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Showing results for tags 'electrical'.
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Hello, Just purchased a 2007 Impreza 2.5i, it came with the stock head unit which I quickly swapped out for a Sony car stereo I purchased new from Crutchfield. Install was easy, wired up the harness, plugged the ground back into the bracket, radio works great, no issues at first. After a day I get in the car, go to start it up, as soon as I turn the key to the “on” position I hear a click and all electrical in the car ceases to function, completely dead. So I pop the hood, disconnect the negative battery terminal then reconnect, Immediately everything works just like nothing had happened. This has happened several times over the last couple of days. Anyone encountered this issue before? Any idea what may be going on? Any help would be greatly appreciated. -
Hi all, I'm hoping I can get some help on this problem that's got me completely stumped. So a breakdown of my problem: - Blinkers won't turn on in the dash or the bulbs and when I try to turn them on, there is a fast electrical sounding clicking somewhere in the dash or underneath it - After a few minutes of the car being on, the A/T light will start flashing and the car will refuse to shift into or out of park/reverse - I changed the relay and it didn't do anything so I left it unplugged and it will immediately not shift after turning on - I gave power directly to the wiring through the bulb and the front and back flashers turned on perfectly If anyone has heard of any fixes for this or has had a similar problem I would really appreciate any info! -
So I have a 2000 Subaru Legacy GT Sedan that I’ve had about 2 years and just over a year ago the windshield wipers and sprayers started going off non stop. Pulled the fuse to make it stop and just used a bunch of rain x to put a bandaid on it. Just last night I was on my way home and my passenger headlight went out shortly followed by my drivers side headlight. When it went out I heard a loud click. The brights still work but no DRL or low beams. Both fuses are mint as is the relay and the bulbs, any thoughts on what this could be? Also upon looking it seems that there was a blowout on the drivers front tire that really messed up the wire harness, does anyone think this is the culprit and if so what portion of the wire harness is this?
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Need help! Cant seem to find the exact same issue on here like I am having. 2002 Forester 5 speed installed new alternator checked all brakes. Battery and brake light are on and will go OFF, when I unplug the 2 wire alternator connector both of the lights will go off, while the brake light is on also it gets brighter when I actually pull the brake up so don't think it is that switch. What I have determined and tried so far: 1. Battery at rest 12.6 V and i also checked with an electronic load tester and it shows 100% charged, <4 meg ohms resistance and passed a 625CCA load test. 2. With car running battery reads 14.8 to 15V (already replaced alternator already assuming it was a bad regulator and it had 180K miles on it before doing any of this) 3. When I unplug the 2 wire connector on the alternator both lights go out and the battery goes to about 12.3V running with no accessories on. 4. I have cleaned body and motor ground connections with sandpaper and reinstalled. Cleaned and put protector on battery post. Used electrical cleaner on the 2 wire Alt connector. I don't understand the problem, is this and the other alternator possibly putting out over voltage out of cars computer accepted parameter and causing the light(s) to come on? Am I missing something? I am a master electrician (big wires LOL) and used to restore old cars and do modern engine transplants into them so not a total novice but this LITTLE problem on the Rue has me scratching my head....Any suggestions? -
I was wondering if anyone had found a direct-replacement for the parking lamp bulb socket on the EA82 chassis. Nearly every one I've laid eyes on is brittle, broken and turning to dust. They're getting to the point where they don't even hold the bulb inside the lamp properly and I've resorted to taping the socket to the back side of the lamp. I haven't pulled up the OEM part number yet (assuming it's obsolete, based on the failure rate I'm seeing in the field) and RockAuto doesn't list a direct replacement. So, what have you folks been doing about these bulb sockets? -
hey all, I recently acquired a 1990 legacy. Drove it for a couple days, then all of a sudden I'm driving along and all of a sudden the car dies instantly with all electrical gone. Checked the battery and alternator and both are good. Tracked it down to the fusible link in the underhood fuse box, which had blown. So i grabbed another one, put it in and as soon as i hooked the battery up it blew up. Pulled all the fuses in the box, put in another and smoked it too. So i'm at a loss. I'm new to Subaru's, anyone have electrical issues like this before? I don't know what would be upstream of the fuse panel that, with all fuses removed, would be smoking this fusible link like that. Any help would be appreciated, thanks! -
So I have a 1988 Subaru DL Wagon I got a few months back for $1400 with 60k miles runs great and It’s been my daily since February. But I’m wanting to upgrade the audio. I purchased the Metra 70-8900 harness adaptor, working on making a bracket to fit a new head unit but I realized with the set up I have I’m concerned that the alt and battery may need upgraded to compensate for the power I’m going to need for the amp. Has anyone done anything like this on their pre -90 Subie? I’m looking to install my 15s from my previous daily and the 1400w amp I have.
