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Showing results for tags 'drive'.
Found 7 results
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I had what seemed like front axle problems. I can drive in 4wd, but not 2wd. The video explains is all. Parking brake on, engine running, 1st gear 2wd , clutch engaged. The castellated nut just spins! https://youtube.com/shorts/yYehV4mw_lg?feature=share What th... What's the problem?? -
Hi all, '98 OBW, 2.5L high compression build, 5MT After moving to Las Vegas, Nevada about two years ago, I've finally begun wanting to use my air conditioning system. Before moving down here, I had a mechanic pull vacuum on the system and charge it. I think he put in less than 2 lbs? It was a very minimal amount. Here are the symptoms that I'm experiencing. Blows cold while driving, and cool while idling. While driving, when the A/C compressor kicks on, there is a VERY noticeable decrease in performance... almost like I've instantaneously been loaded with a 700 lb 4x8 U-Haul trailer...It'll buck/shake the car slightly. I know I've read multiple times on the forum that the A/C can rob power, but this seems exceptional. The motor has good compression (in the 200s) and has lots of power when not using A/C. I am in the habit of turning the A/C off when accelerating from stops. With this amount of strain placed on the motor though, why doesn't it just stall out when idling? The motor doesn't stumble or strain when cycling the A/C on/off while idling. What's the deal? I've checked the gap on the clutch, and it seems to be within specifications. It also appears that this clutch isn't replaceable? I've looked at the different write-ups on this forum, and the videos available, but NONE of them show the type of compressor that mine has... The Triangle with the 3 circular pieces and the single bolt in the center... I've attached the pressure gauge from one of those auto-store recharge kits, and supposedly the system is topped-off. Does this have anything to do with my neutral switch? I've checked my Short Term/Long term fuel trims while idling and I think I don't have a vacuum leak, as they're in the negatives. I'm just worried that I'm going to jump timing because of the instantaneous loading that is presenting, or the A/C is going to catabolize itself while driving and having to replace EVERY part of the system. Thanks for your time, Greg -
2003 Impreza Outback Sport 5 speed I recently bought the car and it’s really fun to drive! Some noise coming from the rear end area above 30mph got me thinking I should look at the rear drive shaft universal joints and carrier bearing. With the drive shaft off there are definitely sticky spots in two of the joints. Napa, O’Reillys, and the local Subaru dealer all told me a very similar tragic tale: The U-joints are not replaceable and have no part number, but I can buy a whole new drive shaft for 500+ dollars. Not to be so easily discouraged, I removed one of the “non-removable” U-joints using a dremel and a steady hand, and took it to Napa and O’Reillys, neither of which could find a match in their stocked parts. Has anyone dealt with this before and happen to know of a U-joint that will fit in the 03 Impreza Outback Sport drive shaft? Thanks for any help! -
Hey everyone. I have a 01 Legacy Outback sedan that I just replaced the entire exhaust. The header is Emusa brand with unequal lengths. The shop only put one cat on and a Flowmaster muffler. I believe the pipe width is either 2.25'' or 2.5". The car has an awesome deep sound until you get to the muffler, and then it RATTLES. I took it back to the shop to have the hangers checked and they told me that the rattle was from so much air flow and that a resonator would help with the rattle. The real reason I had the exhaust replaced was because the Check Engine light came on, and Advanced said that it was either a bad cat or O2 sensor. The muffler shop told me that my O2 sensors were fine, and like I said, they replaced one of the Cats and deleted the other BUT when I had them check the computer, they said that Subaru's require 2 cats. My check engine light came back on after the reset and now it is shaking like crazy at stops with the car in Drive. Three questions: 1. What will get the rattle out of my exhaust? 2. Does Subaru require 2 Cats or do I need to replace my O2s? 3. How do I fix the shaking at stops with the car in drive? I am including the link for the Header so that you all can see exactly what I bought. http://www.speedyracer.com/headers/exhaust-parts/headers/1999-2005-SUBARU-IMPREZA-25L-RS-SOHC-HEADER-STAINLESS I have not gotten to do a lot of maintenance to the car yet. (I got excited with Income Tax, I know.) I have replaced the following: Air filter Cabin air filter PCV valve Fuel Filter (Octane Booster also) Synthetic Oil Change -
i recently purchased an 85 GL hatch and i found this in the engine bay. how bad for the axel is this? im rather inexperienced in working on subarus unfortunately.
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so i have a 1985 subaru GL hatchback, and the clutch blew. due to the variety of setups subaru made for that era, i have no idea which clutch to buy.its a ea81 with a 5 speed front wheel drive transmission
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My wife noticed a metal rattling sound coming from the muffler when standing outside the car when I was pulling into our garage - I checked it out and it turns out that a metal rattling/slight scraping sound lasting about 2-3 seconds could be heard every every 10 seconds or so when our 2003 3L H6 VDC Subaru Outback is in drive. What could be the cause? It seems to only be coming from the muffler - can't trace the sound to anywhere else under the car.
