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Showing results for tags 'ej25'.
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Hey all, got a bit of a problem. I have an 05 WRX STI that I got used with 70,000 miles on it. Owner said the engine had been swapped with a 20,000 mile unit. I have owned the car almost a year now. Mods it came with: Invidia cat back exhaust. Cobb intake Grimspeed turbo solenoid AOS of unknown brand Aluminum mishimoto radiator Cobb accessport running stage 1 tune of unknown origin. Mods I installed: Killerbee oil pickup Prosport oil pressure and voltage gauges. I run Castrol 5W30 premium full synthetic. Now on to the problem. I was driving home one night, about 12 miles. I was driving spiritedly, but definitely not thrashing it. I pull into a gas station at the edge of the town I live in and notice smoke from under the hood. There is oil all over the passenger side strut tower and on the turbo and down pipe. I check the oil level, and it's right on the money. I decide to drive it the 8 blocks home and keep a close eye on the oil pressure. Oil pressure is fine all the way home, I open the hood and check again. There doesn't appear to be any additional oil on the strut tower or surrounding area. I have thought for awhile that it gets hotter under the hood than it ought to, but my temp gauge never climbs past the third mark up that's before the red zone. I have yet to pull it apart and look in depth, in the meantime anyone have any ideas as to what may have happened? My current theory is that the banjo bolt for the oil line on top of the turbo went bad. As always, thanks in advance. -
Hey all. I just got done replacing both O2 sensors on my 05 WRX STI. It was throwing a running rich code, and getting abysmal fuel mileage, hence the sensor replacement. Now after the sensor swap, it hasn't thrown the rich mixture code with a 5 mile test drive. Now however it has a wandering idle. If you disengage the clutch and let it drop to idle, it will either drop so low it actually dies, or it will drop to around 200 RPM before climbing back to 800. It will also occasionally speed up the idle to 1000 RPM. It had this wandering issue before the sensor swap, but it was never bad enough to kill the car and generally wandered up instead of down. I have only had this car a few months and the previous owner tuned it. How is the idle controlled on this car? Is it all ECU controlled? Or is there something I can adjust? Do I just need to give the ECU time figure out it has new sensors? Thanks in advance.
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Hey all. I recently did the first oil change on my new to me 05 STI. It did alright during the circulation after the change, but my low oil pressure light came on on my way home from work. From what posts I can find, I'm guessing a piece of sludge or carbon got dislodged and jammed the pressure relief valve open. I believe that valve is on the oil pump itself? Can anyone confirm that? If it is, how easy would it be to correct? Can I replace that valve, or does it have to be the whole pump? I'm currently in the process of installing an oil pressure gauge, so I can verify what pressure is actually there. Also, I can't think of why it would, but could this have been caused in any way by the fact that I changed it from 5W30 to 5W40 during the change? Thanks in advance.
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Hey all, hopefully I won't be ridiculed or called an idiot for asking this, but I really want to know. I recently got an 05 WRX STI, I read that the DOHC EJ25 motors are interference engines. I know if you change your timing belts regularly, the odds of catastrophic failure due to pistons hitting valves is low. However, pulleys can seize and belts can fail prematurely. Also if you run without covers so you can regularly check them, that adds the possibility of something getting caught and breaking the belt. So my question is, how hard is it to make the engine non-interference? Will installing thicker head gaskets get the clearance needed to make it non-interference? If you increase how much boost the turbo puts out, will it successfully compensate for the compression loss you would get by raising the heads? Just how much overlap is there between the valves and the piston? Thanks in advance.
