the oil dripping from the power steering pump. The power steering pump seems to be leaking between it and the reservoir, so I believe I should be able to take it apart and re-seal it, correct? The distributor just needs to be replaced. The bushings I cannot locate for the life of me so I am looking for suggestions on where to get them or if I should make them. The owner I bought it from had just replaced the shocks and struts all the way around, the starter, got new tires, new seats, rebuilt the tranny, and replaced all seals and gaskets for the engine. This is the first Subaru I've owned, and auto parts stores don't seem to have the parts I need to replace, so where do you guys suggest I look? And what else, if anything, should I look into on this car that could be a problem in the future? Thanks for any feedback.
