Search the Community
Showing results for tags 'ej20'.
Found 15 results
-
My 14' okie gator airboat. Powered by an ej20 turbo, has a 2:1 belt drive with a 10 blade warp drive prop. It does great out here on the st johns river, just got done test driving it for about 3 days in a row. I have a few questions for you guys but ill wait till tmrw. Till then, heres the boat ! Ill take some vids tmrw too.
-
New to the subaru world, ive always played with small and big block chevys, and aircraft engines. Well now my newest ride is a 14' fiberglass okie gator hull, with an ej20 turbo motor. Im not sure what year, maybe you guys can help me out. Its had a 2:1 belt reduction, because you can only turn a prop at 3100 rpm max, so 3100 rpms on a little ej wont do much. So we reduct them 2:1 so you can turn 6000 rpm max without over spinning the prop. Just a little something different for your forums!
-
Hey Everybody. Long time no write! It's been too long since I posted anything.. Busy with work and things. You know the drill. In the next week or so, I'll be performing the EJ20 swap in my 05 Forester. My engine has over 180 miles, has oil leaks, including the rear main seal, and has some really nice piston slap. If not for that last thing, I'd fix the leaks. I have some long distance driving coming up this spring - Death Valley for one - and I simply don't ant to get stuck somewhere with a blown engine. I decided an engine swap is the best solution. I tried finding another EJ25, but those are impossible to find, so a JDM EJ20 is on its way. I'm aware of the various thing that need to be swapped over from the old engine - cam and crank sprockets, sensors, intake manifold - but I have a question. Is the timing belt different between the two? I recently changed mine on the 25, and it would be nice if they were. If they are not, what car should I order from. All of the auto stores order according to vehicle, and since the Forester only comes with the 25, I know from previous experience I won't get the right part. Also, I'm curious how this swap has gone for others. I've read that the idle is smoother, but you do lose a bit of torque on acceleration. I can live with that. -
So I have a 86' GL-10 with 355k on the body, I'm not sure of the mileage on the transmission, but it's starting to be extremely rough shifting all gears, and sometimes doesn't like to go into first unless I'm at a complete stop, how difficult is it to replace the transmission myself on the 5sp 4wd version. I've done a trans swap on a 2001 Camaro, but that was rwd. I guess tied to that would be asking if there is anyone in the greater seattle area that would be able to do it for me, obviously for a price. I plan on driving the car cross country in May with some friends so I'm trying to get it into shape for that. I've replaced everything short of the radiator(perfect condition), trans(shifts hella rough), engine(makes a ticking noise while idling, if sitting for more than 5 minutes, also burns some oil when using trans to decelerate) and diff(seals on rear diff are slightly leaky but 4wd works solidly) at this point.
-
Hi guys! My subie needs a clutch replacement and I will do it myself. .... so I NEED YOUR ADVICE ! What clutch do you recommend? http://amzn.to/2iXQFqb http://amzn.to/2iBU0yK http://amzn.to/2iBPKiO Thanks for the help!! I will post pictures of how I did the clutch replacement. Hope it will help you later! My Leggy is a 1996 GL 2.0 SOHC Wagon Cheers, Fran -
Hi All, We've just created an in-depth tutorial on changing the oil on your EJ201 2007 Subaru Impreza. We thought the members of USMB would find it useful. Tools Required Socket Set Flathead Screwdriver (To remove clips) Trolley Jack and Axle Stands Oil Pan See the guide in full here! -
I have a custom built 1996 ej25 turbo that is broken. The crank pulley wobbles, knocking sound in the case. The motor is in my 1974 Westfalia conversion. That being said, Id like to replace it with a JDM. Im open to an ej20, ej22 or ej25. Id like to essentially do a long block swap with all my existing stuff, minus the turbo if need be. Is there a reference data base or web site of what motors and what years use the same exhaust manifolds/headers, same intake manifold bolt positions etc. etc.? Basically, do the heads have the same bolt patterns? Please advise -
Hi, im after some help if possible. Ive got a 1994 brat that ive put an ej20g into. Im all but done, I had the engine running 3 days ago. was running beautifully. I fitted 3 gauges to it, tach, water temp, boost, and i put a blow off valve on it. since then i cant get it to run. it cranks but ive got no spark or injector pulse. but there is fuel pressure. The engine had messed me around in the past. I moved the bracket with the ignitor, checked all wires (fixed a couple) and cleaned up some earths. Which got it running but now im back to square one. so im thinking it maybe something deeper. Ive replaced the crank sensor and ive connected all the vacuum hoses (not the originals, what ever i could find). Im thinking it could be the self shut off control not working right. Ive done some research and a few people have said about rewiring the main relay or fit a diode. If anyone knows of this problem any help is appreciated. Any other ideas on why it wont start would be helpful too. Thanks