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My Forester has a P0327 code. I checked the voltage on the shielded wire coming from the wiring harness to the sensor and it is 0.01 volts, not 2.5 or 5 volts. We have a recurring problem with pack rats getting into the engine compartment. I kill them within a day of discovery, but they do a lot of damage just overnight. The wire coming out from the ECU/ wire harness to the knock sensor pigtail has several rat bites in it, so I assume the 0.01 volt reading is due to another cut in the wire somewhere upstream of where I found the cuts. The harness is very tight and seems largely inaccessible from the knock sensor back toward the firewall, so was thinking of adding a new wire back to the knock sensor from closer to the ECU. Any thoughts or suggestions about adding a new shielded wire? The car has 176,000 miles and runs great, I've owned the car since it was new. The Subaru dealer suggested not worrying about it, but if I can get the sensor working again and get rid of the check engine light without completely disassembling the engine to get to the whole wiring harness, I'd like to fix it. Thanks. -
Hi, I recently replaced the heater core in my 2001 Forester L. Everything basically went to plan, but I'm having some issues. 1. There are several trouble codes: P0500 Vehicle speed sensor malfunction P1540 Vehicle speed sensor malfunction 2 P1591 Neutral position switch circuit low input P1518 Starter switch circuit low input P0512 Starter switch circuit high input P0316 Misfire Occurred in the First 1000 Engine Revolutions 2. The gauge cluster is acting strange. Normally the lights behave but once I turn on the headlights only some of the gauges are lit and the backlights for the LCD displays turn off. I've inspected the wiring a bunch of times. I went to a salvage yard and tore into the dashes of 3 foresters to make some detailed comparisons. Took a ton of pictures. Long story short, I'm pretty sure the wiring in my Forester was properly connected. I checked the fuses and they are fine. There are two connectors I can't seem to find mates for. There's a single black wire that attaches to something somewhere around the cigarette lighter I can't find a mate for. In the same location there's a connector with 3 prongs in the same area I can't find a connection to. I have the cig lighter and whatnot properly wired up, though. I'm pretty stumped and any advice is appreciated. The service manual I've been reading is clear as mud as far where components are in the car that I can test. Any guidance with any of this is massively appreciated. The car otherwise runs and drives seemingly fine. TIA -
Howdy all, recently my ventilation system started only blowing when the knob is turned to 4, so it's full blast or nothing these days. Anyone else seen this before? Browsing the forums I've seen some people run into this with the Legacy and they mention a wire or switch below/behind the dash, but I can't find anything similar on my GL
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Hello, everyone. I'm newly registered to this site and have an odd one to request some insights into: [*]One low beam bulb (9005) does not work. Swapped sides with the correct (and working), matching low beam bulb and the original side still did not work. Brand new bulb tried on both sides to verify as the same. [*]All fuses were intact and the lighting-related fuses were checked for continuity and swapped around. No change. [*]Swapped the high/low relays from one side to the other. No change. [*]No power to the side not working but that's sort of to be expected from the diagnosis. No visible corrosion or breaks in wires. [*]Front running, fog and turn signal lights all work. Here's where it gets stranger: [*]No high beams on either side. New bulbs (H11). All fuses/relays swapped with no change. [*]High beam indicator light on the dash works when the lights are flashed or set to "on" (forward and back positions on the switch handle). [*]Cycling through the lighting options/positions on the switch works (minus the dead low beam and both high beams). All of this occurred at once. My wife claims to have heard some sort of "pop" sound but didn't think much of it. I'm getting to wit's end as this just doesn't make sense. I'm going to retest everything with my multimeter up and down the wiring harness but that's the last thing I can think of short of not driving it at night. Thanks for any help you may be able to offer. -CMA -
