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Showing results for tags 'diy'.
Found 19 results
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Hi guys, I'm fixing up a 1990 Loyale, (after my 92 Loyale was sadly stolen and totalled) and I'm almost done except for one issue - the front wheel bearings. I've never had to do this before on a Loyale, typically I've just replaced the entire hub assembly. However it appears it is not that way on the Loyales. It's the ea82 no turbo, 5 speed manual with the push button 4x4. Could someone help instruct me on how I should go about replacing these front bearings? Thanks!!
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Hey, all, I’ve got a 2012 Subaru Impreza 2.0i and was wondering if there’s any way that someone could hypothetically help me with some instructions on how to delete my cat. I’ve got the base model, no sport, WRX, WRX STI or any of that. Your help would be greatly appreciated. -
Frustration! What’s the deal w/ the socket size for the 2018 Outback drain plug? 14mm is too big. 13mm is too small. Has Subaru decided to make us buy a special tool for changing our own oil??? Thanks. -
I'm an 09 Forester owner in Las Vegas who needs to do the head gasket job very soon. I would like to do it myself, BUT I really want to take the engine out, and I don't own an engine hoist or engine mount. So there are a few options: 1) Have a mechanic do it - I'd rather not do this option, partly because I want to do it, but also because I don't know of any good Subaru mechanic in the Vegas area (I moved from Colorado). If anyone knows a good mechanic in Vegas I would LOVE to hear about them! 2) Do it myself in the local DIY garage - this option would be expensive, but not nearly as expensive as having the dealership do it. Biggest problem with this is that they charge hourly, so I would be rushed to finish it, and I'd like to take my time (I've never done a head gasket job before). 3) Do it myself after renting/buying an engine hoist and mount. This would work except that I don't have a garage or driveway, so I'd have to take over a friend's. Anyway, if anyone has general advice on doing head gaskets, I'm all ears. If anyone has advice for where to do it in Vegas, I'd be very happy, and if anyone has an engine hoist or mount they'd be willing to rent to me, I'd be VERY happy! Thanks for reading! -
Hey ya'll while taking apart my IAC I partially broke the gasket (it's useable, but super hard and now part of it is missing). I was curious 1) if it's supposed to be a non-flexible plastic or if mine is just really old. 2) Could I use a gasket maker to make a new gasket for it? I'd rather not go through the trouble of ordering a new gasket and waiting around for it to show it. would be awesome to grab some RED RTV and just do it today. Not sure about gasket maker cause I've never used it before. I've been reading on here, but couldn't find any solid info. Let me know what ya think or if gasket maker would be okay which one ya'll could recommend. Also! check out that new prof pic. GAMES GAMES vinyl on the GL now for free via school....
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would it be possible to cut the oem header on the red line and plug it into a collector similar to the one in the image linked (see images) to do a diy cat delete then run straightpipe to a flange to a catback exhaust? my state doesnt do inspections or emissions regulations and id like to make it louder and slightly stronger i can't find a catless header for my car under $700 and if this will work it would only cost about $50 plus a reflash to keep the cel off
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Hello All! So have a new to me 2005 Outback has some issues will be asking for advice! Thanks to all in advanced! Also could use some friends with garages, know how, willing to help me out (LOL) in the Columbus area.