-
so I'm just trying to see if this is possible. what i'm thinking about doing to taking a 86 brat and pull the motor and trany. i've found a donor car that i would take the trany, drive line, rear diff, and cv axles out of so i would have stronger parts to hold up better. i figured i would have to get a drive line made to fit the right length. i want to put a ej20 or ej22 motor into it to give it some go. the donor car is a mid 90's legacy. i just want to try and find out what i need to do before i get to deep into this build and get stuck. anything will help out.
-
So my dad's 93 Legacy had been backfiring on startup & idling high. I checked the timing belt marks & it seems to be off by a tooth or more. Also the driver side timing cover is broken where the cam timing mark would line up, bummer. But lined it up on passenger side & driver cam was off, even after cranking it around by hand. Well while I was working it I noticed it was an EJ20 nice surprise, I wondered why there was more room in the engine bay compared to my Legacy EJ22. Anyway is the timing belt, idler's, water pump & damn near everything else the same between the EJ20 & EJ22? Im sure the timing procedure is the same right? So a timing belt kit for a EJ22 of the same year is the same for a EJ20? Gotta fix it this weekend! Also 4EAT in the car is kinda sluggish, what would some members recommend? A complete fluid flush & new filter? Adding a In-Line tranny filter? Specific Additive or supplement? A pinched breather hose? Any opinions for "tuning up" the older 4EAT are appreciated, Thanks USMB & members for helping & saving each one us time & money on repairs & information/ And also getting to know our Subie's even better. One last thing, I'd read of some people lubricating their throw out bearings threw clutch fork window, Is that something anyone has tried/accomplished? Its risky business greasing Throw out bearing once starting to make noise when clutch engaged. I assume only options are replace it or whole clutch kit OR ignore/get used to it but prepare for consequences. My 95 Legacy makes once pedal is released. -
bought a write off 96 model .. suby with a working ej20 Na engine from and 5spd manual transmission and awd drivetrain ... and I already have a 94 gx impreza with an ej18 5spd fwd with a blown water pump and a really bad knock in the block from overheating due to blown water pump.... given that i paid $90au for the entire wreck i figure i might as well do the swap to the 2 litre...instead of a rebuild(to fix the knock which is most likely rod end bearings) .. so would swapping the engine be fairly straight forward?
-
Hey guys i'm relatively new to subaru's so i don't know much about them at the moment so i was wondering if you guys could enlighten me on a few details. And yes i have searched through the forums and google but i can't seem to find much info on anyone swapping from a ej20 to a phase 1 ej22. Everywhere i could find was about people swapping out a ej25 to 22. I was wondering what i would need to replace/ modify to get the ej22 into the 2000 forester(manual) I am using the ej22 as it was the engine in my last car which i still have but with a blown head gasket and 350 thousand km's (doesn't blow smoke just compression gasses going into the cooling system atm) and I want to pull the engine out of the car and replace the head gasket with a thinner one, pulley's with light weight ones, maybe a lightweight flywheel. Maybe even cams, Pistons and conrods depending if i can get the money when i start putting the engine back together By the way the ej22 is out of my 1991 FWD Liberty LX (auto) or Legacy everywhere else P.S I apologise for the somewhat disjointed post as it's quite late for me in sydney -
So a while back.....I tried putting a 2.5 crank in a 2.0 block. Problem shows immediately that the 2.0 pistons come out of the block by about 13mm because you have to use the 2.5 rods, which are too long. So flash forward....there is a thread about EJ20 pistons in an EA block, and it got me thinking. EJ20 and EA82 pistons are the same size.....and EA82 and EJ25d rods both have 48mm big ends. And EA rods are about 12-15mm shorter than the EJ25 rods. So here is my idea. EJ20 block EJ25d crank EA82 pistons, wristpins, and connectiong rods. EJ22 heads. 92mm bore 79mm Stroke 9.5+ compression......should be a torquey beeach. I'll take parts to the shop monday for some test fitting. Anybody heard of this or done this? I know you can get custom EJ rods and pistons to do this but maybe can be done with OE subaru parts?