Hello everyone, My first time over here. I have had my 2000 subaru legacy GT for almost a year now and there has been a huge problem that i cant find an answer for. everytime i think ive found it i find something else. ill get right down to it and hopefully someone on here could give me a hand. i would really appreciate it. in the car i have the battery light and the handbrake light on. my DRLs never worked and neither did my fog lights. now tonight i was outside playing with it once again and realized that everything works fine once i unplug the 3pin connector from the alternator. so the car is running off the battery. drls come on, fog lights work, and bat/ebrake light turns off. and STAYS OFF. once i replug the alternator back on the drls shut off and everything is back the way it was. ive tested the alternator and its charging at a constant 14.10V and the battery always stays at 12.30V and remember the car has been this way since i got it almost a year ago. if the alternator was really dead or overcharging i wouldnt have made it all through the winter dailying it lol. im really stumped with what it could be .. ive tested every thing all the way down to the ebrake switch and fog light switch (before i discovered the alternator plug). If anyone knows whats up id really appreciate the info. i dont have the money to dump into an alternator at the moment so i really hope that there is a way to fix this issue as it would suck to throw away a working alternator. -
I have a 97 legacy that has no electrical power. No lights windows or any other circuits work. Battery tested good. My ground cables have a resistance of .5 amps and im getting power to my starter as well as my fuse box. I checked the fusable link and it seems fine. What main source of power can i check post fuse box? Any hidden fusable links or major relays, fuses i can check? Im tracing wires now but i was hoping someone can give me some guidance -
So I have a weird issue that I just can't for the life of me figure out. I bought my '92 Loyale a few months ago. 118k miles, and I had been driving it regularly. It got cold a few weeks ago and when I tried to start it I could hear what I think is the fuel pump (not sure that's what it is), but when I tried starting the car it wouldn't turn over the starter (I could hear the relay click). Not a weak battery sound (not the "click click click") just nothing at all. The next day it was warmer and started right up. A few days after that I got in to try to start it up and as soon as I switch the car to "on" I get a complete power loss. Dome light and dash lights go out. If I wait 5-10 minutes I'll get my dome light back. I've checked the batter and I get 12V+ on the terminals. I've tried hooking up my battery box (that will start my 4.0L Jeep that currently doesn't have a battery without an issue), but the extra juice doesn't do anything. We had a 50 degree day here recently, and I thought maybe my issue was temperature dependent, but even on that day it presented the same issue. I'm at a total loss here as to what could be wrong. I'm not even sure what to check next! Any thoughts as to what I could check to try to diagnose what is happening? The fact that I eventually get enough power back to run the dome light confuses me. Something gets energized which causes the problem, and it must eventually get discharged which allows power to return to things like the dome light. My thoughts: 1) Bad battery (internal components), so even though it reads the proper voltage something else is wrong once there's a draw on the battery 2) Bad alternator, somehow gets energized and shorts out the electrical? 3) Bad starter? I doubt this because it happens even though I don't even try to start the car? 4) Bad ECU? -
Hello, Back ground info: I have a 1994 Legacy Wagon. 2.2L, AWD, NA, 200,000 + miles. Conditions: 25 degrees for the past month. Snow on the ground. Recently replaced the Alternator. -- Problem -- Today I started my Legacy and it fired up like always. I drove about 3 miles. Motor warmed up like it should. All was running normally. I pulled into a gas station and filled my tank. Back out on the road, the motor began to run poorly. I could not accelerate, the motor lacked power. The check engine light NEVER came on. As I drove forward the car seemed to buck back and forth, yet the tach remained at a set RPM. Back home, I looked the car over. The car would run and Idle. The exhaust smelled sort of sour. There were some sounds of a miss fire. The