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Does anyone know if the short block from an 03 Subaru Forester 2.5 SOHC with the dual cylinder exhaust ports uses the same short block as an 04 Subaru Outback 2.5 SOHC with the single cylinder exhaust port? I have the short block that came from the Outback and the cylinder heads that came off the Forester and was hoping I could combine the two to make a complete motor. If anyone could tell me whether they are compatible I would appreciate it. -
Ok, I have read many forums with many conflicting replies with the following pursuit. A Ej25 block with EJ22 heads for higher compression. The following are my perameters of the build that I hope you guys can help me with. 1). I have limited room for this build. This is not going into subaru, so I have a maximum engine width to be 28 1/2", rocker cover to rocker cover. so I believe I will need phase 1 heads to do this. 2). I would like it to be SOHC. not DOHC not enough room and heavier. 3). It must be NA, so no forced induction of any kind please. 4). I would like it use existing available parts from donor. 5). Which ECU for up to 6500rpm? 6). Which head gaskets and will I need? And will I need to port the combustion chamber to match the cylinders? 7). Any other info that would help? 8). What would the estimated compression come to? What is the best way to start this project and with what phases,1 or 2 and years of these heads and blocks I would like the outcome to be around 185 crank hp or more if possible. And be a more mid range rpm. I don't require a high revving motor.
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Basically.... About 3 weeks ago car was intermittent no start. Cranking was rough/rumbly and gas pedal hadda be teased in order for it to sometimes start. Attached a missing ground strap and car was reliable for a few weeks. Still had a bit of a rough/rumbly start but at least started and drove. It ran fine, but I pulled the motor for HG job and no spark after re-install. Tested coil pack resistance, tested bad. Swapped coil pack....didn't help. Power to coil pack, no signal to coil pack. Crank sensor & cam sensors pass resistance tests. Checked wiring to ECU, passed. Reinstalled ECU, engine started and ran for 15 seconds including idling and revs but no issue was actually solved... But we reinstalled accessories. Again, no spark, no signal to coil. Fuses tested/examined, so not a fuse. It's a 2001 Subary Legacy Outback 2.5/EJ25. Any advice on what might be going on or how to test the ECU would be great help. -
Hey all, Recently I've been discovering posts about changing the location of the thermostat from the bottom of the engine, in front of the water pump, to the top radiator hose right after the coolant exits the engine. This is supposed to reduce cavitation, and I've been having problems with an ej25d overheating. Ive ordered new hoses, radiator, and thermostat, and I'm thinking about doing this inline thermostat mod. Am I wasting my time thinking about this mod? I've always had a hard time burping the ej25d system so maybe this would help? This would also be easier to replace, and in theory reduces cavitation at the water pump. Has anyone done it? What are some experiences with it? -
I have a rebuilt sohc ej25 sitting in my garage that I'm about to finish building out. I’m trying to figure out if it’s an ej253 or an ej254 or other. I do not have the VIN # from the donor vehicle. Is there a way to visually figure out which variant I have? Thanks, -bob -
I'm not entirely new to Subaru but I haven't don't much to an engine yet, however I am planning to rebuild my engine on my 98 Foerster limited, and I'm worried I'll botch it. Any advice? -
So last week my stock alternator died. I replaced it with my GM 1 wire alternator 60 amp , which i keep for just this type of circumstance. Since the tension bolt does not match up. I installed it with my Redneck wood shims method of tightness. Then on Monday i was able to get an JY alternator from a 2002 EJ25, $17.50 Below are the wiring diagrams I used. Now with everything on still have 14.1 at battery.
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I’m a car nerd and a hobbyist mechanic learning by getting my hands dirty. I picked up a 2003 Forester, Pacifica Blue with ~170k, bone stock, a great body and interior, and one big issue – overheating. After pulling the engine I found that some of the coolant passages were plugged solid. Mystery solved. It’s a bit crude but the attached picture features a flathead screwdriver stuck into the calcification – that’s how dense it is. I have to assume the smaller internal passages are just as bad, though the water pump itself was clean and the passenger's side passages aren't *as* bad. I was told phosphoric acid cleaner would eat away at it, but would it really get it all? I know the most effective way would be to pull everything and have the block hot tanked. I’m worried I’ll jump into a money pit of pistons / rings / bearings if I go that route. The engine ran well, and I can still see factory crosshatching on the cylinder walls. IMO they don't look bad but other people say they do. It might get headers and exhaust some day but it will most likely remain totally stock. I have head / intake / exhaust / oil pan / valve cover gaskets, rear main seal, head bolts, thermostat, timing belt, water pump, and more waiting to go on. I’m pondering my options before the heads go to the machine shop. Because of new circumstances I need this to be my daily driver, so I'm trying to save money. On the other hand, I want to do things properly and reliably the first time. Advice has ranged from “chip away what you can” to “buy a different block” ... what would you do? High-res images here https://imgur.com/a/eGBDm Edit: attached another image - is that oil weeping past the rings?
