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Showing results for tags 'ea82t'.
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Hey all, I have an 87 XT coupe with the EA82T engine and i'm looking at tuning options for finer control. I was originally going to replace the ECU with a fully tunable Megasquirt 3, But someone had mentioned using a piggyback Power Commander Tuner https://www.dynojet.com/power-commander/ It was one post, but he had said if you changed the connectors on this tuner it could be used on our early ECUs even though it is designed for bikes? I'm curious if anyone else knows anything about this or how I might go about it. It sounds like it should be easier and quicker than a full ECU swap, as well as giving you the option of unplugging it and running off the stock ECU if something goes wrong. From what I read it is more than one of those ridiculous chips that just enrichens the fuel air mixture. This actually has 2 tunable fuel maps as well as ignition tunes, possibly opening up switching to distributorless timing and finer tuning of the timing? Thoughts and help on this would be great., alternatives too. As always thanks in advance.
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Hey everyone, I've got some new problems with my 87 GL10 Turbo XT. I'm hoping you all can help me out again. I pulled the coolant passage off the back of the intake manifold to replace the gaskets and the thermo vacuum valve as they were leaking coolant. To get it out without pulling the entire manifold I had to remove the turbocharger, distributor, knock sensor, and the throttle cable bracket on the bell housing. I just recently got it all back together and after some issues timing it (since I removed the disty) we finally got it to time at 25 degrees BTDC. Now however it tries to idle at 3000 rpm and heats up really fast and overheats despite my upgraded dual core cooling system. We haven't done tons of troubleshooting yet, just looking for things to try while I do so. It ran like a dream before I took it apart for the leak. Any suggestions? Thanks in advance. -
I've read in several places that the XT coupes that were sold in Europe were more powerful. They had 136HP to the 115 we got in the US. Anyone know what the differences were between the cars/motors they got over the ones we received in the US?
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I have an 87 XT turbo coupe. As far as I know it has the 3AT, I've heard the 3AT can handle a fair amount of power increase. What I'm wondering is how much power I can add to my EA82T before it becomes too much for the tranny. I'm also curious, if I reach my goal of getting my EA82T to 150-160 HP, how much more top speed and how much shorter 0~60 time will I end up with using the stock 3AT tranny? I have dug up various articles on the XT, back in 87 it was rated for 115 top speed and a 0~60 time of about 9 seconds. I don't know if those numbers were with the auto or the manual, but i would like to know what kind of improvement I might see with the 30 extra HP. Thanks in advance.
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I have an 87 XT coupe, with the EA82T engine. I want to install a top mount intercooler and can't decide which one. An air to air is more reliable, but probably doesn't cool as much. An air to water however has the possibility of leaking and getting coolant down the intake. So I'm looking for advice on this. Keep in mind the cooler will be getting it's airflow from the factory hood scoop. Thanks in advance.
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I am trying to fix an insanely irritating idle problem on my 87 XT. EA82T engine MPFI. Its the one that sat for 17 after my dad fixed the heads and I recently got running. When it idles it wanders by about 200 RPM either way. The main big issue is that when it is in gear (Auto Tranny) it dies if you don't feather the throttle, as you can imagine that would make in town driving a pain. I have checked all the vacuum lines to the best of my knowledge. Scoured the shop manuals i have for the 86 year. Cleaned the idle air screw and the EGR air bypass solenoid as I originally thought it was the IAC valve. I have tested and replaced the vac line to the tranny from the intake manifold. And replaced the vac hoses from the pressure ports on the front of the throttle body. I cleaned the main throttle butterfly as it was suggested that that being dirty could cause this issue. I have triple checked the timing both valve and ignition. The only other thing i can think of it might be is the Aux Air Valve on top of the thermostat housing. I had pulled the electrical plug from it when it was idleing cold and it made no difference. It was my under standing that if you do that when its idling cold there is supposed to be a major idle change? I sort of suspect that it has to be a vac leak somewhere, because the engine gets kinda hot despite an upgraded cooling system and new thermostat. I have been beating my head against the wall about this problem for almost a month. If any of you can help me I would be forever grateful.
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I have an 87 XT turbo with the computer controlled 4 speed auto tranny. I was wondering if there is a direct bolt in lock up torque converter for better efficiency? As far as i know the torque converters they came with were not lock up and thus not as efficient at higher speeds. If anyone know of one that is a direct bolt in, i'd appreciate it. I also plan to install a magasquirt 2 ECU later, so keep in mind it will have to be compatible with that. Thanks in advance.