motor did not bounce or vibrate as if to be running on 3 plugs. I could rev the motor up to 3K with no complaint. I let the motor cool. Then tried to drive it down the street. The problem had not gone away. Now, the motor will not fire up. When I turn the key to the RUN position, 3 seconds after I get a wild relay clicking sound coming from under the hood. While this sound is happening the fuel line going from the fuel filter to the motor (injectors) is pulsating to match. BUT, the lines coming from the fuel tank are not pulsing. Also, the check engine light comes on and matches the relays click sounds. And the tach needle bounces wildly. The motor will turn over but will not fire up now. I mentioned that I'd changed the alternator, just in case someone might have a connection. I changed the alternator two weeks ago and the car has run perfect since them. Also the cold weather has been on the ground here for the past month or so. I recall replacing the alternator in an icy cold wind storm. The pulsing fuel line from the motor to the fuel filter is a good clue. But I cant find any relay in the area that matches the clicks. I've felt the injectors and they are not making any sound or movement. If you might have a hint, please send it my way. Thanks for reading this. Rog -
So this is going to be kinda weird and may take a special type of person to want to help solve. Everything I am interested in getting further input on is from a 1991 subaru legacy....it just so happens to live in a 1983 VW vanagon. I Purchased this van with a 2.2L Subaru swap by Kennedy Engineering. Drove van from Sacramento to San Diego. Did a trip to Nevada, then the van began to have idling issues and when I went to replace the IAC valve, found oil in the intake. Turns out the rings were toast on the old engine. Took it to S&S performance and they put in a new engine. The engine is the only thing that was new. The wiring harness, ecu, intake, exhaust, and all sensors were from the old engine. After a couple weeks of driving the van, the idling issues came back. This is what I am trying to diagnose/fix. Symptoms · New engine ran perfectly for 450 miles · Rough idle developed · Cylinder 1& 2 not firing · Code 24 displaying on OBDI readout o Code for IAC valve New/recently serviced items · New motor from S&S performance o 450 miles on engine · New IAC valve · New TPS sensor · Recently serviced injectors o Done to see if injectors being clogged was the problem o 3 serviced, calibrated flow rates o 1 new o All OEM injectors for 1990-1991 manual Subaru Legacy Diagnosing · Injector #1 and #2 not pulsing o No ticking when listening for pulse with long rod o Injector #3 and #4 can be heard ticking from same test · Swapped connectors from injector #1 à injector #3 and injector #2 à injector #4 o Result: injector #1 and injector #2 began pulsing, injector #3 and injector #4 stopped pulsing. Engine ran worse from only getting power from two improperly timed cylinders. · With ignition ON, measured voltage at (+) ECUterminal for each injector o Result: § Injector 1: 12V (connector F47.13) § Injector 2: 12V (connector F47.12) § Injector 3: 12V (connector F47.11) § Injector 4: 12V (connector F47.26) · With ignition ON, disconnected injector connectors, measured voltage at (+) ECU terminal for each injector o Result: § Injector 1: 0.35V (connector F47.13) § Injector 2: 0.45V (connector F47.12) § Injector 3: 0.0V (connector F47.11) § Injector 4: 0.25V (connector F47.26) · Check Continuity between (+) wires for each injector from ECU pin to injector (+) terminal o Result: § Injector 1: Continuity (connector F47.13) § Injector 2: Continuity (connector F47.12) § Injector 3: Continuity (connector F47.11) § Injector 4: Continuity (connector F47.26) · Check continuity between ground wires for each injector and common ECU ground pin o NOTE: Seems the previous owner or someone had modified ECU. All injectors ground to one pin on the ECU, rather than the way it was originally designed where the injectors had two ground pins. The pin they are all connected to now was originally for the “Backup Power Supply” o Result: § Injector 1: Continuity (connector B48.15) § Injector 2: Continuity (connector B48.15) § Injector 3: Continuity (connector B48.15) § Injector 4: Continuity (connector B48.15) What I think may be the case: · Bad crank or cam sensor causing ECU not to pulse injector #1 and #2 · Faulty ECU Would anyone have any insight on this by any chance?? Any input would be greatly appreciated!
