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Showing results for tags 'electronics'.
Found 6 results
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Hello, I just bought a 2020 Crosstrek. I like the car but I can't stand the Start/Stop feature which turns the car off when you're stopped at a red light, and restarts when you take your foot off the brake. Does anyone know how to disable the feature? On earlier models I think it was a matter of taking out a fuse..... Thanks, Jeff in Boston
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Hello, I've bought a damaged Forester XT Premium 2015 and I'm starting the recovery process. While I'm waiting for the body parts I'm focusing in putting the engine to run. First I sent the car to an mechanic and he told me that the engine ecu is not responding, because his scanner wasn't able to connect to the vehicle to read any fault codes. After that I sent the vehicle to the Subaru dealership and they confirmed that the ecu is damaged and needs to be replaced. I think that diagnostic is weird, because the crash didn't affect much the engine or any electronic parts. Does anyone know about something that might be 'blocking' the access to the ecu, maybe due to the crash? Something like the air bag system blocking the engine or something? The dealership is asking me $2000 for a new ECU, while I found an used for around $600. Is it possible to just replace the original ECU by a similar from another car? Is there any kind of locks, keys, passwords or something that might block the communication between the ECUs? Regarding the ECU partnumbers, mine is: 22765AH011, while the used I found is 22765AH010. All the other parts I found in the stores are not equal, but similar partnumbers: 22765AG970, 22765AG973, 22765AH510. http://parts.subaru.com/ http://www.subarugenuineparts.com/ https://www.subarupartsdepot.com/oem-subaru-parts.html Are all these ECUs the same, but with different 'software versions'? Is it possible to know if they are compatible? All of them are for the same vehicle version: Forester XT Premium 2015. Thanks in advance for any enlightenment!! -
I'm hatching a plan. I think it's a Good plan. I'm pretty sure it'll save me money and a headache. I want to bypass my ignition switch. The reason is that it's very twitchy. It doesn't like turning if the key isn't in just the perfect spot, and you can remove the key without shutting down. She's a 1980 DL Wagon with an EJ22 swap, and there's already a switch installed to allow it to even start. The plan is to move that one to a very well hidden spot, turn the ignition key so that the wheel lock is disengaged, take the accessory wire and put it on a switch, and install a nice big friendly red button that just begs to be pushed. That way I'm not paying to have a New barrel put into the ignition, and I don't have to worry about the ignition failing. Just hop in, flip the two switches, push the button and roll. And few worries about someone stealing her, as the switch that even lets her crank is hidden. Any critiques, issues, suggestions, crazed ideas?
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So, since I lost my Job after Fourteen Years, due to political reasons, (and I am Not a political person), I've been helping more people to Fix their Cars' problems, not only old-school Subarus, and as the Newer models has OBD / OBD II systems, I am really in Need to obtain a Good Scan Tool for these cars, because I don't want to bother a friend who has one, each time I need to use it. So, which one is considered as the "Best Option" balanced between price and usefulness? Somehow I am some sort of "Newbie" with this scan tools ... ... so please share with me your Knowledge, any advice will be greatly appreciated. Kind Regards.
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So I recently took my car into the shop to have the fenders shaved and new fenders put on so I can fit wider tires. The car came back with the battery indicator light on. SO my best assumption is that a wire was cut during the shaving process. The car runs fine if it has jump leads connected to another car but once I remove the leads after about a minute later (when the juice runs out in the battery) the car shuts off. I assumed this was an alternator problem but after replacing that with a brand new one the issue was still occurring. So I replaced the battery, but the battery indicator light is still on so no/not enough power is getting from the alternator to the battery. Ive contacted the shop that did the work complaining that they must have down something but they are refusing to help. So what I thought about doing (as a temporary solution) was to run a large cable between the alternator and the battery. Is this be just a completely ridiculous idea that's going to short out my system or could this be a temporary solution. If it is a solution, should I put some kind of fuses between them or not? I am fairly uneducated when it comes to the electronics in a car so any help would be much appreciated. Thank you, Keon -
Has anyone on hear done any work with the Subaru key less entry systems? I bought a 98' Impreza awhile back and it came with a key fob, but didn't work.. put a new battery in the key fob still nothing, looked under the dash to make sure everything was hooked up, all checked out okay... Never messed around with any of these but would like to get it working again, so if anyone can point me in the right direction I would appreciate it!....another thing my 01 legacy had the same thing and when I locked the doors manually and shut it it would do the "beep" sound, My Impreza does not though...Don't know if that helps any....and It is a Subaru OEM dealer installed key less entry system