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Hi guys! My subie needs a clutch replacement and I will do it myself. .... so I NEED YOUR ADVICE ! What clutch do you recommend? http://amzn.to/2iXQFqb http://amzn.to/2iBU0yK http://amzn.to/2iBPKiO Thanks for the help!! I will post pictures of how I did the clutch replacement. Hope it will help you later! My Leggy is a 1996 GL 2.0 SOHC Wagon Cheers, Fran -
So this project isn't done at all yet, but I wanted to introduce myself and show off what I've been working on lately. For my Miata I tend to use quality parts mixed with DIY, but for my off road/daily driver OBW I wanted to keep it as cheap as possible to allocate more funds into the Miata build. Please let me know if you have any comments or criticisms. This certainly won't be a high weight loading basket, but this pallet is WAY overbuilt and can handle hundreds of pounds. The shortcoming is actually the Subaru's roof rails themselves. So, as mentioned, the DIY roof basket so far. I have sunk exactly $0 into this. All lights, materials, metal, hardware, etc. I either cannibalized off other pieces, picked up for free, or already had laying around. If you're interested in such a project, here's what I'm doing. We start with the plastic pallet. My friend manages a grocery store and let me grab one of the pallets from behind the store. So you want to cut out the center cross pieces. There is actually a piece of square metal bar that runs through one of the pieces. I used a hacksaw to cut it out and managed to save a solid 4 foot piece. Save it for later as you will use it to mount your spot lights on. Here you see the plates I made to cover the cross beam cutouts. All of the flat plating material you see in this project is called Polymetal. It is the same stuff they make the oversized "lot for sale" signs out of. Next, I chose to mount some side lights. They are 6.5" flood lights. These will be good for peripherals. I mounted them to a square of Polymetal, and then screwed the metal plate into the pallet itself. Next up, I made the wind faring. Again, Polymetal. It is actually set up to be hinged in case I need to pass a long object through the basket. This way the faring can move out of the way. Lights, wiring, faring. You can also see the stainless steel U-bolts I'm using as a mounting solution. Test fit so far. Rear view. Then you want to paint the wind faring. I actually am going to cover it with a "Subaru rally" decal I found online for cheap that is originally designed as a windshield banner. (The vinyl decal doubles as a cover for all the old screw holes in the Polymetal wind faring). You'll also notice that I cut the bottom edge to contour to the roof. And this is where I've left off. It still isn't mounted yet. The basket will house a shovel and a hi-lift jack for recovery purposes. It should have a higher weight limit than OEM because I've removed the factory adjustable crossbars, which had a pretty weak mounting system to begin with. I have four spot beams to add to the front and I still need to run all the wiring, but it's starting to take its final shape. I'll update later when I have more done. It's been a fun project and you can't beat free! -
A quick video on how to change the oil on your Subaru.
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I finally get around to doing the TGV delete mod to the Queen-B.
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Front and rear sway bar install on my 2004 STi
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Just a short DIY on installing Kartboy's front and rear endlinks.
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Alternator blew out last night, happened to find another super easy alternator upgrade. This alternator does not require a pulley swap unlike the altima alternator Mine came off of a 1994 pathfinder v6. But I'm fairly certain that any alternator from a Nissan vehicle equipped with a naturally aspirated VG30 (3 liter V6) will fit. Only modification needed is to grind the inside (sides facing each other) of the mounting "ears" on the side with 2 mounts. There's a bolt sleeve type thing that you'll want to grind flat. Then get a small washer and put that in between the bracket and the alt when you bolt it on. Not 100% sure if the non pivot side mount fits onto our Stock bracket, but it appears it's almost the exact same size. (my brat didn't come with that bracket, I use a bolt coming straight up out of the engine to push up the alternator). Wiring should be the same as the altima mod
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Hi Folks. I need a little help identifying part with round top to left of the radiator. (see pic) Recently rear ended somebody and mashed in the radiator wall. Now car overheats after 5 min of driving. The part to the left of radiator was smoking last I tried to drive it and when I tried to blast hot air, only cold air comes out of the vents. I'm going to try to swap the radiator, fans and unknown part myself. Don't want to junk the car, engine is great and frame alignment is fine. Any help or tips would be great. Thanks!