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Hello, I've bought a damaged Forester XT Premium 2015 and I'm starting the recovery process. While I'm waiting for the body parts I'm focusing in putting the engine to run. First I sent the car to an mechanic and he told me that the engine ecu is not responding, because his scanner wasn't able to connect to the vehicle to read any fault codes. After that I sent the vehicle to the Subaru dealership and they confirmed that the ecu is damaged and needs to be replaced. I think that diagnostic is weird, because the crash didn't affect much the engine or any electronic parts. Does anyone know about something that might be 'blocking' the access to the ecu, maybe due to the crash? Something like the air bag system blocking the engine or something? The dealership is asking me $2000 for a new ECU, while I found an used for around $600. Is it possible to just replace the original ECU by a similar from another car? Is there any kind of locks, keys, passwords or something that might block the communication between the ECUs? Regarding the ECU partnumbers, mine is: 22765AH011, while the used I found is 22765AH010. All the other parts I found in the stores are not equal, but similar partnumbers: 22765AG970, 22765AG973, 22765AH510. http://parts.subaru.com/ http://www.subarugenuineparts.com/ https://www.subarupartsdepot.com/oem-subaru-parts.html Are all these ECUs the same, but with different 'software versions'? Is it possible to know if they are compatible? All of them are for the same vehicle version: Forester XT Premium 2015. Thanks in advance for any enlightenment!! -
Hi! No Electrics other than door ding, baja wont start with new battery? Help? Any ideas? thx Bajababe
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I was working on my A/C system recently and I noticed this loose wire in my engine compartment. It ends in a metal loop and it's positioned near a screw hole in the engine compartment wall. (There are two views of the same spot in the image below - one with annotations and one without.) I can't imagine that normal driving would make a screw work itself all the way out. But I did have the clutch replaced a year ago and maybe the mechanic forgot to reconnect that wire when he put everything back together. But that would mean that I've been driving with the wire disconnected for the past year (without any noticeable problems). Questions: Is this a ground wire? Should I get a screw and (re-)connect the wire to that hole in the engine compartment wall? Part of me says that if it ain't broke, don't fix it. But part of me says that the ground wire probably serves a safety function and I'm risking an electrical short or a fire if I leave it disconnected. What do you think?