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I've been slowly combing through various subsystems on my RX and the most recent system to get some love was the PCV system. I found that every hose is still available, except the one that attaches directly to the PCV valve on the intake manifold. I ran down to my local auto parts store with the original hose in hand to pick through their selection of hoses. WELL! It turns out that the small heater hose from a 2002-2009 Ford Explorer (Dayco P/N 87730) is almost a perfect fit. Hose was about $7 and needed to have a small portion trimmed off. NOTE: EPDM is NOT oil safe, so until I find a better solution, I'll need to keep an eye on this hose to make sure it isn't perishing too quickly. -
I was doing some work on one of my RXs the other day and had some trouble removing the ignition rotor set screw. After bumping the engine 180 degrees I found a better screwdriver and a better angle and was able to remove it. However, when I went to put the new rotor back on I could not get the set screw to thread back in to save my life. Upon closer inspection I noticed the set screw's threads were full of distributor shaft... Somehow this little screw had pulled the threads out of the distributor shaft... So I turn to you folks, what do I do? Searching turned up nothing, but this can't be the first time this has happened? The fix should be simple, re-tap the disty shaft or use a self tapping screw, but does anyone have a recipe they'd like to share? Thanks in advance!
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Hello everybody! First time Subaru owner here. I just picked up an 1986 XT Turbo 4x4 complete with the digital dash! Aside from one patch of floor pan rust and the typical rust on the front left subframe, the underbody is pretty minty. Car is straight with the exception of some damage in the front right corner. I still need to figure out fixing the popup on that side, but I just ordered the last new passenger side fender in North America! (Sorry! ) Aside from the dashboard being mincemeat the interior is pretty mint too, not a single rip in the seats, original floor mats, fully functioning dashboard. Radio is dead but I'll take a look at it. Only major problem with the car is she has a wee bit of rod knock and she hates warm starts. She also doesn't like idling after letting off the throttle too quick. My bets are either the IAC or the coolant temp sensor. Anyway, I'm not entirely sure what I want to do with her yet but my ultimate goal is a rotary swap. However since that would be very very expensive, right now I'm heavily considering a B swap! But that's for another post . Unlike many (seemingly) of the other new XT owners, this will absolutely not be a rally car but instead a clean street car. It may be some years before the word "clean" can apply but who knows!
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Title says it all, I can find a ton of info on the later (87.5+) 4 plug ea82t ecus's but nothing for the earlier 3 plug ea82t ecu. I'm also looking for a pinout of the engine harness connectors as well. Some fsm scans would be great, but I'll take what I can get. The engine, wire harness and ecu in question is from an 86 2wd XT with an ea82t. TIA Josh -
Hey Im new to this forum and a bit new still to subies but i have this 1982 BRAT and i just picked up a almost complete EA82T to swap into it minus the wiring harness and ecu so i am in need of one does anyone have one that they would sell for cheap?-- i need every single wire and the ecu and also the hole MAF housing and the sensor and the downpipe so Please let me know. Thanks. -Jared -
So i have a 1992 loyale, i replaced the head gaskets last winter. and im starting to get scared that im gonna have to tear it apart again. It leaks very slowly from the camshaft housing and valve cover, and has a tick when the motor is cold. My question is should i grow a pair, rip it apart and fix it or should i look at other options?
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Attention all turbocharged EA owners! This thread is to gauge the interest in an aftermarket replacement for your MAF-to-turbo hose. As you probably have experienced owning an older Subaru, many critical parts are no longer available (NLA), including the inlet hose on our EA81T and EA82T engines. This particular rubber hose happens to be out of production and is installed in a location that sees a lot of heat. I found the pipe on my personal vehicle had split where it joins the turbocharger's inlet and once I found out I couldn't order a replacement, I reached out to a few companies about building a replacement. The details: Replacement hose made from silicone Molded to match the contours of the OEM part Nylon reinforced for rigidity Lined with fluorosilicone to resist damage from PCV oil mist Resists degradation in temperatures up to ~500*F (EPDM rubber is good to ~210*F) CARB legal There is also an opportunity to have replacements made for all the other molded rubber PCV/vacuum hoses that are currently out of production. At this point I have a rough idea of what it will take to manufacture this part. Price will depend on how many parts are made, so this thread is for me to get an idea of how many folks here would be interested in one of these hoses. There are still a lot of variables to work out, but I'm open to comments and suggestions. So, who's interested?
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hey everyone, I recently found a couple cracked vac lines on my charcoal cannister while sitting at work the other day, so I decided to just remove it since I don't have EGR or any other smog type stuff. after removing the cannister ive noticed my fuel tank pressurizes more than normal and i was wondering if there was a return line to the tank that i should put a check valve on or hook up somewhere else??? i have an 89 Loyale turbo thats moderately modified -dual range swap (was 4eat) -VF11 turbo -intercooler -MAF relocation -Delta street cams (260*) -3rd gen heads w/mild porting thanks for any help!!
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just wondering what timing i should run with my EA82M (Mongrel) engine.. everyone has been telling me that it wouldnt run right, if at all. ive already done a 3 mile run up hill holding 6 psi boost the entire time and it never leaned out, i have my original timing for now cuz i dont have a timing light yet (22* or 24*) i have 02 readings in car at all times and havent had any problems yet runs perfect, just have to finish up my vaccum system now!! thanks for the help!