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I got a little mod-happy yesterday. It started with pulling my sway bars and sort of snowballed from there. I made a mesh sport grill by cutting out the old silver parts on the stock grill, painting it black and cutting some honeycomb expandable steel I got from the metal supply place. I also grabbed some aluminum to make a lightweight skid plate for the bottom. It isn't gonna support the weight of the car or anything, but it'll definitely protect against rocks and stumps in the trail. Tomorrow I'm going to the junk yard and pulling a grill guard off a Rav4 to see if I can make it fit on the foz. I'll let you guys know how it goes! Before After The front attaches to the stock threaded holes form the plastic splash guards. Bent it to wrap up the front and tuck it under the towing receivers. Attached the back under the existing subframe plate
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I am having some trouble with my 1999 Subaru Impreza Outback Sport. I was out driving the other day, simple point-a to point-b, and when I arrived home I put my vehicle in park and turned the vehicle off. However, when I took my keys out of the ignition and took my foot off the brake, the vehicle began to roll forward. I quickly engaged the brake and the car stopped. I took my foot off the brake again and the car began to roll again. I then attempted to engage the brake and start my vehicle. No luck. The engine would not even turn over. Additionally the gear shifter is locked in the position that indicates the vehicle is in park. Even when I put the keys in the ignition and turn them as if I were starting the car the shifter will not move from the park position. So here is what I have tried. With the help of my owners manual I was able to take the panels off of my center console where my gear shifter is located, I was able to override the locking mechanism that was keeping my shifter in the park position, and move the shifter to neutral. I attempted to start the vehicle in neutral. No luck. I moved the gear shifter back into 2nd and then all the way forward to park. I did this a few times and then attempted to start the vehicle again in both park and neutral. No luck. From here I turned my attention to the internet in hopes that I would find a clear explanation on how to fix this issue myself. No luck there. I got some clues in a forum similar to this that the problem could be either my "neutral safety switch" or my "inhibitor switch." I saw a few posts debating whether or not an automatic transmission (AT) vehicle, such as mine, did or did not have a "neutral safety switch." At this point I called my father and he agreed to come over and offer any help that he could. Together we were able to locate what looks to be my vehicles "neutral safety switch" and from there we were able to manipulate this switch by pushing what look like shifter arms in a clockwise fashion and this allowed the vehicle to start up. However, even with the vehicle now on, the problem persisted. I was not able to move my gear shifter from the park position. I overrode the locking mechanism again and moved the gear shifter into reverse and then drive but this had no apparent effect on the vehicle. I would really like to find a solution to this issue and do the repairs myself. I appreciate any advice or comments that will help me find that solution. Thank you in advance. -
After doing some searching myself, I find that there's some good info out there among the Subie sites on swapping newer Suspension components into older Subies. I'm looking to swap out my city beaten 98 GF8 suspension, so I've done some info gathering and have come up with a pool of useful links for your typical GC8 or GF8 swaps. Maybe you'd like a lift for trail trekking, nab some Fozzie struts (Forester). Most Subie compents will bolt up, if not with some coaxing. I'd like to hear from some members that have done these kinds of swaps themselves, on what worked out for them and what didn't. Ideally, I'd appreciate a first hand account of the work and end result. http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showpost.php?p=18820009&postcount=7 General info on modifying the suspension on 93-2001 Impreza's of all trims Which came from this "will this suspension part fit my x Subaru?" http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?p=18820009#post18820009 http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/118004-the-unofficial-how-to-lift-your-impreza-thread/ the-unofficial-how-to-lift-your-impreza-thread http://www.rs25.com/forums/f105/t70898-diy-strut-spring-install-pics.html diy-strut-spring-install http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1589951 Assembling front strut http://bbs.legacycentral.org/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=45743 Info on Legacy strut top hats and springs, needed to fit GD WRX rear struts into a GC8/GF8 (at least that's one route) http://www.rs25.com/forums/f9/t109573-forester-struts-impreza-gc8.html forester-struts-impreza-gc8 http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2279833 What USDM Springs/Struts Will Fit a JDM '94 GC8? http://www.rs25.com/forums/f24/t96397-04-wrx-suspension-into-gf8.html http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1980173 GD suspension on a GC http://www.rs25.com/forums/f9/t200479-02-wrx-front-struts-l-rear.html Saggy rear, wrx front struts and stock rear struts http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1429052 Trailing link install tutorial -
Step 1: Cut the wishbone out of you old ea81 shock. I cut the metal circle twice, knocked that off, cut out some rubber, used a hammer to bash the metal back and stripped the rubber off Step 2: Take new strut (both sides have to be eyelets) and put it in a vise, clamp towards where you're putting this, metal is solid up there Step 3: Lubricate. Put grease everywhere, inside the eyelet on the wishbone. step 4: Take vise grips and grap the circle part very tightly Step 5: Work the tip of the wishbone into the hole Step 6: Hammer the wishbone in Finished product is attached