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Hi all, I've posted this on nasioc but gotten nothing so far, so I figured i'd post here. I am almost done replacing the engine in my 2000 legacy outback wagon after an engine failure (metal scraping noises!) I have everything back but the thing won't start I have been troubleshooting all week after work and all day last Saturday but still haven't fixed the problem. Here is the full story.... After not getting a start I started doing the basic checks. Fuel, check. Injectors firing, check. Good battery, check. Timing(just did it during install) check. Crankshaft sensor test and replaced, check. While checking the spark I found that it was non-existant and or weak and inconsistent so I tested and swapped in a spare coil pack I had from the donor engine...no change. I tried checking power to the coil, that was good and did NOT dip during crank. I checked coil pack signal, I got some pulses but I do not have a good enough oscilloscope to really see what I was getting(OC is from the 50s...) After this I started reading through the FSM religiously I found some info about the crankshaft sensor which I know drives the timing for spark, which might explain my spark issues. So I went through the troubleshooting steps for that sensor. The sensor checked out via a resistance check, but I replaced it anyway simply to rule it out. Next, the manual said to check the wiring by unplugging the sensor and checking resistance to ground. Pin 1 (left most pin) is supposed to read between 10ohm and 100K ohm. I tested it at 90K ohm...so a little bit high. Pin 2, supposed to be < 10ohm to ground. Tested, 1.5k ohm. So bang out of tolerance. For this the FSM says to "In this case, repair the following: I Open circuit in harness between crankshaft position sensor and ECM connector I Poor contact in ECM connector I Poor contact in coupling connector (B21)" Going off this I figured it was best to isolate parts of the wiring and test them individually. So I tested E10 to E2 AKA the connector to the sensor that then runs to the gray connector that is on the intake manifold wiring said. This circuit checked out A-OK with both wires showing 0-ohm resistance from both ends. Next, I check the other side so B21 to B135 AKA bulkhead side wiring to ECM wiring(middle connector). This also checked out a-ok. After this, I deduced that it must be the connectors, so I connected everything back together, and unplugged both ends, ECM and sensor side (B135 and E10). Then I tested resistance from end to end and across the wires to make sure there was not a short. Again, everything checked out a-ok. At this point I was beyond stumped, I seemingly had checked everything and it still wasn't working. As soon as I would plug the wire back into the ECM my test results would be bad. I began trying different ground test points, start, battery, intake manifold, ECU housing, intake manifold. All tested the same or within the margin of error. I even checked the same measurements on a 04 legacy outback I have and the readings I got off that working car for the sensor wire to ground measurements were well within spec. By now I am pretty convinced that it is a ground issue so I look up all the ground points on the ECU as defined by the FSM. The only one that did not test 0 ohm to ground was ground on pin 6 of B135 ECM connector(middle orange for me). I got a reading of about 320ohm to ground which, is not high, but I think higher than it should be. I chased this wire using the FSM to pin 16 on B22(big brown connector engine bay) I tested from ECM to B22 and got about the same reading again. Which when you think about it is actually interesting. Why between two points that are "supposed" to be directly connected is there the same resistance as there is to ground...that's weird! I started digging through the FSM again checking the wiring diagrams and finding all the places this wire connect. According to the FSM I have this wire connects to the, fuel gauge sub-module, neutral position switch, vehicle speed sensor, check connector, and data link connector. That is where I am now, I'm trying to identify all the places it runs and start testing parts of the circuit. But, I figured it was finally time to ask a question on a forum or two and see what you guys think. Am I missing something super obvious? Any tips for tracking this issue down? The weird thing about this is that the car ran before I pulled the engine and dropped in a new one. I started the process about 3 months ago, and have been slowly working on it till now. During the swap I made sure to keep my intake manifold, and crankshaft pulley. It was an auto to manual swap so there was actually quite a few parts to switch over...so maybe I missed something? ANY help would be truly appreciated, below is a link to the relevant sections FSM if anyone wants to take a look and double check my findings. I am reallllly stumped at this point. FSM: Look at engine sections for crankshaft sensor testing and Wiring diagram for plug locations and wiring diagrams. https://drive.google.com/folderview?...UE&usp=sharing P.S. Hopefully it didnt take you as long to read this as it did for me to write it! -