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My 89 Turbo Wagon and I've been experiencing some jumpy idle at start, and then the check engine light has come on. The light dissappears after the car is shut off. I checked and it's a Code 21. So I bought a coolant temp sensor and am wondering if anyone has any experience installing one of these. Thanks y'all!
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hey everyone, just a quick question, does the oil in/out of these turbos need pressure to flow (does the turbo pump the oil? or does the engines oil pump supply the flow) same with coolant, i figure the coolant system is always under a certain amount of flow since the pump is always spinning, but does the turbo circulate water or does only the engine circulate it through the turbo? thanks in advance!!
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Hey everyone, My 87 'Rally Wagon' had recently started showing signs of HG failure (frothy coolant & coolant loss) so I pulled the engine and found that it was just my heads that were toast... so, I've decided to keep my low compression block (7.7:1) for a spare and I'm putting the old heads onto an XT block for fun(: the XT engine-(MPFI 9.5:1 comp) What I want to know about this is if there's anything other than the obvious dangers of running boost with high compression.. if anybody has built one of these and run it dependably for any amount of time, what did you do? What should I look out for? And what's the most common failure point of these? This is my test engine, and if I like it I'm going to build a fresh block, ported heads, ported turbo, and eventually a propane set-up Thanks everyone for any input, I'm not expecting anything more than a mass amout of power and eventually a big bang over time with this one haha(: but id like to delay the bang until I get it all running right
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I must be blind or stupid, but I can't find my fuel pump relay. Nor can I find the location listed anywhere on here or the Internet. So, I turn to my fellow Subaruians, anyone know where the bastard's hiding? I need to replace him. Also, the 85/86 XT's are unique in their wiring setups, at least according to my craptastic Chilton manual. And even more-so because it's a bloody turbo. So, anyone have any ideas? Every location has been checked aside from putting the car on a lift and scouring the underside. Also, it specifies the relay sits between the EGR valve and the fuel pump in the wiring harness. This may or may not help depending on if anyone's torn down a harness or not. Twitch -
So, the story is that my '86 Coupe has been leaking oil and lately it's gotten a lot worse, but I've been unable to do any work on it. Initially I thought it was the driver-side camshaft seal. When adding oil yesterday I found the dreaded white goop on the oil filler cap. The engine is MPFI turbo and I know these have issues with the heads cracking, although mine has third generation heads. However, I think the oil may be leaking from the head gasket now. Any thoughts? -
Hey everyone I know you can find small simple ways all over these forums for adding/releasing power from ea82 turbo engines, but what I want to do is compile all the mods for improving the efficiency/power output from mostly stock ea82t's My '87 GL (push-button 4wd 5 speed) EA82T modifications/improvements -'03 STI Top Mount Intercooler -2.5" straight piped all the way back off turbo (stock up-pipe)(stock turbo) -opened air box (noticeable improvement) Any other mods that I can do/will do, I'll update my post and tell everyone how it works out and performs And please don't say to EJ it... heard that enough already haha if I didn't want to keep my EA82T I wouldn't be posting a forum about improving it (: Thanks for any input!!
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So i was driving my 87 GL turbo, with the part-time (push button) 4wd 5-speed, and my front CV axle had been going out for a while, but finally earlier today did the dramatic "Crunch... POW!!" earlier and wouldn't drive in front wheel drive so I had no choice but to drive home in 4wd (Rear wheel drive) for about 15 miles. It drove the whole way perfectly smooth and it barely made any clicky click sounds around corners my concern is if this could have damaged my front Diff. or the Center Diff?? And what transmissions can be easily swapped in, I have an RX tranny, a non-turbo D/R 5speed from an 87 GL, and another non-turbo part-time 4wd 5speed in an 86 DL
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So i was driving my 87 GL turbo, with the part-time (push button) 4wd 5-speed, and my front CV axle had been going out for a while, but finally earlier today did the dramatic "Crunch... POW!!" earlier and wouldn't drive in front wheel drive so I had no choice but to drive home in 4wd (Rear wheel drive) for about 15 miles. It drove the whole way perfectly smooth and it barely made any clicky click sounds around corners my concern is if this could have damaged my front Diff. or the Center Diff?? And what transmissions can be easily swapped in, I have an RX tranny, a non-turbo D/R 5speed from an 87 GL, and another non-turbo part-time 4wd 5speed in an 86 DL
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I'm sure its somewhere, but I can't really find anything on the effects of having no backpressure on an ea82 turbo engine My front cat on my 87 GL Turbo recently fell off, so I put a small section of pipe on it to keep exhaust off the CV axle. It seems to be running smoother and a little more powerful, but I keep thinking it could damage something internally driving it like that. Anyone have first hand experience with this?? Haha