-
Ok, so most of my posts have been in the older gen forums for mainly two reasons: One, ive only really had issues with my 87 RX, and Two, the very little i do know, is about EA82's and ive learned 95% of it from USMB. With that said, a friend got me in touch with a guy selling his 02 WRX wagon. He believes the turbo went out because of the Banjo bolt filter issue. I'm still waiting for a chance to get more info from the guy and go up there and check the thing myself - again. not like i think i know more than the owner, i just don't want to overlook anything. I need help with a couple of questions. First, whats the best way to find out if it IS the turbo, and how would go about finding out if its an oil starvation thing or if it just swallowed the up-cat? Then figuring out the issue, whats my solution: banjo-bolt problem - remove banjo bolt screen, replace turbo and oil? is an engine rebuild necessary? how extensive? new-shortblock-extensive rebuild? turbo eating stuff issue - rebuild? or complete replacement? The main issue is figuring out the extent of repairs needed in order to weigh the costs. Ive searched a few forums and it always seems there's the the "my friend just got a rebuilt engine for $xx price." Well, i need "xx price from yy source in Washington", the kind of information i can use to find parts, not just what prices are possible. this is all based on the little i know about WRX's and Im sure im overlooking other possable issues. My problem is, someone gets me started on one train of thought, and suddenly all the symptoms point to that issue. Any enlightenment on the subject will be very much appreciated. -
Ok. so I have started back on my RX project again. been really busy with moving and such, she kinda got put on hold. Picked up my new JDM motor and tranny and have slowly been tearing it down to do a re-seal and tighten things up before I drop it in. Pics of my 5-lug swap... Using front end parts from a 99 OBS rear is all XT6. And here is what I have been doing more recently. Not sure if anyone remembers me contemplating dropping a EJ20t into her but atlas I decided not to "settle" for what I didn't really want... SO yeh. here's my new Version 4 JDM EJ20 Sti and tranny... Motor came pretty well complete and I got a smoking deal on it! included the TMIC,harness ecu, turbo timer, and Syms racing Downpipe and header! Now, I could have dropped this motor in and head it running by now but I convinced myself to tear it down and do a complete re-seal of the entire thing. And since im doing that I might as well to the head gaskets and port the heads and intake while im in there. also ordered up a set of ARP head studs. Also powder coating a few things while I have it apart. I'm going to be powder coating everything I can on this guy to keep it looking clean for years to come. ill post more pics of stuff like that as they happen. lots of cleaning left to do, still need to port the heads and intake, waiting for gaskets to arrive (hopefully tomorrow). I've also been getting goodies for this project as funds allow. see such goodies below . B&M Turbo oil cooler. New TMIC next to the JDM IC that came with the motor. Figured I had room for a larger one so.. Why not! New silicone turbo inlet tube and New TMIC Y pipe. Stage 3 6-puck ceramic clutch and 12lb flywheel. should give me nice fast revs! also considering going with a lightened under drive pulley kit. New GFB response BOV. fully adjustable atmo/resirc! So, that's my progress thus far. As I said as funds allow I will be doing more work to it. should be running before to much longer and I will keep everyone posted as things happen.