Hello all - 1996 Legacy L sedan with 218,000 miles and an IN-CAR head gasket job completed last month (oh my back! ). Car has been running through 2 tanks of gas with no problems. During mile 38 on 40 mile freeway drive at 2:30am, the electrical system on the car suddenly shut down and I coasted the car to a stop on the road shoulder. Hazard blinkers were functional, along with interior lights and power locks. High beams would turn on brightly, but since the headlights/parking lights are tied to the ignition, these were not operable. I could only conduct a few quick checks roadside: - bang on fuel pump - directly since I took the access plate in the trunk off. Done this routine before on several cars . - check tight battery connections - recently cleaned during head gasket replacement last month - this was fine. - timing belt intact - all fuses in engine bay and under dash continuity checked ok - starter cranked the engine, but the engine simply would not start Then the car got towed home the last 2 miles of my intended drive. Fortunately a flatbed tow truck showed up in 10 min via AAA and I was home only 30min after the mess. - I had to help the tow truck driver get into the shifter plate to manually override the shifter interlock so he could put the car in neutral. With the key-On position, the solenoid for the shifter interlock would not move......no elec power going to it. I have since conducted these tests: - battery voltage in good standing is 12.65V - alternator removed, tested and passed - ohmed out coil pack - pass. No burn throughs. - grounds confirmed good - removed and cleaned again anyway - checked all fuses and the main fusible link with ohm-meter - none blown - pulled and checked all engine connector harnesses (bell housing, MAF, igniter, ECM under the passenger floor). - checked continuity on all positions of the ignition switch - pass. Getting 12V to the backside of the switch by probing the solder points. - pulled and cleaned crank and cam position sensors - not much interesting there. Here's the fun part : - none of the warning lights on the dash will light in the Key-On position - this is what I find very disturbing. . - Starter/solenoid happily cranks the engine, but won't start. I have experienced bad start contacts before - this isn't the what is going on here) - cannot read ANY CEL codes because there is no power to the ECU when Key-On - fuel pump will not turn (can't hear a click from the pump relay anyway) - shifter interlock still not operable because of no power going to its solenoid - tied to ignition key-on. I could start changing out crank/cam position sensors, coolant temp sensor, MAF, etc.....but none of these single point items can easily explain why the entire power circuit is not operating. Even if the ECU died, I should still get direct power up to it. In looking at the wiring diagrams, I am thinking the ignition relay (the brown, really-hard-to-reach-one under the dash) might have conked out. This is the only way I can think of that I can still crank the starter, but hot have any electrical controls that drive the fuel pump, the warning lights, and the ECU. I'm going to attempt to get at the ignition relay today to pull and test it - that will take me all morning and lots of scrapes on arms. Any other suggestions are most welcome as I try to figure this out. -
Ok, slight annoyance. So, I hopped into the monster tonight, to go get some chocolate milk down at the AMPM. I was Craving it, don't ask me why. I get her cranked and turned the light switch and NUFFIN'. The lights marking the light and wiper switches were on, the lights for the heater/fans came up, headlights came up, but no instrument lights. The Left Turn Indicator light has been acting up, not coming on, that kind of thing. But, now, the blasted instrument lights are Kaput. Any ideas, before I start pulling things apart and cursing under my breath?
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So previously i had some headlight and blinker issues, and after taking 'grumpy car', as ive dubbed it, to a subaru dealer, they told me theres a short in the wiring harness and didnt fix anything. Yet somehow havent had blinker problems since. Anyways fastforward 3 months to now, my headlights completely stopped working, along with the horn, hazards (blinkers still functional), cooling fans and memory power for the dash clock. Did a fuse blow or a wire come loose or hopefully not some carestrophic short? From what ive seen any fuses i know of are still good, so im a little baffled -
So I got a new battery after I had my old one tested at Auto Zone and they said it was bad. New battery is good and worked fine, but after three days I went to start it and I got nothing that time. It can't be the starter cuz that is new too, I had it put in some months back and didn't even run the car that much, plus I had my brother tap it while I tried to start car and still nothing. Anybody got any idea? Could it be the alternator? -
1986 GL 1.8L 2 Door Hatchback - EA21 Car starts fine. When I turn the ignition switch to the 'Acc' position (Maybe 'on' it's dark out.) I'm hearing a steady clicking sound. I don't notice it when the engine is running, but the sound of the engine could mask it. I traced it for a bit and it seems to be coming from just behind center towards the rear of the vehicle, centered somewhere near the drive-line or so. Just curious as to what this could be, I'm assuming it's not supposed to be there, as the engine isn't even running (not to mention it's a clicking sound). I'm not even sure of anything electrical in that area. Are there relays under the rear seats somewhere? Thanks for any help, prior.