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Hey Everybody. Long time no write! It's been too long since I posted anything.. Busy with work and things. You know the drill. In the next week or so, I'll be performing the EJ20 swap in my 05 Forester. My engine has over 180 miles, has oil leaks, including the rear main seal, and has some really nice piston slap. If not for that last thing, I'd fix the leaks. I have some long distance driving coming up this spring - Death Valley for one - and I simply don't ant to get stuck somewhere with a blown engine. I decided an engine swap is the best solution. I tried finding another EJ25, but those are impossible to find, so a JDM EJ20 is on its way. I'm aware of the various thing that need to be swapped over from the old engine - cam and crank sprockets, sensors, intake manifold - but I have a question. Is the timing belt different between the two? I recently changed mine on the 25, and it would be nice if they were. If they are not, what car should I order from. All of the auto stores order according to vehicle, and since the Forester only comes with the 25, I know from previous experience I won't get the right part. Also, I'm curious how this swap has gone for others. I've read that the idle is smoother, but you do lose a bit of torque on acceleration. I can live with that. -
I'm attempting to turbo my N/A ej22, car is a 1999 Legacy L 30th Anniversary edition. I don't see why a phase 2 ej25 head won't mate up with the phase 2 ej22 block and they are both SOHC but I know that there is greater wisdom than I posses lurking in these forums. My ej22 block has single port heads and I want to swap them our for the ej25 duel port heads in order to run boost. what issues do I face? will the heads mate right up to the ej22 in a "plug and play" way? will my stock ECU know what to do with the ej25 cam? Any general advice? I will also be switching the full intake manifold so advice on that would be greatly appreciated. Are there different sensors I need to be aware of? Line placement issues? -
I changed out original 276K motor with used 76K . Outback is 5 spd manual. Did all wear point replacement and of gaskets / 5 Star HG. Car had been running great. Normal MPG 28 or so. No symptoms displayed before breakdown. Sold to my friend and has now come back to me for the repair. I did not use a genuine Subaru timing belt so that is in the back of my head. Compression is about 50% ~ 110psi. No spark with induction timing light. Car sounds different than I remember when turning over also. Oil is clean. So any other suggestions before I start disassembly? Any experience with premature timing belt failures? This was my 5th Subaru timing belt and easiest since I had the motor out. So could the belt have slipped one tooth and reduced the compression? Why no spark with an induction timing light? Any advice appreciated. -
Hello, I was talking with a reputable engine builder about my engine EJ25. He told to to look at my Oil Pump housing number in the upper left corner. If it is a 7 or 9 he recommends getting a better pump. Either the 11mm or 12mm pumps. Has anyone ever heard of this? I'm going to talk with him today in detail to see what happens to these pumps. -
My 03 Impreza rs recently blew its 2.5l sohc engine. My question is, would I be able to direct swap a ej254 Dohc 2.5l engine into my car without having to buy a new wiring harness, exhaust, ecu, etc? -
My 03 Impreza rs recently blew its 2.5l sohc engine. My question is, would I be able to direct swap a ej254 Dohc 2.5l engine into my car without having to buy a new wiring harness, exhaust, ecu, etc?
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My 03 Impreza rs recently blew its 2.5l sohc engine. My question is, would I be able to direct swap a ej254 Dohc 2.5l engine into my car without having to buy a new wiring harness, exhaust, ecu, etc?
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I have a 2003 2.5l Impreza rs that recently blew its sohc ej25 engine. Would I be able to direct swap a 2.5l ej254 dohc engine without having a buy a new wiring harness, exhaust, sensors, etc?
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Hey everyone. Have an interesting puzzle here. EJ25 in a '99 Outback. Its been running great, but a week or so ago the check engine light came on, and the codes said P0303 and P0304 (cylinder 3 and 4 misfire). My wife said the car lugged a bit at low RPMs right when it happened, but it was running fine after that as well as when I was checking it later that day. Since the two codes came at the same time, I thought it might be the coil at fault. I didn't know how old the plugs were, so I figured it was time for a tuneup and gave it a new coil, new wires, and four new NGK plugs. (The old plugs looked fine.) It ran well after that, just as well as before. But a day later the CEL came on again, this time for misfire codes for the OTHER pair of cylinders- P0301 and P0302 for cylinders 1 and 2. I was along when it happened, and the engine continued running seemingly normally. We monitored it for a few days, and it still idles smoothly, revs, and accelerates under load completely normally. The only observable abnormal thing it did is kick up to a fast idle a few times while we were stopped in traffic waiting for a train to pass. (AC/defrost was not on.) I've done some searching, and found quite a number of things that could cause misfires... But the fact that my misfires were always in pairs, and that the pair moved to the other two cylinders after the coil/wire/plug change, has me stumped. Any thoughts on what I might check next? Thanks -
Hello! I have oil leaking from front of engine and would like to remove my oil pump to check for pump and seal failures. I am wondering if anyone has had experience performing this without removing the engine or if this would even be possible. I would love to hear any advice/steps involved in the process if so. I drive a 99 Subaru legacy outback Wagon with the ej25 engine. To me it looks like it can be done, but I wanted to get an experienced second (or more) opinion before diving in. Thanks in advance! -
Hey There! My names Happy. I am a suburu lover with little mechanical skill asking some navigating questions. BASIC STORY: My car crashed, 98 Legacy L, 218,000 miles EJ22 Automatic tranny Needed too much maintenance on top of the raidiator and body work (new brakes, axle boot....more), though the engine and core components seemed fine. Sold it, eventually letting it go to good people for $400. Engine and Tranny seem great. My friend has a 98 Outback, 260,000 EJ25 Manual tranny As I read is common to those, he has burnt valves (not sure which). He's selling the car. Pretty good shape, needs a starter soon, clutch soon maybe. Big story summed up in a few words: these cars have history together, I got the one partially because I liked my friend's, they are the same color, there is some special spirituality stories that go with each of them them and make them like soul mates (long trippy story), and even my buyers had a link in the tale. TURNS OUT, the people that bought my car goofed and needed a different engine. They are waiting to sell it or part it. I believe my EJ22 can go in the 98 outback in place of EJ25. My basic navigating questions: Possible? Practical with those mileage levels? Any random things that might discourage me from trying to make that happen? If you could be hired to do that job, what would you estimate the labor charge? Thank you for your time :-) -
So since a quick search revelaed nothing on " tow bar" figured it was OK to start a thread. Figured with plenty of friend's who have trucks, and genrally doing all sorts of stupid things it would be a good idea to have tow bars on my subarus. Seems like it would make it a lot easier to get home if a buddy with a super duty could just hook up and tow me home VS calling a tow. ( at 300 miles between major towns tows get expensive) So the question : Anyone use a harbor freight tow bar on their Subaru ? I plan to use one on my 1993 2.2 legacy and my 1998 subaru outback legacy. This is the product I am looking at: http://www.harborfreight.com/5000-lb-capacity-adjustable-tow-bar-94696.html Thanks for looking and contributing. ( open thread so long as relatively on topic its good :0D ) -
Engine type EJ251AXBWL in a 2002 Outback, the AC belt jumped and was wound up behind the timing belt cover and the crank pulley. Part of the timing belt cover was melted by the crank pulley which was rubbing on the timing belt cover. I removed the crank pulley and the timing belt cover. The timing belt seems to be a good condition with only 40K miles since it was last replaced. The timing belt cover is slightly bubbled near where the crank pulley would be. The crank pulley itself has a couple places where there are tiny notches broken away. My first question is, has anyone seen this before? I am trying to figure out the cause of the AC belt failure. Looking at the Alternator Belt, this belt is well worn with cracking and a couple of missing pieces of splines. Now I am in the process of ordering replacement parts. Besides the Alternator and AC belts, and the timing belt cover, do you think I should replace the timing belt cover gaskets? I could take a file and smooth out the tiny notches in the crank pulley or should I replace it too? Thank you in advance for your comments!
